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Camino Primitivo
  • Chad Estes
Jun 2024

Camino Primitivo

A 13-day Camino on the Primitivo route from Oviedo to Santiago de Compostela, Spain with my daughter Bonnie. Baca lagi
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  • Permulaan perjalanan
    15 Jun 2024
    Chad EstesCamino PrimitivoPengembara

    Day 1 - Oviedo to Grado

    15 Jun 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    After a couple of days of travel hiccups for Bonnie she arrived in Oviedo on a bus after midnight on the day we planned to start walking the Camino Primitivo. This was far different from what had been planned - her arriving in Oviedo via a fast train from Madrid a day before I arrived so she could get over any jetlag and be ready for our adventure. Though inconvenienced by the lost time and the lost luggage we got up this morning excited to start up and over the mountains.

    We walked first to the Oviedo Cathedral to find the first golden shell embedded in the pavement that would lead us out of the city. While looking for our bearings a gentleman approached us and asked us if we were starting our Camino. We told him we were. He inquired if we had collected a stamp from the church on the other side of the cathedral, which we hadn't. He asked if he could take us there as he was on his way to mass. He shared how he enjoyed this church, the priest, and the 8am Latin service. The church was beautiful and the stamp was meaningful, but what Bonnie and I really appreciated was this man's generous spirit.

    Oviedo is a big city and it took us a while to navigate to the outskirts, but once there we caught a glimpse of why this is known as the most beautiful of the Caminos. The views are already spectacular!

    Though there were tastes of the inclines that make this the most difficult of Caminos, today went very smoothly, most of it being taken up in conversation between the two of us. We also did a lot of talking to the animals we met along the way. 

    Surprisingly enough we didn't meet very many Pilgrims. We did have a late start out of Oviedo so they could have been in front of us. We met a man from Denmark at our second open cafe. It was his first Camino and he was taking in the scenery like he had a new set of glasses. We also met a couple from Miami as we were going up an incline. They told us, with heavy breathing, that they didn't have mountains back home to practice on.

    We found a cute little place for lunch. We walked a few meters off the path to Villa Palatina. There is an albergue, a bar and a restaurant at this little oasis. A young man greeted us at the gate and we asked him if we could get some lunch. He said he could check and went into the residence. Shortly after, the owner came out to talk to us.

    "Are we too late to get something to eat?" I inquired.

    "No," he laughed. "You are too early! Did you want the Menu del Dia?” (fixed menu of the day for the pilgrims.)

    "No," I responded. "We aren't that hungry, but we were hoping to get a bocadillo.” (sandwich.)

    "Ah, we have the best meat for a bocadillo. Do you know we have 68 and a half cows here?"

    "Is the other half of the cow in your kitchen?"

    "Yes!" he laughed while giving me a high five, "and I will put some on your bocadillos!"

    He interacted with us throughout our meal and treated us like kings. He even gave Bonnie his card as we were leaving and said if we needed anything between his home and Santiago to let him know. "Except for money... I don't have any of that!"

    We are in our room for the night. We showered, washed our clothes and found a cafe that would serve us an early dinner. We even got to watch the first half of the football match between Croatia and the Spanish national team. The plaza was buzzing with the locals cheering on their heroes. 

    We are heading to bed early tonight as tomorrow will be another epic day!

    Ultreia et Suseia!    Baca lagi

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  • Chad EstesCamino PrimitivoPengembara
    1

    Day 2 - Grado to Bodenaya

    16 Jun 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    I woke up to a "Bom Dia, Popi! Happy Father's Day!"

    Bonnie and I were both grateful for a long night of sleep due in part to us sleeping in a private studio. Balancing the nights staying alone and the nights in an albergue full of pilgrims is an important aspect of a Camino.

    Today was one of our longer days, with over 1400 meters in elevation gain, 800 meters in elevation loss, and 30 kilometers of distance. I've been nervous about this day ever since I planned this route. We basically are doing four stages in three days. Part of the reason for the long stage today is that we wanted to stay in the albergue in Bodenaya due to its reputation. This was the first private albergue on the Primitivo route and has been in existence for 17 years. The current owners are the third couple that have opened their home to pilgrims. It truly is like staying in a home with friends.

    The albergue is decorated from items donated from pilgrims that have stayed here. They host a communal dinner each night and the 10 pilgrims have to agree on a wake time for the following morning. Bonnie and I were given one of the two rooms which means no bunk beds for us tonight, which is a bonus.

