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- Day 1
- Sunday, March 30, 2025 at 2:56 PM
- ☁️ 3 °C
- Altitude: 164 m
CanadaMississauga43°40’36” N 79°36’43” W
3 Hour Layover in Toronto

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- Day 1
- Sunday, March 30, 2025
- ☀️ 17 °C
- Altitude: 28 m
EnglandHarlington Corner51°28’12” N 0°26’35” W
Heading Down to Heathrow

Rach arrived in Yorkshire from North wales around 7pm. Spontaneous decision to drive down to Heathrow and get a hotel, rather than risk traffic and panic (and a 4am start) as originally planned. A smooth 3.5hrs and asleep by 11pm at Ibis Styles Terminal 2. Absolutely thankful for that decision this morning, as we woke up, had a leisurely shower and breakfast (Rach being far too friendly and northern striking up conversation over the coffee machine, and in awe of the automated pancake machine). We then made the 7 minute drive to meet and greet, and proceeded to ping pong between the Air Canada check in desk and “bulky luggage” check in until we got sorted. Seamless and very friendly security (Manchester please take a leaf out of their book!) All done in good time for a mooch around duty free and to pick up some last minute monster munch for Dom. The pre-flight giddiness was real.
First flight of 7hr 10 to Toronto left at 12.05. Enjoyed the selection of films (“500 Days in the Wild” - a harrowing Canadian pilgrimage to inspire future travels & “One Love” - the Bob Marley biopic for me). The only complaint was that our seat didn’t have a bloody window! Nothing like the “restricted view” warnings at the theatre… which was disappointing. Especially when the captain announced the “beautiful areal views of northern Quebec”.
We had free rein of a small and unremarkable area of Toronto airport for 3 hours. Learned that that’s more than enough time for a connection here in future. Burgers for tea and looking out onto the misty grey runway not dissimilar to Manchester.Read more
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- Day 1
- Sunday, March 30, 2025
- ☁️ 26 °C
- Altitude: 919 m
Costa RicaRío Segundo9°59’52” N 84°12’13” W
Arrival in Costa Rica

The final flight to San Jose was a slow ?5 hours. I enjoyed Mowana 2 and some of Ewan McGregor & Charley Boorman’s motorcycle adventure “Long Way Up” but mostly snoozed. Interesting debate whether the flashes of white light were other planes or a distant lightening storm… cool either way!
We were flagging given it was now 3am at home, and pleased to land around 9pm local time.
One small hiccup at border control… the policeman wanted the name of our first accommodation whilst here. We tried to call Dom who had so kindly sorted this along with the hire car. No answer/patchy WiFi. Some quick thinking allowed us to get that all important entry stamp and signature and we were on our way through to arrivals. Who was waiting to greet us? Dom!! Tanned, slim and relaxed as ever!
A short drive to our cosy apartment and a good catch up in the post tired travel delirium…
Let the adventure begin!Read more
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- Day 3
- Tuesday, April 1, 2025
- ☁️ 28 °C
- Altitude: 17 m
Costa RicaCahuita9°44’9” N 82°50’24” W
San Jose to Cahuita - Carribean Coast

