A 24-day adventure by Traveling Devols Read more
  • 28footprints
  • 2countries
  • 24days
  • 504photos
  • 7videos
  • 1.7kmiles
  • 991miles
  • Day 9

    Day 1 - Porto to Angeiras

    April 12 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Today was our first day’s walk on the Camino Portuguese. It was so much fun to get to share it with Miguel. And it doesn’t hurt that he speaks 5 languages. He is handy to have along in a pinch when ordering from a menu or trying to locate a bathroom.

    We left from the Porto cathedral and walked through the narrow streets of town to the river and then made our way to the coast. It was such a nice, peaceful walk as the day awakened. Once on the coast we headed north following beautiful wide beaches for nearly 16 miles. The weather was clear and warm which was a concern as the rains have been unyielding on this route for weeks. We always wish we had trained more but hope that we get stronger as the days go by. We should sleep well tonight.
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  • Day 10

    Day 2 - Angeiras to Póvoa de Varzim

    April 13 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Last night (our first night on the Camino) we stayed in an out of the way campground where Miguel spent 10 summers of his youth. We had a great little 2 bedroom cabin with a kitchenette and bathroom. We grabbed bread rolls, ham and cheese plus Fritos and Oreos from the campground store for dinner and forced ourselves to stay awake until 7:30pm 😂 Gosh we were beat!

    It is hard not to compare this Camino to the Frances route, but let me just say that walking all day looking at the ocean and listening to it crash against the shore all night is pretty heavenly. The fact that we have not encountered one proper hill is pretty crazy too. But that being said, the guys still have a few blisters to doctor and my hips are letting me know they don’t like carrying the backpack weight. Nothing I hope a little ibuprofen can’t handle. We are glad today’s 11 miles was a little shorter than yesterday.
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  • Day 11

    Day 3 - Póvoa de Varzim to Esposende

    April 14 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Day 3 on the Camino and the skies continue to be blue and the temperature warm. The same is forecasted for at least the next 10 days. This area has had so much rain previously that we were very nervous for our planned time here but we have been very lucky weather wise, so far.

    Today being Sunday, there were loads of families out walking and enjoying the beaches. We left later than we normally like because I (Peg) couldn’t pass up the free breakfast, that came with our room last night, but it wasn’t served until 8am. We arrived at our Albergue about 3:00 with many stops along the way to refuel our bodies and rest our weary bones. Tomorrow we have further distance to cover so will definitely be leaving earlier.

    As they say in Portugal, Bom Caminha!
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  • Day 12

    Day 4 - Esposende to Anha

    April 15 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    We covered 13 miles of a very different walk today. Moving inland from the beach a couple of miles put us in a different world. It changed from boardwalks on the beach to mountain trails and quiet villages. The path was very much like walking the Galicia region of the Camino Frances. It was cool with a light wind and wonderful smells of the forest.

    A highlight was crossing a river on a simple bridge in the middle of nowhere, it was a beautiful spot that felt magical.

    Once we came out of the forest we had a nice stroll by some churches and then a stop for a “Pilgrims Meal” at a small bar. Then to our Albergue (hostel) to recharge, wash clothes and prepare for tomorrow. Another amazing day!
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  • Day 13

    Day 5 - Anha to Carreço

    April 16 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    What a special day (5) it has been. We walked a shorter day of 11 miles that took us along a wonderful path in the hills just a couple of miles from the beach. One minute we were walking on narrow paths through a quiet village then on a dirt path through eucalyptus groves and then crossed streams on bridges constructed hundreds of years ago. Portugal is a beautiful country and seeing it at 3 miles per hour lets you really take it in.

    After 10 miles we stopped for a coffee and some snacks and met the first two Americans on this Camino so far. It is interesting the difference in who is walking this Camino compared to our last. Many Germans, more people from Eastern Europe, but few from the States. It really has been great having Miguel, with his language skills with us. We are constantly taking bets on where folks are from based on their accents. It's unbelievable how often Miquel gets it wrong and makes for a good laugh.

    At the end of today’s walk we arrived at Albergue Casa do Sardão, heaven on the Camino.
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  • Day 13

    Albergue Casa do Sardão

    April 16 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Sometimes you come across an Albergue that is too good to be true. We thought we found that last night at Casa do Carolina but tonight’s stay at Casa do Sardão is over the top and for the first time has required its own post. It is owned and operated by two guys; Hugo is local and Alex is from South Africa. The place they are running is the most serene place we have ever stayed. I asked Hugo for a job. I think he thought I was kidding but I don’t think I was. We may have found Heaven on Earth or at least heaven in Portugal 🇵🇹Read more

  • Day 14

    Day 6 - Carreço to Caminha

    April 17 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Today, as in the last few days, we’ve chosen to take the main coastal route rather than the coastal litoral route to start the day. This put us much more up on the mountain, which is a lot more work because it’s a lot more climbing. But the rewards were amazing because the views were incredible. We were up in the trees where the eucalyptus forests were cool and the trails were beautiful. We walked down paths with ancient walls and over old stone bridges. We took the road less traveled and were so glad we did.

