Spain 2013 - Coast to Coast

grudnia 2013 - stycznia 2014

Using the route laid out by Guy Hunter-Watts, we walked 416 kilometers in southern Spain from Maro on the Mediterranean to Bolonia on the Atlantic. Czytaj więcej

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Podróżnik Spain 2013 - Coast to Coast
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- Dzień 1
- wtorek, 10 grudnia 2013
- ☁️ 59 °F
- Wysokość: 25 m
- Hiszpania Iglesia de San Juan Bautista 36.719738, -4.42295536°43’11” N 4°25’23” W
Seattle - Madrid - Málaga
10 grudnia 2013, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F
We are in Málaga! We arrived to sunny, 66 degree weather at 12:45 p.m. Tuesday after a very nice Iberia flight. Madrid was only 25 degrees so we were glad to be continuing on via a short flight. The only time Ned can take off from his conducting duties for Island Sinfonia is during the Christmas break, so we are glad the temperatures seem to be walkable in Andalucia at this time of year.

We figured out how to take the train from the airport into Malaga city itself, and from there it was an easy walk to the Eurostar Astoria Hotel. We forced ourselves to stay up until 6 pm and slept until 3am. Our essential immersion coil, which worked fine at home, doesn't work here, so no hot coffee or instant soups. Tomorrow we will try to get a SIM card for the iPad and monthly service for the old cell phone we used on the bike trip, plus a new immersion coil. Powdered milk would also be nice.

Using our iPad here in Spain is proving to be a challenge; it often won't connect. None of our email accounts will let us send outgoing messages other than Century Tel. We can open Hotmail to read messages, but not Gmail or Yahoo. Another challenge will be how to send photos. Lots to figure out! Czytaj więcej
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Laurie ReynoldsI just got a notice that you posted some new pictures. This is a trip I never saw, and I will enjoy following along.
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Podróżnik Spain 2013 - Coast to Coast
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- Dzień 2
- środa, 11 grudnia 2013
- ☁️ 61 °F
- Wysokość: 26 m
- Hiszpania Plaza del Obispo 36.719635, -4.420236°43’11” N 4°25’13” W
Málaga
11 grudnia 2013, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F
Today was devoted to errands: getting a Vodaphone plan for our old flip phone; Orange SIM cards for the iPads; exchanging dollars for euros; getting a haircut in a small salon on the tree-lined central avenue... The Centro Comercial Larios shopping center was nearby the hotel; we were impressed by its size. In the afternoon, we walked into central Málaga and returned by way of the port and its neighboring park. Czytaj więcej
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Podróżnik Spain 2013 - Coast to Coast
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- Dzień 3
- czwartek, 12 grudnia 2013
- ☁️ 63 °F
- Wysokość: 83 m
- Hiszpania La Caleta de Maro 36.75597, -3.84083636°45’21” N 3°50’27” W
Málaga to Maro
12 grudnia 2013, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F
Playa de Maro, 1.5 km - Apartmentos La Casa del Barrio

We took the early morning Alsa bus to Maro, a tiny village on the Mediterranean and started our Coast to Coast walk this morning. We only did 1.5 km though - just down to the beach below the village and back so that we can say we have truly started from the Mediterranean.. We were the only ones there on this December day.

We are staying here in a big, inexpensive apartment for two days so we can explore the area. Ned and I walked 6 km this afternoon to get groceries nearby in Nerja. On the way, we saw the tremendous Acueducto del Águila, built in 1880 to carry water for irrigation from Nerja to the local sugar refinery in Maro, Las Mercedes. It was so hot we were wishing we could get out of the sun! I am sure we will be longing for those temperatures soon though. In the mountains, it will be cold! Czytaj więcej
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Podróżnik Spain 2013 - Coast to Coast
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- Dzień 4
- piątek, 13 grudnia 2013
- ☁️ 63 °F
- Wysokość: 87 m
- Hiszpania Maro 36.75642, -3.83183136°45’23” N 3°49’55” W
Maro
13 grudnia 2013, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F
Torre Vigia de Maro, 5.8 km - Apartmentos La Casa del Barrio

This morning we walked to the Torre Vigia de Maro, a 16th century watchtower built as a defense against pirates. The view through the avocado tree shows the tower on the horizon. The steep uphill climb was good practice for tomorrow when we will start the actual Coast to Coast route!