Well, my body clock is wildly out of whack today, mostly being awake since 3.30am. Rach and I were showered, cafinated and repacked by 7.30am and ready to explore! Dom was soon ready and we went for a delicious breakfast at “Delicias” (rice and beans, skillet veg, eggs, pancakes) - even practicing our Spanish.
We left the apartment and started the drive to Cahuita, just under 4hrs away in the Limon region. A bit of traffic especially coming out of San Jose. Nice chats, including Dom’s anecdotes from his cycling adventure. He tells us Costa Rica is more developed than the other central
Americas… likely due to its relatively stable government.
Passed through Braulio Carrillo National park (roads in great nick) winding up and down the lush green valleys. Then across the country to the Eastern coast. Loved taking in the sights en route, seeing the array of different houses… some on stilts with hammocks below, the builders on the rods, electricians working on the bundles of wires lining the roads. Nobody is hurrying, but somehow things seem to tick along.
Approaching Cahuita Dom needed to break quite heavily, as a huge Iguana ran across the road. We got our first glimpse of tomorrow’s stop - Costa Rica’s National sloth sanctuary, very exciting.
Arrived at our accommodation “The Secret Garden” which was a fabulous small complex of barrel rooms along with the shared dorm.
Went for a stroll down “white beach” though were turfed off within half an hour (who knew national parks have opening times) but walked onto the nearby “black beach” where we played in the huge waves, watched the surfers and forraged a coconut. The sea was warmer than any Ive felt before, and sand so smooth I didn’t need my sea shoes for once!
Back to get showered, meet the cute pair of Aguti near our room, then tea and cocktails at Cocos. An early night needed…Read more
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- Day 3
- Tuesday, April 1, 2025
- ☁️ 28 °C
- Altitude: 14 m
Costa Rica9°47’55” N 82°54’53” W
A Whole Lotta Sloth

I didn’t mind waking up at 4.30am one bit. It was like listening to Alexa’s rainforest noises with a some intermittent monkeys and birds on max volume. Climbed out of our cosy barrel to nip to the loo and was greeted by monkeys through the trees above. They were jumping around, managed to catch a mum and baby on video. Noticed little blue crabs in their nests too… so many animals and we’re not in any national park yet. It was like being taken back to primal times - they’re the threats the amygdala was designed for, not traffic jams and work deadlines!
We had a yummy basic breckie of scrambled egg and toast at another Soda (diner) - tried Naranjillo juice (a native orange plant which was delicious and tasted like sweet refreshing cinnamon).
Spent an incredible morning at Costa Rica’s National Sloth Sanctuary. They are a national symbol of the country, but being relatively small this is the only rescue/rehab centre. We first took a canoe ride where we spotted a family of howler monkies, distant sloths munching almond leaves, dragon flies, butterflies, crabs with 1 giant pincer, lizards, camels… but the highlight… I herd a shriek from Rachel… turning round she was covered in steaming brown monkey poo which had fallen from the canopy above!!
Inside the sanctuary was amazing - we met the permanent resident 2 and 3 fingered Sloths that were unable to survive in the wild (blind, amputee, etc), and saw the area where they teach and reintroduce the ones that can. Our guide was funny and we learned a lot. I feel a key fact was that they come down from their tree once per week only and pass 1kg of stool and 1litre of urine - what a way to hedge your bets and keep clear of predators!
Afternoon spent on the white beach, in the warm sea, playing a combination of coconut shy meets boules we fashioned out of driftwood and coconuts. Dom is incredibly competitive but it was worth loosing seeing the funniest celebration dance - rolling around making angels in the sand hahaha!! Called to have a drink (and tried some coconut hummus) on the way back and saw two backpackers being filmed which was VERY exciting… I’ll say no more there but we had to give consent for our footage to be used.
After a rest and shower we went out for food (quesedella and pizza to share), cocktails (Rach tried Soursop another native juice, this one apparently having superfood/antioxidant properties) and characteristically competitive Uno and “hello Clarice” belly laughs!Read more
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- Day 4
- Wednesday, April 2, 2025
- ☀️ 31 °C
- Altitude: 245 m
Costa RicaLa Fortuna10°28’2” N 84°38’39” W
Cahuita to La Fortuna

