• Dutton Diaries
Sep 2016 – Mar 2017

Southern Hemisphere Travels

A 172-day adventure by Dutton Diaries Read more
  • Trip start
    September 16, 2016

    Heathrow Airport

    September 16, 2016 in England ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Early morning start for our adventure to the other side of the world. Started well, woke up to a thunderstorm and plenty of lightning, just what you want for flying! Not to mention the downpour at Heathrow that left us pretty soaked after a run from the car. A five-inch deep pond in front of the entrance left everybody's feet nice and wet for the flight ahead.

    An emotional goodbye to the parents, both at the hotel and the airport, left us feeling a little sad as well as sleepy after crossing through security, but the focus now is on what's ahead of us, a fantastic adventure hopefully filled with amazing experiences!

    Thank you to all who have helped make this happen with encouragement, support and advice. Going to miss you all loads!

    Now for the flight! Goodbye rain, hello sunshine....it's always there above the clouds!
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  • Schipol Airport

    September 16, 2016 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    On the way! 4-hour wait and tiredness starting to set in! Spent the most amount of money on a pair of socks ever as still suffering wet feet from the deluge we experienced at Heathrow!

  • Over the Pacific

    September 16, 2016, North Atlantic Ocean

    Halfway through the flight and it feels like it has been hours already. Rob and Rich are attempting Lord of the Rings marathons...scary that this is doable considering our flight time!
    A couple of movies down now and the novelty is wearing off a little. Plenty of leg room though which is great, although much to mine and Rob's annoyance (we pre-paid for legroom) Richard managed to get his for free on the day...jammy bugger!Read more

  • Tocumen Airport, Panama

    September 16, 2016 in Panama ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Just waiting for the final connecting flight now to get us to Lima. Three very tired travellers who just want to get to bed! Aside from the length of time sitting and lack of sleep, it was a good flight with KLM, good food and service throughout! Think our brains will need a recoup on the beach tomorrow before hitting the jungle.
    Going to stop there as God knows what I will ramble on about with so little sleep...21 hours and still counting.
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  • Miraflores, Lima

    September 17, 2016 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Checked in during the early hours of the morning for some much needed sleep. Safe to say we were out for the count very quickly. The airport customs check was a little difficult, our Duolingo Spanish lessons did not help us communicate with border control and after a lot of confusion and poor attempts at communication, it turns out the KLM flight number we had on our boarding pass did not actually match the one we used. Thankfully it was a quick fix in the end! The taxi ride was interesting, they like to drive fast here and with much weaving in and out of lanes, but we made it safe and sound!
    Morning now and just had some lovely bread at breakfast with some interesting teas.
    Off to discover the town shortly!
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  • Miraflores

    September 17, 2016 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Woke up feeling way more refreshed after a good night's sleep.
    Headed down to the coast for our first view of the Pacific Ocean...amazing! Beautiful view, despite the fog, and the waves look great, clean and straight. Great for watching the locals surf and the tourists try to. Despite much pestering from the vendors we haven't yet taken a dip, maybe in a few days when we return. Lots of people trying out parascending from the cliffs, and getting scarily close to them too! Looks great though, and they're joined by some great looking vulture-like birds of prey that frequent the skies here. And there are little birds too, we even spotted a hummingbird today!

    The sun eventually came out and the fog gave way to even more stunning views. After a wander down the steep hill to the beach, past some interesting statues and Goudi style art, we were first entertained by the misfortune of a fellow beachgoer. He was taken by surprise by a wave and landed face first on the beach. Safe to say we approached a paddle with a little more caution! And so we had our first paddle in the Pacific...lovely, except for the painful walk on the pebbles, and it was much warmer than expected too!

    Crabs came out to play on the pebble beach and it was nice to just sit in the warm sun and appreciate the day and the view.

    Our first proper use of Spanish to order food wasn't too bad and the early afternoon visit to the local Wong Supermarket put our English supermarkets to shame. Relaxing music with cheese, meat and cakes galore! "They're not doing it Wong, they're doing it right!" (only Rich appreciated the wonderful pun!)

