• Elaine and Ned

Spain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla

We're walking from Almeria on the Ruta del Argar to the Parque Natural de Cazorla where we will pick up the GR 247. A map of our route is here: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1ERMUl_n9lASIh2n-8TJlr3A7HcK49SM&usp=sharing Les mer
  • La Platera: Hornos el Viejo

    23. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    Today was the first day in 75 days of walking in Andalucia that we had to change course to step around a puddle! It rained all night long and well into the morning, by far the longest-lasting rain we’ve had. Out on our walk, we met two ladies in the neighboring village of Hornos el Viejo who, when we mentioned “mucha lluvia anoche”, went to great lengths to vehemently tell us how good it was that it had rained. I’m guessing they thought we were clueless tourists who didn’t want our walking spoiled and didn’t realize how desperate the residents are for rain.

    The rain brought us some new sights and sounds: snails crossing the road amidst green bursts of moss and an hours-long symphony of birdsong from every turn of the path. In spite of the clouds, we had good views of La Platera from various angles. Our house is just outside the village, set off by itself with a lovely arbor at the back, and of course, the era and the acequia. Like all the cortijos around here, it’s a very large house, built to accommodate multiple generations. I think there are 12 bedrooms in all. These days it is rented out as six separate units ranging from a studio to three bedrooms (but Pedro says we are the only people here since Easter). It’s been a privilege to stay here and soak up the history of a way of life that hardly exists anymore, and with the exclamation point of the rain, quite a fitting last day to our weeks in the Sierra de Segura.

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-plater…
    Les mer

  • La Platera to Úbeda

    24. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    We’ve been to Úbeda three times before on various trips and seen only the totally uninspiring polígono industrial as we’ve rushed from the EuropeCar rental office (to return the car we’ve driven from the Madrid airport to Andalucia) and the bus station (so we can get to the mountains and start walking). This time, we are staying right in the city center so we can see this UNESCO World Heritage site.

    Oh my, what a difference! We used a well-annotated city walking tour track we found on Wikiloc, and it had 21 waymarks for sights to see in just the first three kilometers! It took awhile to adjust to being in a city after the deserted villages we’ve been in for the past month, but then the wonder of the spectacular Renaissance buildings around every corner took hold. It’s such an incredible collection of nunneries, towers, monasteries, palaces, churches, noblemen’s homes with balconies just waiting for Romeo and Juliet, universities, narrow pedestrian streets, parks, gates, and city walls that it feels like being dropped into the middle of a ten-acre museum. Thank goodness we have another day to see the rest! Then it’s on to Cordoba to visit friends, and then to Madrid where we fly back to the US a week from today.

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/ubeda-loo…
    Les mer

  • Ubeda: Exploring

    25. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    We thought getting an early start this morning would guarantee us quiet, deserted streets for admiring the Renaissance buildings on the second half of our Wikiloc route around the city. But we ended up in a (delightful) traffic jam as a result of being in front of a large school at 8:50 with school starting at 9:00. There wasn’t an unoccupied inch of road or sidewalk. Brothers with backpacks; sisters with wheeled packs; dads hopping out of cars parked in front of fire hydrants to grab the hands of children before dodging across the street; moms pushing buggies while urging along stragglers; teens whistling to friends…we just backed up and stood still, taking it all in and missing our own teaching days quite a bit!

    After a morning of architectural enjoyment, we headed to the Centro de Interpretación del Olivar y el Aceite. What a gem! We never knew there were 260 different varieties of olive trees! The displays, videos, and samplings were a real treat after walking in sight of olive groves for over two months. Spain is the olive capital of the world, and the province of Jaén is the olive capital of Spain.

    Thanks to Bazar Fen, our replacement hiking poles are riding home in a duffel, not a mailing tube. Let’s hope the airlines have an easier time dealing with that common shape and don’t lose this set!

