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- 日428
- 2020年6月26日金曜日 20:53
- 🌙 29 °C
- 海抜: 8 m
サウジアラビアRābigh22°55’6” N 38°51’54” E
Five Months in Jeddah

I never would have expected to stay in Jeddah for 5 Months. To wait for my car to be repaired for 3 ½.
A few times I was told the car was fixed, but then, when taking it for a drive, the gearbox did not switch properly. Or she overheated. So every time it meant, back to the workshop and some more waiting. This was particularly draining as I did not have any means to drive and there was no public transport I could have taken. Luckily Stephen was lent a car, so between him driving, me hiring a car for some days and taking taxis I got around a bit. Otherwise it meant being locked into the compound. We made some excursions to the beach, explored Jeddah.
At the beginning of September, with the beginning of the new school year the German teachers came back from Germany and we had to vacate their houses they generously gave them to our perusal. Stephen and Birgit found a new compound where we then rented a house, and lived together until the end of September.
Short before our move my car was finally fixed. The gearbox and the other odds and sodds. But now the body got some damage I guess when moving the car in the tight space of the workshop. The back door was severly dinted and the left front had some damage as well. I had been thinking for some time to give Lola a facelift. She had some rust in the paint, some dints that I wanted corrected, there were lots of screws and other things attached to the van by the previous owner and I had not gotten around to take care of before leaving; now I had truly enough time to take care of all of this.
So I got Lola dewrinkelt and a new dress. Did she look before like a lady in high heels walking in the park, now she looks like the woman she is: adventurous and ready to take on the toughest road.
After the paintjob is finished I am over the moon. She looks great. Full of pride getting I show the car to Steffen when getting home and he duly admires it. I step back to take in the fully beauty of my Lolachen, and… Oh no! I see they painted the solar panel as well. Now I really don’t know should I laugh or cry. I really hadn’t expected the painting of the panel to be included in the body works package. Special offer!
At the end I went back and got the paint removed (“You should have told us not to paint the panel!!!) and against my biggest fears, the solar panel is still working.
End of September, finally we were ready to roll. The horrid Saudi temperatures were about to drop in a months’ time, so we decided to make our way out of the hot city and into the mountains, where the temperatures were considerably lower.
This were at times difficult months, being more or less cooped up in the house, oppressing heat ouside, made venturing out a very sweaty experience. Rex didn’t particularly enjoy being walked in circles around the compound, never allowed off the leash, hundreds of cats (I am not exaggerating, I never saw as many cats in one spot in my lifetime) around he was not able to chase. We all had to fight to keep our spirits up, not knowing when we will ever be able to leave and continue our journey.もっと詳しく
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- 日517
- 2020年9月23日水曜日 12:00
- ☀️ 40 °C
- 海抜: 18 m
サウジアラビアAr Rabwah21°35’48” N 39°11’36” E
Five Months in Jeddah

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- 日524
- 2020年9月30日水曜日 12:00
- ☀️ 35 °C
- 海抜: 76 m
サウジアラビアJabal Tandūb21°35’36” N 39°16’42” E
Five Months in Jeddah

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- 日529
- 2020年10月5日月曜日 6:15
- ☀️ 17 °C
- 海抜: 1,619 m
サウジアラビアGhurābah21°10’42” N 40°34’18” E
On the Road Again

And then the day arrived: we packed up and left Jeddah, heading for the mountains. Had I feared I have lost my enthusiasm this fear was unfounded. It took me a little while to find my swing though, a few days to experience this chest exploding feeling of happiness when behind the wheel consciously coming to realise the extent of my undertaking, the exotic surrounds and the freedom I am able to experience.
It is so wonderful being on the road again, setting up camp for the night, having the freedom to leave the next morning or stay another day. And what I missed the most being cooped up in the confines of the compound, experiencing the boundless hospitality of the Saudis. Being invited for a cup of tea when passing a shop, being waved to when driving past, being asked for numerous selfies, seeing the surprise on people’s faces when they see the dog on the driver’s seat, being invited for a Kapsa dinner. Kapsa is the Saudi national dish, being prepared with chicken, or sheep, or goat, or camel, and rice. The true one pot miracle.
What is very sad though is that I have forgotten all the Arabic I had learned, which wasn’t very much by any means, whilst in Jeddah. Okay, I had studied some Arabic online, however all the courses are in the official language, which is the basis for all the Arabic languages, but not all the words are the same or even similar. So, people are having problems understanding me, my denglish accent doesn’t help neither I assume. There is some work to be done.
Of course, I had to have a stopover in Al Baha, to visit the friends I had made when in this town for two months in spring. They fussed about us as only Saudis can include preparations for a birthday party for Ella, who turned eight.
Now it is up to new frontiers. I wonder what the next months will bring. The international borders will not open before January the earliest. This leaves us plenty of time to explore all the areas in Saudi, previously unexplored by us.もっと詳しく
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- 日539
- 2020年10月15日木曜日 17:24
- ☀️ 21 °C
- 海抜: 1,895 m
サウジアラビアAl Bāḩah20°4’36” N 41°34’12” E
At the Olive Festival

The olive harvest has come to an end and Aziz took us to the local olive festival. This was the First Season of this Festival, it sure will grow over the years. The dancing of the men particularly fascinated me. These men in their thoubs, their white garb, always display such dignified behavior, but here, when dancing their local dance, it appears they remember their fearsome warrior past, bandishing their swords and jumping in the air. Steffen was of course right away included in the dance. And handed a sword. I was of the opinion they were fakes , but was assured, they were the real thing.
Every village had their own dance. This one is depicting the local tribes sending the Osmans packing when they tried to conquer their lands.もっと詳しく
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- 日548
- 2020年10月24日土曜日 13:32
- ☀️ 24 °C
- 海抜: 2,349 m
サウジアラビアJabal Āyah18°50’30” N 42°18’48” E
Cat and Mouse

