Alligator Alley

enero 2023
Una aventura de 14 días de Cruising Leer más
  • 14huellas
  • 2países
  • 14días
  • 204fotos
  • 4videos
  • 27,3kkilómetros
  • 25,9kkilómetros
  • Día 11

    I see skies of blue

    17 de enero de 2023, Estados Unidos ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I persuaded Phil to have breakfast at Café Beignet this morning, which turned out to be a big mistake. I took one bite of the pastry, and that was it. It tasted off to me ... a completely different animal to the Morning Call beignets. I also tried the grits for the first time ... not something I need to repeat. So breakfast was a bit of a washout, though the café decorations were pretty cool.

    We walked on down Canal Street to the Riverwalk Outlet stores. There were some really nice things to spend money on, but most were outside our price range. The best bargains were at Kate Spade - saw a handbag for $89, and others for 70% off - skechers and Le Creuset - both with 50% discount.

    We walked along the Riverwalk to Jackson Square, listening to some of the street artists singing and playing their music. I particularly liked the guy playing the keyboard and singing "My Blue Heaven," though the guy with the dog on the back of the truck was belting out a pretty good blues medley ... accompanied by melodic barks 🤣

    After some crabcakes for lunch, we headed up Dumaine Street to Louis Armstrong Park. It's so good to see he's memorialized in his home city, with both the airport and the park named in his honour. It was very serene, pretty and quiet there, with just a few people relaxing in the shade under the trees or snapping a few photos of his statue.

    We dined this evening on the Paddleboat "City of New Orleans," catching up with Craig and Kiki for the last time in New Orleans. Yakking away over dinner while we paddled up and down the Mississippi, and listening to the "Dukes of Dixieland" jazz band serenading us, was a nice way to round off our experience. Eventually, we ventured outdoors. It was a warm and clear night, though I noticed tendrils of mist hugging the water's edge. Everyone was out on the open deck, taking photos, watching the skyline, and enjoying the night.

    And that ole man river? He just keeps rollin' along.
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  • Día 12

    Havin' big fun on the bayou

    18 de enero de 2023, Estados Unidos ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    And what fun we had - alligators at every turn, in the water, on the fallen tree trunks and eating marshmallows out of Brandon's hand (well he did throw them into the alligator's jaws, but only after tapping him on the back to let him know there was some food). Apparently, alligators aren't able to digest food when it's cold in winter (due to brumation), so Brandon feeds them marshmallows, which they can spit out without ruining their digestive system.

    The raccoons, on the other hand, LOVE marshmallows, and they stop being nocturnal just to get their fill of the sweet treat. Any crumbs, leftover apple, or corn they leave behind, the pigs clean up ... or the introduced pest, the nutria, which is as destructive in Louisiana as the opossum in NZ.

    It was so beautiful in the swamp (the flooded forest), but major damage from Cyclone Ida was still obvious - many snapped trunks, exposed roots from toppled trees, and sodden logs on the edges of the bayou. I would have liked to have seen it before Ida, when the trees touched overhead to make tunnels.

    Earlier in the day, we visited Oak Alley, one of the best preserved of several plantation properties still standing in the region. The house wasn't half as grand as Longwood, but the location was idyllic with the avenue of oaks leading from the house to the Mississippi River. The guide's narration focused on the owners of the property, though there was acknowledgment of the work done by the slaves, and an exhibit built to simulate their living conditions. It looked and felt sanitized though - I guess the other side of the story is a different tour.

    We followed the dining advice of the tour guide, Charlie, and ate at Mr Ed's. Great choice. I liked the oysters EVEN MORE than Dragos' oysters. The ones we chose were charbroiled with garlic, butter, parmesan, and served with French bread, lemon & herbs. Our friend from the tour (who also followed Charlie's advice), offered us a taste of his fried alligator. It was very delicious and I think I like it better than chicken. It was tender and still juicy. To get my vege ration, I finished off with fried green tomatoes.

    What a day. Son of a gun, we had big fun on the bayou!
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  • Día 13

    The wind in the [palm tree] played ...