Had our last breakfast at Soda Kawe sampling some more Naranjilla juice and eggs on toast. On the way back admired the black eagles hopping along the road and huge crickets. Packed up and made the 4 hour drive to La Fortuna.
We found the drivers, especially the big lorries so polite, happy to let you in, and equally stoked to be let in!
Stopped for coffee and WiFi pit stop at Soda Pura Vida then the journey continued… amazing to see Arenal volcano moving closer into view from the horizon, and more “saggy neck white cows” (must try get a photo!)
Esteban our landlord for the next 3 nights met us and gave us the run down of our budget stay for the next 3 nights. We may have budgeted a little too hard on this one (saving money for activities) but we’ll see.
To start with the savings offset the accidental £80 shop at what must have been the equivalent of Waitrose. Wine and coffee totalling £20+ and an £8 jar of olives were some of the indulgences… but the goal was dinner ingredients.
We moseyed down the road to check out a river swim spot recommended by Esteban and spent a while watching the daredevils launching themselves in from the rope swing. We decided at around 30-50 years old we may be past that, and happier cooling off and swimming around the small waterfall.
Rach treated us to a massage down the road as part of our relaxing day which was just lovely! Made nice veggie quesadillas and salad for tea, then characteristic competitive games… tonight “fish fruit flower veg”. I enjoyed a very rare winning streak, and Dom was yet to win a round (much to Rach and my delight). He was however, a gracious looser and right before bed a valiant saviour. We returned to our room to an insect (apparently Cockroach 😭🤢) perched on the headboard. It was swiftly escorted away by Dom then we did a thorough sweep to ensure no more had infiltrated. I started trying to sleep wrapped in my sleeping bag liner, packed for such occasions, but quickly became too hot and thought I’d brave it!Read more
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- Day 5
- Thursday, April 3, 2025 at 7:25 PM
- ⛅ 25 °C
- Altitude: 646 m
Costa RicaLa Fortuna10°28’14” N 84°43’50” W
Volcanic Vistas at Arenal & Moving House

Breakfast at Soda La Hormiga before a gorgeous 5 mile hike of the lava fields from the 1968 eruption of Arenal volcano. It last erupted in 2010, though it was a bit disconcerting the rangers had everyone reverse onto the parking sports incase a quick escape was needed due to another eruption! The loop was a gorgeous one, over the solidified magma formations, and we spotted various wildlife on the way - a huge snake coiled in the tree above, butterflies, colourful geckos, birds (montezuma orependolas doing the most fascinating mating dance), and the woodpecker was a real treat, along side an array of beautiful colourful fauna and huge entwining jungle trees. We heard the bees and deafening crickets as we negotiated the rough volcanic ground, but found the route well marked. We stopped to munch our snacks on the mountain viewpoint but were still mourning the ant infested pizza from a couple of days ago that had to be binned earlier.
Afterwards we enjoyed fresh juice at the cafe/restaurant with panoramic views, then a delicious coffee/lunch stop on the way home. This was followed by a much needed siesta (I was getting a bit grumpy after my disrupted sleep due to the stifling heat and inadequate fan - Dom, ever the gent kindly trading fans for tonight).
This kind trade was however not enough. Rach and I woke from our slumber again dazed, overheated and discombobulated. We made an executive decision that as nice as £12 per person per night was, we need some foist-free air con luxury in our life, and for £100 we upgraded to a lovely little apartment “The Bees House” for the next 2 nights. Absolute best decision of the trip so far - a lovely home from home, perfect for our evening cooking up cheese on toast, a couple of beers and more laughs and games (with our new sloth playing cards).Read more
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- Day 6
- Friday, April 4, 2025 at 8:27 PM
- ☁️ 24 °C
- Altitude: 97 m
Costa RicaFlorencia10°24’22” N 84°31’36” W
Rubber Dingy Rapids on the Bolsa

Woke up after a good cool sleep. Planning MDT over breakfast and coffee to look at how we can fit everything else we want to see in this beautiful country into just one more week! A challenge, but we have a vague plan… also managed to fathom the interesting outdoor washing machine which was much needed!
Today was white water rafting with Arenal Rafting. Jader was our rafting guide / comedian! When asked how long he’d been doing it he joked it was his second day, and ended the introductory talk with “go big or go home”. It was a 40 minute bus ride passing fields of sugar cane, fruits, eco fences (lines of trees). We pulled over to check out a wild sloth sleeping in a low tree (wouldn’t have spotted without Jader as it looked like a hairy coconut). We then disembarked at the bank of the river Bolsa and were suited and booted ready.
We were in a boat with an interesting Native American traveller named Lou, and we all agreed it was an enjoyable few hours. The break for fresh fruit served on overturned rafts as tables was a lovely refreshing touch - the mango and pineapple were so sweet, fresh and juicy; not like the shipped over ones we get in the UK. I was astonished we didn’t capsize like 2 other rafts, but I must say our paddling was on-point which must have helped. Also great to see some huge iguanas relaxing in the trees (Godzilla), a token heron, and cormorants.
Had dinner back at rafting HQ and had a good laugh at the action shots taken. It was then back to our “Bee House” for a rest and more planning.
Leftover ingredients for quesadillas for tea too. Relaxing end to a fun-filled day!Read more
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- Day 7
- Saturday, April 5, 2025 at 9:08 PM
- ☁️ 27 °C
- Altitude: 12 m
Costa RicaJacó9°36’10” N 84°37’11” W
Waterfall Frolics, to a Pacific Paddle

