Day 11: Melide to Arzua

Distance: 14km (8.5miles) - extra 40 km by bus
Elevation: 1,350ft
Emotions: warm, sleepy, ok

Today was a big test for my knees and I’m relieved to say, I passed. It’s still painful, especially on the descents, but I think I’ll be able to walk all the way to Santiago from here. I’ve mapped out two more days of about 14 km each, followed by a final 10 km day to walk into the city, hopefully alongside the Primitivo group.

This part of the Camino feels so different now. The Primitivo has merged with several other routes coming in from the east, and suddenly the path is busy with stalls, trinket shops, and even Camino volunteers in high-vis jackets guiding the way. After the quiet solitude of the Primitivo, it’s been a bit of a jolt, but it’s still part of the journey, and no less meaningful for it.

I’m walking alone again after jumping ahead to Melide (though Luca, Giorgio, Alessandro, and Pavel aren’t far behind). Despite the crowds, I’ve found a sense of calm solitude. Once you leave the bigger towns behind, the noise falls away and you’re left with the gentle sounds of birds and streams. Today, I tucked in my headphones and walked with Einaudi’s music as my companion, tuning out the world around me and sinking into the rhythm of the trail.

During today’s walk, I stopped at a small church to rest. It was wonderfully peaceful, offering a quiet pocket of reflection away from the crowds and the heat of the afternoon. Just sitting there, surrounded by cool stone walls and silence, felt like a gift in the middle of the journey.

I feel buoyant at the thought of walking the final 40 km into Santiago. It’ll be slow, but I’ll get there.

There’s probably more I should say, but for now, I’m going to rest. Maybe I’ll write again later.

—-

So I treated myself to a little solo date at a swanky restaurant, indulging in steak, red wine, tiramisu, and coffee. It cost a bit more than the usual €13 pilgrim menu, but it was the perfect way to end the day. I feel thoroughly spoiled and honestly, I wouldn’t have it any other way.

Tonight I am tucked up in a little bunk pod with a window all to myself. Opposite me is Erin, a Canadian who has been running the Camino Francés from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (780km). She began on 27 March and will run the remaining 40km in to Santiago tomorrow, exactly a month after she started on 27 April. She’s very inspiring and quite the athlete. She’s also really lovely and very chatty.

Buen Camino!Читать далее