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/ubeda-loo…
    Les mer

  • Ubeda to Córdoba

    26. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Our 2.5 hour bus ride from Úbeda to Córdoba gave us plenty of time to reflect on what has and has not worked for us on this trip. A quick summary:

    Worked well:
    - The Tenacious Tape I brought in our mending kit. It repaired the rip I put in the knee of my only pair of trousers when I fell on the second day of walking, and it is still in perfect shape.
    - hand sanitizer for getting pine pitch out of trousers and off of pack surface.
    - Enlightened Equipment sleeping quilts with half-inch baffles - no cold spots
    - bike sun sleeves for me
    - Pacas socks made from alpaca wool - so soft they make walking a joy! Thanks, Diane!
    - Patagonia lightweight fleece pullovers
    - Ibex lightweight wool shirts
    - low-cut Lone Peak trail shoes for Ned
    - low-cut Brooks Divide trail shoes with lace keepers for me
    - the Decathlon poles we bought to replace our Black Diamond poles that BA didn’t deliver
    - super-lightweight EVA sandals (6 oz, $10 from Amazon)
    - Sunday Afternoon sun hat with neck cape
    - Apple Air Tags in luggage and valuables pouches

    Would have been nice to have:
    -fingerless bike gloves for me to protract the palms of my hands when I fell
    - stick sunscreen (it was in the mailing tube that British Airlines never delivered)
    - an ultralight 4 oz daypack for grocery shopping and walks around town. Could double as a stuff sack for the quilts.

    What didn’t work;
    - Tube sunscreen - always messy
    - our Lone Peak 6 mid-height trail boots gave both of us severe ankle problems, although we have loved the earlier versions of this hiking boot and have worn them on many previous trips
    - multi-focal prescription glasses; worked for me before cataract surgery, but contributed to my falls on this trip
    - long shoe laces without lace keepers; also contributed to falls
    - packing our poles in a mailing tube. Standard luggage would have been easier for the airline to deal with, and maybe they would have arrived at the same time we did.
    Les mer

  • Córdoba: Friends and the Feria

    27. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    We haven’t been to Spain for four years, so there was lot to catch up on when we met Fran, Ana, María, Celia, and Carmen for dinner. By pure chance, it was also the last day of the fair in Córdoba, so after dinner we walked across the Guadalquivir to the fairgrounds and saw the dancing, the 86 casetas, the light displays, and the music, all accompanied by explanations from Fran and Ana as to how the Córdoba feria differed from those in the other provincial capitals. It made for a festive ending to a special day filled with the very best of friendship and kindness.Les mer

  • Córdoba to Madrid

    28. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Ned loves trains, so riding on the brand new Iryo high-speed train from Córdoba to Madrid was a real treat. The train covered the 400 km trip in 2 hours, compared to the 4 hours it would take by car. The bright red Italian-produced carriages can travel at a top speed of 400 km per hour, but the highest we actually saw today was 277 km per hour.

    Our tiny Airbnb is in the multi-cultural section of the city known as Lavapies. Our apartment overlooks a central courtyard, so although all the streets around here are full of traffic and the noise level is pretty high, our own little space is totally quiet.
    Les mer

  • Madrid: Exploring

    29. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    On previous stopovers in Madrid, we’ve visited the Prado and Parque del Retiro, so this time we just wandered the streets trying to get a feel for some of the neighborhoods. Lavapies has small shops catering to many different cultures. Across the street from our apartment is a Vietnamese restaurant, and on the corner is a barbershop with signage in Arabic.

    As we drew closer to the Plaza Mayor, we heard more English than we have heard in the rest of the trip put together - far more! (In fact, other than a few words heard in the crowd on Easter Sunday in Lorca, I don’t remember hearing anyone speaking English up til today. )

    The Mercado de San Miguel was a feast for the eyes with stall after stall presenting artfully arranged tapas. Throngs of people were assembling a tapas lunch by combining their favorites. Most were priced at €1.50 to €10.00. Choices ranged from olive shish-kabobs to caviar.
    Les mer

  • Madrid: Last day in Spain

    30. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Tomorrow we fly back to the US via Paris and JFK, so that makes today our last day in Spain and this our last entry in this journal. We’ve had a great 82 days. The Ruta del Argar took us to places we’ve never seen before in both coastal and inland Almeria; and we were able to walk in all three mountain sectors of the Parque Natural de las Sierras de Cazorla, Segura, y Las Villas in Jaén. Many thanks for the camaraderie here from family, friends, and the people we met while walking. It made the trip delightful!Les mer

    Reisens slutt
    7. juni 2023