After another cool refreshing sleep (thankfully non-air con days are behind us) we packed up, checked out and headed off to Don Jorge Farm, eager to learn about their coffee and cocoa bean plantations. Pablocio greeted us and began to show and talk us through some of the crops grown in the mineral ritch volcanic soil - Pink banana (not for human consumption but Toucan’s delight), turmeric and ginger roots, cocoa beans, achote (red seeds used as a natural dye, used as food colouring/ by indigenous people as war paint /Rach and I as lipstick). Our minds were blown by the pineapple plants (which take 9-10 months to produce fruit unless chemicals are used, but this makes the flavour less sweet).
Don Jorge have 140 cacao trees but 30% of their fruits are eaten by chocoholic squirrels as soon as the pods become overripe. We learned about their pollinators - a special breed of mosquito, humming birds, bees, fruit bats, etc, and tasted some freshly picked beans with a mango-like white outer pulp. Tasting the cocoa throughout the process was interesting, as it starts off so bitter, and only gets its chocolate taste after 2 weeks of fermentation, before they’re dried which makes them easier to ground to powder.
We enjoyed the demonstration, experimenting with chocolate flavours and making our own, as well as learning about arabica coffee only being able to be grown at altitude, and Robusta (coffee more typical of lowlands) being double the caffeine content.
We tasted sugar cane liquor (30% proof but just tasted like sweetened water!) coffee, chocolate (a mix of vanilla, pepper, cloves, cinnamon making xocolatl - the real recipe that mayans/aztecs used to use to prepare their hot chocolate drink, with the addition of red chilli). During this, we were also lucky to spot fleeting humming birds and Yiguirro (clay coloured thrush, Costa Rica’s national bird).
After spending a small fortune on local produce we took a short jungle stroll to the farm’s waterfall to cool off. It was beautiful and we were so lucky to have it all to ourselves.
Then, we hit the winding mountain roads of Caratera national park. I was a bit sickly after all the chocolate. Stopped for a juice and toasty halfway, just south of San Jose, then continued the second 1.5 hours to Jaco. There were several patches of questionable road covering, expertly manoeuvred and navigated by Rach and Dom, and as ever I brought the tunes. After climbing high into the hills with the many beautiful cloud soaked vistas, we descended back into lower ground, where the temperature rose again and the pacific eventually came into view.
We arrived in Jaco, checked into our lovely hostel for the night, then went for a sunset dip in the sea. It was unbelievably like diving into to a warm bath, and nice to watch the surfers catching the last of the daylight on the waves. Upon leaving, a huge avocado fell out of a tree in front of me in the courtyard - now that’s foraging 🤩 🥑
After a shower we all hit a bit of a wall, decided to nip into town for some food (delicious pizza and mushroom pasta) then an early night. Rach removed a baby lizard from the room, and all was well…Read more
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- Day 8
- Sunday, April 6, 2025 at 8:36 PM
- ☁️ 26 °C
- Altitude: Sea level
Costa RicaBahía Ballena9°9’10” N 83°45’13” W
Jaco to Uvita Coastal Drive