    While long and difficult, today was beautiful. We loved our views, the animals, and our fellow pilgrims. A highlight was observing a shepherd giving orders to his dogs to move his flock of sheep. The large dog was there for protection while the Australian Sheperd guided the sheep to one side of the path so that we could pass by. It was fantastic to witness!

    We are getting to know some of the other pilgrims. We walked the last seven kilometers with Steen from Denmark. This is his first Camino and he has a tattoo of a turtle on his wrist so Bonnie and I showed him our turtle tattoos as well.

    An Australian named Gordon was walking in his worn down sandals (without socks) and that is all he hikes in.

    A Spanish couple played leapfrog with us all day long and are also staying with us in Bodenaya.

    The first pilgrim we met this morning told us he was from Greece. He took a photo of us once we got to the top of our first large incline. He told us his name but said it so fast I couldn't understand him. Then he spelled it. "Agapeosa."

    "Oh, Agape!" I responded with recognition of the Greek word.

    "Yes!" he said with a twinkle in his eye. "Do you know this?"

    Yes, I truly do.

    LOVE.

    Ultreia et Suseia!    Baca lagi

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  • Chad EstesCamino PrimitivoPengembara
    1111

    Day 3 - Bodenaya to Borres

    17 Jun 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Tonight's update will be short.

    We can't say enough about our time at Albergue Bodenaya with Allison and Alberto. Anyone who walks the Primitivo should have the experience of staying with them.

    We also can't say enough about the views on the Primitivo. Countless times today we paused to soak in the landscape. The pictures we are sharing just don't do it justice.

    We are staying in the last town on the route before making the decision to take the Hospitales route or the Pola de Allande route to Berducedo. The goal has been to do the Hospitales route as it is supposed to be the crown jewel of views on this Camino. Unfortunately it looks like we are getting rain tomorrow and we may not get any views.

    The route we are taking doesn't have any support, meaning there are no towns, cafes, bars or stops until we are at the end of the stage. We have to carry all the food, snacks and beverages for the whole day. We also will be carrying a wet load of laundry that we washed when we arrived today but as the rain started shortly after we didn't get them dried.

    We will get up early to tackle the day, rain or shine. We are on the Camino and that is an incredible privilege.

    Ultreia et Suseia!    Baca lagi

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  • Chad EstesCamino PrimitivoPengembara

    Day 4 - Borres to Berducedo (Hospitales)

    18 Jun 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    When we arrived at Albergue la Montera yesterday we were greeted by the owner Isabel and later her husband Ramiro. Their English was as good as our Spanish so our discussion with them included a good deal of charades.

    We wanted to know about the weather for the route we would take today. They wanted to know where we were from. Ramiro pulled up a map of the U.S. on his phone so that Bonnie could show him where Idaho was.

    I engaged Isabel regarding the forecast. We wanted to take the Hospitales route but had been warned not to if there were thunderstorms as there are no shelters if there is lightning. I mimed thunder and lightning which made her laugh. She looked up the weather report on her phone and it showed rain all day, but thunderstorms would start at 2pm.

    She mimed back that we could take the upper route or the lower route and either way we would get rained on. The lighting wouldn't start until 2pm so we would need to make sure we were done walking by then.

    When we went to pay for our beds, I was trying to pull out the right amount of Euros and Ramiro elbowed Isabel and said, "Americanos," and rubbed his thumb against his first two fingers like we were made of cash and that she should ask for more. All four of us laughed!

    Then we asked and mimed about where to eat. They shook their heads no.

    "No cafe?"

    "No."

    "No bar?"

    "No."

    Bonnie and I looked at each other.

    Ramiro and Isabel looked at each other.

    And then they began to laugh! They pointed us to the bar that would serve us a pilgrim's meal for dinner and also make a ham and cheese bocadillo to take for the next day's lunch since there are no stops on this 24 kilometer route.

    We had such fun with this couple!

    Bonnie and I have a traveling washing machine bag and detergent sheets as there is a daily need to wash our clothes. Unfortunately it was impossible to get them dry on the line outside because of the rain. We tried hanging them in our room (I have a miniature washing line in my "be prepared" bag) but there was not enough air flow in the room. The clothes were still damp this morning when we went to leave so we had to stuff them in a small bag to deal with later. Normally a pilgrim will pin their damp clothes to their backpack to let the sun finish drying them while they walk, but with the forecast we knew we had no chance of that.

