The Beauty of Moving Slowly

April - May 2025
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This is my fourth Camino and the third time that I have attempted the Camino Frances from Saint Jean Pied de Port in south-west France to Santiago de Compostela in the north-west of Spain. Welcome to my blog and I hope you enjoy El Camino 2025. Read more
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  • Spain
  • France
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Hiking, Self discovery, Solo travel, Wellness
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  • Day 5–7

    Akerreta to Pamplona

    Yesterday in Spain ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Hi Everyone, and welcome to day three as I go from Akerreta to Pamplona.

    It’s not a long leg, which is a good thing because I’ve developed a doozy of a cold. No energy again, and after yesterday’s effort I’m a little disappointed. On the ascents I’m having to take it very slowly so as soon as I arrived in Pamplona, I hit the sack in an effort to get over this, whatever it is. It’s a rest day tomorrow so that should help. I don’t want to be a ‘bloke’ about this but it gives you a sense of the sorts of things you have to deal with.

    But back to Akerreta. We had a great dinner last night with Karen from Adelaide, and Mary and Scott from Oregon. This morning we woke to a beautiful still, sunny day and we were away. As I followed the Arga river along, you could hear the birds from every direction. As the day wore on, the path started to become more urbanised as we followed alongside some major roads.

    Just as I reached the outskirts of Pamplona, it started to lightly rain but I made it to my accomm without any difficulty. I got in around midday and I could see and hear various bands getting organised for the afternoon ahead. Crowds were spilling out from the tapas bars and it looked to be the start of a long afternoon and evening Easter celebrations.

    As I mentioned, tomorrow is a rest day so I probably won’t post unless something interesting arises. In case any of you are wondering about the distance discrepancies between various sources, I’m using a map.app that gives me the exact distance I walk.

    Click below for today’s Efren Gonzalez video. He walked from Larrasoaña which is between Zubiri and Akerreta.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0aa-LQ_tuE&amp…

    Buen Camino

    Distance today: 16.6 kms
    Total distance travelled so far: 66.4 kms
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  • Day 3–4

    Roncesvalles to Akerreta

    April 19 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    Well, today was a great day. I had long periods of drizzly rain during the morning interspersed with short periods of said rain dripping off the trees. But, by noon it had cleared to overcast and I could focus on the technically difficult descent into Zubiri.

    Following yesterday’s events, I was interested to see how I would go today. Happy to report that I found my mojo, my timing and pace were sound, and I was enjoying the countryside, the animals, the birds and having occasional conversations with fellow pilgrims. But more of that later.

    I want to address two things. First, I want to say a heartfelt “thank-you” to those of you following along and making comments. It makes me feel as though y’all are along for the ride.

    Second, I want to go back to the ‘event’ of yesterday. Last night I had a laugh about everything that transpired and today I spoke with two people who had been in exactly the same predicament as me with the wind. That made me feel better. I also want to acknowledge the kindness of the others involved and I hope to see them again and shout them a beer, or three. Finally, my Spanish friend’s sense of humour that missed the mark with me had as little to do with his story as it had to do with my poor command of the Spanish language. My language skills aren’t great but I’m trying and getting better. Yesterday’s situation was all down to me and I own it.

    Now, to today. One of the issues yesterday was my lack of energy when I needed it most. I had a meagre breakfast which did me no good at all and so from now on I’ll be loading up. Added to that was the fact that the food van that I had been heading for happened to pack up and drive back down the hill about five minutes before I would have arrived. That didn’t help but, again, my fault. Today I had a good brekky and it showed.

    The walk from Roncesvalles to Zubiri wasn’t too bad. There were a couple of steep pinches, followed by tricky descents. The last one into Zubiri is particularly dangerous because of the shale outcrops sticking up in the middle of the path. However, everything worked out and I managed it all without any damage. I managed to get to know Dieter from Germany, Andrew from Perth, the Hutchison family from Perth again, Karen from Adelaide, and a couple of others along the way.

    The accommodation tonight is at the Hotel Akerreta which is about six or eight kms past Zubiri. It is one of my favourite stops on the Camino and Joseph, the owner, is a proud Basque man whose independence and pride I relate to. Anyway, instead of spending a couple of hours walking here, Peter and I decided on a short taxi ride so that we could spend that time enjoying our accomm – and a quiet G&T.

    And so here we are, looking forward to a short fifteen kms into Pamplona tomorrow. Pamplona is a great city and it should be buzzing with Easter celebrations.

    Stay well penguins,

    Buen Camino

    Distance today: 21.7 kms to Zubiri
    Total distance travelled so far: 49.4 kms

    Click here to see Efren Gonzalez’ video of today’s leg.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NJB7iSQXQmM&amp…
    Read more

  • Day 2–3

    St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles

    April 18 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    So an Irishman, a Spaniard, two French men and a French woman take shelter in a rescue hut on the Camino on the trail over the Pyrenees. It’s not raining or snowing but the wind which was supposed to gust to around 50kph is now blowing constantly at around 85/90kph.