We were up bright and early and enjoyed video calls with family, a classic Costa Rican breckie (rice, beans, plantain, egg and hot sauce), then a lovely relaxing morning playing dominoes and cooling off in the pool. Wandered around the bustling strip of Jaco. Quite a lively touristy sport, though various families of Venezuelan beggars which wasn’t great. Before leaving we enjoyed some gelato then hopped into the car for our 1hr 40 costal drive. Just out of Jacó we made a swift U-Turn to stop and admire a huge parrot at the top of a roadside tree. The drive wasn’t as beautiful as envisioned, more like Groundhog Day with palm groves - we were blown away at first by the acres and acres of groves, but the straight road soon became tiresome, but tunes and chat passed the drive.
We arrived in Uvita, and checked into our apartment (a little upmarket treat in preparation Rach’s birthday tomorrow). We relaxed in the cool lounge/by the pool, before heading out to catch the sunset. Walked allong the beach admiring the hazy hills in the distance, the pink sunsetting over the palm trees, and the little crabs scuttling across the smooth sand.
Uvita itself is a strange place, a bit like a South American Wild western town… much lower key than Jaco and spread out, with more whale watching tours operators than hotels. We found a fabulous Mexican restaurant where we enjoyed a lovely meal after picking up supplies for our early start/ tomorrow’s adventure…Read more
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- Day 10
- Tuesday, April 8, 2025 at 12:40 AM
- ☁️ 28 °C
- Altitude: 22 m
Costa Rica8°37’23” N 83°44’8” W
Corcovado National Park

It was so worth waking up at 5 to get ready and meet our tour company (Bellina Tours) in town for 6am. After getting suitably sun creamed and deet-sprayed, we were introduced to Carlos, our guide. He
informed us there was nobody else booked on the tour, so a private tour felt very fitting for Rach’s birthday!
We caught a bumpy but pleasant 90 minute speedboat around to the San Pedrillo Ranger Station, during which we saw a black and yellow poisonous sea snake and Dolphin pod. Corcovado National Park is one of the largest parks in Costa Rica, is impassible by car other than 4x4, and hosts an impressive 3% of biodiversity on this side of the planet (far more than the UK, Canada, and the US combined!). You’re not permitted entry without a certified guide either.
We were absolutely treated to see and learn about so many animals during the hike. We’d only been off the boat 10 minutes and there was a gorgeous Tapir (a relative of the rhino/horse) foraging in the roughage, and not one bit bothered by us!
Carlos’ telescope was excellent to see tree life up close, starting with two Macaw Parrots. These sweet birds mate for life (hence we’ve often seen them flying around in pairs) and if one dies, they tend to stay alone thereafter. They live 60-80 years in wild, but the oldest recorded was 120 years!
We also saw a Tree Turkey, Dolce Anos (neck lizard), Baby Tiger Heron (these are carnivorous and feed on baby crocodiles, crabs, fish, and even other birds - more vicious than our meek UK herons!), Howler Monkeys (the one that threw poo at Rach in Cahuita, though known as “the laziest monkies of Costa Rica”). There was also a Crab-eating Black Hawk, Baby Boa Constrictor (learning that there are 147 snake species in snake in Costa Rica, 24 of which are poisonous), a raccoon-like Coati darting through the trees above before coming down to forage, spiders, crabs, and finally a lurking crocodile! The huge roots of the cahuita tree were super impressive, as was the dense jungle (though this was only secondary, hence the number of fruit trees and wildlife).
After a much needed lunch of rice, pastas, fruits, etc, we returned via speedboat and were straight in the pool at the apartment to cool off and relax after all the excitement! There was a short rain shower, then we nipped to the shop for ingredients for a fresh “picky bits” tea. A very fun evening was spent playing various games - thankfully the apartment below had vacated earlier that day, as they likely wouldn’t have enjoyed our singing to 90’s hits and Rummie/quiz disputes!Read more
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- Day 10
- Tuesday, April 8, 2025 at 8:51 PM
- ☁️ 27 °C
- Altitude: 130 m
Costa RicaQuepos9°24’47” N 84°9’21” W
Sun, Sea, Surf and Storm