    Back at the hostel now before heading to Limas Old Town.
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  • Lima Airport

    September 18, 2016 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Feasted on a lovely rotisserie chicken last night after deciding we were all too worn out for an outing to Lima Old Town. Now another early start at 2:15 am, but with the prospect of getting to the Rainforest this time! Can't wait! Just waiting for the flight and trying to work out how to get some tea and coffee. In what world does a McDonald's not serve tea and coffee!?Read more

  • Lima Airport

    September 18, 2016 in Peru

    So....it turns out that a cup of tea here is mostly milk, with a dash of water and a floating tea bag. Oh and it doesn't even taste like tea.

    Also...Richard is apparently called Richy over here.

  • Iquitos, the Peruvian Amazon Capital

    September 18, 2016 in Peru

    Wow!!! What an amazing day!!

    From flying over the Andes with the peaks bursting above the clouds, to landing with a view of the Amazon River meandering through the forest. Absolutely incredible! The view of the forest as we approached was just spectacular. Trees as far as the eye can see and with the beautiful misty clouds evaporating from the canopy. So lucky to be here.

    Our itinerary had been a bit mixed up and we had to wait for another couple to arrive before heading to the jungle. We were looked after well at the office in Iquitos though, given a room to nap and have a shower if we wanted and then taken on a tour of a conservation centre in Iquitos.

    The centre works hard to rehabilitate and release several species, from tortoises (these funny things like to gather in great mounds and pile on top of each other) to monkeys, but their focus is manatees. Unfortunately, they are being killed for their meat (I would say hunted but they are docile and curious creatures so that's probably not the term to use) and the knock-on effects are awful. Without their grazing the river will starve of oxygen and much more river life would struggle to exist. They had seven babies in quarantine and three in areas focused on readaptation. Here we were fortunate enough to be allowed to get up close and feed and touch the manatees, which was pretty incredible and not something we had expected to be doing in the rainforest! They are so unexpectedly squishy and have the strangest mouths, with soft cheek like pincers to help them grab food. One thing to note though is they have extremely smelly breath! They really are such beautiful creatures though and I cannot understand how anyone could harm something so gentle.

    After this, we drove through Iquitos in the slightly crazy traffic of buses, motorbikes and tuktuks. The colour everywhere is such a contrast to the usual grey and pale cities of the UK, and as we drove through the market on a Sunday you could see everyone out and about enjoying the holiday and shopping amongst the colourful stalls. I wish I hadn't lost the photos from here because the colour and the crowds really were quite spectacular. Also of note, sadly there is a real contrast too between the richer and poorer areas of the city, a gap which is continuing to grow.
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  • Arrival at the Tahuyaou Lodge

    September 18, 2016 in Peru

    We arrived at the lodge after a four-hour boat ride. It should have been a little quicker but we got caught in an awesome downpour and lightning storm, so had to hunker down for 20 minutes or so. Not complaining though, near enough saw lightning every few seconds lighting up the jungle. We voyaged down the Amazon for some of the journey, which was incredible...it is just so so big!

    You know it will be of course because you read about it, but seeing it with your own eyes is something else. The water levels are lower this time of year too, so it gets even bigger. In fact at one point we were looking at what we thought was the bank on the other side of the river, it looked like it was miles away, and then as we travelled further along it became clear that this was in fact just an island in the middle of the river and that, actually, the other side of the river looked like it was basically an ocean away! We found out that during high water much of that island would be submerged.

    We eventually turned down the Tahuyaou River, an Amazon tributary, towards the lodge. This was a much narrower and calmer river, with dense bush and trees either side. I also have to say that aside from the views, this part of the ride was not so pleasant for me. Never have I ever needed to pee so badly with no place to go. After two hours contemplating how I might be able to solve this problem (peeing over the side had seriously crossed my mind) we finally arrived!

    We pulled up to the end of a long wooden jetty which led up to a massive wooden structure on stilts that was the centre. It is incredible to think that during the high water season, you pull up to the entrance at the top of the stairs instead, a good ten metres above the ground. After been shown around the lodge we were taken to our room, an awesome two storey wooden lodge on stilts, with a balcony overlooking the trees to the back of the lodge. The whole place is amazing, lovely beds, really nice bathroom, feels like five star! I'm glad it isn't like some of the proper luxury jungle lodges though, with the stilts and banana leaf roofs, it blends in perfectly to its surroundings.

