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Australia to Europe
  • ElisaLola Rexelby
  • ElisaLola Rexelby

Australia to Europe

29th of April 2019 until 1st April 2023 Meer informatie
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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger
    2

    Al Ula, Madain al Saleh, Hegra

    9 maart 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    After a few long driving days we finally reached Al Ula, the base camp for the sights in Hegra.
    Saudi never ceases to amaze me. The diversity of the landscape is totally unexpected and the landscape surrounding this town is outstanding. Crops of big round mountains and out of the earth rock formations. This looks really promising.
    After enquiring about the archaeological sites it was confirmed that the next day will be the last until the site reopens in October and that we only can view the tombs with an organised tour.
    Still, we could not believe this so we decided to take a trip through the desert and see if we can get to the sites without masses of people surrounding us. We drove for a few hours and not really getting far not even due to very difficult sandy terrain but again and again hit the fence surrounding the area. We had still fun driving through the desert in my car together though!
    So next morning we left the dogs behind and jumped on a tour bus.
    “Hegra it is the largest conserved site of the civilization of the Nabataeans south of Petra in Jordan. It features well-preserved monumental tombs with decorated facades dating from the 1st century BC to the 1st century AD. The site also features some 50 inscriptions of the pre-Nabataean period and some cave drawings. Hegra bears a unique testimony to Nabataean civilization. With its 111 monumental tombs, 94 of which are decorated, and water wells, the site is an outstanding example of the Nabataeans’ architectural accomplishment and hydraulic expertise.” (Text copied from UNESCO website)
    And it was worth the while. These tombs, carved into sandstone, well preserved were absolutely fascinating.
    But what took my fancy just as much was the Al Mayara Concert Hall outside of Al Ula, a huge mirrored cube set in the middle of the desert, reflecting its surrounds, ever changing with the sun moving in the sky.
    I will let the pictures do the talking.    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger

    Al Ula

    11 maart 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We stayed in Al Ula for a while: the hole in my fuel tank opened up again and needed repair, the dogs needed immunisations and certificates and Jasmin and I just needed some rest.
    But of course the rest never happens. My planned day of rest was destroyed by a big and unexpected gust of wind which grabbed my annex and folded it over the roof, braking several rods and attachments but thankfully not destroying the metal roof it was attached to. But that was the end of my annexe. What a shame with the summer approaching..
    Whilst waiting for Lola's tank being fixed I met a young man who was taking me on a little Al Ula tour. We visited his parents goat farm and drove in his crazy car on top of the mountain overlooking Al Ula.
    One day Jasmin left with Ziggy to make her way to the UAE. Rex misses his little friend.
    I further explored the vicinity, having this stroke of luck by meeting some German co- travellers. As Corona was poking up its nasty head by now, we decided to stay in touch to support each other by exchanging information during these uncertain times, before separating again to each follow our planned routes.    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger
    1So close and yet so far...Rexby can be so cute!!!

    Stranded

    18 maart 2020, Gulf of Aqaba ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Corona. The international borders are closing. Where to go?
    In Al Ula I had met a few German Overlanders and we were discussing this matter, tossing up options: returning to the UAE, finding our way home this way. But where is my home in the first place? Some were thinking of shipping out to Sudan, leaving to Jordan. And then what? And then of course there is the option to stay put in Saudi; or one could perhaps leave the car here and fly home to return when borders reopened. But what will then happen to the vehicles in the mean time? They can only stay for the duration of the original visa? Or can't they? So many questions.
    I decided to stay in Saudi.
    And then, one morning, I woke up and knew, I want to wait it out in Egypt, at RockSea, my little paradise in the Sinai, with my cousin and his family. So I took off the 500km towards the Jordanian border. Rexel needed another course of vaccination before crossing the border into Jordan. I had to wait some time for the veterinarian who was just attending his afternoon prayer to reopen his practice. Once we were done it got too late to make it through the border.
    I had just found a place to stay for the night close to the border when I received the news that Egypt has closed its borders, and the ferries from Aqaba to Egypt have been cancelled.
    All right, destiny has spoken had different plans with me! I have to remain in Saudi for only the heavens know how long.
    So here I am now. On the Red Sea. On the Saudi side. When I look across the sea, I can see the mountains of Sinai and RockSea, where I now long to be. I remember very well, when I was at RockSea I used to look across the Red Sea, longing to be able to cross the water and visit Saudi. Now I am longing to be on the other side again, this time in Egypt. As we know the grass is always greener.... I just hesitated a little too long.
    After some phone calls with the Germans we decided to meet up again, once it gets hot and rent a house together, with a really good AC.
    I had travelled through a lot of countries for nearly a year now, never really having time to rest as there were forever visas running out, and so many things to see. Now I will have plenty of time to rest, to digest my impressions, to reflect on my experiences, contemplate a where from here, where to with the years ahead. And pick up on my woefully neglected Find Penguin entries
    And I hope to learn some Arabic, so I can communicate with these lovely people. My new found lady friends gifted me today with an Abaya. How shameful that I can only thank them with a little "shokran"!    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger
    My partners in crime

