Day 15: Santiago rest day

What a day! I’m drunk, happy, and feel utterly complete.

I had grand intentions of spending the day in a good, touristic Catholic sort of way. But I missed not one, but two Masses because I was drinking. And honestly? I wouldn’t have changed a thing.

The day began quietly with coffee, fresh orange juice, and toast in a little café nearby. I sat with my book, watching the world go by. A perfect, gentle start to the day, and exactly how I hope to begin tomorrow.

Once caffeinated, I met Neil to visit the cathedral and hug St James. The experience stirred a mix of emotions, so many contradictions and thoughts about faith, religion, and tradition. Still, it was powerful and moving in its own way.

Afterwards, Neil and I stopped for lunch and a beer at a local café, where we were soon joined by Lars, Marie, and Pavel, who, to our surprise, turned out to be a judge. We sat for hours, drinking beer, chatting, and watching pilgrims arrive in Santiago. It felt like the sweetest way to pause. Dolce finiete. I’d planned to attend the midday Mass, but lost track of time in conversation.

Back at the albergue, I took some time to dry my clothes and rest before the evening. That’s when I met Laura from Germany. We shared some laughs, exchanged numbers, and made vague plans to meet up later. As the rain started falling, I headed down to the conservatory, the perfect cosy spot to listen to the rain. There I met Elouan from France and Dora from Croatia. Elouan had walked the Camino del Norte and, coincidentally, had met Lars along the way. They were due to meet that evening, so we all decided to head out together.

We drank beer, shared tapas, and talked about everything, learning about each other and our stories and lessons from the Camino. Later, Laura also joined us and suggested a nearby bar with live music. After a very merry and very drunk Lars stumbled home, the rest of us made our way there and were greeted by the sounds of Galician musicians and dancers turning a tiny bar into a joyful farewell to Spain.

Now I’m in bed, a little tipsy and mildly concerned about how I’ll feel tomorrow. But honestly? It was worth every moment.En savoir plus