Day 4: Tineo to Colinas de Arriba

Distance: 23km (14miles)
Elevation gain: 2,500ft
Emotions: weary, clean, exhilarated, content

I’m sitting in the bar of my albergue, sipping a beer and watching the rain fall outside. I’ve just had a hot shower and changed into clean, freshly washed clothes. Bliss!

Today was a slower day, relaxing into a more sociable pace and talking with those I met on my journey. Most of my time, I walked with Jerry, an inspiring 79 year old Canadian who escaped communism in Czechoslovakia in the 50’s. He was really wonderful to speak to and provided a fantastic new perspective to life and the importance of living it as well as possible.

I also reunited with Maria from Holland, who’s staying in the same albergue again tonight. We’d had quite the evening yesterday, laughing and getting tipsy on Asturian cider with Neil and Pavel, then sprinting back to our rooms through the rain. It was lighthearted and full of joy, the kind of night that feels timeless.

Today was harder than I was anticipating… not because of the hangover, but because my muscles started to protest. Things started off beautifully, the sun shining over gorgeous views, but by afternoon, my butt muscles were protesting with every step… of all the things!!

I also had my first day in Camino rain! It’s actually quite fun as you hide inside your giant poncho! I also passed the sign for the Hospitales (mountain) route today, where the trail splits into two. It was a big moment for me on the journey, and was quite emotional! I am staying in an Albergue close to where the route splits and, if the weather holds, I’ll take on the monumental climb into the mountains tomorrow morning. It’s one of the toughest sections, but I’m ready to try.

For now, I’m going to enjoy this beer and rest before dinner. Despite the late start and slower pace, I was the first to arrive today. Funny how the Camino works like that.Read more