This afternoon, Marie and I explored Maro. The tile work around every door in this village is beautiful. We could have taken many more photos. We ended up in the tiny village shop and got a few things for dinner. Czytaj więcej
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Podróżnik Spain 2013 - Coast to Coast
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- Dzień 5
- sobota, 14 grudnia 2013
- ☁️ 61 °F
- Wysokość: 295 m
- Hiszpania Frigiliana 36.786239, -3.89587236°47’10” N 3°53’45” W
Maro to Frigiliana
14 grudnia 2013, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F
Maro to Frigiliana, 16 km - Apartmentos Rosamarina

Wow! We thought that since we were so close to the Mediterranean , the trail would be fairly easy, through foothills. Instead, it was a rugged trek through the Sierra de Almijara. We went over four passes with descents at my limit to negotiate. Lots of loose rock and steep drops on a narrow path led us into the Chillar Gorge. The entire walk was absolutely beautiful, with crossings of the Río Higuerón and stops at the passes for snacks and by the water for lunch.

It took us nine hours to cover the sixteen kilometers! We had to call the manager of the apartments where we are staying twice to let him know that we would be arriving later than planned. Then, just before reaching the village, Marie fell from a steep bank near the water catchment area and twisted her knee quite badly. We are hoping the swelling will go down overnight. Czytaj więcej
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Podróżnik Spain 2013 - Coast to Coast
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- Dzień 6
- niedziela, 15 grudnia 2013
- ☀️ 59 °F
- Wysokość: 322 m
- Hiszpania Palacio de los Condes de Frigiliana o El Ingenio 36.791881, -3.89585836°47’31” N 3°53’45” W
Frigiliana
15 grudnia 2013, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F
10 km (7 km on C to C route; 3 km around town) - Apartmentos Rosamarina

Ned and I walked out the first few kilometers of the Coast to Coast route to Competa this morning. Tomorrow morning, we have arranged to take a taxi to where we left off (where Camino Pedregal turns off the MA 5105) so that tomorrow's walk will be shorter for Marie. She stayed home this morning to rest her knee, but this afternoon felt good enough to explore the narrow, flowered streets of the village, some not even wide enough for a car. The street layout of the village reflects its Muslim origins, as do the acequias that brought water for flower and orchards. Frigiliana is often named as one of the most beautiful villages in Andalucia, so getting to see it in today's warm sunshine was a special treat. Czytaj więcej
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Podróżnik Spain 2013 - Coast to Coast
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- Dzień 7
- poniedziałek, 16 grudnia 2013
- ☁️ 54 °F
- Wysokość: 635 m
- Hiszpania Almijara 36.832814, -3.97309236°49’58” N 3°58’23” W
Frigiliana to Cómpeta
16 grudnia 2013, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F
14 km (starting at Quatro Caminos) - Hotel Balcón de Cómpeta, bungalow
A great day with a surprise ending...

We took our prearranged taxi to the end of the paved road at Quatro Caminos; that saved Marie's knee from 4 km of uphill. Then it was down to El Acebuchal, across the Rió Patamalara, past Casa de la Mina, and up a long climb to the Puerto del Collado pass where there was even a bench to enjoy the view. The sunshine and the mountain scenery were superb, We reached Cómpeta by three pm, but when we checked into the hotel...no passports! The last time we used them was when we checked into the apartments in Frigiliana. We are really hoping they are still in the manager's copy machine, but there is no one answering the phone there. A frantic search ensued on the internet for a bus route that would get us back to Frigiliana, but no luck. There is no bus between the two villages. It seemed we would have to take a taxi back there tomorrow to retrieve the passports.