    Without a Clue

    24 maart 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    From yesterday on Saudi is on partial lockdown: curfew from1900hrs – 0600 hrs. Only food stores, petrol stations and pharmacies are open. Every town a ghost town.
    Regardless of this time frame I have been asked several times by police to please leave and go home. All Saudis would be at home under these circumstances. I show them my home, some shrug and give the okay, others ask me to move on but not before apologetically offering me some water or chocolate bars, but not offering a solution where I can stay. Out of sight out of mind. So I just move to hide behind another rock.
    Driving through the country I feel like a thief: every police post, man or car giving me a sinking feeling, fearing they stop me. But no, miraculously they all let me pass.
    I am now reunited in the desert with some German overlanders. I am feeling so much better in their company, not needing to cope with this stress by myself.
    Initially we intended to stay in the desert, well-hidden and safe for a few more days. This morning however we received the news that Jordan has declared full lock down, no more walks to the grocery store. Food rations being distributed to the houses. Wow, this can happen to us as well! Then we are well and truly stuffed!!
    So what to do? Renting an apartment is out of the question with Rex, houses seem to be too expensive, the holiday rental apps are not really a help. So tomorrow we will make our way to the mountains, hoping we will find some property we can stay on, idyllically situated under some date palms would be nice for us romantics, somewhere where we can stay with our vans or at least park them up there as well, with some water and electricity. Where we can wait until the whole mess blows over, whenever this might be. And in reach of food distribution should this become necessary. There just has to be a place somewhere that we can rent for an affordable price. And that keeps us cool over the hot months to come.
    We will be leaving tomorrow in search of our safe haven, wherever this may be. And hopefully, find it.    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger

    Saudi Hospitality unsurpassed

    25 maart 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    This evening we decided to leave the next day in search of our safe haven, we prepared for an early start the next morning before going to bed.
    Just when I turned off my light to go to sleep a car pulled up and honked the horn. Until I got up and put on my abaya Olli met the driver and the discussions started with help of Google translate. Our visitor wanted us to leave immediately, did not really have a suggestion where we should go and we did not see a reason for leaving. A lot of mis- or non-understandings followed, and about ½ hour later the guy drove off.
    Back to bed and trying to sleep.
    My sleep was rudely interrupted by the approach of several cars spilling out some Police and robed civilians. The discussions started again. We were not allowed to be outside during the curfew; we have to go to a hotel; that we sleep in our cars was no accepted reason for staying, and on it went. We were unable to talk our way out of it, so we gave in when they offered us to stay in our cars in front of the local police station.
    We now had to get the cars ready, putting in table and chair, stepping on my abaya, losing the headscarf, really testing my patience at that time of night but finally we were ready to follow them in a convoy to the police station.
    Once arrived there the chief of police was visibly relieved that he had us transferred to a “safe” location. He showed us the facilities, the kitchen, toilet and gave us the complimentary box of water bottles your are handed in this country wherever you go and you can’t say no to.
    Back to bed. But there is one more knock on my door: this time it is Olli, bringing fabulous news: they had asked a Saudi family they had met for a very short time only and asked if they knew some accommodation we could possibly use. 10mins later they received the answer: we can use their holiday residence in Al Baha for as long as we need. What an incredible relief!!! And exactly where we wanted to go to as it is supposed to be nice and cool up in the mountains.
    Up early the next day the plan was to get to Yanbu, do a big grocery shop and then look for some place to stay for the night.
    Once in Yanbu I hit the grocery store, long queues in front, waiting, then donning on gloves and face mask; my temperature is being taken and I am let into the supermarket. I am about to pack up my trolley as I receive a message from Dagmar and Olli that travel ban will be imposed between the different regions of the country from tomorrow on. As we still have to pass through several provinces, I leave my trolley where it is and we rush out of town immediately. We want to travel as far as we can before the curfew at 1900hrs.
    Once it is time to set up camp for the night, we directly drive to the police station and ask for asylum. No probs, over there in front of the school we can stay. Its not a pretty spot, but we are happy to have found a spot where we will not be disturbed after the long day of driving. We did not count on the lack of hand-over information at shift change at the police station. So sure enough, as soon as we were in bed, a knock on my door and the discussions started again. But after some to and fro we were left to sleep.
    The next day, after a long pass from 700m up to 2200m and me fearing Lola’s heat sensitivities, we made it to our holiday residence in Al Baha without much of a problem.    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger
    Rex is guarding the food delivery from a person unknown to us.Where there are Germans, there is coffee and cake.Regard the writing on the sign!