Here we are on a very nice camp spot in a large park in the mountains around Al Baha. First thing in the morning, when taking Rexel for his walk, I walk past a car, partially camouflaged by some bushes. I demonstratively look the other way, I mean, who peaks into a car, parked in the bushes early in the morning, even in Saudi.
Later, when coming back, I discover another inconspicuously white sedan, just a bit off the road. Later that day, Steffen goes for a walk; when coming back he says, we were spied upon. I think, he’s a bit exaggerating. But when I walk the dog again later that day, here they are again. Hmm!
Next day my German friends are leaving, calling quite upset later in the afternoon, they were followed by a few vehicles. He had tried to shake them off, a bit difficult when you drive a pink Mercedes Benz truck, but he succeeded. I am still not convinced.
The next day on my morning walk I again see somebody parked around the corner. I sneak up on him, from the back, surprise him, and after the normal greetings I put on a stern face and say in my broken Arabic: “I woman, you man. You looky looky. Not okay!” and he, totally thrown, justifies himself: he was just here having breakfast. Yeah, right! But at least he knows, I know.
Later that day Steffen calls me, they were followed again by several vehicles. When they arrived at a police checkpoint, they pulled over, talked to the police, the police set up on a chase and caught one of the vehicles. After completing a vehicle check, they found out these guys were from the diplomatic police and are following us for our protection.
For the next few days, when travelling, a cat and mouse game ensues. We try to loose them, and surprisingly we quite frequently succeed. But then this game gets a bit stressful, so I decide on another tactic and stop those guys. Telling them we wouldn’t really appreciate their following us. That we’d prefer they let us know who they were. It was their duty they are telling me, to protect the visitors to their country. Sometimes, when we are traveling separately, they would stop me and ask, where the big, pink van was. Sorry, I don’t know!
After cold nights we would go and bring them some tea or coffee and something to eat. I start to feel bad for those poor guys who have the boring job to follow us. But soon they would learn, they have to come with 4 WD and fully equipped to spend the night with cooker and tea pots and blankets. And keep unobtrusive distance.
In the meantime, they are not following me anymore. First I thought perhaps I just don’t see them any longer as I had decided to ignore them. But they are really gone. But they are still following Steffen and Birgit. We assumed they are more worried about the family with three children, than a crazy woman with dog. That’s okay by me.もっと詳しく
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- 日549
- 2020年10月25日日曜日 13:45
- ☀️ 30 °C
- 海抜: 1,630 m
サウジアラビアWādī Arah18°58’18” N 42°31’12” E
What next?

As the kids needed to take a nap and I wanted to continue driving, we decided I drive ahead to the Wadi we wanted to explore and check out where we could stay for some days. So I drove on and found this beautiful green Wadi, with a river running through. It was a magical place, most wadis are dry this time of the year and I hadn't seen green and running river for quite some time . I looked for a lovely spot, parked, set up the van and went for a walk with Rex.
He was the happiest I have seen him on a very long time. Running through the water, jumping in and out, happy smiles, fishing sticks out of the water. When I contact S&B to send them the location, Steffen tells me, they were in some Wadi as well when his "escort" tells him, it was very dangerous to sleep in a wadi, as rain in a far away region can cause flash flooding. Well, knowing this from Oz I think about it and feel uncomfortable. I check the weather report, and the radar maps. No clouds in sight, but still... ok. I just roll in the awning, then I can quickly go to higher grounds should water arrive. But then...if I sleep deeply and don't hear anything??? The thought doesn't let me rest, so I decide with sadness to leave this beautiful spot. So I back out... And get stuck in the river sand. Man! Do I get stuck!! My spade, my sand boards...nothing helps! I dig, I shove, I reverse, I dig, I shove, I reverse... the sun goes down, it disappears, it gets dark, darker, darkest and still I dig, I shove, I jiggle forward, backward. Until I realise, (now i am really ashamed, it's not the first time I get stuck after all) I had not locked my hubs!!! REALLY!!! And then it worked. I just had to prune some trees so I could get out without getting stuck some more and badly scratching my new paint.
I slept well, but dirty, that night. I was too tired to prepare a shower.
The next day, I am being woken up by a man who looked like Ali Baba, wearing a turban, an adventurous beard and a kneelength kaftan over his pants, the kaftan being held by a colorful belt with a dagger stuck on his side. And, unlike Ali Baba, a mobile phone on his ear, talking to the police, I assume. What I was doing here? Considering I was woken from deep slumber and being quite struck by this apparition I hardly managed to to find a single Arabic word to explain my presence. But happy enough he disappeared. What a shame! Or was it this woman in bed that caused him discomfort?
Later that day I wanted to take Rexelby for a long walk down the wadi. We are both enjoying this hike along the river, needing to cross it a few times, enjoying the refreshment it offered. Walking along dense shrubbery I suddenly hear hooves galloping and a donkey's neighing and suddenly, out of the dense bushes runs, no, flies a donkey towards me, closely followed by Rex, who loves nothing better then chasing fleeing animals. So here comes this donkey right at me. I just see his eyes, wide open in panic! I try to dodge it! The donkey tries to dodge me and WONK!!! It runs right into me! I go flying! I hit the ground! I don't know what hurt more, where the donkey made contact or the parts I hit the ground with. I move a bit, everything still working, then I sit there, tears from pain running down my face, but I have to laugh ... And laugh. Being run over by a donkey!!
Slowly I make my way back. Rex trying to tempt me with a stick to play with him. You got to be kidding me!? YOU are the cause of this excruciating pain!
Finally the van comes into sight. A car parked beside it. Limping closer, I see that two guys are looking into the van and are trying to open the doors. I call out to them. They sit down on my two chairs. The normal greetings ritual. The guys, late teans, early twenties, sitting down with their legs splayed, check me out from top to bottom. They want to see the inside of Lola. I don't like these guys, don't trust them, so no sightseing today. But you know what, I would like to sit down on my chair, injury you see, donkey... No, they say, we are not getting up. After quite lenghty "discussions" I tell them to leave, but they don't. Now I am getting quite furious, an emotion you should never show in Saudi! This deminishes your position, but what can I do. Where is an "escort" when you need one!
At the end I ring Aziz to talk to them. No idea what they said, but Aziz advises with emphasis to pack up and leave.
So I ended up leaving this beautiful place without having explored the wadi. And there was supposed to be a waterfall as well!もっと詳しく
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- 日555
- 2020年10月31日土曜日 16:02
- ⛅ 20 °C
- 海抜: 2,362 m
サウジアラビアAḩad Rufaydah18°1’30” N 42°52’24” E
In the Land of the Flower Men

