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  • Emma Harvey-Robinson

Peru

A 16-day adventure by Emma Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 16, 2023
    Emma Harvey-RobinsonPeruEmma Harvey-Robinson

    Goodbye Manchester!

    August 16, 2023 in England ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Time to travel half way across the world! Set off to Manchester at 2am and arrived in Lima at 5pm.
    Loved KLM - friendly staff, good snacks/meals/ comfy seat.
    Treated to views across the Amazon Rainforest and first glimpse of the Andes!
    After a nail biting wait at the carousel (bags regularly go missing at Lima) both of our bags arrived safe by some miracle!    Read more

  • Emma Harvey-RobinsonPeruEmma Harvey-Robinson

    A Warm Welcome to Peru

    August 16, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After a 12 hour flight we were so happy to see Miguel holding a sign “Rachel & Emma”. An hours drive to Peruvian John’s house taking in our first glimpse of Lima, then gorgeous views from his rooftop terrace/garden.

    John took us for a local walk, and to a small Chinese restaurant for tea. Our first taste of Peruvian food - Rach opted for a veggie rice stir fry, and me an “airport special” - we didn’t know what this would be, turned out to be a delightful mix of rice, noodles, beef, pork and prawn (I was feeling brave on the meat front! Though may go veggie to avoid accidentally eating Guinea pig for the rest of the trip….) Big portion (neither of us finished it) and delicious. Tried “Inca Cola” too - bought out by Coca Cola now, but still the most popular drink in Peru (tastes like Iron Bru).

    Back to the house via introductions with the dogs of Lima - looked like strays but not, owners happy to let them wander around. Also sampled “emolliente” from a known van - a warm syrupy tonic of citrus, sugar and aloe vera.

    Rach enjoyed an introduction to jiu jitsu and got winded 😂
    Emma enjoyed spectating, knowing that a big portion, being awake for 25 hours and martial arts would not mix well for her. Excited to see what tomorrow will bring…    Read more

  • Emma Harvey-RobinsonPeruEmma Harvey-Robinson
    1

    Exploring Lima then on to Cuzco

    August 17, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Woke at 4.30 - Egg/olive sandwiches for breckie from a local stand.

    Took a taxi to the fish market where we also saw some beautiful pelicans, and a glimpse of sea lion swimming.
    After a steep/rocky hike to the highest telemast we descended via “Christo Del Pacifico” Lima’s version of Brazil’s Christ the Redeemer.

    John had amazing insights into the communities fashioning houses outside the centre when covid hit, and the close proximity yet stark divide between wealth and comparable poverty is evident.

    As we passed a drug and alchol rehabilitation centre we got talking to the founder, who invited us inside for a chat; then a lovely visit to a primary/pre school where Johns students volunteer - loved playing/jig saws with the kids.

    Taxi to Barranco for lunch - yummy avocado, then off to Lima airport to catch our short flight to Cusco….    Read more

  • Emma Harvey-RobinsonPeruEmma Harvey-Robinson

    29,000 steps and welcome to Cuzco!

    August 17, 2023 in Peru ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    We were again fortunate… both bags followed us to Cusco!
    Caught a Taxi which eventually found our hotel - Hostal Qolqampata - enjoyed the panoramic view and a freshen up, then out to pick up some tea and our altitude sickness prevention drugs (aceltazolamide). Surprisingly out of breath when climbing the stairs - Cusco sits at 3,339 meters above sea level (the trek will take us a little higher to 4,600 meters, despite Machu Picchu only being 2,430!)

    We found Green Point Vegan cafe - the best kombucha (home brewed) and took two cans for the road.

    Lovely first impressions of Cuzco - beautiful cobbled streets, lovely square but oddly quiet elsewhere. More incredible street art too!