    19 de enero de 2023, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Sitting in the middle of Bourbon Street in the Musical Legends Park with a cold lemonade listening to a jazz band playing New Orleans blues, I'm in my happy place. The slide trombone player was a hard case and enjoyed a bit of banter with the punters. He was also very talented and could play the mouth organ, the aforementioned trombone, and had a very nice singing voice. We listened for almost an hour but felt that we needed to move on when I ran out of lemonade. I did try to make it last as long as possible.
    Phil chose the breakfast venue this morning. We criss-crossed the French Quarter somehow managing to miss all the cafés we'd seen when we weren't looking for them. He did look twice at Brennan's menu, but Eggs Hussard at $26 or Turtle soup didn't really tempt us.
    Eventually, we stumbled across Curios (which was about 20m from our hotel!) and liked the look of their selection. Once inside, we were a little disconcerted to find there were no other customers ... usually a bad sign.
    However, Phil's Eggs Pontchartrain were spectacular. They were a very upmarket kind of Eggs Benedict ... crabcakes, topped with eggs covered in hollandaise sauce, on top of sautéed spinach toast and a side of breakfast wedge potatoes. My French toast with bacon was very plain in comparison, though Phil did share some crabcake with me.
    We ticked one last thing off Phil's list, which was walking the length of Bourbon St. The top end wasn't that interesting as it became residential, and the bottom end is all geared up for partying tourists. All the bars were open when we ambled past around 10 in the morning, and in New Orleans, you can have alcoholic drinks to go.
    Early every morning, the cleaning crews are out with high-pressure hoses, disinfectant, rubbish trucks, and brooms. They clean up all the rubbish, excrement, urine, and spew from the night before. We've been told that it's the tourists who flock there, not the locals - except the ones who like to take advantage of drunken, inattentive out-of-towners.
    Ben, you could move here if you're looking for more work! Almost every premise has a broken window (some looking suspiciously like bullet holes), not to mention the Uber driver's and Grayline bus's multi-cracked windshields. Doubt you could keep up!
    We've learned to avoid the street after dark, but it's innocuous and very pretty by day.
    Had to go back to Mr Ed's tonight for more oysters ... not quite as good as last night, but still delicious. And we tried the Louisiana Crawfish bread, the BBQ Shrimps, and the banana cream pie. All highly recommended, particularly the crawfish bread.
    Our last night ended in New Orleans as our first night began - with a colourful, noisy, joyful carnival street parade.
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  • Día 16

    Make my bed and light the light

    22 de enero de 2023, Nueva Zelanda ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Our taxi driver was a really cool dude, and when we got chatting and I mentioned Fats (Antoine) Domino, he told us that he grew up in the same neighbourhood and was friends with his kids - whose names all start with the letter "A".
    He said that Antoine was a really nice man and so were his kids, and that his whole life he never got a driver's licence. Phil asked if that was why he wrote "Walkin' to New Orleans". 😁 Fats would have someone drive him wherever he wanted to go in his Rolls Royce limousine, and of course, everyone wanted to drive him (it!).
    Fats' Lower Ninth Ward house was flooded by Katrina, and he had to be rescued by boat by the Coastguard. The house has been fixed since and is still there. Our driver told us that every year on his birthday, he goes to the Musical Legends Park and takes a photo of the statue. He said that Fats' "second line" (funeral procession) was the biggest he'd ever seen and ended up at Fats' old house ... there are videos of it on YouTube.
    The trip home was long but uneventful until we got back to Auckland. There was an hour long wait for the first bags to arrive - Phil's was in the first batch - and another 20-30 minutes to mine to come through. It was on the second trailer.
    The slow trickle of bags meant there was already a huge, long queue for biosecurity. All up, it took two and a half hours from the time we landed till we were "free."
    That meant we missed our connecting flight to Nelson. Three bookings, a false start with checking our bags, and three hours later (one cancelled flight, one standby and one that worked), we were on the last leg of the journey.
    We were met at the airport with bright sunshine, a full tide, and a warm welcome home from our very good friends Chris and Baumie.
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