    Creating a Home in Al Baha

    9 april 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Now this is a surprise! A huge house is awaiting us. We can use the ground floor with 3 bathrooms, kitchen, washing machine, a huge garden with trees, which is not a common thing in this country, and a extra little house in the garden, with toilet and carpeted sitting area. What luxury!!! And after the humid heat down at the ocean, we are sitting here in the evenings with socks and jumpers! Wonderful!
    The next day Diddi and Daniela, another German couple that travelled through Africa joined us as well. Now we are complete.
    Finally, after all the frantic activity of the last few days we have the opportunity to clean and repair the cars, to the washing, sort out stuff and, at least we thought, to rest.
    Until our peace was rudely interrupted by an email from the Saudi tourist office that we should leave our contact details should an evacuation be necessary. This made us realise, we might not be able to stay in this country.
    Lots of discussion ensued: if we fly out what will happen to our vehicles? Letters were drafted and sent to consulates to find out the legalities.
    For me the situation is different from that of the Germans: after a lot of enquiry I found out I cannot fly Rex to Australia from Saudi. He will need to fly from another country, but before I can arrange for this, blood needs to be taken for a Rabies titer test, after which we will need to wait for 180 days before I can fly him into Australia. Next option, Germany. No, I cannot fly into Germany as I am neither German nor have a residency status. And fly Rex to Germany with the Germans, and then after 180 days to Oz? No, evacuation flights don’t take any dogs. So, that’s it for me, I will stick it out here in Saudi until some borders open… somewhere.
    In the meantime, we are touchingly cared for. The hospitality and generosity of the Saudis is extraordinary. They do anything in their might to make you feel welcome and happy
    Every morning the gardener provides us with bread and dip and we had to fight hard and gently for him not to bring us some more food goodies, as we really don’t want to stretch the hospitality. Two days ago, a local member of the family surprised us with masses of fruit and vegetables - in addition of the fruit and vegetable we can just pick here in the garden. Health workers were asked by the family to visit and check on our health and providing us with masks and gloves.
    By now the curfew has increased starting at 1500hrs. poor Rex, lucky Elisabeth, only one walk a day from now on!
    None of us want to leave at this stage, but one day we will have to pack up and go.    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger
    Didi made Awais so happy with his goodbye present.Pomegranate everywhere!First pet: Awais is really scared of Rex...Our daily walk...and his daily bathOutside of our paradise

    Where from here?