    A looong walk home, as our street “Avenida Don Brosco” is a long windy one that doubles back on itself…. Almost walked up to Saqsaywaman (hoping to visit another day). Not such an early night as planned, but hoping for a lie in and a good rest before we start the trek on Saturday.    Read more

  • Emma Harvey-RobinsonPeruEmma Harvey-Robinson

    Introduction to Ancient Inca

    August 18, 2023 in Peru ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    After breakfast overlooking Cusco and the mountains from the stunning terrace, we made our way up to “Saqsaywaman” (unfortunately nothing to do with Sexy women as the name suggests!!).
    Ended up buying a ticket en route instead that gained us entry to 4 fabulous ancient sites (and taxi transfer between). Quenqo , Puka Pukara, Tambotamchy and Saqsaywaman - a beautiful array of temples and Inca ruins with amazing views across the city and mountains.

    In trying to plan a self guided visit to see Rainbow Mountain after the trek, we then tried to find the bus stop. The bus system is an absolute chaotic enigma (see photo for “bus timetable” I.e a blank frame). It was a long slog in the heat, and employing our best google-translate Spanish, we were unsuccessful so decided to get some lunch and evaluate after.

    Food choices today could have been “baked Guinea pig” or “alpaca sandwich”, but instead opted for quinoa soup (squash soup for Rach) at Jack’s, then onto find San Pedro Market. A lively hub of hustle and bustle selling colourful garments, pan pipes, street food and everything in between!

    At 5.00 we had our pre-trek briefing (very exciting!!) It’s going to be 80km over 5 days cumulating in Maccu Picchu - more on that as it unfolds... We then tried to find some veggie food. After almost 29,000 steps AGAIN we were exhausted, and accepted that empanadas are never veggie here. We found a cafe to grab a sandwich, then headed back to pack and shower - our guide Felix is picking us up at 4.10am tomorrow! Wi-Fi will be limited on the route, so will be updating more footprints on our return 😊    Read more

  • Emma Harvey-RobinsonPeruEmma Harvey-Robinson

    Let the Trek Begin & a Breathtaking View

    August 19, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    The alarm painfully went off at 3am for a 4.10 pick up! Boarded the mini bus full of excitement and quickly realised we are likely the only morning people of the group and stopped cackling and whooping on the back seats.

    After a beautiful 1.5 hour drive watching the light fade in over the Andes, driving through tiny mountain villages and listening to the faint jaunty Spanish music playing from the front, we arrived at Mollepata (2850m) for a buffet breakfast, followed by a bumpy ride up to Challanancha (3800m) to start the trek!

    Amazing views whilst trekking, initially of the snow capped Humantay mountain, then as we approached our “Sky Camp” the Salkantay mountain Came into view. Felix (our guide) told us the mountains are very spiritual and respected in Peru and mean a lot to Peruvians, symbolising protection and strength.

    Still surprised how out of breath the inclines made us (blaming altitude not fitness). Also got to know some of the other 6 trekkers in the group - from UK, USA and Brazil.

    On arrival at the campsite, we settled into our dome. The views from inside were incredible - seeing the snowy peaks and glaciers from our beds an experience like no other.

    Gorgeous Lunch (pumpkin fritter, roast potatoes, rice, quinoa soup, avocado salad etc), and a little siesta; we hiked to Humantay Lake. This was a steep ascent of 300m, but absolutely worth it. Swift descent admiring the horses grazing below, then a rest before tea at 5 (meeting the rest of the trekking team - horseman, chef and assistant chef) and dinner at 6. Lovely food and finishing again with a traditional mint tea.

    The temperature had already started to drop outside….Emma almost cried with happiness when the chef brought everyone a fleecy hot water bottle to go to bed with after tea. We were provided with super thick sleeping bags, blankets, pillows and really comfy beds; this combined with Rach’s great idea to wear tomorrows trekking outfit under PJs were all a recipe for a good nights sleep to set us up for tomorrow’s trekking adventures!
    Falling asleep under the stars, but so comfy and cosy was really special.    Read more

  • Emma Harvey-RobinsonPeruEmma Harvey-Robinson

    “The Inkas Made Me Do It”

    August 21, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Woke up at 4ish - nipped out to the loo.
    Came back and got snuggled back into sleeping bags for another hour. The stars were so bright through the glass domed roof, and we used the “Sky Guide” app to work out what we were looking at - the brightest stars were Jupiter and Orion’s Belt. We were lucky enough to see a shooting star, well Rach saw 1 more than Emma (devastated).

