Butare

Drove south of Kigali to Nyamata, one of the many genocide memorial sites throughout Rwanda. These sites ensure we do not forget the estimated 1 million Tutsis killed over 100 days in 1994 and many of the sites are the actual locations where mass murders were carried out.
This memorial was a church where over 10,000 people had come to seek refuge, believing they would be safe from the killers. Unfortunately, they were murdered with grenades, guns, machetes and clubs. This is just one of many churches where similar atrocities occurred over this short period of time.
We were the only visitors and were led through the memorial by the caretaker who told us about the genocide, the reconciliation process that followed and what had happened at this site. It did not take long for both of us to break down, and writing this now, several hours later, we still feel the emotion. The church has been left as it was in 1994 after the slaughter. Though the bodies have been removed, the victim’s clothing and personal belongings remain stacked on the simple pews inside the church. It appears the mounds of clothing are covered in a thick layer of dust, but then you realize it is not dirt, but dried blood. The walls are pock marked from bullets and the ceiling is full of holes from gunfire and grenades, thrown into the crowded church, and covered in bloodstains. The altar remains in the church, but is also stained with the blood of the victims. Many skulls and countless coffins full of bones are stacked in various places within and near the church, mostly from unidentified or unidentifiable victims. Remains of victims still continue to be found in the surrounding area. Every year on April 14th (the date of the massacre), a memorial is held and remains are added to those at the memorial.
This was a very emotional visit and, as mentioned, both of us broke down and had to stop for several minutes. The caretaker left us, but returned with tissues – obviously this is a response many visitors experience. It’s crazy to think that this horrific event happened in our lifetime – at the time we were living in Japan and we don’t really recollect hearing about it until later. The entire world virtually ignored what was happening. Intensely sad. What’s amazing is how in such a short time the country seems to have come back together. The guide acknowledged that it’s not easy, but that the government and people continue trying to move forward.
We ended up staying an extra day in Butare because it was such a beautiful guest house (the nicest we’ve stayed at since Johannesburg). The owner is Rwandan-Swiss and built it to a beautiful standard. We spent the extra day visiting the Ethnographic Museum, which gave a very interesting history of the country and people. We also met a couple from Seattle, one of whom was a retired teacher here on a Peace Corp assignment. It was interesting to get his perspective on the country.Read more