Lovely relaxing morning drinking coffee and watching the tiny yellow-breasted birds hopping around on the balcony from bed.
Went down into Uvita for a spot of shopping then headed just 10 minutes out of town to “Catarata Esmeralda Uvita” - a lovely little complex comprising of a cafe, short waterafall trail and butterfly house for only £3 entry. The butterflies were beautiful (especially the brown ones with the big “eye” on the outer wing, opening up to be a bright blue colour) but tricky to snap a photo of.
The daredevils slid down from the top waterfall but all 3 of us, having worked with people with brain injuries in the past, decided our risk assessments didn’t lead us to do the same. We cooled off with delicious smoothies and a spot of lunch, before heading to the beach.
When we found the right entrance to Martino Ballena National Park (there are 2!), Rach took a tiring but enjoyable surf lesson with Leonardo; whilst Dom and I chilled out on the beach and spectated from the shallows.
We then headed on our way, an hour up the coast to Quepos, arriving just before dusk, with a storm brewing. We checked into our lovely apartment at Pura Natura Lodge (loving the fact each bedroom has a double bed and set of bunk beds - Ive opted for top bunk!).
Decided being later on, we’d head next door to El Lagarto restaurant for dinner. It was a seafood and steakhouse with the smokey aroma from the open grill wafting through, boasting delicious smoked vegetarian options for Rach and Dom too. We watched the lightening illuminating Quepos and beyond, whilst tucking into brownie and banana split for pud. As we dashed back through the rain, we were all quite snoozy from the sun, sea and surf; so decided an early night was in order, ready to explore another, and perhaps the most famous national park in Costa Rica tomorrow.Read more
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- Day 11
- Wednesday, April 9, 2025 at 8:42 PM
- ☁️ 27 °C
- Altitude: 20 m
Costa RicaQuepos9°23’4” N 84°8’35” W
Manuel Antonio National Park

Having arrived after dark last night, I was keen to take in the surroundings this morning. Wow they did not disappoint. Swinging in a hammock on the veranda sipping Costa Rican coffee, listening to the birds (bright-rumpled attilas and piratical flycatchers - thank you Merlin Bird Sound ID app!) and admiring the colourful pairs of blue/red Macaws swooping overhead and bright green Paraqueets was just fabulous. I reflected how fortunate we’ve been to take such an incredible trip, and that there are still places like Costa Rica that are both safe to visit and that prioritise housing and protecting wildlife.
We all had lots of fun playing with two very good dogs on the veranda, before getting ready and heading out to possibly the coolest restaurant/bar in Costa Rica - El Avion. Not only was the food delicious and views over the valley to the sea amazing, but the place was steeped in scandalous US history (see photo).
We then headed down to Manuel Antonio National Park. We’d read ahead and managed to avoided the parking touts flagging us down on the approaching roads, and parked as advised just outside the welcome centre with a lanyard-wearing official for just $10.
We opted to take a self-guided walk, around the smallest and perhaps most densely tourist-populated park. We saw a
sloth on entry, admittedly difficult to see without a super-duper telescope, as was the Paraqueet chick. It was easier to see the Iguana posing by the path, and we had a walk with a particularly rowdy pack of capuchin monkeys… the absent minded tourists who did not leave them be and walk on by as advised, getting bitten and scratched. It’s easy to forget you’re actually in their habitat, and the animals need to be admired from a distance and respected.
We did the “Punta Cathedral” walk, allong the whale tail-shaped land (I was ever so pleased as this is pictured on the front of my lonely planet guide and is iconic of Costa Rica). It was incredibly humid, but we were rewarded with amazing views across the bright blue Pacific, and a pair of beautiful large iguanas at one of the beaches. We returned to the mainland and enjoyed a cooling but tepid dip among the gentle waves in the bluest, warmest water I have ever seen/felt.
We then retired to shower, rest and enjoy the sunset (and local horses) from our veranda, before heading down into Quepos for a lovely meal at El Gran - stuffed pepper for Dom and Rach and a yummy veg teriyaki for me… allong with a few beers. All the heat, fun and early wake ups called for a relaxing evening…Read more
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- Day 12
- Thursday, April 10, 2025 at 7:29 PM
- ☁️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 1,385 m
Costa RicaMonteverde10°18’50” N 84°49’10” W
Quepos to Monteverde (“Green Mountain”)