    So, onto the trek. At this mornings briefing the team name was born - “Paddington’s possy” (funny misunderstandings of possy to the Non English speakers of the group.)

    It was a challenging day - 12 hours total. Started with an ascent to Salkantay pass which took us 3 hours and to our highest point on the trek - 4630m. Salkantay mountain sits an an impressive 6271m above sea level, and translates as “Savage Mountain”.

    At the top we learned from Felix that there is a total of 26,000km of the Inka trail across South America, much of which is unrestored. We completed a ritual with cocoa leaves and stones as a marker of respect to the mountain.

    We then proceeded a 3 hour descent to our lunch spot, then a final gruelling 3.5 hours down to our site for the evening.
    Wow was it worth it though… the team had been upgraded from Andean Huts to some more sky dome/hut hybrids (usually for premium trekkers!) - en-suite huts at the rear and a gorgeous domed front overlooking the Andes. Showering all the dust off was the loveliest feeling ever!!

    The trek day was good - Good chat, nice vibe, some funny catch phrases in our tired, dusty delirium - for example “the inkas made me do it”, and Rach almost ruining a guy’s holiday by correcting him on his Condor photos, which were actually Andean Geese. Also asked Felix about healthcare/occupational therapy (or the lack of) in Peru which was really interesting.
    As we progressed, there was a gradual transition from high snowy cool, dry dusty rocky, to luscious green humidity. Tomorrow we will venture to the edge of the Amazon jungle.

    We ended the day, as usual with a tasty buffet tea and agreeing the plan for tomorrow. I’m sure we’ll sleep well in our comfy beds tonight!    Read more

  • Emma Harvey-RobinsonPeruEmma Harvey-Robinson

    “Hey is That a Condor!?”

    August 22, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Felix awoke us again at 5am with cocoa tea (though Emma had already been awake since 3.30 star gazing!)
    Set off to hike a little worse for wear, Rach with her likely cracked rib from ju-jitsu last week, and Emma with her gammy hip and now swollen ankle (lesson learned to tie boots nice and tight). After the medication round we soldiered on from Collpapampa, following the stunning Urubamba River through La Playa and beyond.
    Along the way we learned about the foliage, farming and fruits of the Amazon, some of which can only be found in Peru. We tasted amazing native tomato, one of the many types of passion fruit (Grenadian), baby strawberries, etc.

    We took a bus ride up to a coffee plantation where we helped with a demonstration - from picking, de-shelling, roasting, grounding and finally tasting the best “Gesha coffee” in Peru (entered in competitions).

    After lunch, we took a bus trip to hot springs absolutely hilarious! Ranging from deep discussions about politics, learning about USA / Brazilian culture and laughing until we cried! Each time a large solo bird was spotted someone would shout “hey is that a condor?!”. The springs themselves were lovely, nestled amongst the mountains but with plenty of changing/showering facilities - it was nice to stretch off our aching legs.

    Over dinner Felix begun to share some stories of his experiences - from murders on hiking trips, to saving colleagues, his childhood experiences were captivating. We took these up to the campfire afterwards, where a few of us stayed up swapping stories and laughing over a beer.

    We fell asleep listening to the distant buzz of crickets in the Jungle Domes, resting up ready for our last big hiking day of the trip tomorrow.    Read more

  • Emma Harvey-RobinsonPeruEmma Harvey-Robinson

    “Bamos” to Macchu Pichu

    August 23, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Early wake up again as we had breckie in the hotel then boarded the bus for the 30 minute ride up to Machu Picchu. We entered the site around 7.30am and were treated to postcard perfect views of the ruins and sunrise at the sun gate, with incredible views over the mountains.
    It was a calm place with peaceful energy mirroring (mostly) its inhabitants.
    Throughout the tour, which moved from outside the walls, to the upper then finally lower part of the city; Felix taught us much about the indigenous Quetcia people and their 14 Inkas (leaders). He explained that many books say that Machu Picchu functioned as a temple, others a university or observatory, and the latest investigations suggest a place of learning nearest to the Inka Capital, Cusco.
    Most of Machu Picchu’s expansion took place after 1434 after the 9th Inka leader, and not only is the ancient city itself a protected UNESCO world heritage site; but also 32 hectares of its beautiful surrounding area.

