Spain 2025 - Malaga province

Maret - Mei 2025
Terbaru
Three areas in the province of Malaga, walking from village to village:
1. GR 92 - Senda Litoral - Malaga to La Duquesa (blue pins)
2. Gran Senda de Malaga - Casares to Ojén (red pins)
3. P.N. Sierra de las Nieves - Monda to Alozaina (orange pins)
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  • Hari 68

    Last walk in the Sierra de las Nieves

    Kemarin, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Today was our last day in the Sierra de las Nieves. Tomorrow we are taking the bus to La Carihuela on the coast, a few train stops from the Malaga airport. We’ll have a few days to do some sections of the GR 92 that we missed in March due to the storms, and then on Tuesday, we fly to Madrid, and Wednesday to the US.

    The Sierra de las Nieves proved to be a great choice for this trip. We’ve gotten to explore eight villages and have had some spectacular mountain walks, especially the day up La Blanquilla, and our ventures into the Sierra Prieta. The March rains caused some trail damage and flooded fords, but the rain also brought a profusion of wildflowers and birdsong that we have enjoyed immensely.

    For our last walk, we chose an easy route that took us north of the village along the Río Real.
    A bridge at the end of the track connects across the river to the singletrack trail we didn’t take yesterday. It joins up with the dirt track we did walk that runs along the west side of the Sierra Bermeja. (We didn’t take the singletrack today either, having seen the damage farther up yesterday.) We also had a great view of the huge scar, maybe 150 feet long or so, where the cliff over the river collapsed and washed away. Whew!

    Ojén has been a great spot for our last village, a mountain town with a touch of seaside flavor. On the weekends, people flock up here from Marbella and fill the squares with lively conversation at the outdoor cafés. The trails are busy with walkers, runners, and mountain bikers. But the weekdays have been quiet and serene, just the right ending for our mountain days.

    www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/ojen-rio-real-21…
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  • Hari 67

    Sierra Bermeja

    7 Mei, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Hurray! We finally found another loop out of Ojén that was as good as the one we walked on Sunday. This one went along the side of the Sierra Bermeja range, named for the red color of its rocks.

    The Río Real carves out a deep valley as it flows down from the mountains to pass by Ojén, complicating access to the village. We knew if we crossed the river by its one bridge this morning that there would be two possible routes back. One was a singletrack trail cutting down an arroyo to cross the river via a tree-trunk bridge. Our luck with those sorts of trails has not been good, nor was it today - more storm damage. The other was a dirt road that crosses the river via a ford, but does not connect with any tracks to get back into the village. Instead, you have to walk on the A-7103, the only paved route leading north out of Ojén. We were afraid this would have a lot of traffic on it, but it turned out to be perfectly fine in spite of the fact that it didn’t have any shoulder at all. Luckily, only one bus came by while we were on it. We knew from riding the bus from Marbella to Monda at the beginning of this trip that the bus occupies both lanes as it goes around the six hairpin bends that allow it to climb up out of the barranco. It beeps twice as it approaches each hairpin to warn oncoming traffic (and walkers!) to get out of the way.

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/ojen-sierra-berme…
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  • Hari 66

    Huertas loop

    6 Mei, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Another easy walk today that took us by huertas and olive, orange, and avocado groves south of the village. There was a path down toward the river that we wanted to take all the way to Marbella, but it was badly eroded by the March storms and is currently impassible. Instead, we watched some men playing boules and then visited the Museo del Molino on our way back. We saw the water-driven millstones that crushed the olives and drained off the 30% of the fruit that is oil.

    Ojén is a conundrum in terms of access to trails. It is the southernmost of the villages on the east side of the Sierra de las Nieves, and the last of the villages for us to visit. The other villages have all had steep but doable access, but Ojen has escarpments on all sides but the west that are too difficult for me to negotiate. Tomorrow we’ll try a route to the SW that I’m pretty sure will work.