On my first Saudi round I have previously travelled through the Aseer Province, in the Arabian high lands. When stopping at a traffic light the driver of the car beside me opened his window and handed me a bouquet of lovely smelling flowers and herbs. I was quite baffled about this, seeing these bouquets in several other cars.
Now, being in this country quite a long time and reading more about it, I learned that this is the province of the flower men. These tribal men take big pride in wearing beautifully crafted and woven flower and herb bouquets on their heads. In the markets in this region, you find stalls where women weave rings of flowers and nice smelling herbs for the men to wear. This is a very old tradition, still in practice today. High up in the mountains villages, so I have been later told by Stephen and Birgit, you can see everywhere the men with flowers on their heads. I unfortunately chickened out to travel deep into the heartland of this area due to the very steep roads and Lola’s tendency to break out in sweat and circumstances I will later come to describe. So I was only able to witness some men wearing those head decorations in the outer regions of the Aseer Province.
Of course, we were given some of the flower rings, the economy version only, which the kids were wearing with pride.
The houses are built in a very distinct style, with horizontal slates mended into the walls, apparently to deflect the rain water from the mud walls. We had the honor to visit a family in their home. This was very different from any home I have been to before: a traditional set up, to keep out the heat in summer and the cold in winter, with the lush and colorful wall paintings typical for this area.もっと詳しく
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- 日561
- 2020年11月6日金曜日 14:09
- ⛅ 30 °C
- 海抜: 493 m
サウジアラビアJabal al Haylah18°30’36” N 42°3’42” E
No more Repairs please!

And then my house battery gave up its ghost. No battery, no fridge, so I need a new one. No problems, I am close enough to Abha so I tell my friends we will meet down (around 2200m) at the coast in Jazan once I am done. But nothing is as easy as it sounds. No deep cycle battery to be had in the region with about 1 Mio inhabitants. After a long search I find a fitting one in Jeddah. OK, they will deliver, it will arrive in 4-5 days. I hang around Abha, drive from here to there and back. Having a lot of opportunities to discover Abha and Khamais Mushait, the neighboring city.
When installing the battery, the pin onto which to attach the accessories brakes off in the hole it is screwed into. Now I have to find a workshop to drill out the screw. I find one, just before they close for the noon prayer. And just as in Saudi fashion, they don’t charge me for this service. Now I am set to go.
I travel down to Jazan, stinking hot down there. I make another traffic light acquaintance, a very nice family who invite me to their home. I only stay with them for a short time, before moving on, as I am still trying to catch up with the Boegers.
I’ve only travelled for 100km at the most, when the next problem becomes obvious. My fridge is playing up. So back to Jazan, asking my new friend Hamad for help. He finds a fridge repair shop and after installation of a new thermostat the fridge is back to working order.
The next day, after promising I will visit him and his family when driving to Najran I am sent off.
The next day or two a stink of eggs fills my car. What is going on now??? It turns out to that my car batteries are on their last leg, and they are fuming my car up with toxic gases. At least this shouldn’t be too hard? And I am right there: in Najran I get some new batteries and am rolling again.
For quite some time now one of my teeth is giving me some grief. I had it checked out in Jeddah, they could not resolve this problem. But when I got into Riyadh a few weeks after my car troubles I needed to resolve this issue. And what is the outcome? I need some root canal fillings and a new bridge and crown. Thank you very much! That means three weeks or more until everything is done. But there is no way of avoiding it, so I will have to arrange my travel routes around my dental appointments. And put my hands deep into my pockets ☹.
Well, that’s how it goes with us elderly ladies. We need some TLC (for you Germans: Tender Love and Care) now and then. And some mechanical work.もっと詳しく
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- 日567
- 2020年11月12日木曜日 15:13
- 🌙 21 °C
- 海抜: 70 m
サウジアラビアSalāmah17°20’18” N 42°33’6” E
Welcome to Saudi Arabia!

Finally I was able to capture it on camera: people passing me, waving, calling out a friendly "welcome to Saudi Arabia"!
There was a traffic jam, moving along very slowly, allowing me to film cars passing me, recognizing I am from foreign lands. Unfortunately I did not capture the woman handing a papercup of Arabian Coffee from her car to me.
I will miss badly you warm-hearted and welcoming people!もっと詳しく
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- 日575
- 2020年11月20日金曜日 16:54
- ☀️ 23 °C
- 海抜: 1,284 m
サウジアラビアMukhaţţaţ al Qa‘şūm17°29’48” N 44°11’30” E
Beautiful Najran