    The native people were revolutionaries in farming, agriculture and astronomy; and did not trade with money, but skills. They believed gold to be tears of the sun, and silver of the moon, and reserved these for adorning their spiritual temples, which showcased their love and respect for the earth. They gained independence from Spain in 1821, by which time Christianity had been introduced and indited into society, merging with the spiritual practices followed prior to this. Many people and scholars suggest true independence was not gained until 1969 when the then president returned land that had been taken by the Spanish to the native people, and there can still be tensions between those of native / Spanish descent.

    An amazing memorable morning, followed by a bus back to Aguas Calientes for some lunch then a wander around the market for some souvenirs.
    We then checked for “earrings, necklaces, GoPros” etc then our final
    “Bamos” to the train station to board the beautiful old school train to Ollantaytambo, a bustling transport hub.

    Finally a bus ride back to Cusco, where we said goodbye / “Tupa Nan chis Cana” (until I see you again) to our new friends - Parker, Jessica, Naian, Natalia and Felix. We checked into our Hotel - Paradis Suite, and spent the evening relaxing.    Read more

  • Emma Harvey-RobinsonPeruEmma Harvey-Robinson
    1

    The Inka Trail & First Glimpse of M.P

    August 23, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Emma had her first “full night” sleep despite the 5am wake up from Felix again (must have been the beer!). Rach made use of the anti sickness tablets - all morning meds taken with inka kola of course. At breakfast we said goodbye to the chef and assistant chef, who made a lovely “welcome to Maccu Picchu” goodbye cake.

    Then, a challenging 3 hour uphill hike, which we were rewarded with the most incredible view - our first glimpse of Manchu Picchu mountain and the site of the ancient Inka town we’ll be visiting tomorrow. Felix has told us about other Inka (or Quechua) sites that are equally as interesting, that have not yet been fully excavated or have good infrastructure to welcome tourists yet, like “Choca kirao”.

    We reached our first viewpoint, which was a campsite, and bought a couple of coffees to keep us going for the 3 hour descent to come. We sipped them admiring what we deemed the most incredible landscape either of us had ever seen - the rolling Andes, Macchu Picchu, and snow capped peaks.

    On the way down, we rested to hear some insights and stories from Felix in a restored Inca village building.
    Among many interesting things, he told us there were no horses in Inca times - they were re introduced when the Spanish arrived in around 1530. Felix showed us a “Kipu” (messenger device) which is yet to be decoded, and told us of how the Shamen (spiritual individuals) are called upon to heal people’s mental health e.g. phobias, PTSD, etc (no health provision for this).

    The descent was very painful on Emma’s hip and swollen ankle, despite copious amounts of ibuprofen and some Brazilian caffeine fuelled paracetamol. She opted to take the train from Hydroelectrica to Aguas Calientes to save any pain from the last 10km. Rachel continued the hike and the two were reunited at Hotel Royal Inti with some Inca Cola. That’s 60km walked in 4 days (70km for Rach!)

    We later met the group for tea and had a relatively early night in preparation for our big day tomorrow - visiting the ancient ruins of Machu Picchu.    Read more

  • Emma Harvey-RobinsonPeruEmma Harvey-Robinson

    Starstruck in Cusco!

    August 24, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    After a much needed 9 hours sleep and catch up on the Wi-Fi, headed out to the Salkantay office to book rainbow mountain trip for tomorrow with Jessica and Parker (our new American buds!)