    17 april 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    After many long and partially painful deliberations my German friends decided it best to leave for Germany. So nearly 4 weeks ago now they took a flight organised by the Austrian embassy from Jeddah. For me flying anywhere is unfortunately not an option: Europe doesn't allow me in as I neither have an European passport nor a Residency Permit. Back to Australia is not an option due to the quarantine restrictions for dogs. I cannot import a dog from Saudi full stop. I have to bring him in from a third country but all borders are closed.
    So I have to stay behind.
    I wave them off early morning in the 22nd April. Black Wednesday!! It was so hard to see them go, leaving me behind!!!
    So for the last nearly 4 weeks I have been by myself. Kept myself busy, had still a myriad of car repairs to complete, some more successful than others. That it is Ramadan doesn't help, people are tired, hungry, don't feel like it. The biggest job is my damaged crankshaft or parts thereof. Communication is of course a big problem. They cannot get the parts in all of Saudi, due to Corona they cannot order from abroad. My car is gone for a few days, which is quite hard, Rex and I miss Lola, and strangely enough, even though you think you are well prepared you always forget to take some essentials out of the car. I mean, she is my house, right?
    When I go to pick her up, thinking they could not repair it, they tell me they have welded it all back together. The noise is gone, everything working and no Rial paid!!! Good on you guys!! Thanks so much!!
    But there is still another big unresolved problem looming: a slipping "clutch". After a lot of deliberation, discussion with friends, by coincident I drop into a garage who specialises in gearboxes. The mechanic checks it out and his verdict is gearbox damage. I had feared that, so it didn't come as a big surprise. But here as well again, no parts in Saudi and no parts can be ordered in. Bugger!
    In the mean time I am keeping busy, doing some other repairs, sewing, cleaning, washing, some gardening, the usual stuff, but unfortunately my neighbours and the gardener are thinking I am lonely and bored and being Arabs, being hospitable as they are, they cannot help themselves, and beleaguer me with daily dinner invitations. That it is Ramadan doesn't help, I cannot go quickly for an afternoon tea, as they fast, and it is horrible for them not to be able to spoil me. Without success I am trying hard to defend myself from too much neighbourly love.
    To make matters worse, I get stuck smack in the middle of some neighbourly dispute. The gardener, who has adopted me as a family member, tells me, the other men was no good, ("Filistin! Filistin!" Later I had to read up in google, i knew the Filistins were mentioned in the Bible; they are the modern day Palestinians) I should not let them in the garden. No good man. Not talk to him. So what am I to do?? Well, I can excuse myself with a pretend sickness, headache or something else.
    I am unable to fully follow his recommendations, I mean, he just rocks up at the gate, brings food his wife has prepared etc. So I receive an email from my host telling me to keep my distance, not to let anyone in. They are worried about my safety. I was kind of set back to my teenage years! But, I am the guest , so no more open gate for this fellow and his family.
    The gardeners family is really very lovely, but no word English is spoken, and as hard as I may try, my Arabic doesn't really stick, so our conversations are quite limited. Even though Awais has a cunning ability to mimic what he wants to express the conversation is exhausting. I am really sorry to say this, apart from being worried to be found breaking the curfew when sneaking across to Awais' I'd prefer to at least now and then have my dinner by myself not needing to smile myself through the evening.
    But then workshops and waiting for my car to be repaired introduces me to mainly young men who speak English. This gives me some time of verbal exchange, time with their families and I have their support when I AGAIN, run into problems.
    But all of this is starting to grind me down. I am longing for conversations with friends, with people who know me, for whom I am not this exotic lady, but just me. I am longing to talk to people who I know, who at least have the same cultural background. Where I don't need to ponder, can I do this, can I say that, how shall I interpret that situation? When after dinner on my way out the door, the Lady of the house presses a 100 Rial note, around $40 in my hand, I resist and put it back into her pocket just to find this money in my bag when I get home. What am I going to make out of this? When I give it back to her, is this a great offence? Why is she doing this? What does it mean? How am I going to deal with this? Why are they not eating the food I bring over? Lots of questions and insecurities that under different circumstances would be very interesting but now are mainly emotionally draining.    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger
    Waschtag
    2My paradise gardenIftar dinner at AwaisAt Awais'Waiting at the Police Station a la VIP

