Neapolis Philippi Amphipolis Apollonia

We headed northeast along the (relatively) new Highway Egnatia, bound for Philippi. As we cruised through the Macedonian countryside, we passed the ancient town of Apollonia, once a bustling stop along the historic Via Egnatia, midway between Thessaloniki and Amphipolis. Paul himself would have walked this route as he headed south.
Apollonia had long been lost to history, its existence questioned by skeptics. But in the summer of 2000, a farmer digging a trench in Central Macedonia struck gold - literally. He unearthed a solid-gold wreath, which led archaeologists to rediscover the ancient city of Apollonia of Mygdonia. The guide described him as a good man - im not sure what I would have done with a gold wreath! Excavations revealed fortification walls, towers, pottery kilns, graves, and statues, including a possible Nike of Samothrace. Founded by Philip II around 432 BCE, Apollonia’s legacy was revived, confirming its role as a major Macedonian hub.
We continued past ancient Amphipolis and arrived at Neapolis, the stunning port city on the Aegean Sea. Today it’s known as Kavala, nestled on the Bay of Kavala and facing the island of Thasos. It was here that Paul, Silas, Timothy, and Luke first stepped onto European soil. Just inland, as the harbour has silted up overt eh years and the coast moved a few hundred meters a modest church marks the location of the ancient docks from the 1st century.
Twenty kilometers inland, we reached the awe-inspiring ruins of Philippi. We celebrated Steve C’s birthday with a chorus of “Happy Birthday” in the ancient arena, possibly the most historic birthday venue ever. We wandered through the partially excavated city, tracing the path of the Via Egnatia as it entered through the gates and exited across the river, where massive stone pavers still lie in place.
The highlight? Standing in the Agora, mentioned in Acts 16:19, where the white statue of Fortuna marks the site of the ancient council. Just uphill in the upper city, the prison looms, visible from the public square. This is where Christian prisoners were held, and on one extraordinary night, the city would have echoed with the sound of hymn singing. Everyone in Philippi would have known what was happening, paving the way for the first ecclesia in Europe.
After lunch, we visited the river. In Paul’s time, ten Jewish men were required to form a synagogue, but with fewer in Philippi, they gathered by the river. It was here that Lydia became the first to be baptized. In this serene, shaded spot, we could almost hear the gentle murmur of Sabbath prayers and the joy of believers sharing time together.Read more