    We then grabbed a coffee and cake in a chocolate makers together overlooking a small square Plaza Recogocijo - where we later met the group for a trip to the planetarium for a presentation and stargazing.

    Headed for our culture fix at Qorikancha, one of the most significant Inca temples, which was unfortunately stripped of its gold/silver decor and reconfigured into a church during Spanish colonisation; but was uncovered during rebuilding/excavations following an earthquake in the 1950’s.

    Stumbled upon Peru’s first and only cat cafe and stopped for a coffee and a pet, much to Emma’s delight. A chance encounter with a pair of baby llamas in the square then a lovely hot stone massage - an hour for £20 - pretty darn good value!

    A quick coffee and empanada stop, then an amazing, interesting and thought provoking evening at Cusco’s planetarium, where not only did we learn about the 88 constellations, the importance of astrology to the Inkas, and previous cultures but ALSO got to stargaze through the professional telescopes. Highlights included spotting the moon’s craters, clusters near the southern cross, but most awe inspiring - Saturn and its rings!

    Taxi back to the hotel, ready for an early start for Rainbow mountain tomorrow!    Read more

  • Emma Harvey-RobinsonPeruEmma Harvey-Robinson

    Rainbow Mountain

    August 25, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    Taxi pick up at 4.30am (we were waiting outside at 4am as agreed, working on “Inka time”).

    3 hour minibus ride to the start of the hike. Slept before breakfast stop (lovely buffet at a nicely decorated services), then took in the breathtaking views as we weaved along the dirt clad roads through the mountains. It was a nice ride seeing small communities, grazing alpacas, over bridges - the narrow cliff roads are not for the faint hearted though.
    As we climbed higher the sun got brighter. The peak of rainbow mountain sits at 5,000 meters (Emma made sure to have extra cocoa tea at breakfast despite no scientific evidence for helping with altitude).
    We started the hike at 4,600m - it was a tough 400m climb which took a couple of hours.
    Interesting to hear from our guide Edwardo, that the children in these mountain villages often hike 5/7k to get to school - this exercise combined with a good diet seem like a recipe for ageing well and good cardiovascular health!

    Although it was cool up the mountain, the walking meant we could layer off a little. At the top we were rewarded with amazing views of the many colours of the mountain, the distant red peaks of the valley, and snow capped peaks of other nearby mountains. Loved having our photos taken with a lovely pair of llamas near the top; though it didn’t feel right considering the smell of stir fry llama being offered to hikers…We opted for a snickers and Inca cola, then a steady descent down.
    Emma slept like a log until we returned for our yummy buffet lunch, while Rach re discovered “Like an Inka” song by Neil Young.

    Pretty exhausted returning to the hotel around 3.30 - so relaxation and an early night on the cards!    Read more

  • Emma Harvey-RobinsonPeruEmma Harvey-Robinson

    An Eventful Trip to Ccorccor

    August 26, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Woke up after a much needed 11 hours sleep.
    Plan for the day - get to village to meet Elsa; but First - shopping for gifts for the village. Kate kindly gave £100 from her football team which we successfully spent on footballs, gloves, pumps and cones.
    We caught a parade en route to the shopping district recommended by Felix - very Peruvian - not an Inka cola top in sight!
    The lady in the toy/stationary shop gave us a big hug upon leaving - realised we’d spent around £70 in there.

    We then piled onto a crowded bus. There were 4 seats at the back so we squeezed in as directed between a larger lady in traditional dress with unfamiliar veg sticking out of her bag, and a younger lady listening to the radio loudly (didn’t think we’d be humming along to
    Boyzone whilst cradling our large overnight bag and plastic bag of supplies). As usual the hysterical laughing inappropriately kicked in, when Rach offered the radio lady a sweet, realised she only had enough for her…glanced over to traditional dress lady who looked to be asleep and asked “is manna watching?!”. That was it. Perhaps it was one of those “had to be there” giggles…

    The bus was bound for Chinchero (approx 1 hour) and just outside of Cusco the police stopped the bus to check IDs… we didn’t catch why but we thrusted our passports, only for the policeman and passengers to giggle and respond “nationals only”.