    After about 6 miles we joined back with the litoral route and was treated to perfect coastal weather, no crowds and a path that was perfectly flat (something very different than climbing in the hills this morning). The path took us into Caminha where we are staying tonight. It is a wonderful village for our last day in Portugal. You can feel its age and character everywhere you look. We had a fun walk through the open market and then spent the afternoon in the square drinking beer, sipping coffees and enjoying the Portuguese pastries for the last time. Well, maybe we will have one more chance for pastries in the morning for breakfast. 😉

    Tomorrow we take a boat across the river to Spain. Spain has a lot to live up to. 🇵🇹 ❤️
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  • Day 15

    Day 7 - Caminha to Oia

    April 18 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    I think we were smuggled into Spain today……

    Getting up and going today was hard. Probably because we were all unusually sound asleep when the alarm went off. The thought of walking all day had lost its appeal. But today was not a day to dawdle as we had paid ahead for breakfast at the Albergue and a taxi to the river to catch a boat for Spain.

    Well breakfast was great and then the taxi showed up as promised. Four of us were loaded in and then sped away through the streets of Caminha like we were in a 007 movie. We held on for dear life and were then dumped off at an obscure place on the river where three guys were waiting for us and yelling 6€! 6€! We had our money ready, threw it at guy #1, was loaded into the boat by guy #2 and guy #3 threw us each a life jacket and just said “policia” which we understood to be he was only giving us a life jacket because it was the law. It was a crazy 15 minute boat ride across a choppy river with water slashing in the boat the whole way. We laughed until we cried 😂

    The driver pulled up on the opposite shore (no dock) and we jumped out. He waved, backed away and off he went. We were now standing on the shore of Spain with zero direction where to go. Again we laughed until we cried 😂

    This was the beginning of the best day ever. Perfect weather (again), perfect views, amazing second breakfast stop, fun conversations with other pilgrims, another great Albergue with free washer AND DRYER (so no handwashing and line drying today!!)

    I don’t want to jinx it but after a questionable start to our morning, this may be the best Camino day EVER. ❤️
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  • Day 16

    Day 8 - Oia to Baiona

    April 19 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Today started with a great first breakfast at our cute little Albergue. Pastries were delivered from the local bakery and then Marcus, from Estonia, made us some scrambled eggs. Marcus was one of the kindest, most considerate Pilgrims we have met on a Camino. It’s too bad he is young and fit so he is walking many more kilometers per day than the average pilgrim. That means we will probably never cross paths with him again. 😔

    After 4.5 miles to second breakfast I began getting worried about the hill mapped out before us. We haven’t had many climbs on this Camino so far. But we did a lot of highway walking today so the turnoff to the trail up the mountain was kind of a welcome sight. As it turns out, the climb was the best part of the day. It took us out of the sun and through a beautiful shaded forest with spectacular views of the ocean. On the downhill side, we stopped at the bottom, at another unique place, for a cold drink to refuel and celebrate our success. There we met two gentlemen from Portland who had completed 13 Caminos. We walked the last 3 miles into Baiona with them and heard many stories of their adventures.

    Another good day in the books. 11.8 miles further down the road to Santiago.
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  • Day 17

    Day 9 - Baiona to Vigo

    April 20 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Today we all woke up a little grumpy and indecisive. Where to find breakfast, what side of the street to walk on, panicked because we had not booked accommodations yet in Santiago and then the worst, what route to take today.

    We chose to do the coastal route of the Portuguese Camino because who wouldn’t want to walk on the coast for two weeks. But we soon discovered that there are many options along the way. Most days we have chosen the road less traveled and glad we did. It is always harder, with more climbing, but usually gets you out of the direct sun and has better views. Today the decision was like being asked what method of execution we preferred 🥴

    Tom finally veered to the right and once again we found ourselves on the road less traveled. But that is where we find all the pretty (old) stuff that peaks our interest; doors, gates, walls, forests, flowers etc. That is where locals shout “Buen Camino!” with enthusiasm from their verandas and store fronts as you pass by, even though they have probably said it a thousand times to a thousand pilgrims in their lifetime. Do they know what a huge encouragement they are? Some probably do because they have walked their own Camino but I think most just have the innate gift of encouragement. Either way, somedays it is all you need to hear to continue to put one foot in front of the other until you reach your destination for the day.

    Tonight we are in the big city of Vigo in a sweet little apartment. Showers and laundry are done and we have a little energy left to explore. 11 miles to Vigo and a taxi ride through the city to our apartment. Tomorrow is another day. 🇪🇸 ❤️
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