Finally catching up with my German co-travellers in Najran. Najran is a city 30km north of the Yemeni border. Sometimes you can hear the rocket thunder, but apparently, no rocket has hit for a very long time.
As my friends had left I drove to the undeveloped outskirts of the park as I thought I would go undetected by police. However not soon after I got there a police car stopped and he tried to send me away “as it was too dangerous, I could be hit by a rocket”. After a few discussions, he asked me if I was Muslim. No, it told him (to make things easier), I was Christian. His response still puzzles me to this day: he said, that if this was the case, I could remain here in the park. I am still pondering if he meant, my Christian beliefs would protect me from the rockets, or if it not mattered if a Christian more or less crawled this earth… I will never know.
Visiting or trying to visit the castles, most of them were closed for renovation, and archeological excavation grounds of Najran.
Walks with Hamed, my Jazan friend and his brothers through the old city and their farm with housese built in the traditional style with horses and camels. Their father is the Sheikh of their tribe. Saudi Arabia is a tribal society and each tribe has their own Sheikh. A Sheikh is not a position you inherit, like a prince, or king, but it’s a position of merit. A Sheikh has to have memorized the Koran, as the Koran outlines the laws and rules to be applied. There is no set remuneration for the advice, you pay what you can afford, or deem appropriate for the advice. When there are conflicts in a tribe, property disputes, marriage problems etc you can involve the Sheikh and he will try to find a solution.
This weekend, as on any other weekend the family gathers at his family’s property. At least 40 women and I don’t know how many children in the women’s area, and I am unsure how many men were in the men’s Majilis. Only family members. Many of the women attending spoke English very well, and the conversations gave me invaluable insight into the lives of Saudi women.
My bodyguards, who we had informed of my prolonged stay at this place and went home to have dinner with their families after they had rejected the invitation into my hosts home, gave me an opportunity to have a peak into the men's Majilis: they contacted my host and 11pm as they wanted to make sure I hadn't eloped, and asked to see me, so a messenger was sent to the female Majilis to pick me up. Adult family members cannot simply march in for any purpose, so children are being sent to deliver messages between the male and female areas. After some waiting outside, in the cold, Hamed suggested for the ease of purpose to wait in the male Majilis for another call. This gave me the unexpected pleasure to enter the male sanctuary at this time of day, which is an honour usually not bestowed onto a woman not being a member of the family. But, as everyone was interested to hear my story and ask a myriad of questions, this was a good enough excuse to make an exception.もっと詳しく
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- 日579
- 2020年11月24日火曜日 14:52
- ☀️ 26 °C
- 海抜: 1,000 m
サウジアラビアYadamah19°13’60” N 45°11’48” E
Rub Al Khali, the Empty Quarter

From Najran, along the Yemeni border into the Rub Al Khali, the Empty Quarter, the largest sand desert in the world, encompassing most of the southern third of the Arabian Peninsula, reaching as well into the UAE and Oman. Dunes reaching up to 250m in height. Driving up and down the dunes on well-paved two-laned highways. I of course don’t attempt to venture too far off the roads, only in between the dunes, where the sand is firm and there is no danger of sinking in and getting bogged in loose sand (again!!!). You can travel far on these in-between-the-dunes areas, which provide the most beautiful, remote and scenic camping spots. I now seriously regret the choice of car, wishing to have a full blown 4WD which does not mind digging the wheels into the sand. But, hey, Lola is doing well, for a van of her making.
Along the road, in between the dunes, I find the Germans again. We are trying unsuccessfully to get into the Oroug Mani M’aradh Wildlife Sanctuary, where the extinct Oryx has been reintroduced into the wild, herds of Arabian Sand Gazelles and Ostriches are roaming again. We are not lucky, the only road in this area we find is too sandy for us to access. So, we give up and travel further up the road, where Steffen and Birgit know for another access point to be. Here we learn that you can only access the reservation after prior permission by the Saudi department for the environment. But being in Saudi for quite a while now, we know, waiting a bit may bring results as well. We don’t have to wait for too long and a ranger comes along. After a short chat, we all scramble into his vehicle. And off we go into the wild. And what a ride that was! This guy really knew how to ride the dunes. After dropping a lot of air out of his tires we climbed up the highest dunes, raced along a steep tilted slope around the inside of a huge sand crater, (scary!!!) down the steep valleys, around the corner and up some more steep dunes. And even he got stuck! But as Saudis don’t get out of the car, unless absolutely necessary and don’t dig, he just put the foot to the pedal, steered left right left right…. Until the car decided that’s enough and moved again. (I’ll have to tell Lola that trick). Yes, and we even spotted an Orys; over there, on the faraway sand dune, that white spot!!!
Unfortunately, I put a little damper onto this otherwise so amazing experience. We were allowed to camp in the reservation for the night. Before we went for the 4WD excursion I was asked to leave the dog in the car, which I did. The next morning, I took Rexby on the leash to take him for a walk. The ranger and his superior came racing their car towards me and gave me to understand that he had told me to keep the dog in the car, and I was not allowed to walk him, not even on the leash. I profusely apologized, saying I felt really sorry that I unintentionally had acted against his instructions after he was so nice to us but had the impression, I was not able to fully appease him. So once I had packed up my car, I grabbed a bag of dates, you always have heaps of them in Saudi, as you are permanently gifted some, went to see him to make up, but he just laughed, thanked me and all was forgiven.
And again, you Saudis are amazing!!!! Thanks so much for this unplanned adventure!もっと詳しく
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- 日590
- 2020年12月5日土曜日 12:00
- ☀️ 25 °C
- 海抜: 643 m
サウジアラビアAl Ghadīr24°46’58” N 46°39’14” E
Riyadh

Riyadh
Even when you travel everyday life doesn’t leave you alone. You have to do the tax, worry about health insurance and car registration, all that mundane stuff you wish you could leave behind. And another thing will eventually catch up with you: your teeth demand to be taken care of. There will be no better place than Riyadh to look into my hurting tooth. And low and behold, the diagnosis is I need a new crown, a new bridge and a few root canal treatments. Hurray! Thank goodness I have friends in this city who will take me up for a few days. You will remember the generous family, who last year, offered us stranded travelers their house in Al Baha, where I was able to stay for 2 months. Again, they gave me their helping hand.
So my journeys in the next few weeks, depended on the intervals between the treatments and always led me back to Riyadh. I met some very nice people on these trips with some of those I stayed as well in Riyadh. So the dental nuisance had some very comforting and loving side effects, thanks to Rasheed’s family, Margarita and Osama and Mahmet, and drastically changed my perception of Riyadh. It was not just a big City anymore, but turned into a place with friends who welcomed me with open arms and made me feel loved.
Finally, on the 10th of January I could continue my journey untethered by dental commitments.
もっと詳しく
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- 日594
- 2020年12月9日水曜日 14:35
- ☀️ 23 °C
- 海抜: 621 m
サウジアラビアRumāḩ25°41’30” N 46°54’13” E
The Camel Festival