    Once in Chinchero, it’s was surprisingly easy to find a taxi to take us to Corrcorr village - down the very bumpy dirt tracks for around 20 minutes. We arrived safely, and managed to contact Elsa (our host, and one of the head honchos of the village) via the other villagers that were milling around. We were shown to Elsa’s house, where we met her and her son David - very kind and patient people we were so lucky to stay with them thanks to John.

    It was amazing how we managed to all communicate in our broken/ limited Spanish/English and Google translate.
    Beautiful veg stir fry for lunch, then a walk around the village. This was really special, as it was the annual tree planting time, so we helped fill the small plastic bags with compost and pine seed in the vivarium. Rach managed to altruistically re-pop her rib by shovelling and hurling the dirt into an A Frame griddle device, but in true competitive style soldiered on. It was really nice to see men and women working together, older women in traditional dress and hats also. Rachel commented that she liked the hats, and was shortly after presented one to try on. The “tea break”
    was quite different - the villagers sat in a circle and one member poured Chicha (a 1 day fermented maize drink) from what looked like a Gerry can, into a bottle cut in half, which was drunk in turn between chatter and laughter. We were given a cup to try, and it was not dissimilar to kombucha.

    After the drink break, and a warm welcome from Elsa/ the villagers we walked further and helped with some potato planting. We were greeted warmly, and people were happy to teach us techniques and let us get stuck in.
    We then inflated the new footballs and played with David and pals as the sun set over the lake.

    After dark, we headed back to our barn where we spent the night, and did some puzzles and colouring with David and his best friend. Elsa brought us all a delicious garlic pasta soup for tea and David asked to sleep in the barn with us, so Elsa promptly set him up a bed on the floor. With the many beautiful handmade llama wool blankets keeping us toasty, we soon fell asleep.    Read more

  • Emma Harvey-RobinsonPeruEmma Harvey-Robinson

    A Peaceful Awakening

    August 27, 2023 in Peru ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    We awoke in the barn to the sound of the cows, pigs and dogs outside. Couldn’t help but laugh as we scrambled up the steep incline to the outhouse toilet which we needed to flush with bucket. We didn’t mind though as we were expecting a squat toilet like Nepal, so a sit down one was a lovely surprise!

    Elsa and David took us on a walk through village to the local shop, selling everything from typical eggs, bread and veg; to knitting wool, charging cables and hats!
    Back to Elsa’s for what was unanimously the best breakfast of the trip - fried egg sandwiches and delicious mugs of fine cinnamon oats.
    Then, out to the fields to harvest some breakfast for the Guinea pig farm - alfalfa which makes them grow fast, and maize. It was quite emotional feeding them (for
    Emma at least - it was the dogs that pulled on Rachel’s heart strings), though the Guinea pigs had plenty of space, knowing they would be sold for food/eaten was sad.
    We then took some photos of the in-progress building (community space) and beautiful views across the village, lake and valley.

    We asked about buying some locally made souvenirs to give back to the village to thank them for their kindness - Elsa organised for a lady to bring some of her items to the house and we purchased a few beautiful handmade things. Emma is too tall for Peruvian houses - banged her head so many times on the kitchen doorway - probably resulting in mild concussion/ irrational souvenir buying!

    Elsa was an amazing cook and said that when we return (having learned more Spanish /Quetcha) she will teach us. A brief farewell when the taxi pulled in to collect us, then back along the bumpy road to Chinchero, followed by a perfectly timed bus back to Cusco (less crowded than yesterday).

    Back in Cusco we hit the shops like supermarket sweep for last minute souvenirs, then back to the hotel to shower and pick up laundry. A 10 min taxi to Cusco airport to catch our flight back to Lima (we arrived 2 hours early and we’re offered a flight an hour sooner which we accepted). Not only that, we were given extra legroom - bonus!!