But late in the day a welcome phone call came in. The manager at Apartments Rosamarina still had them in his office. He had started to hand them to us during check-in and then turned around to get us keys and got distracted. At the time, I was too tired after nine hours of walking to notice that they were not in my hand. He is bringing them to us tomorrow. That is a huge relief. Czytaj więcej
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Podróżnik Spain 2013 - Coast to Coast
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- Dzień 8
- wtorek, 17 grudnia 2013
- ☀️ 54 °F
- Wysokość: 631 m
- Hiszpania Almijara 36.833053, -3.97461436°49’59” N 3°58’29” W
Cómpeta
17 grudnia 2013, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F
Alvaro brought the passports to us around 11 this morning. What a relief! It was so nice of him to drive them here as the road is slow and twisty.

Ned and Marie spent the morning exploring Cómpeta while I stayed at the hotel to wait for the passports and to try to find lodging options to continue beyond here because the one hotel in Sedella has closed. I had emailed several casa rural owners before we left home, but none of them are currently renting. So I curled up in the reception room of the hotel (no wifi in our bungalow; the hotel is having wifi problems), and searched and searched. Finally I found a B&B south of Sedella that agreed to pick us up in the village and return us the next day when they do mail runs. Czytaj więcej
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PodróżnikSuch wonderful memories.
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Podróżnik Spain 2013 - Coast to Coast
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- Dzień 9
- środa, 18 grudnia 2013
- ☁️ 57 °F
- Wysokość: 583 m
- Hiszpania Canillas de Albaida 36.846191, -3.98781136°50’46” N 3°59’16” W
Cómpeta to Canillas de Albaida
18 grudnia 2013, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F
Cómpeta to Canillas de Albaida, 3 km - Hotel Posada La Plaza

This morning's walk was a short stroll between Cómpeta and Canillas de Albaida along an almost level promenade with railings. The path goes through irrigated terraces with avocados, prickly pear, agave, olives, almonds, and even an ostrich or two! We met a friendly man with a horse on our way into the village. He and his companion struck up a conversation with Marie and generously explained various bits of the horse's trappings.

Hotel Posada La Plaza is in an old nunnery right on the square with atmospheric rooms. The school kids below our window are practicing for the Christmas play!

It is supposed to rain here today...but no snow! We have to walk tomorrow in any case. With the Christmas holidays coming up, we've had to make reservations ahead, and so, have to stick to a schedule. Czytaj więcej
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PodróżnikAll my old haunts and familiar faces ❤️
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Podróżnik Spain 2013 - Coast to Coast
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- Dzień 10
- czwartek, 19 grudnia 2013
- 🌧 54 °F
- Wysokość: 696 m
- Hiszpania Sedella 36.861647, -4.03362836°51’42” N 4°2’1” W
Canillas de Albaida to Sedella
19 grudnia 2013, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌧 54 °F
Canillas de Albaida to Sedella, 11 km - Finca Duende

We had another great walk today in spite of a rain shower mid-morning. We started out dropping steeply down from the village to cross the Río Cájula on a Roman bridge. We then climbed up the other side on what a plaque in the rocks identfied as a calzada Romana. Some of the next parts parts were really steep, but the elevation gain gave beautiful views of Maroma, the highest peak in the range. The rain lasted just long enough to cool us off and stopped as we came to the village of Salares. We continued on to Sedella where we warmed up in a bar while waiting for our ride to Finca Duende.

Our Dutch and German hosts, Heike and Christian, are very generous, not only picking us up, but also fixing a selection of delicious tapas for our dinner. We can hardly believe our luck in finding such a nice place. There was a huge storm after dinner with wind and rain raging outside as I write. Thankfully we are snug inside our little house with a log fire rather than still out on the trail.

Note added after the trip: The route to Sedella went through Salares when we walked in 2013. It has since been changed to enter Sedella from a trail to the northeast rather than by the road from the southeast as we did. Czytaj więcej
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