One big event on the Saudi calendar is the Yearly Camel Festival It is held for two months not far north of Riyad. How lucky am I to be in the region at this point in time, so of course I have to go there and have a look. When approaching, driving through empty landscape, following the signs indicating "King Abdulaziz Camel Festival “, a broad road flattened into the sand turns off the highway. In the distance you can see the entrance arch and huge festival tents erected. Getting closer to the location I pass stalls of all descriptions: camel accessories, carpet makers, fruit and groceries, laundries... well, anything one needs for an extended stay.
My German friends had arrived here two days prior. To meet them I had to drive past the "business district" and follow the sand route lined by a huge tent city and camel enclosures, past camel herds on the road, lively gatherings. An incredibly exotic scenery opens up to me. Whenever I have to stop the car for a camel or what else, I am greeted by people, offered tea into the car, invited to their tents and inevitably photographed.
Steffen had contacted me prior to me getting there and asked me to come to a certain location, doing really secretive. So eventually in this chaos I find him with two of his larger girls, grinning from ear to ear. Finally, he told me the reason for his joy: yesterday he had participated at a camel wrestling competition: he had to enter a rink in which 3 one-year old camels were circling. The challenge to grab one of the animals, who of course run away from you, and to wrestle it to the ground. And that he did: he succeeded to throw over a camel and as price, he won the animal. That’s how the Boeger family became the proud owners of a camel.
Now he was confronted with another challenge: Steffen now intended to lead their price to their truck, for the kids to play with or walk it. For this he needed me and my van, to tie the camel onto the bumper and lead it to their camp. But apparently this you cannot do; as camels are serious herd animals, they will not follow some strange car without putting up a fight. So we had to find another solution to transport the animal to our camping spot on the festival grounds.
Talking to the locals is always a good idea, particularly in matters of camel. They quickly arranged with some truck driver to pick up the camel and transport it to the camel enclosure closest to our camp. To load it they unceremoniously tie up the camel, strap a belt around its midriff, lift it up with a Hiab crane onto to back of a truck and deliver it to their owners. In the discussions with the locals they learn that the kids cannot play with the animal, and as taking the dromedary with them is impossible as well, they have to get rid of it ASAP. But the word spreads quickly, everybody knows of Steffen’s win as this was broadcast on National TV and soon enough the camel was sold for a (hopefully) good price. Steffen would have loved to glow a little longer with the glory of being a camel owner, but he saw reason.
The next day one of the Saudis took me to the camel beauty competition. I was provided with a VIP pass and guided into the VIP lounge, the only woman again in between all the men. After being served a sumptuous breakfast I watched the most beautiful camels of Saudi stroll past the window. But what constitutes a beautiful camel?
Signs of beauty are a big head, a big hump and a long lip. I am sure there were some more criteria, but those I forgot.
After the camel competition I am led to the camel wrestling competition and I can judge with my own eyes the difficulty of Steffen's win. I am sitting opposite a large TV screen broadcasting the event, looking around I suddenly realise the camera zooming in, oh no, that's me, zooming in closer and closer, suddenly getting stuck on me, the men around me hooping and cajoling, I smile into the camera, wave my hand... I mean, what does one do in a situation like this??!! I don't know what's happening, until my Saudi friend tells me, that I have just won the newest Apple Iphone. This came in quite handy, as my old phone is on the way out. Of course this event has to be broadcast as well, I express my gratitude for this win to the king and he Sheikh who has donated my IPhone and sponsored this event.
Later, when walking through the village with the family, we are all congratulated for our wins and invited for dinners and tea.
Ahh! This camel festival. Definitely one highlight of so many of my time in Saudi. So exotic, so exciting, so overwhelming... the atmosphere at the auctions, the smells, the sounds. Impressions of “Arabic Nights”! For hours I strolled across the festival, taking in these impressions. Drinking a cup of coffee or tea here and there, I felt like glimpsing into another world. Absolutely unforgettable.もっと詳しく
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- 日627
- 2021年1月11日月曜日 17:33
- 🌙 17 °C
- 海抜: 309 m
サウジアラビアBuqayq25°19’24” N 48°57’18” E
Invitation to a Bedouin Camp

And in the middle of nowhere I was packed up and swiftly transferred to a Bedouin camp.
Men and women live in separate camps, quite a distance apart. This allows the women to freely move outside the tents without Niqab, do they wish so.
Most of the time I am invited into the men's tent only, which I consider as a great honor. But this time I spent some time with the women as well. What a lively bunch that was! A very enjoyable evening.
As I cannot post pictures of the women, I attached the little video to share the atmosphere and joy with you.もっと詳しく
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- 日639
- 2021年1月23日土曜日 18:19
- ⛅ 14 °C
- 海抜: 135 m
サウジアラビアTuwaythīr25°25’24” N 49°41’24” E
Al- Ahsa Province

Visiting Rashed and his huge family in Al-Ahsa and enjoying again the boundless Saudi hospitality. Another dream coming true: riding a horse in the desert. Doing it without saddle is quite a challenge and I loved it.
Visit in the Jawatha heritage park
And a simple but delicious dinner at home. I thank you so much for your hospitality! You all made me feel at home.もっと詳しく
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- 日641
- 2021年1月25日月曜日 12:49
- ☀️ 22 °C
- 海抜: 139 m
サウジアラビアAl Jubayl25°24’6” N 49°39’54” E
Thank You!