    We set our alarm for 5:30 and were on the road by 6:00. We had hoped for a reprieve from the rain but our ponchos stayed on most of the day. I also ran into an issue early on as the bite valve on my hydration bladder was missing, which meant everytime I leaned over I was getting squirted with the Spanish version of Gatorade that I had filled my bladder with. Unfortunately I didn't pack a backup bite valve, so again, I'm not as prepared as I'd like to be.

    Today's hike was epic! It certainly isn't for the faint of heart as it took all we had to make it up and down over those mountains. And though it did rain on us today we still got spectacular views through the fog and the clouds. Many times I had to keep my phone put away because of the storm but we would stop to take in the view.

    People are told that the lower route is beautiful too, but I think they are told that so that they don't feel bad if they choose not to go over the Hospitales. Our Australian friend Gordon (who walks in sandals) caught up to us today and said that last year he had walked the lower route and even with the weather today there was no comparison. Bonnie and I are so glad we went this way.

    These mountains are full of livestock, but there are no fences. None of them seemed too bothered with us walking through their world.

    It took us a full eight hours to walk the 24 kilometers. We took a couple of breaks - one to eat protein bars for our breakfast, the second to have peanut butter M&Ms along with sour gummy worms (Bonnie was passing them out to other pilgrims going by us like she was a personal candy store), and the third time to eat our bocadillo lunch.

    Towards the end we were checking our phone apps because our legs and feet were sure that we had already walked 30 kilometers. We were very grateful to find our refugio at the end of our walk today. The owner also has a cafe/bar and made us our first coffees of the day. As soon as we finished them we ordered a second round.

    Our clothes from today are gross. Our damp clothes from yesterday are too. Thankfully our hospitalera would take care of them for us and add a small laundry fee to our bill. It will be well worth it.

    The Primitivo is a horse of a different color. This isn't like any of the four Camino routes I've completed. I feel so privileged to be here and to be walking with Bonnie. We both agreed that today was so, so hard, and oh so worth it!

    Ultreia et Suseia!    Baca lagi

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  • Chad EstesCamino PrimitivoPengembara

    Day 5 - Berducedo to Grandas de Salime

    19 Jun 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    After a great night's sleep Bonnie and I were ready to take on another day on the Primitivo. The place we stayed provided breakfast and we were thankful for the coffee, toast and orange juice to start the day. We agreed, we've never had better OJ than what they make here in Spain a cup at a time. We've also decided we have more energy for the walk when we eat breakfast first.

    We were surprised when we went outside this morning to find sunshine. The night before the forecast had been for rain all day. We had the gift of the first half of today without any precipitation.

    The views were spectacular both being above the clouds and then in them. We walked a while with Benjamina and Alba (a couple from Sweden and Spain, respectively) and I commented that it was nice to see our shadow again this morning as yesterday we didn't see much of it all. Alba responded that she and Benjamin could barely see each other yesterday, and we all laughed.

    It is interesting to interact with people from other countries about the politics in ours. Europeans seem to be very aware of what is going on in the American government. Sometimes we are asked questions. Sometimes pilgrims want to know who we will be voting for in the upcoming election. There is a lot of concern regarding the direction that American politics has swung and how it affects the rest of the world.

    We met a sweet girl from the Ukraine today. She talked a bit about the war in her country. Yesterday she was confronted with two Russian pilgrims and she didn't feel safe. She was walking longer today to try and get ahead of them and in a smaller albergue. She also told us that in discussing the war in Ukraine many people will try to dismiss the conflict to economics. In her view it is easier for people to stomach the war with that reasoning. It is also her view that the war exists because some people are simply evil.

    The realities of our world don't disappear on the Camino. Even when you'd like to you don't necessarily get a break from them.

    The walk today went up, and then as our Greek fried Agapeosa would say, "Down, down, downstairs." We had been told how unrelenting the decline would be that would lead us down to the reservoir, only only to then have to ascend back up to the town where we would be staying. We found the decline manageable, especially with the nice weather.