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/2025-05-06-06-38-…
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  • Hari 65

    A walk to the polideportivo

    5 Mei, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    The sports arena was not our intended destination, but it ended up being one today. We used up much of the morning interacting with the Wi-Fi technician who came to remedy the problems in our rental apartment caused by the nationwide power outage last week. Then we picked what we thought was the shortest way to the GR 249 trailhead, planning to walk south toward the Mediterranean, but to reach it, we had to have a way to cross the busy A-355 north of Ojén. There is an underpass just above the sports center, but the route we took to get there left a gap that was insurmountable for me. Instead, we made our way back to the village, stopping to view a very interesting display about the mining history of this area followed by an even more interesting chat with two men from a pest control company who are going around the village eliminating cockroaches that are living in the town’s drainage system. I’ll spare you the details of that! Suffice to say it’s a big problem.

    www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/ojen-polideporti…
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  • Hari 64

    Puerto de los Carreros

    4 Mei, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    After yesterday’s adventure (narrow ledges, steep drop-offs, too precarious to even think about taking a photo), I wanted the exact opposite for today. That is exactly what we got: wide, smooth concrete or dirt tracks, plenty of space between us and the drop-off, and fantastic views all the way from the Mediterranean and the Rock of Gibraltar to our now-familiar Torrecilla.

    Because it was Sunday, lots of other people were out enjoying the same route - walkers, runners, and lots and lots of mountain bikers. They passed by pedaling valiantly on the uphill leg, and roared by at great speed on the downhill leg. Quite impressive.

    The only snag came at the end of the route. We had turned off on a dirt track and were within a half km of joining up with our outward track when we saw a sign saying “ Peligro. Colmenas” (Danger. Beehives). Well, we thought, we’ve passed a lot of beehives on various tracks in Spain and never had a problem, so let’s not worry about this one. But as we got closer, we saw two men working there, all suited up in protective gear. They waved their arms madly at us, shouting that it was dangerous and telling us to go back to the paved road. We did so reluctantly, retracing our steps and plotting a new route back to Ojén. It worked out fine, but when they passed us in their truck a few minutes later, I wondered if we would have gone through just fine had we arrived at that point after they left.

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/ojen-puerto-de-lo…
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  • Hari 63

    The Tunnel, Part 2

    3 Mei, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Two years ago when we were walking the Camino del Argar, the route passed through a long tunnel that we had to shimmy into through a silted up entrance. The next day, we learned that the ayuntamiento had warned people not to use the tunnel due the danger of possible collapse. So when I read that today’s route had a tunnel under the A route that snakes through the mountains here, I had my doubts. But it all turned out to be easy - short, with a visible exit 0.2 kilometers away, a clear entrance, and signs of many users.

    The bigger problem was the first kilometer of the track out of the village. It looked easy on the map, but I was soon in over my head (literally) because the trail was quite overgrown and right on the edge of a gorge. It then went along an acequia with a tube cemented into its bed, making for some tricky footing, again with the drop to the arroyo directly beside us. I was thrilled when we finally got to a cemented road. That first kilometer took me an entire hour.

    The rest of the walk was pleasant and easy through the Parque Botánico El Cereza (which is more like a forest park than a botanical garden) and back to the village along a nice wide track.

    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/ojen-parq…
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  • Hari 62

    Adventures with the locksmith

    2 Mei, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    The minute the wind slammed the door shut behind us as we stepped into the street to see if we had cell service in our new village of Ojén, I had a panicky thought. “Do you have the keys in your pocket?” I asked Ned. He didn’t, nor did I. So there we were in a new village where we knew no one, with our backpacks and all our gear on the other side of a locked door.

    Luckily, we had our phones in our hands, so I immediately WhatsApped the owner, asking if he lived in Ojén, and explaining the situation. He answered right away that he was on a three day trip and currently 150 km away!

    A lot of thoughts ran through our heads at once:
    -What is the Spanish word for a locksmith?
    -Is there a locksmith in the village? (Probably not; we haven’t seen one in any of the other villages.)
    -Where might the nearest locksmith be? (Probably in Marbella. Ugh )
    -Would a locksmith be able to get here before nightfall?
    -If not, where would we sleep?

    We tried to be calm problem solvers. Good, we had cell service, so we were able to look up the word for locksmith. It’s “cerrajero”. Google then told us that, incredibly, there was a cerrajería in Ojén. No phone number, so would it be open? Google Maps showed us the way, and 10 minutes later we were in front of a very unprepossessing building, but there was a man working outside, an excellent sign! We ventured in and explained our problem to the first person we saw. He called the boss, and she immediately took down our address, and sent us back to our house. Within five minutes a man appeared on a motorcycle with a piece of plastic that looked like a giant credit card. He patiently wiggled it in the door for 5 to 10 minutes, and, whoosh, the door swung open and we were reunited with all our gear!