After seven unsuccessful attempts crisscrossing all of Al Hofuf and all the surrounding towns to refill my gas bottle, the heaven sent me some very helpful guys. They took me to their farm and after a few tries and modifications they connected my empty to their full bottle and squeezed some Gas into mine. Good that I don't need to worry about my career as Safety Advisor any longer!!!
Then some friends appeared and they decided to make me even happier by taking me to their workshop and giving my car a service and a good wash. But first we had to have lunch. Off we went to quite a fancy restaurant. After the main course, the owner or employee gave me a guided tour and a long photo session with interview and many more photos with guests and other people ensued.
Finally we were released and returned to our table where I was surprised to find our tea and coffee to still be warm. We continued on to the workshop, where they did the service and the car wash for free!!! And they threw in a spare oil filter for the next oil change on top! Thank you guys from the Lube Masters! You really rock!!!もっと詳しく
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- 日645
- 2021年1月29日金曜日 14:50
- ⛅ 29 °C
- 海抜: 30 m
サウジアラビアAn Nu‘ayrīyah27°36’0” N 48°41’42” E
Falcons, Camels, Goats and Sheep

Going hunting with a falcon. The view of the pigeon needs to be manipulared with some tape so she flies upwards. Once it is released and has gained some ground, the falcon is being sent off. We jump into the cars, the chase is on. The falcon is after the pigeon, we after the falcon. A sandstorm makes it quite hard for falcon, so, to my big surprised he loses the flattering pigeon. But now we have to catch the falcon, so in high speed we race through the sand, through ditches, over dunes, past some camels, across a highway... until the falcon is tired and lands on some structure from where the hungry bird can be lured with some chicken leg.
After that I am brought to the women's camp, not without a short camel ride on the way.
And then the women's camp. What can you say, the women generous warm hearted, always ready to laugh, to party, to sing. Always making you feel welcome and at home and part of the family
Late at night a desert spring mouse came for a visit. I am sure it got some scraps of the bread, prepared just there and eaten like our crepes.もっと詳しく
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- 日648
- 2021年2月1日月曜日 12:32
- ☀️ 24 °C
- 海抜: 85 m
サウジアラビアKing Fahad University Campus26°20’12” N 50°7’24” E
Last Day in Saudi

The end of my exceptional Saudi Experience came too sudden.
Another highlight, this time of the architectural kind, the Ithra Building in Dhahran. I find this building absolutely sensational! Inspired by rock formations in the desert.もっと詳しく
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- 日649
- 2021年2月2日火曜日 18:33
- ☁️ 4 °C
- 海抜: 2 m
サウジアラビアAl ‘Uqayr25°38’50” N 50°12’16” E
Crossing the Border to UAE