    We stopped at a restaurant just above the dam for lunch for our first actual break of the day. I took a photo of the dam, looking back in the direction we had come, from the back patio as we were getting ready to leave. By the time we exited the front entrance it had begun to rain. It was astonishing how fast the weather came over the mountain. Bonnie and I walked the remaining kilometers in pouring rain. It was such a difference from the first part of the day. We have no photos from the last third of the walk.
    Rain is also forecast for tomorrow. We are attempting to dry out our shoes for that longer walk. After that we are supposed to see sunshine again.

    It is our last night in Asturias as tomorrow we will cross over into the region of Galicia. We are going to eat more of the local delicacies tonight as tomorrow they will be different. This is such a marvelous adventure!

    Ultreia et Suseia!    Baca lagi

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  • Chad EstesCamino PrimitivoPengembara

    Day 6 - Grandas de Salime to Fonsagrada

    20–25 Jun 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Growing up I was often told by adults that I wore my emotions on my sleeve. Bonnie says she often hears, "Well you don't have to guess how Bonnie is thinking,” even when she hasn't said anything yet.

    We are cut from the same cloth.

    The elements around our walk today provided us a good opportunity to discuss this together. I woke up disgruntled with the weather, my feelings blue and already on the sleeves of my Mountain HardWear shirt still damp from yesterday's rain.

    Our ponchos stayed on the entire stage as we walked under, through and in the rain. The trail was mostly a stream or path of mud. Bonnie and I kept our heads down attempting to find the most stable steps over and over again.

    Not much was said the first half of our day. Besides being so wet it was mostly all incline and we were working hard. We would check in on each other making sure we were both okay. After a while we found that we were both up for today’s challenge; in fact we felt energized despite our circumstances. While we couldn't really see the views, though we couldn't take many photos, though our shoes were soaked and our bodies were wet and cold, we were still excited to be on the Camino and to be together.

    We said it over and over today - Ultreia - Lets go further. Let's keep going. Let's keep moving.

    We crossed over Alto del Acebo that separates the regions of Asturias and Galicia. Asturias challenged us and rode us hard. It did not find us lacking in spirit or in stamina. It did challenge me emotionally.

    Both of us find those comments that were/are made about us to be subtle digs to let us know that people aren't comfortable when we are emotional. Trust me, I get it. I am the one with the emotions and I'm not comfortable. It is kind of the point. And while I'm sure there are measured, reasoned and grown up ways to deal with disappointments, what it feels like is that we are being told we are too much.

    But we aren't. In fact our emotions are part of our super powers. It's why I can enter into some hard and dark situations. It's why Bonnie is so strong and such an anchor.

    We used our superpowers today to get us through a dark stage. It helped guide our choices. It helped us thrive.

    Sometimes we just need a little time.

    My high school teacher, Mrs Chaney, was a guide and a friend to me. One time, in a discussion we had after I graduated she shared with me that she always had faith that I would get where I needed to be, that I just needed to feel supported and given time. At first her feedback stung, like I had to be coddled, but she was right.

    Bonnie and I walked through a storm today and discussed what it feels like when life is stormy. We both felt understood today. We both arrived.

    We were happy to get to Fonsagrada. We checked into our accommodations for the night and were grateful for the hot shower and dry clothes. Our next stop was at a lavanderia so we could do 

    a load of laundry. Now our traveling wardrobe is also clean and dry. Next order of business was to find an open cafe/bar and have a hot cup of coffee. When we asked our waiter where we could find a newspaper he gave us yesterday's edition so that we could roll it up and stuff it in our shoes to hopefully absorb the moisture. We found our favorite snacks at the grocery store. 

    The sun is now shining. We are in Galicia. We are together and we are moving forward. One step at a time. And we are moving upward, which means we are growing.

    Ultreia et Suseia!    Baca lagi

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  • Chad EstesCamino PrimitivoPengembara

    Day 7 - Fonsagrado to O Cadavo

    21 Jun 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    What a difference a day makes!

    This morning's hours were overcast and filled with fog but there was no precipitation today! Whenever we passed or were passed by other pilgrims there was more conversation and it always included talk about yesterday's weather. Some told us how depressed they were or shared the hardships of walking in the rain the past few days.

    By the time we had walked about three hours the sun came out and Bonnie and I warmly greeted our shadows. 

    When we came upon the first of two open cafes we would find today and there was a party of pilgrims happening. We were all congregating outside with our coffees and snacks, singing, laughing, and cheering for each other. People were intoxicated by the sunshine and it was glorious!