    John arranged for Miguel to meet us at the airport again which was lovely. We settled back in Lima after a busy but brilliant couple of days, agreeing that although spending time in the village was really tiring, it was an amazing experience!    Read more

  • Emma Harvey-RobinsonPeruEmma Harvey-Robinson

    “Too much god; not enough Inka”

    August 28, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Rach woke up at 5 again, thanks to the trek reprogramming her body clock. A relaxing coffee in bed, then out to explore Lima!

    First stop, Paddington Bear statue.
    The Uber driver was very confused at the “strange destination”, but we got out and found the little statue (Rachel exclaimed “is that it, I thought it’d be bigger!”). Gifted by the British Embassy in 2015, Paddington looks out over Miaflores and the sea.

    We then decided to stroll down to the seafront, on the way down meeting Sebastian, a young surf instructor. We opted for a lesson and really enjoyed the consistent waves. Rach amazingly stood up and rode the waves like a pro; Emma was just happy kneeling/ falling off like one of the native sea lions, until the last wave when Sebastian made sure Emma rode to the shore upright - amazing feeling!
    We then ascended the steps to a small crepe bar overlooking the coast, and had much needed coffee and crepes to refuel.

    After a freshen up, we headed into Lima’s historic centre, which had a different vibe completely. The central square itself was cordoned off (we were later told by a taxi driver that the president was having an important dinner, which accounted for the big armed police presence - more so than usual). The atmosphere seemed a little on edge, and we had commented earlier on the trip wondering where Peru’s people with disabilities are - they were seemingly all begging in this area.

    As we queued up at The Basílica and Convent of San Francisco, the smell of incense was overwhelming, and people approaching the queue selling trinkets, drinks, flowers. We were told after 10 minutes or so we were in the wrong queue, and moved to the front to buy our tickets for the Catacombs (thankfully…if we’d have stayed in the first line we’d have ended up joining mass!).

    The Catacombs themselves were interesting, as were the paintings/information from the tour guide.
    An interesting Inca representation of The Last Supper - depicting a round table and Peruvian food (a Spanish artist to make Christianity relatable and attempt to win over “the natives”). People were buried there until 1820, after which and to present day only monks get this opportunity.
    The bones took 1-2 years to degrade with a coating of lime to speed up decomposition, leaving mainly Tibias, Fibias and Skulls on view now. The number of burials there is unknown (thought to be thousands), but it is too structurally unsafe to excavate further. Although this was really interesting, we decided afterwards it was “too much god; not enough Inka”, so we hopped in an Uber to the Larco museum to get our Inka fix. Rach was blown away by Uber, which was making sure we didn’t get ripped off zipping around the city.

    At the Larco museum, Rachel loved everything, especially the erotic imagery/ pots/ sculptures on the ground floor. Em found the quipus (messenger device) most interesting, and the many animal sculptures, pots, jewellery (especially the Pumas).

    We hopped in a taxi back to John’s flat via the supermarket, and planned a relaxing movie night. Chuckled away to “death at a funeral” with popcorn and Emma’s Peruvian hot chocolate concoction. Perfect end to another jam packed day.    Read more

  • Emma Harvey-RobinsonPeruEmma Harvey-Robinson

    Last Day in Lima

    August 29, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Both feeling weary, had a leisurely morning (Rach walked Akila). Attempted to get a bus to La Victoria to check out a “crazy shopping area” but the busses were unfathomable for two non Spanish speaking tourists. Hopped in an Uber, and the shopping area was as crazy as promised - pedestrianised streets, blasting out random music, people shouting to sell goods/clothes/curtains/electricals…looked up to see manikins on balconies dressed in early 2000s gear… not a tourist in sight!
    Leaving this area to head across town was grim…the stale stink of urine, “hola chikas” being heckled out of battered old cars… glad to be away we passed some hospitals (advertising MRI scans for 470 soles / £100), gated schools, and a large Christmas shop.

    Made our way through the large China Town gates and moseyed along the busy street lined with card/decoration shops, restaurants. Popped into a dim sum place for a very average meal… with very unhelpful waitress, but enjoyed our Inka Cola as usual.