    We’ll be thinking very kind thoughts about Cerrajería Ojén as we go walking tomorrow!
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  • Hari 61

    Jardín Botánico de Cactus

    1 Mei, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Although Casarabonela doesn’t seem like a likely place to have a cactus garden, it actually has the largest collection of cacti and succulents in all of Spain with 11,000 plants. The collection was started by two botanists who lived on the island of Mallorca. In search of a more suitable climate, in 1 995 they moved to Andalucía where it turned out that the slopes of the Sierra Prieta offered the necessary microclimate. We were the only visitors today, so with the attentive resident cat as our guide, we were undisturbed as we pored over the beautiful blooms on many of the cacti.

    On our return, we stumbled across an Arrabal neighborhood we hadn’t seen before, and ended up spending almost an hour poking around the barrio which preserves the layout of the Islamic portion of the town after the Reconquest. We saw 5 of the town’s 35 hornacinas (niches with Christian symbolism) - which we’ve just learned to recognize as the markers between the Christian neighborhoods and the Muslim neighborhoods after the Reconquest. Now, of course, there’s no religious requirement as to the neighborhood where one can reside, but it does appear that a significant number of Muslim families live in this area. We also saw several adarves (lanes with no outlet that give access to the middle of a block) and a tinao (roof over a street that connects buildings), the first time we’ve seen one outside of the Alpujarra region. It was just fascinating to discover these all on our own without a guidebook or signage pointing them out. Casarabonela definitely has had the best preserved historical landscape of any of the villages we’ve stayed in on this trip.

    www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/casarabonela-jar…
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  • Hari 60

    Qasr Bunayra

    30 April, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Ever since I started planning this trip over a year ago, I’ve been wondering how Casarabonela got its name. It doesn’t seem to fit the pattern of any of the other village names around here. Most of them are short: Monda, Guaro, El Burgo, Ojén (where we are going next). But when we stumbled upon an explanatory sign about the Muslim history of this village, it suddenly made sense. Its name during those times was Qasr Bunayra.

    The maze of winding, narrow streets in all the villages around here clearly reflects their Muslim heritage, but Casarabonela seems to radiate the past more than any of the other villages. The alcazaba (fort) still visually dominates the town; the medina (nucleus) is clearly delineated; and when we wander into the arrabales (outskirts), we feel like we’ve gone back 1000 years. It’s been delightful to discover.

    Today’s main task was to get some necessary paperwork printed up and signed. To do that, we needed a papeleria (stationary store) so we could print up PDFs emailed to our phones. But there is no papeleria in Casarabonela. Ned turned to the ayuntamiento for help, and they graciously spent an hour trying to figure out how his phone could communicate with their printer. Not only did they they solve the problem, but they also did it all at no cost. So kind.
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  • Hari 59

    Mapping out a new route

    29 April, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    I love poring over the Spanish IGN (Instituto Geográfico Nacional de España) maps. All those little squiggles hold out such mysterious promise. 99% of the time, I’ve been able to combine the information on the IGN maps with a track already posted on Wikiloc that will take us to a desired area. In fact, that’s been true for 46 of the 48 routes we’ve done so far on this trip. There has either been a track that someone else has put up or pieces of several tracks that I can combine that has taken us where we want to go.

    But a few weeks ago from Alozaina, and now from Casarabonela this morning, I’ve plotted out a new route on the IGN map that doesn’t exist on Wikiloc. It’s exciting to do this, but there are lots of little things to watch out for. From Alozaina, we ran into a locked gate that Ned was able to circumvent with a farm track that got us from point A to point B. More common, if you don’t zoom in far enough on the IGN maps, two dirt roads that LOOK like they connect, turn out to have a small break between them. You get there and find out it’s a sheer, uncrossable arroyo or whatever. However, this morning’s stab at a new track worked out perfectly. We were able to make a loop route rather than an out-and-back walk, seeing new things at every point along the way. I briefly read the map wrong at one junction and took us into a tangle of overgrown plants with a steep drop off to one side, but we quickly retraced our steps and got back on a wide dirt track with no problems. And now it’s posted on Wikiloc for anybody else who comes to Casarabonela to follow. Such a satisfying day.

    www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/casarabonela-circ…
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