    Today there were two pretty tough inclines in the second half of the day. We didn't talk much but I can't tell you how much Bonnie's presence means to me. Not everyone who is doing the Camino together walks together, but Bonnie and I are experiencing the Primitivo together step by step.

    Just a few random thoughts from our walk and then I'm signing off. Though tomorrow is a flatter stage it is over 30 kilometers and our bodies are really telling us that we've been doing this for a week straight now.

    This morning we were talking with a man from Italia (Side note: Why do we call it Italy, when that isn't what they call their country? And why do we say Spain, when they call it Espania?). I asked him if he had watched the futbol game last night between his country and Espania. He talked for five minutes straight in Italian. However he was so expressive with his expressions and his hand gestures that we knew how upset he was and exactly why.

    We met a Canadian couple from Ontario. We told them we were from Idaho. We both said that the other came from beautiful places. After a pause the woman said, "Then why are we doing this?" It was very funny, but it also rang true to me. There are a lot of beautiful places in the world but they aren't this. If you are called to walk the Camino you won't find satisfaction doing anything less.

    We have decided upon a few new guidelines that we would like to propose to the Powers That Be regarding pilgrims who do the Camino on electric bicycles. 1) If you do not have a bell or ring a bell to let other pilgrims know you are bearing down on them you will be fitted with a cowbell that cannot be removed until you reach Santiago. 2) The added indulgence of using an electric-aided bicycle does not prevent you from earning  a compostela at the end, however, the penance for doing so is that you must slow down when passing each walking pilgrim for them to cane you on the back with their poles as you go by.

    Last night we ate local delicacies for dinner - octopus and mussels, and cod with thinly sliced potatoes covered with melted Tetilla cheese. They were both decadent. Tonight we were happy to find a couple of pizzas to share. Tomorrow we will be in a larger city and are planning to dine at an Indian restaurant.

    Several days ago Bonnie asked a pilgrim about a tattoo on his arm. He told us he got it for his son who had died. It was all he shared at the time, but Bonnie and I felt we wanted to follow up with him. He accepted our invitation to dinner and to share about his son. It is one of the main reasons that he is on this Camino. He processed with us tonight and it was good. It was really, really good.

    Ultreia et Suseia!    Baca lagi

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  • Chad EstesCamino PrimitivoPengembara

    Day 8 - O Cadavo to Lugo

    22 Jun 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    Today was our longest day on the Primitivo. We prepared ourselves well as we have done these distances together on the Portuguese Camino. We had breakfast before we left and brought extra snacks and drinks as there was potentially only one open bar/cafe on this long stage.

    It was another misty morning and primarily overcast day. It made for hauntingly beautiful forest paths.

    The real miracle of the day is that we only encountered four other pilgrims during our walk. Even though we took several rest breaks, only one couple caught up to us at the cafe. They were from the Netherlands and like my friend Mart, they had walked out their front door on their way to Santiago.

    The only couple we caught up to was two Polish women that we've crossed paths with since the day we walked down to the dam.

    Other than that the Camino was ours today. Everyone else had either left before us or were behind us. While making and having good friends on a Camino is meaningful, sometimes the gift of quiet solitude is very welcome. In two days this route merges with the Frances route. Bonnie and I joked that we won't see four pilgrims a day, but maybe four new pilgrims every four minutes.

    I surprised Bonnie as we were leaving the small town with the cafe. We had departed the path to get to the cafe and she thought we were just heading back to it. However I ducked into an alley between two industrial buildings and knocked on an unmarked door. Bonnie was asking me what in the world I was doing when a woman opened the door and I inquired if this was the empanada bakery. She nodded yes and ushered us just inside the door. This bakery doesn't have a retail front. I think they just make and bake the empanadas at this location and they are sold elsewhere. I had read about them online and took a chance that they would sell us a fresh empanada for our lunch as there were no open stores for the next 20 kilometers. They put up with us invading their bakery and we left with a bacon and apple empanada secured in my lunch bag on the back of my backpack. We paid them well with Euros and pilgrim's genuine gratitude.

    We did find one more special spot today on our walk. A Spanish couple had set up an oasis next to the path about 13 kilometers out of Lugo. They had melons, bananas, coffee, water and chairs - all on a donation basis. There are some people who have figured out how to capitalize on the Camino with money making opportunities. There are other people, usually people who have been pilgrims themselves, that give back to the Camino and serve those walking now. David and his wife are two of those people and Bonnie and I were grateful to receive from them as well as donate to their oasis as we left.