    Within half an hour of taking in the amazing sounds of the jungle around us, the sound of rustling branches had us rushing outside Richard's room, to see what creature we might find. This was where the whole thing became even more exciting, because the rustling was being made by monkeys!!! MONKEYS!!!! right outside our room in the trees overlooked by the balcony. There were two or three and they were climbing and leaping through the trees, we found out later that they were squirrel monkeys. There really is nothing like seeing them where they belong, free to just leap through the trees across amazingly large distances. They seemingly just fall between leaps, grabbing hold of the next branch they find and then climbing so quickly before leaping again, it's just incredible.

    What a way to begin the trip!

    Next up was dinner, and the buffet was a very welcome sight indeed. A fantastic spread of food for us all, we definitely won't be starving here.

    Next up Rich and Rob found a giant spider just outside the mesh of our room. We asked what it was and someone said banana spider, our guide took a look and was unsure so still non the wiser! Ah well, it's not like a banana spider can kill you in 36 hours....oh wait!

    And now to fall asleep to the amazing sounds of the jungle, whilst we hope it doesn't find a way in.
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  • A quick 'we are alive' update

    September 19, 2016 in Peru

    A bit too much excitement in the jungle to be able to tell you all about it but that is because THE AMAZON IS AWESOME!!!!!!! We have seen poison dart frogs, monkeys (even fed one!), walked through tree trunks of bats, seen bugs and butterflies galore and so many amazing birds, including a toucan!! Night time adventures this evening still to come! - I will write a better report when I get time!Read more

  • Poison dart frog hunt

    September 19, 2016 in Peru

    Today we went for a hike through the jungle in search of the elusive poison dart frogs.
    We started out the day by waking up to the wonderful sounds of the jungle at about 5:30, after a very long and much needed sleep. You wouldn't think you could sleep with the deafening noise of the jungle that erupts after sun down, but it is strangely tranquil and seems to be the perfect white noise. The day started with an incredibly colourful and varied breakfast buffet (the fruit here is so sweet and juicy it might as well be a different species to the fruit we buy in the UK) to set us up for the day. This was followed by a two-hour boat ride to the hiking destination of the day. The boat ride took us a short way along the Tahuyaou River and then on to the Rio Blanca for the rest. It is a small river that may not be there tomorrow, it fluctuates hugely and quickly with the rain. You really notice the density and height of trees changing as you head up this river and towards terra firma (where it doesn't flood). Newly sprung (but pretty big) bushes, small trees and grasses are replaced by towering trees and much more of them. The view was just amazing and it is hard to put into words the feeling of lazing in a small boat, gliding through the jungle amongst the trees, the birds, the sounds. It is just incredible and humbling.

    It felt a little like a scene from the jungle book "look for the bare necessities!"

    We passed an Amazonian village on route and saw plenty of birds, including a kingfisher!

    Eventually, we arrived for the trek and set off through the jungle in search of poison dart frogs. We traversed a precariously placed log that was waaaay to narrow for my liking. About the width of a persons foot, with nothing to hold on to and a lovely little drop below. Rich and Rob passed with ease...I took my time.

    Next up, Rambo style vine swinging over another little crevasse. I found myself a large log to cross over instead (I value my life and had hands far too sweaty to hold a vine) but Rich and Rob made it over in style. We will edit out the first attempt fail by Rob on the video (update: we lost this video so Rob can breathe a sigh of relief - except that he totally missed the landing and ended up swinging and dangling on the vine for a while before being assisted and trying again!).

    So, on to the wildlife...we were so lucky to find three species of poison dart frog, an Amazonicus Poison Dart Frog, a Yellow Spotted Poison Dart Frog and one of the rarest, a Uakari Poison Dart Frog. Beautiful colours and so incredibly small, we owe some much deserved thanks to our guide as there was no way we would have spotted most of them without him (although I did spot one of them chilling on a log!).