    As they stand at the doorway and debate what to do, an Australian who is bent at ninety-degrees into the wind, and has his walking poles ‘lefty’ and ‘righty’ firmly planted in the ground, slowly appears into their field of view as he is blown backwards by the wind – this isn’t the first time it had happened today, and nor would it be the last. The Irishman and the Spaniard quickly race out and drag the Australian into the hut with them. Six people are now crammed into a small space and the Spaniard starts making jokes that only he can understand, and then laughing raucously at his isolated sense of humour. The Irishman tilts his head to one side, starts nodding, knits his brow, and asks the Australian: “are you OK?” One of the French guys who looks to be about 30+ pulls out some food from his pack and urges the Australian to take it. The Australian looks at the vacuum pack that is given to him and recognises it as having the same pureed contents that his Grandchildren are fond of. He accepts it gratefully and starts sucking. The Australian’s humiliation is complete.

    Man, what a day. It started out with perfect weather and I was making good time until the winds started. I’d been enjoying the scenery and making contacts along the way but then nature conspired to put a spanner in the works. It resulted in me experiencing probably the hardest physical challenge that I’ve ever had to face. And another thing, while we’re on it. Just two years ago, I was the one asking others if they were OK. It happened to me three times today! I’m going to give it another few days before I decide whether this is a trend or an outlier but my confidence is shaky.

    On the positive side, I made it through the hardest day on the Camino Frances (in my opinion), I saw free range horses with bells around their necks grazing and ignoring the weather, saw mares nursing their foals, I made some good friends that I hope to see more of along The Way, the Pilgrim’s meal tonight was simple but fabulous, and the accommodation here at Roncesvalles is really comfortable. Speaking of which, I overheard the Receptionist here, telling someone who was hoping against hope, that all the hotels and the huge alburgue (hostel) here at Roncesvalles are full. Made me feel good about having booked all my accomm ahead of time.

    Tomorrow, I’m off to Akeretta and one of my favourite Camino stops. For those of you who have watched the original movie The Way, you’ll remember the courtyard dinner scene early in the movie where Michael Sheen starts arguing with everyone. Same hotel, and Joseph, the innkeeper, makes a fine beef stew.

    From today’s Efren Gonzalez video, you can see that Efren’s and my experience on this leg were quite different.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7q6uCulN8&amp…

    Distance today: 27.7 kms
    Total distance travelled so far: 27.7 kms

    Buen Camino
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  • Day 1–2

    St Jean Pied de Port

    April 17 in France ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Hola pingüinos, or more accurately, bonjour les pingouins because I’m still in France – just.

    I’m in the village of St Jean Pied de Port in south-west France after having spent 60 hours getting here thanks to a baggage handling problem in Paris and a missed train connection. But, here we are, and I’m sitting over a beer next to the River Nive before setting out on the Camino Santiago, el Camino, tomorrow. The Nive, by the way, is the lowest point on the Camino so it’s all up hill from here.

    St Jean is a beautiful little village and the most popular starting point of the Camino, although many Spanish pilgrims will say that it really starts in Roncesvalles where I’ll be heading tomorrow. St Jean has a long and colourful history that includes Richard the Lionheart, Napoleon, Roland, Charlemagne, and others. Today, the town is buzzing with family groups and a lot of pilgrims who will be setting out tomorrow. On the train in today, there was a large contingent of Koreans who are about to set out and their excitement was palpable.

    I’ll leave you to explore St Jean on-line if you like but it is worth a look and my photographic skills can’t compete with more able artists who can be found.

    While there are many people from all around the world, there are also some friends of mine who will be completing their own Caminos, and some who are just around because I know you like to hear from people like Efren Gonzalez who many of you enjoyed listening to last time. I’ll include a link to Efren’s video of the daily walk for you in each post and here is his first one. It's an overview to whet your appetite.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ux1hAlG9ETA&amp…

    Pete from Sydney is starting out with me tomorrow and, when we reach León in around three weeks time, Catherine and Lorraine from Point Lonsdale, and Vanessa from Sydney will be commencing their Caminos as well. As I’ve explained to many of you who have asked, we don’t walk together all day, every day, because we all walk at a different pace, but we do hook up at the end of each day for a drink and we will tell lies to each other about how great we think we are.

    Regarding my expectations, I’d like to remain open to the possibilities that the universe and the Camino will provide. While that side remains an open book, I do enjoy the scenery, the sights and sounds of nature, living in my head for a month, the food, the culture, and the camaraderie that I will experience along the way. I’m hoping to take more photos this time around on my humble iPhone and I hope you enjoy what we might see together.

    I’ll try to post each evening so that you’ll have something to accompany your morning coffee (for the followers in Oz), but that will all depend on the internet gods and the wifi connections that I will have at each stop.

    Anyway, that’s enough from me, I’ve include a few pics below but hopefully tomorrow will bring new vistas and more faces along The Way.

    Buen Camino
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