    We arrived in Lugo having taken more steps than any other day but we weren't finished with our walk. This is a historic city with a Roman wall that surrounds the inner city. After dropping off our backpacks in our rooms and changing into our sandals we visited the cathedral for a stamp in our credential and then took the ramp up to the wall to walk the two kilometer archaeological masterpiece that was built in the 3rd and 4th century. It really is spectacular!

    Our day wasn't complete until we rewarded our stomachs once again with a meal that was superb. The Royal Tandoori Indian Restaurant lived up to its billing and we are now heading to bed with happy bellies, full hearts and grateful spirits.

    Ultreia et Suseia!    Baca lagi

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  • Chad EstesCamino PrimitivoPengembara

    Day 9 - Lugo to Or Burgo de Negral

    23 Jun 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    I wouldn't call today quite a rest day, but when you sandwich a 22 kilometer day in between two 30 km days, it feels closer to a day off (though my feet would still argue).

    Lugo would have been a great day to take an extra day to explore. There are several museums and tours that would have been nice to have visited. We packed as much as we could into the time that we had.

    On our way to dinner we passed by a store with hiking poles in the window. We hoped they might carry water bladders. While they didn't have one on display, an employee went into their storage and found one for me! It was just 14 Euros and it will be perfect for getting me to Santiago. I was getting tired of having to fill my Osprey bladder half full since I had lost the bite valve.

    Today's hike was much different from yesterday. We had a slower start since we didn't have as far to go and found a nice cafe to get some caffeine and pastries. On our way back to our room to grab our backpacks we started seeing other pilgrims, some whom we hadn't seen the past eight days. This can happen when people walk at different times or walk different length stages.

    There are also new pilgrims starting from Lugo on their way to Santiago. In order to qualify for a compostela you must walk at least 100 kms. That is what some people are doing the pilgrimage for. Trust me, if you are only going for the piece of paper with your name in Latin on it, you don't want to start in Oviedo! People starting farther back are walking for more than the compostela.

    We did laugh to ourselves today as we could tell who some of the new pilgrims were on the road. Their clothes and shoes look new. They are still messing with the straps on their packs. Their excitement is genuine though and it is fun to meet these new people and know we are all heading in the same direction.

    We had earmarked a restaurant for lunch today. When Bonnie and I walked into it there were two dining rooms full of tables set for the Sunday dinner. However, the hostess told us that they were 'complete,' that they were full. The locals are smart! They reserve their tables on Sundays knowing that hordes of hungry pilgrims will be heading through their community. The restaurant still served us drinks outside and we watched the Spanish families show up for their meal. It was heartwarming to see them and their tradition. We didn't have to walk much further to find albergues that had lunch and availability for us.

    Three stages are left after today. Bonnie and I are discussing what we want to bring home with us - not in terms of souvenirs - but the things we learned about ourselves during this Camino that we can transfer into growth in our lives after pilgrimage. We're having these conversations with some other pilgrims too. 

    We had quite a bit of road walking today, but thankfully it was through the country. We had more tractors and farm equipment pass us than cars.

    I love the smell of the trees (especially the eucalyptus), the dirt, the farms, the gardens, the livestock. Can't say I really enjoy the manure aroma but it lets you know you are present in a place full of life.

    I touched a lot of trees today. Some I am convinced were Ents and would have talked to us if we had slowed our pace and sat down next to them for a time. Since we are moving forward all I could do was thank them as I passed through their presence.

    Ultreia et Suseia!    Baca lagi

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  • Chad EstesCamino PrimitivoPengembara

    Day 10 - Or Burgo de Negral to Boente

    24 Jun 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Today is a holiday in Spain - the Nativity of John the Baptist. This means that many of the businesses that you would expect to be open on a Monday are instead "cerrado."

    Looking ahead at our route Bonnie and I would have 25 kilometers of small, agricultural towns to travel through. We weren't convinced that anything would be open. We decided to leave a little later so that we could eat breakfast at the albergue's cafe when they opened at 7:30. It was to our benefit as they served us fried eggs, bacon and toast along with our cafe con leches.

    Two hours later we found a cafe that was open and we were able to have a nice rest along with more caffeine. As we were leaving she was closing up shop for the holiday. We had just squeaked in. A couple hours later we did stop at a closed cafe to take advantage of their outside chairs for a needed break.