I was at Al Uquair beach when we received the message the borders are open again and I had to leave Saudi as the visa had long expired. After getting the PCR test done in Al Khobar/Dammam we left Al Uquair separately in the morning. As I drove down the road along to coast, the traffic got scarcer and scarcer, a sign told me the road would end soon. Well, that’s no news with a highway, the map indicated a road…, the four-laned highway turned into a two-laned road, which after a while turned into a one-laned road, which lead into a track and then I was in the middle of a road-building project, driving in between excavators, huge trucks and anything else that is needed to construct a highway. I quickly turned off the safety advisor voice in my head, telling me I cannot possibly think, I could drive through there, and continued on, asking construction workers for the way, if there was a choice of more than one track. I tried to get in touch with the Boeggers, who had warned me about this mud bit, but hadn’t heard from them since. And somewhat muddy it got, and slippery, but not so bad that it would justify a warning I thought. After a while, following my GPS I found out through this maze of construction tracks. This was another occasion, where a 80km track turns out to take several hours to complete.
But no trace of my friends. I left them a message that I had made it to the road and sent them my location and then I just waited for them. And I waited and waited. It was already getting late when they finally arrived. Totally exhausted. They had gotten lost in the maze of construction tracks, gotten stuck in deep mud, where they only could be rescued by some excavation machine, then in deep and soft sand…. But in the end, they made it. I was very relieved that we hadn’t travelled in convoy.
We arrived at the border at 1900hrs. I would normally avoid border crossings during the night at any cost, but we ran the risk of the border closing again, so we decided to pass.
And at the Saudi custom’s gate already a problem: the number plate of Boeger’s car was not recognized and it took about ½ hour to get to the bottom of the issue. I passed this one without a hitch.
Next stop passport control: Oh, the visa has expired nine months ago? We explain the issue, that due to corona the borders were closed and our visas extended without any formal documentation. I showed the conversations we had via email with “Visit Saudi”, the department for tourism. The friendly Customs Officer (CO in the following) tried to find information about our situation, without success. By now it was 2100hrs and nobody knew what to do. Finally, I had the far-fetched idea to call that Officer at “Visit Saudi”, knowing by now, Saudis work the strangest hours, and low and behold, somebody answered the phone. I don’t know what they discussed, we just waited and waited and 2 hours later we heard the chuck-a-chuck of six stamps and we were ready to go.
Getting to the arrival gate on the UAE side we were greeted by a huge queue of truck drivers waiting in line to get the arrival stamp. After queuing a short time with all the kids in tow, a CO approaches us and takes us into a special office, where we were processed quite quickly.
Off we went, to the customs gate. Knowing that the Emirates charge a fortune for the import of dogs, €400, I wanted to smuggle him in unseen. I had given Rexelby some sleeping pills, and hid him under a blanket on my bed. The customs officers were checking my paperwork, and the VIN number, which is under the dog’s front seat. Everything fine here I thought when one of the COs wanted to look into the van. He checks it quickly but then unfortunately lifts the blanket I had covered Rex with. Bugger!!! No stamp for me! I have to go to the veterinary.
Still in Saudi, I went to get a document completed, as required for entry into UAE. The officer there had told me he wouldn’t know the form I had downloaded from the appropriate UAE internet site, but told me, they would issue me with one they normally use for this purpose.
So, after a 10min criss-crossing the Border area, the vet at the UAE side told me, this document was not valid and made me complete another online form, which I now have to get signed off by a Saudi Veterinarian. On the Saudi side. In the middle of the night? I was sure, he had gone home by now? No! He just had a falcon coming through his office, just signed off by the Saudi Vet. I have to go there!
So back I go, to the customs guys. Telling them, I had to go back to Saudi, to get the form signed off. Oh no, I need a letter from the vet, confirming I had to pass. So, all the way back to the Vet, who issues me with a small handwritten note. On the way back, I think this whole thing turns out to be ridiculous; a solution has to be found.
At the customs area, the main customs guy is awaiting me with 3 other officers. They ask me again, why I need to get across, and I tell them, to get the documents for my dog checked. “And all of that, even though I don’t have a dog” but they had seen a dog before!? “no, you must be mistaken. Take a look by yourselves!” I open the door and show Rex to them, who is still sleeping. “Do you see a dog n here?” I ask them. “No, I don’t see a dog!” the three officers say. The Main CO says: “but I see a dog! You have to get your form signed of.” grrrhhhh “Any signature will do?” “Yes, just come back with a signature.”
So off I go. Again, to the passport officer, past all the waiting Pakistanis, then into the Saudi side. Here I am stopped by another officer who saw me passing a few hours back and of course wonders, what I was doing there again. I show him the Vet’s paper, but of course, he does not recognize a paper like this. He has to ring a superior about what to do with me. After 10 minutes he lets me pass.
Finally, I get to the Saudi border. What do I want? I need to see the vet. He makes me sit in the waiting room. After an hour I go to see him again, asking what the problem was. He cannot find a Vet. Please sit down and wait. Another hour goes by. No Veterinarian.
On the other side of the office, I see a long queue of people getting documents stamped. Didn’t the CO say, any stamp will do? Now I line up, my document in hand. When it is my turn, I ask him to put a stamp on the document. No! he cannot do that! I explain my situation, but still, it is a No. In my desperation I make him an offer: He goes to the loo, leaves the stamp sitting on his desk, and when he comes back, the deed will be done, he doesn’t know anything, he has never seen me. He must have thought there was less risk involved in putting the stamp on my doc than being accused to leave the stamp unattended, open for misuse, but which way ever, he set the stamp on my document.
With my stamped document in hand, I drive back to the UAE, past the waiting Pakistanis I get another entry stamp into my passport, and make my way to the CO. Triumphantly I show him my document. He studies it, and says, he has never seen a stamp like this before. Where did I get this from? I just shrug my shoulders, don’t know? But you told me to just get the document stamped…. No, you still have to go back to the vet.
So back into the car, I drive around the customs building and back to the Vet. But just there, where I would have needed to turn left to get to the vet, there was a sign saying, EXIT. So, thinking “Bugger that!!” I swung my steering wheel around and drove towards the exit. There was another stop, for the insurance. I did all the official stuff and was just about to pay when I felt somebody tapping my shoulder, and a very gentle voice saying: “The Veterinarian is the other way! Let me guide you there!” on the way to the vet, the under CO profusely apologized, he was ordered by his superior, to catch me; he knew, that I was trying to get through the border for 6 hours now, he was so sorry for the inconvenience.
The ordeal was not finished as yet, another 1 hour at the vet. He of course did not recognize the stamp. Where did I get THIS stamp from? Who has given me the stamp? I don’t know, he did not tell me the name. The nice CO: just give her the stamp…. But no, he needed to do it all properly inclusive the 400€. But finally, eventually, I made it.
All in all, it took me 11hours to get from one side of the border to the other. At 7 am I was through. Totally exhausted I just stopped somewhere and fell asleep.
The border closed again, later that day. We just had made it through.もっと詳しく
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- 日652
- 2021年2月5日金曜日 17:19
- ☀️ 27 °C
- 海抜: 87 m
アラブ首長国連邦Wuqnat Sarīj22°58’30” N 53°47’12” E
Dune Bashing

After a gruelling 11hrs overnighter border crossing from Saudi to the UAE and two restful days on the beach we drove deep into the desert Rub Al-Chali to watch those crazy guys driving n the 120m high dune, which is named “ the “Terrible Hill". This hill is set just outside of the Liwa oasis, a semicircle of approximately 50 oasis located very close together smack in the middle of this huge desert.
Soon we got to know some young men who asked me, if I would like a ride. Do I like a ride!!??? YESSS! PLEASE!!! We just had to wait for Rasheed with his Jeep and off we went. We didn’t go the shortest way up. This would have been boring compared to the way Rasheed took me and his friend. The backway was plastered with steep dunes, which made for a far more exciting ride than any Rollercoaster. Rasheed, you are a dune artist.! This ride was quite a thrill!!
Another two things I find quite fascinating:
Rasheed told me he drove 40kms to the dunes not on the road but through the desert. When asked he said he did not use any navigating System, he just knows how to get to where he needs in the desert, after all he’d been living in the desert for 30 years. Considering, that for me the dunes don’t look too different from one another, and in addition they change shape and move I find this astonishing.
The other thing is: here he is driving through the desert, in his open car, and I am sure, sand squirting all around him, as he has no responsibility for a passenger, and his Thoub and Shamagh (my Emirati friends, please correct me if you call your clothes differently) his robe and head dress, are the brightest of white. No speck of dust to be seen. His friends also. How do you do this guys? You always look so smart and clean and I, with my travel clothes always feel like Ashenputtel beside you.
I tried to record the ride, but I had to watch where we are going and so the film contains more dashboard than dune. Unfortunately. So I only attach the downhill ride which was quite uneventful compared to the ascentもっと詳しく

旅行者it's amazing how quick you find friends to experience that country and people .l think the whole journey gives you the roundup or satisfaction in or of your life . have a good homecoming (but not yet , hey ?!)
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- 日662
- 2021年2月15日月曜日 14:35
- ☀️ 24 °C
- 海抜: 12 m
アラブ首長国連邦Dubai International Financial Centre25°12’33” N 55°16’28” E
I Need a Break!!!