    We also saw some amazing leaf-like frogs, and I will never understand how Andy spotted these whilst walking over the forest floor, some were only the size of your little finger nail, and they really did blend in so well with the leafy forest floor!

    We also spotted a cuckoo, a centipede, some cool looking and large ladybugs and a tourist killer bee! - Andy may have been playing tricks with that one. Oh and we also saw some bullet ants (after our guide prodded a nest and they swarmed out!!).

    Just before lunch we headed to a massive fallen tree, its trunk is now hollowed out and it is big enough to crawl through and long enough to call a tunnel. Even better...it has bats living in it!! We were up for the challenge and turned on our torches. Rob was first and I can't say I'm not glad. The first step he made toward the entrance and out flew a few bats right towards him! After a little fright, we all headed through, adopting a crawling squat through the guano beneath, with bats whizzing past just inches away from our faces, you could feel them fluttering by your ears. They were False Vampire Bats and Short Fruit Bats and they were awesome. Loved it...except for the guano. Jess and Anthony, the Australian couple who joined us on most excursions, decided to give it a miss.

    Lunch was amazing, like all the food here, and where better to be eating than in the middle of the rainforest, under a canopy of wooden poles and banana leaves. Our guides cooked up a treat and we ate a wonderfully delicious pot of pork, spiced in delicious juices with some yuka, a potato-like food that was yummy! During lunch, we were also joined by some curious butterflies with beautiful colours and big enough and fast enough to make you jump when they dart past. There was an electric blue and black one that took a particular liking to Rob (a.k.a the butterfly whisperer) but remained elusive to the camera for ages (got him eventually though!).

    On the way back we saw a Sloth up high in a tree, which mainly looked like a big ball of something undefined, but it definitely moved so our eyes weren't deceiving us.

    And then, as if it couldn't get any better, the guides began to shout and it turns out there was a monkey in the trees on the bank. He was a beautiful Woolly Monkey named Coby who had once been a pet, but now lived in the wild. We pulled to the side and he climbed down the branches until he was right above our heads! We fed him bananas and apple and he took them right from our hands, dangling by his tail from the branches. It was incredible and I think the smiles and disbelief on our faces said it all. Such an amazing experience to top off an awesome excursion. Still can't quite believe it actually happened.

    And then... as if we hadn't had a good enough day already, once again we returned to our room, heard the rustle of branches and ran out to find more monkeys!!! We shouted to the couple next door, Anthony and Jess, and we stood and watched as over 20 monkeys made their way through the trees behind the lodge, a never-ending line of swinging monkeys seeming to just fly through the trees. You really can't appreciate their strength and agility anywhere else but the wild, it really is something else and we just stood there transfixed until they were gone.

    After the monkeys passed we stayed out a little longer and Rob spotted a toucan on the tree just outside. We took some great pictures and showed them to our guide Andy, who of course then informed us it was not a Toucan, but a bird that looked a lot like one. Poor Rob was not impressed...however it was still a really beautiful bird.
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  • Jungle night hike

    September 19, 2016 in Peru

    So the thought of hiking through the jungle in the dark was a pretty daunting prospect before we headed out, especially when you are purposefully looking for tarantulas, snakes and scorpions. We donned the jungle wellies, grabbed a torch and a couple of headlamps and headed out, following Andy, our lovely guide, meticulously through the pitch black forest.

    It was pretty amazing to see all the eyes of the spiders and insects reflecting like jewels from our lights. Every single one glinted like a little diamond amongst the trees and undergrowth. It was surprising how large some would shine before you find out it is a tiny spider the size of a fingernail.

    We came across an enormous frog pretty soon in to our trek and honestly it was almost the size of a football. It was a Smokey Eyed Jungle Frog and I just wouldn't have believed it possible for a frog to be this big had I not seen it for myself. Absolutely massive!

    We didn't find any tarantulas which is a shame, but we did spot an orb weaver spider, with a HUGE web. It was right across our route and I feel like it could have trapped a human if it wanted to! Really intricate and amazing, and as far as spiders go they're pretty beautiful. I also got up close to a spider on the ground to take photos, later finding out it was one of the most venomous spiders on the planet.
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