    Just outside of Melide, where the Primitivo route merges with the Frances Camino we caught up with our Danish friend Steen, who was finishing his walk for the day. He said he would join us for lunch and then Bonnie and I had another 5K to travel to get to our albergue.

    Having passed through Melide last year I remembered a restaurant where I had eaten lunch. While this city is known for its pulpo (octopus) I wasn't ready for a heavy meal while we still had walking to go. The guy at this bar had made me a sandwich last year that was memorable and when I found the same spot the three of us ordered the same bocadillo. It was a perfect meal made even more special having it with Steen who we didn't expect to see until we arrive to Santiago as we are now walking different stages. We also had fun watching the pilgrims from the Frances root passed by.

    Most of the pilgrims we are staying with tonight are also ones that walked the Primitivo. There was lots of processing this afternoon about what we all have accomplished together since leaving Oviedo. Everyone is in agreement that it was much harder than expected, more beautiful than other routes, and that the biggest difficulty had been our stages with the rain. To a person everyone we interacted with wants to come back to the Camino. Most want to bring friends or family members.

    Bonnie and I also had some good discussions today about how this journey was different from the one we did two years ago with Jamie and Kona. We are in different places physically, emotionally and spiritually, so we can't really compare them equally. What I will say is that the first one sparked something in me that is still on fire.

    My first Camino showed me some important realities of how I interact with others. Last summer's solo trip showed me how I interact with myself. This year I've taken what I learned in both of those journeys and been more compassionate with myself and others. I'm very privileged to have had this time and this opportunity. It has been an investment that I am reaping benefits from. I don't think I am done walking Caminos and I know I am not done growing.

    Two stages are left for Bonnie and me. Tomorrow is another long day but we are expecting to get an early start as we are sleeping in a crowded house and there is sure to be loud and early risers tomorrow. We are okay with starting early. We've decided not to wait for breakfast here, which again isn't served until 7:30, but there will be an open cafe 9K's down the road that will certainly be getting our business.

    Ultreia et Suseia!    Baca lagi

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  • Chad EstesCamino PrimitivoPengembara

    Day 11 - Boente to O Pedrouzo

    25 Jun 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Sleeping in a large albergue is certainly one of the memorable experiences on a camino. There are snorers, teeth grinders, frequent pottiers, farters, window shutters, bunk bed shakers, early risers, and bag rattlers - and those are probably just your family and friends! Last night wasn't the most comfortable time of sleep for either Bonnie or me. We were definitely ready to hit the road early this morning, and so were most of the Primitivo crew we have been traveling with.

    Yesterday was our warmest day on the Camino and several pilgrims were sporting sun burns. Today was more overcast and perfect for our last, long stage.

    Our bodies and feet are tired. We took more rest stops today than we typically have. There were a lot of cafes and restaurants on this stage and at almost each one we recognized someone to say hello and goodbye too. There were fewer pictures of scenery today and more photos of each other. As you continue to walk, you realize that the greatest gift of the Camino is connection with other people. 

    There is a measure of aggravation with the amount of pilgrims on the trail. Of course those from the Primitivo route aren't used to seeing this many people. For those who have been walking the Frances for at least a few weeks have had since Sarria to get used to the 100 KMers (the majority that I met today were Americans).

    My method of dealing with the change is to get chatty. It is harder for me to be upset with someone when I hear their story. I was a social butterfly today, asking people where they were from, how they were doing, and starting conversations. It kept me in good spirits even though it took more energy. We all agree, some people have very valid reasons to be walking lesser distances, shorter times, and lighter baggage. I will enjoy seeing them make it to their finish line in Santiago tomorrow! 

    Bonnie and I found a Mexican restaurant this evening. It is owned and runned by a family that moved here from Mexico City because they thought the pilgrims would enjoy their food. Boy, were they right! The place was packed and the meal was wonderful.

    One more load of laundry, one more sleep, one more stage before Santiago. Bonnie and I are ready and excited for the end of this Camino. We will share more once we arrive.

    Ultreia et Suseia!    Baca lagi

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  • Chad EstesCamino PrimitivoPengembara

    Day 12 - O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compo

    26 Jun 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Today was truly a day of Camino magic!

    Before I get to that story I'll fill in some other meaningful details - Bonnie and I finished our Primitivo Camino today around noon! We enjoyed our morning walk through the woods and got excited as we neared the outskirts of the city. We took some celebratory pictures when we reached Praza do Obradoiro, the plaza outside the cathedral. It was a different feeling for me this time, even from my entrance two weeks ago from the coastal. This time I felt a real sense of accomplishment for what Bonnie and I pulled off over the last 12 days. I also felt a mix of connection, gratitude, pride and awe of getting to have this adventure with Bonnie.