I need a break from my van and my dog for a few days, so I decided to book myself into a hotel in Dubai.
Being able to just go to bed, without pulling out boards to extend my bed, rearranging mattresses, making the bed, and in the morning the reverse...
Just turning on the tap for a shower whenever I want to, without heating up water, pulling out my doggy bath, cleaning up the mess afterwards...
After showering, drying myself with a cotton towel instead microfibre. Bliss!!!
Just lifting up the lid of the toilet without preparations...
Turning on the tap, without the thought of saving water...
Taking it slow in the morning, no Rexdog looking at me, expectantly, waiting for his walk, and the same in the evening... (the poor critter is in a kennel).
No pulling in your head when moving around the van, and still knocking it now and then...
No fear of being woken up by police or some ranger, because you cannot stay here for the night...
No dirty dog bringing in sand and mud...
Sorting out all things internet without interruptions or low speed...
Just having space to move, upright, behind closed doors...
And the best: strolling through the city, for hours, days, without feeling bad, because the Rexelby is locked in the car...
To sum it all up: probably just having a normal life for a few days.
...more pics to followもっと詳しく
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- 日665
- 2021年2月18日木曜日
- ⛅ 30 °C
- 海抜: 21 m
アラブ首長国連邦Al Ḩazaywah25°31’36” N 55°39’40” E
Chance Encounters

It can be quite astounding where some encounters can lead to.
Already in Saudi a few weeks back I ran out of gas an nobody could refill my cylinder. The guys in Al Ahsa tried, but didn't get too much in. As you might remember, this lead to a chain reaction of events.
So soon after I ran out of gas again, and the same pursuit for gas repeated itself . Always the same response. Sorry, can't do it.
In Dubai I finally contacted a supplier who wanted to know what I use the gas for, kitchen or BBQ..., and he promised he would meet me at the hotel between 9 and 10pm.
When he arrived he had brought a friend along who is a professional photographer interested in travel and my story. So this started a chain of events, in the end resulting in the video, to which I have attached a link below. Not made by the photographer, but an Indian team of travel bloggers. The video by the photographer is still to follow.
To watch the video on YouTube, just search for travelista_by_santos and you will find it.
Be patient, I'll make an appearance after about 5 minutes, but until then you get some footage of Lola and Rex.
...and just in case you wonder...my gas problems are resolved...for nowもっと詳しく
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- 日672
- 2021年2月25日木曜日 17:00
- ☀️ 27 °C
- 海抜: 45 m
アラブ首長国連邦Ar Ramaq24°58’8” N 55°18’14” E
Touring the UAE

Thanks for this video Shan #asn_fotografia
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- 日686
- 2021年3月11日木曜日 11:49
- ☀️ 30 °C
- 海抜: 271 m
アラブ首長国連邦Wādī Ḩalf25°16’41” N 56°16’11” E
Difficult times

End of January we were told to leave Saudi ASAP. All borders still being closed, the only country we could leave to was UAE. Still unsure, to ignore the request and remain in Saudi, or to exit to the Emirates and hope for the Omani border to open, we decided to make it across the border.
The border crossing was a story for itself, about which I will write another time.
Since then we are in the UAE. Still no borders opening. Iran cannot be hoped for as the Corona figures are on the rise again, the Oman has tightened its borders as well, so there is no escape.
Now I am totally stuck: the summer is approaching fast, already the temperatures are rising above 30o C. I am feeling discouraged, not being done with my travels, but knowing, I cannot stand another summer cooped up in an apartment, not having anything to do, not being able to walk Rexelby, with dog restrictions everywhere in this state. These long and many months of not knowing where to go, the uncertainty, missing friends and family really cost me lots of strength and positivity. As long I was in Saudi, I kind of felt at home, I had friends I could turn to, who I know would support and help me if needed; there was a lot to see and explore, but this is different here in tiny UAE. I am starting from scratch. I am tired of traveling without purpose and goal! Some clever mind once said something like: “A journey is not the destination, but the way!” I suppose this person didn’t travel in times of Corona. Or perhaps talking about the journey to finding yourself? Well, I thought I have found a lot of myself on this trip so far, but now I am in danger of losing it (pardon the pun). Before this happens, I have to get out of here!!!
But where to!!??
Turkey: I could ship the car and fly in with Rex, but how can I then move on? At the moment you can leave turkey through Bulgaria, but this can change any day. And then? And when the visa expires? Turkey might be better now than UAE, as not as hot, but summer there doesn’t tickle my fancy neither.
Back to Saudi? Not possible, borders closed, they don’t issue any visa at all at the moment.
Home to Australia? Not possible. I cannot enter the country with Rexelby due to quarantine restrictions.
OK, Germany it is: I’m getting all exited: About to book a shipment for my car, I send an enquiry off to the German consulate asking if I am allowed to import my dog. In their response they don’t even relate to my enquiry: I am considered a tourist. Touristic travels into Germany are not allowed at this point in time and therefore they send me a big NO. Now I am getting quite desperate, longing to recuperate in the embrace of family and friends. I need to find a way! There is only one option I have, letigimate, and close to my heart avenue, however this has still the possibility that I get rejected at the airport and sent back. Tough bikkies! The problem is only Rex: he would then be in Germany and myself I don’t know where. I know there will be some generous friends that will take care of him should I need to leave him behind.
I decided to leave Lola here, I just need to find a place where she can wait for us, in the shade, until some borders open. Then, at a later point, I can continue my journey maybe not as planned, but anyway.
Who would have thought that things become so very difficult, particularly on an emotional level.
もっと詳しく

旅行者Ich wünsche dir viel Glück mit deiner Weitereise. hoffentlich sind irgendwelche Grenzen bald offen. Wer hätte das gedacht das es so lange dauern könnte. Ich habe deinen Reisebericht sehr genossen. Alles gute!