Awake early again and enjoyed a final coffee on the veranda, this morning listening to the howler monkeys grunts echoing across the valley from a nearby canopy, and watching the birds and dragon flies darting by. Finally saw wild Toucans (like the Macaws in a pair) swooping across then landing in a nearby tree, their striking yellow beaks and “skwawks” setting them apart from the other birds.
As usual we were too busy faffing and relaxing, had a late breakfast and quick pack up and check out, before making the 10 minute dash to the marina for our snorkel trip. We were a little late, but 2 kind locals helped make a call to our tour guide, and we eventually found the boat “Camikane” (after skulking past 3 large iguanas seemingly guarding the bridge down onto the docks).
We were swiftly given our flippers and equipment, and on our way across the water (admiring a huge flock of pelicans en route).
We had 2 snorkel spots, the first housing many more blue and yellow striped fish/larger black flat fish; the second more urchins/ blue fish with red speckles, and a jellyfish. Visibility was quite poor, apparently due to the recent rain showers, but still an enjoyable couple of hours.
It was then a 3.5 hour drive up to Monteverde, our final national park of the trip. Stopped for fuel and Costa Rican Cornetto, then continued up the coast, before weaving inland and meeting some rainfall. The last 20km were very windy roads but overall in much better condition than those between La Fortuna and Jacó.
As we climbed higher and higher, we were met with blue sky, random mountain dogs, cooler weather, and the first panoramic cloud drenched hills. This was captured quite well in todays’s video, as well as the signature “saggy neck cows”.
Our accommodation for the next 2 nights “Rustic Tree House” was tricky to find, but we eventually negotiated the bumpy road, through the gates and were shown inside. A beautiful, cosy apartment with everything we need.
After some down time we braved the storm (albeit only for 5 minutes) and went out for a lovely tea at one of the oldest restaurants in Monteverde, restaurant Delucaia, established over 20 years ago. We enjoyed local food and drinks (I cant get enough of the sweet glazed baked plantain).
Back to the tree house for some quizzing before bed… hopefully the storm will pass by tomorrow (and our little tree house won’t blow away!)Read more
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- Day 13
- Friday, April 11, 2025 at 1:25 PM
- ☁️ 23 °C
- Altitude: 1,381 m
Costa RicaMonteverde10°18’49” N 84°49’10” W
Cloud Forest Adventure & Car Trouble

Enjoyed coffee in bed this morning watching the wind howling, trees shaking and birds clutching on for dear life. As we left the wind settled, and it was a short drive to “Stella’s”. The guide book mentioned seeing birds from the garden, but given it was around 9am, not really any birds but the forest foraged omelettes, fruit bowls and smoothies in the beautiful gardens were lovely nonetheless.
We then enjoyed a 5.6 mile hike around Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological
preserve. A pretty special place, given the rare occurrence of subtropical mountainous environments, where the atmospheric conditions produce a consistent cover of clouds. We noticed an abundance of flora and fauna, different shades of moss, leaves and vines; and air was misty yet fresh (the cool climate more akin to the UK than the other places we have visited due to altitude). This park was beautiful. Not much during the daytime on the wildlife front, some millepedes and beautiful slate throated redstart birds (blue/yellow with small red mohicans).
Coffee and cake at the cafe to refuel, then on the way out we took a walk through the hummingbird garden. This was incredible and made our day! So many hummingbirds darting around feeding on the sugar water bottles dangling above, their wings beating so fast the sounded like small buzzing engines zooming past our ears. Difficult to pull ourselves away - the blue and green hummingbirds were mesmerising, but we did eventually go for a wander around the bustling small town in St Elena.
We went back to the treehouse to rest a while. Due to more than half of Monteverde’s wildlife being nocturnal we opted for a night tour, and headed out for a 6pm start excited to see the rainforest come alive. Unfortunately disaster struck and our beloved Hyundai Venu wouldn’t start! A dreaded “ESC” warning light and a call to the breakdown. Our lovely friend at restaurant let us use his phone, so we opted to have a few beers there and wait for the outcome…
Just over 2 hours, (7 beers, 2 wines and various sharing starters) later Dom got a call from the company, who were outside. They worked some battery magic and the car was hopefully fixed by 8.30…. Then some more celebratory beers! Still had a lovely evening despite not quite going to plan!Read more
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- Day 14
- Saturday, April 12, 2025
- ☁️ 27 °C
- Altitude: 814 m
Costa RicaGarita10°0’42” N 84°16’31” W
Rescate Wildlife Rescue Centre