    Another taxi across town to make our way to Fortaleza del Real Felipe, an Ancient Fort. All signage in Spanish and no Wi-Fi to scan the QR codes, so will need to look up what the fortress, tanks and cannons were about later. Upon leaving, we went to look for somewhere for a coffee, only to be greeted by a ghost area, with a few people that looked like they were out of a zombie film. Some cool murals, but didn’t really feel able to stop, so hopped in an Uber (down a strangely quiet highway along the coast) back to John’s for our coffee. Both feeling like we’ve seen Lima now, the good and the ugly.
    The day was saved by a churro stand - beautiful filled churros with chocolate, coffee and custard.

    It did get much better into the evening though - Rach went to JuJitsu with John (likely further injuring her rib cage) and Emma had a nap with Akila. We then wanted to take John out for a thank you meal - beautiful food at Armonica. Also went to Marcia Reche Park to check out a fiberoptic recreation of the Nazca Lines which was cool. The highlight was definitely our last stop - visiting Kennedy Park… also known as “Cat Park”. There is a group of people that feed/take care of the many cats, who live in the park.
    All in all, enjoyed our last full day in Lima!    Read more

  • Emma Harvey-RobinsonPeruEmma Harvey-Robinson

    Eye Opening Lima, Then Heading Home

    August 30, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Up and packed. Out with John for the morning. First stop coffee at Harry’s (another teacher’s place) then drive to visit a potential social/ research project in Cercado. The aim here is to engage the community in a project / study, to prove that certain food supplements improve anaemia (high chance of anaemia given poor diet/poverty). The teachers spent time building rapport/explaining the idea at a small gated medical centre with their links - positive news one teacher will return tomorrow to discuss further.

    Then we went up the many many stairs where the poorest have built their houses. We were shown a house where the school kids had built the panels and it is now erected into a house. These homes are hard to describe and incomparable to western homes - residents excavate the rock, dig out and flatten a small area. They are extremely basic - concrete floors, outhouse WCs, basic sanitation (giant water buts filled up if the truck can get along the bumpy track). Yet the people didn’t seem to complain, children seemed happy, and there was jaunty Spanish music playing.

    We then picked up a resident from her job at the fish market, tried Chifde - yummy deep friend plantain crisps, and headed to her community. This was on a site where 35 families lost homes in a fire. They are so resilient, and working hard to slowly rebuild what they can, with some support from Johns school/ service projects set up by John and Harry for the kids to experience and contribute in a meaningful way.

    After the fire, the government provided a tent initially, then a small Porto cabin which had to be moved due to disagreements over the land. The government can’t help further, as this would sanction use of the land which has been “adopted” by communities I.e homes here are not legal (but there is nowhere else for the hundreds of families to live, other than these illegal shanti towns on Lima’s outskirts). We met many lovely families with sweet children. Whilst checking on progress and enquiring how to help further, John offered the dogs de flea tablets (some reluctantly) and the rapport was really nice to see. An interesting and eye opening morning, and a lesson in resilience and appreciating what you have.

    We then picked up our things from John’s flat and headed to the airport - flight at 5.30 Lima to Amsterdam (12 hours) - a 3 hour layover (hopefully enjoying this in the lounge if no delays), then a final flight Amsterdam to Manchester.

    Wish us luck for no delays, especially given the recent air traffic bug affecting some EU flights!    Read more

  • Emma Harvey-RobinsonPeruEmma Harvey-Robinson

    Back to Clekhuddersfax & Llabcdefgh….

    August 31, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Home safe and sound! No delays on the 12 hour flight from Lima to Amsterdam, or the short flight back to Manchester. Had a lovely few hours in Amsterdam making the most of the KLM 52 lounge (blown away by the cleaning robots!!).
    Allen picked us up from the Airport, then we said goodbye and made our way back to Halifax and Llangefni after an amazing trip! The only thing left to do… share the Inka Kola love…    Read more

    Trip end
    August 31, 2023
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