    We celebrated with food all day - non-alcoholic beers, a plate full of "rabid tiger mussels," a basket of churros with a cup of molten dark chocolate for dunking, and fantastic Japanese ramen bowls for dinner.

    Santiago is a big city but we kept running into friends throughout the day, stopping for conversations, congratulations, and promises for more connections. By chance we ran into my Instagram friend Monica, who just finished her second long Camino carrying her mother's ashes. I followed her story online and met up with her when we were both in Santiago two weeks ago. While Bonnie and I walked the Primitivo she went to Fisterra, Muxia and back to Santiago. She has a wicked-smart sense of humor and her updates kept Bonnie and I laughing. We had fun visiting with her in person again today.

    But the real magic started about half-way through our walk today. Bonnie and I had just climbed up a long incline and stopped to look at a monument. The woman who had been standing next to it started talking with us. "Are you the father and daughter team that has been walking from Sarria?"

    "No, we are just finishing the Primitivo."

    We exchanged the regular Camino pleasantries, which included that this wasn't our first rodeo and that Bonnie and I had walked the Portuguese Camino from Lisbon with Jamie and Kona two summers ago.

    "Wait. Were you interviewed on a podcast? On Nancy's podcast?

    Nancy Reynolds has created a very helpful podcast, especially designed for those preparing for their first Camino. She interviewed me before I walked the Frances route solo last year and recorded a follow up interview when I finished. We have become Camino family and stay in touch regularly. I couldn't believe that this woman had recognized me from what little Bonnie and I had shared, and possibly my voice, and connected it to what she had heard online.

    "Yes!" I responded.

    "She interviewed me too!"

    And then I got chills because I realized who she was. This woman walks with a little hitch in her giddyup. Back in April Nancy had interviewed a woman named Nysie who has multiple sclerosis. She was diagnosed 10 years ago and had put aside a dream to walk the Camino. This year she decided to do it regardless of the additional challenges of her physical condition. On the podcast episode she shared she would be walking from Le Puy, France before joining the Frances route and would be walking for about three months.

    I was walking the Greenbelt beside the Boise River when I heard her share her inspiring story. I messaged Nancy later that day, "I was very impressed with Nysie and her huge plans despite her physical limitations. Do you have a rough idea of her schedule? I'm wondering if I will be finishing around the time she is."

    My heart was in my throat as I realized that what I had written to Nancy three months ago had just magically happened! We randomly found each other on the Camino having walked different routes, different dates, and different speeds.

    Bonnie and I slowed our pace and we talked with Nysie for the next half hour. We came upon a cafe so we had a second breakfast together, getting to hear each other's stories, but this time face to face. I read her what I had messaged Nancy and we all teared up.

    Bonnie and I then made our way to Santiago, amazed at what had just taken place. We finished our walk, got our compostelas, ate, checked into our hotel, did some shopping and then messaged Nysie to see how she was faring. What took the two of us five hours to walk today, including our breaks, took Nysie ten.

    So we waited for her! We filmed her last steps down the stairs, past the bagpiper, and into the plaza. She had added me earlier in the day to her follower's group page so I was able to share her victory with her family and friends seconds after it happened. We then located another cafe in the shadow of the cathedral and celebrated together.

    It was the perfect ending to a very special Camino!

    Tonight Bonnie and I will rest in a quiet hotel and sleep in way past the sunrise! We will eat breakfast without our backpacks next to us! We will order a second cup of coffee in the same cafe 20 minutes apart instead of the cafe's 8-10 kilometers and two hours apart! We will meet up with more friends who finish tomorrow and probably eat more rabid tiger mussels!

    We will start from home on Friday - Bonnie via Madrid, and me back through Porto. We will say goodbye for now to Spain and the Camino, but our pilgrimage is far from over. It begins anew each day. It is in our present moments. It is marked in our weary bodies and our bubbling spirits from the distances we have traveled and the span that we have grown.

    Ultreia et Suseia!    Baca lagi

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    Tamat perjalanan
    27 Jun 2024
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