The wind didn’t make for a peaceful sleep, but we were ready to go nonetheless!
We packed up one last time, and headed out for breakfast at “Soda La Amistad”. There decor was so lovely, with mural-filled walls and sweet plaques. We enjoyed traditional breckie and omelettes.
We then drove back down to lower ground, winding down the sunny lush green valleys and past fields of “saggy neck cows” while the temperature climbed again. At one toll we were given a haul of free snacks, but as I excitedly tucked in the crackers they turned out to be disgusting! They were swiftly donated to a grateful passer by in town later on. For the remainder of the journey we rinsed the last of the extensive 80s playlist that has served us well the past fortnight.
Our final stop was Rescat Animal Sanctuary, just outside of San Jose. Notably Central America’s largest wildlife rescue centre, they help 3000 animals annually, aiming to rehabilitate and release them where possible. The stories of the rescued animals were so moving, and where re-release isn’t possible they become permanent residents. The enclosures were huge, and the VR experience was really unique. My highlights were seeing the jaguars and oselots up close, the white peacock and huge crocodiles, and understanding more about the breading programme for the animals at risk of endangered status. The large bearded dragons milling around the paths (outside enclosures) were quite disconcerting too. A really enjoyable afternoon.
Then a drive through bustling Arajuella to our last stopover, and out for the most delicious veggie burgers at “El Chante Vegano”.
Despite being “expired” (ha!) I.e. super tired… we mustered up the energy for a last few card games. With our “gloat chart” tallied up, Dom gets the final gloat this time, much to his delight. We had an early night in preparation for our flight home tomorrow.Read more
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- Day 15–16
- April 13, 2025 at 4:12 PM - April 14, 2025
- 1 night
- ☁️ 11 °C
- Altitude: 53 m
EnglandCalderdale53°41’56” N 1°52’37” W
Homeward Bound - Lost in Time

Up at 5am ready for a day of travel and crazy time zone hopping! The plan is today (Sunday) a 5hr 15min flight San Jose to Toronto, 3hr 10 layover, then a 7hr 30min flight, and arrival of 6.35am (Monday) London time!
That’s 16 hour travel -7hour time difference… I’ll never understand how we arrive the next day 😂🤯
Anyway, an eventful morning - the car wouldn’t start again, so we said our sad goodbyes to Dom (who will probably be glad to not have socks, cameras and various belonging strewn across his accommodations, but secretly miss us really) to continue his adventures. Luckily we only had a 10 minute Uber to the airport.
The car has generally been really good, 2 hiccups aside - very impressed to tot up the fuel yesterday - all those miles driven we only spent £100 in fuel! Overall a convenient, comfortable and economical way to get around… when it works!
Everything went smoothly in the airport (apart from me dropping my passport and boarding pass down the toilet 😂 - retrieved but soggy) and we were pleased to have a window seat this time, so we could admire the volcanic vistas before disappearing into the clouds. Time seemed to pass quickly on the flights… (whether opting to finally watch Lord of the Rings had something to do with it?) and everything as smooth as can be. It was amazing to see sunset in Canada and sunrise in London. We were pretty tired on the 4hr drive from Heathrow to Yorkshire (back for lunchtime) and Rach then made it back to North Wales.
I know when we’ve recovered from the journey we’ll remember Costa Rica as an amazing place, and this special adventure...Pura Vida!Read more