    Alone in Al Baha

    18 mei 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We people stranded in Saud have founded a WhatsApp support group. Only two of its members are still in the country. Apart from me a brave family with 3 children.
    They are in Jeddah at the moment, just moved into a house in a compound with lots of expats. Would I have scoffed at the notion of moving in with a lot of foreigners like me instead of looking for contact with the locals, I am so starved for communication that I jump at Steffen's suggestions of getting a house for me there as well. Again, I never met this man, and he and the other Jeddah people are so helpful and supportive. The only problem I can see is a travel permit as travel bans still prevail due to Corona and that my car has the gearbox problem. So how to get there?
    One of my Saudi contacts makes some enquiries. No problem, he says, the police will help. Yeah, but the car transport? Don't worry! This is what police is there for. But... Just go to the police!
    So today I went into town to the police to get a travel permit to Jeddah. You can complete this permit application on line, but for one is it arabic, and two you need an Iqama number this is the national ID number. After some to and fro finally somebody arrived who speaks English. He is not one of the line police officers, but highly decorated. Still very young! And good looking!
    He compliments me into his luxurious office. There I learn that he has been in Australia for one year, 10 years back. Lucky me! Well, I hope he has had a good time there! I need that now!
    After some more nice small talk he starts completing the application, when he as well gets stuck on the Iqama number. But this problem can be solved as well, we just need to wait for the Captain. He will be there in an hour. So that I don't need to wait in the empty ante room, with possible strange men arriving which could make me feel uncomfortable, I am ushered into another big man's Office. I hope they don't forget me there. It's taking quite a long time, this hour. Enough to write this whole article so far. On the phone.
    To be continued...    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger

    Pinch me

    18 mei 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    So here I am sitting in this office, waiting for the General, when finally the door opens and I get summoned into the sanctum of what I later learn is the highest police official in the province of Al Baha.
    I step into this office, the Director General, that’s his title, an imposing man sitting on his desk. To his right four more highly decorated POs sitting and some other with less decoration on their lapels standing in attention. And here Elisabeth marches in, with at dignified smile on her face and being seated opposite the Director General, DG in short.
    “Salaam aleikum” - “Aleikum Assalaam” - “Kaif haluk?” - “Al Hamdullillah”
    At least I know how to behave by now.
    Thank goodness, as my vocabulary nearly has run out, the DG turns his attention to the dapper Major (or whatever his rank is) asking what he can do for me. A long explanation ensues, DG nods his head, more questions and answers and finally he turns to me and says in a General’s voice of course:
    DG: your car stays here!
    Me, thinking shock horror: No! My car will not stay here!
    DG: Yes, your car will stay here and I will repair it!
    Me, what! Did I just hear this correctly???: - - - - - ah, ah, thank you very much, but apparently there are no spare parts in all of Saudi!
    DG: I will repair your car.
    Me: I am so very grateful! Thank you so much! (If the police needs a part they for sure will get it! He’s my biggest hope!)
    DG: When the car is repaired we deliver it to you (Ghee, don’t even need to pick it up!) and you will get the travel permit to Jeddah at any time you want. And I will get you a room.
    Even a travel permit when the state is in full lock down again after Ramadan. WOW! That’s amazing news and a huge relief for me. I mean, everything is!
    Me: Ahm, this is really very nice of you, but I have a room.
    DG: No, you will get a hotel room.
    Me: I cannot get a hotel room, I have a dog!
    DG: No, you will get a room and we will take care of your dog.
    You can feel he is not used to be contradicted when he voices a command, but my times as Safety Advisor comes into good stead, so I am not too easily intimidated and I fight for me being allowed to stay in my beautiful place. Of course with Rex. And succeed!
    DG: I driver will come and drive you to your home.
    I am telling him I for sure can organise a pick up, but no way, he has organised somebody already (whilst we were talking! I don’t know how he did that, honestly! No surprise he is the DG of the district, with this efficiency!)
    Some pleasantries follow, everybody in the room wants to know, where I am from, how I get here, Alone by car so far, and how old are you! 65! Mashallah!
    Here everyone wants to know your age, a very strange concept for us Westerners but it doesn’t fail to surprise them to see a woman my age travelling by herself and they really bend over backwards to accommodate me in any way possible.
    As an afterthought he asks me if I am in need of money! Is there no limit to their generosity?
    Finally I am told the driver has arrived, I, kind of unable to express my gratitude but thanking again profusely, and I am good byed out of the office.
    Totally stunned I follow the Major who hands me on to somebody else, whom I continue to follow down the stairs. Outside the driver is awaiting and the tow truck is already parked beside my car, waiting for my car keys to be handed over.
    And then Rex and I are chauffeured home.
    In the evening the mechanic contacted me to tell me the same diagnosis as I had before, telling me he now has to order the parts. Lets cross all our fingers, he gets hold of them. Somehow.
    After getting home, letting everything that happened to me today sink in I am totally baffled, shocked by the generosity and preparedness of these people to help me. They really do anything in their power to help a foreigner in need. They go so far beyond anything I could possibly expect, it leaves me speechless, humbled and utterly grateful. They will always have a very special place in my heart.
    Somewhere in our conversation the DG ordered his phone number to be given to me, so I can contact him any time I run into trouble. This is for some smooth sailing through Saudi, hey? Somebody doing the dirty on me – let me quickly call the DG of the AL Baha district, he will sort you out! Oh, I ran through some red light here? You might want to discuss this with my buddy the … Problem sorted! But you know what? This will not be necessary, there will always be somebody to help me out of a situation. Of any situation, I am sure. I am a guest in this country after all.    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger

    Where there is Light, there is Shade

    19 mei 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    From this Saturday the 23rd on there will be total curfew imposed on all regions in KSA. We here in the Al Baha region slipped through the total curfew-net so far, not this time. It will be very strict, going out with permit only for a very restricted time each day (I am not quite sure what the conditions are exactly). My biggest worry are my doggy walks. The boy will go absolutely bonkers if he cannot get out.
    For this reason my Saudi friend Aziz, he is the guy who enquired with the police about the travel permit and told me they will help, and his brother came over today to take me out to do a decent grocery shop, as I don’t have a car. He will not be able to come closer to the curfew, due to working commitments.
    So we done the shop and then went to my place to sit in the garden together and have a nice conversation as normal people do. Man! Did I enjoy this! Two intelligent people to talk to in English! What Luxury! Whilst we were sitting there Awais, the gardener comes in, behaving very reserved and disappears again. We continue our conversation.
    After a while I hear a car pull up outside the gate, Awais is coming back in and motions to Aziz to please come outside. I stay in the garden wondering what was going on, then Aziz’s brother gets up, takes their stuff. I follow him outside. Awais is out there with the brother of the house owner. I just have time to say hello when Aziz and his brother are climbing into their car and Said and Awais are driving off.
    What is going on here!! It already dawns on me: the request not to have any visitors has not only been issued for this “Filistin”, my Palestinian neighbour, but apparently to all males.
    I am fuming, but nobody to direct my fury to. Again I feel treated like a wayward teenager. This is a situation unthinkable and totally unacceptable for Western women! But that’s exactly the point (I guess): I am not in the West, I am in Saudi Arabia. And the Saudi hospitality extends as well to my protection. Even if I cannot fully understand what I need to be protected from, being a sensible and I think as well sensitive person with well developed instincts, the Saudis might see this differently. I am a single woman unprotected in a fenced in yard, behind high walls, alone with two males. As I have been explained previously: when in trouble, for example if I have murdered somebody (don’t scoff, that’s how it has been explained to me) and somebody is chasing me for that reason, I can go to any house and give myself into the protecting hands of that family. Nobody will be able to touch me, the clan will protect me until the law process takes over. I don’t really know what happens if the person I murdered belongs to that clan as well, but I think this fine detail will not have a lot of relevance to my life here in Saudi.
    Therefore: as long as I am guest in this house, I am under the protection of the family. They rather prevent anything from happening to me than needing to throw themselves between me and my attacker.
    Now that I had to think this situation through to write this down, I can better understand what happened today and cope a bit better with this disaster. I just can hope my car will be fixed soon, so I can escape this solitary confinement. And can take my life into my own hands once again.
    PS: After they left Aziz rang me to apologise. For what I am not sure, they have done absolutely nothing wrong. In my eyes. But he might have a better understanding of the situation than I and perhaps have the knowledge of “having done something wrong” in their cultural context. I will ask next time I see him.
    PS: I did not go to Awais for dinner tonight. Had to pay him back, little snitch!!
    And another PS to further the understanding: my traveller friend Daniela told me today, and google helped me to confirm, that up to a few years back the "Vice Squad" controlled the religious observance and morality in the country and immoral behaviour, like a woman being alone with a male she is neither related toor married with could be arrested and beaten. So I am nearly tempted to be grateful for the encroaching behaviour of my hosts.    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger

    A Different View on Independence

    21 mei 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    When I met Mohammed the second time (in the workshop again) he arrived in a Mercedes. Last time he drove me around in a BMW to get the parts I needed for the repair of Lola. When asked, he told me this was his son’s car. But he’s surely not that old that his son would drive a car??? No, his son is 10. Ah, one of those! I have seen some small boys, way younger than 16, driving a car on several occasions. And big cars!!
    Around the dinner table that evening I asked Dawud’s wife if he was teaching her to drive as well, not only their son, that boy. Very small for his age. In a Merc! No, she says, many years ago Dawud taught her to drive, but as she was legally not allowed to drive, she could never really practice and so lost her confidence and interest. Does she not want to get around easier? No, there is no need, Dawud drives her wherever she wants, mostly he does the groceries and all the errands (I started to feel sorry for those husbands!). If she wants to visit friends or for other outings, she takes her driver. Many families use a permanent driver to drive their women. This kind of gets around the men/woman separation whereby a woman would never be allowed to drive with a man not being a member of the family. Drivers somehow don’t fall into this category and women of course always sit in the back.
    When asked what she thinks about western women and their independence she laughs at me: oh, Hamdullillah, she is happy she does not need to work and bring up children, like me, a single mum. That would be too hard and exhausting. Why would she want that?
    Talking about single mums. In another family, I meet one grown-up daughter with a child and no man in sight. It was explained to me that she had divorced her husband and returned to her family, where her parents and her brothers were looking after her. Divorce doesn’t seem to bear any stigma and is not that unusual. Still, my question about children out of wedlock remains unresolved.    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger
    Non-Muslims are not allowed into Makkah
    Jeddah is famous for its roundabout sculptures and statues

    Back in Jeddah

    1 juni 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    ....And, as was to be expected, Lola could not be repaired in Al Bahah.
    Now plan B: move to Jeddah, which is close to 400km away. One of my Saudi friends organised a tow truck, all I needed was a travel permit. Time was of the essence as 2 days later a total curfew was to commence for all of the KSA. Hence back to visit my benefactor, the DG.
    Back in his office he tells me he will now organise for my van to be transported to Jeddah and then he'll help with the repair. I object, organising transport was not necessary, but thank you very much, as that had already been done. The dapper major reprimands me: do I or don't I want the DG to help me? Oh yes, of course do I want! That's how Lola, Rex and me were picked up and driven to Jeddah the next day. For free!
    I just had enough time to say my good byes and have dinner with my friend Mohammed and his family. (He's the one with the large Mercedes Benz for his 10 year old son, who is small for his age. When I asked the boy how he finds the pedals, he said he sits on the edge of the car seat 🤞).
    On the 22 May I moved in at an expat compound here in Jeddah.
    Initially I moved in with the other overlander couple Birgit and Steffen and their 3 children. I enjoyed this lively household and their company very much, but after a few days I had my own house to move in.
    Its a strange world, a parallel universe to Saudi with its western living style and dress codes. There is no need to venture into the foreign, everything you need is here: grocery store, hair dresser and beauty salon, medical services, even a vet and pet store. Several swimming and sport facilities, which I, as smuggled through the security, cannot use, and restaurants, just reopening now.
    I start to comprehend why some Westerners can live in those far away countries, without getting to know and understand the local population. Being locked away in those compounds with no connection to the real world.
    On one hand I am happy to be here, being able again to speak with people, and have some like minded people around me, but I miss Saudi, its charm, its people, the many smiles and friendly words, the chaos. Once I have Lola back, we can continue to venture out. If it just wasn't so hot, but after all heat has been invented by the Saudis.
    Even though it urges me to get travelling again, I already dread the day I have to leave the Orient behind.
    One day shortly after arriving in Jeddah, the dapper Major rings me, asking if I could send a voice mail to the Emir, praising the services I have received by the DG. Well I don't mind adding an Emir to my phone contacts; the next stop then will be the King, and after that Allah, but him I let rather wait a while. Later I wished I wouldn't have followed that request so promptly, as this lead the DG to forget all about my repairs that he promised to complete. But in the end I had some other nice people finding the right man for the job.
    Today 8/7/20 I finally got news the transmission had been fixed, but we still need some more parts for the shaft. So slowly but surely we are getting back on the road.    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger

    Contraband

    3 juni 2020, Australië ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    On one of my first evenings in Jeddah Birgit pulled out a bottle of wine. What an occasion. She had received it as a present from a German expat on the compound.
    One night we were invited over to another expat. When we entered the house I could not believe my eyes. He had a bar set up, with a wall of liquors, whiskey, a beer tab, wine on display. As one cannot legally buy alcohol in Saudi, he is distilling the alcohol and making all these drinks himself. Brewing beer, making wine. When the panda shops in this area are receiving grape juice, a lot of expats buy up all the juice and make wine out of it. Our friend brought the beer tabs from England. In his hand luggage and built the bar himself.Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger
    Weekend on the beach
    Picnick with FriendsDates and more datesIn the workshopWaiting in the workshopThe floating mosque

    Five Months in Jeddah

    26 juni 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    I never would have expected to stay in Jeddah for 5 Months. To wait for my car to be repaired for 3 ½.
    A few times I was told the car was fixed, but then, when taking it for a drive, the gearbox did not switch properly. Or she overheated. So every time it meant, back to the workshop and some more waiting. This was particularly draining as I did not have any means to drive and there was no public transport I could have taken. Luckily Stephen was lent a car by a Saudi friend, so between him driving, me hiring a car for some days and taking taxis I got around a bit. We made some excursions to the beach, explored Jeddah.
    At the beginning of September, with the beginning of the new school year the German teachers came back from Germany and we had to vacate their houses they generously gave them to our perusal. Stephen and Birgit found a new compound where we then rented a house, and lived together until the end of September.
    Short before our move my car was finally fixed. The gearbox and the other odds and sodds. But now the body had received some damage I guess when moving the car in the tight space of the workshop. The back door was severely dinted and the left front had some damage as well. I had been thinking for some time to give Lola a facelift. She had some rust in the paint, some dints that I wanted corrected, there were lots of screws and other things attached to the van by the previous owner and I had not gotten around to take care of before leaving; now I had truly enough time to take care of all of this.
    So I got Lola dewrinkelt and a new dress. Did she look before like a lady in high heels walking in the park, now she looks like the woman she is: adventurous and ready to take on the toughest road. She is now painted in the colour of the Saudi police cars.
    After the paintjob is finished I am over the moon. She looks great. Full of pride I show the car to Steffen when getting home and he duly admires it. I step back to take in the full beauty of my Lolachen, and… Oh no! I see they painted the solar panel as well. I don’t know should I laugh or cry. I really hadn’t expected the painting of the panel to be included in the body works package. Special offer!
    At the end I went back and got the paint removed (“You should have told us not to paint the panel!!!) and against my biggest fears, the solar panel is still working.
    End of September, finally we were ready to roll. The horrid Saudi temperatures were about to drop in a months’ time, so we decided to make our way out of the hot city and into the mountains, where the temperatures were considerably lower.
    This were at times difficult months, being more or less cooped up in the house, oppressing heat ouside, made venturing out a very sweaty experience. Rex didn’t particularly enjoy being walked in circles around the compound, never allowed off the leash, hundreds of cats around (I am not exaggerating, I never saw as many cats in one spot in my lifetime) he was not able to chase. We all had to fight to keep our spirits up, not knowing when we will ever be able to leave and continue our journey.    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger
    Fairwell Jeddah!
    Finally freedom again!Impromptu invitation for teaAziz preparing Camel KapsaHe had to defend himself after they threw stick at him.Exclusive camp spotKapsa dinnerBeing chauffeured in luxury

    On the Road Again

    5 oktober 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    And then the day arrived: we packed up and left Jeddah, heading for the mountains. Had I feared I have lost my enthusiasm this fear was unfounded. It took me a little while to find my swing though, a few days to experience this chest exploding feeling of happiness when behind the wheel consciously coming to realise the extent of my undertaking, the exotic surrounds and the freedom I am able to experience.
    It is so wonderful being on the road again, setting up camp for the night, having the freedom to leave the next morning or stay another day. And what I missed the most being cooped up in the confines of the compound, experiencing the boundless hospitality of the Saudis. Being invited for a cup of tea when passing a shop, being waved to when driving past, being asked for numerous selfies, seeing the surprise on people’s faces when they see the dog on the driver’s seat, being invited for a Kapsa dinner. Kapsa is the Saudi national dish, being prepared with chicken, or sheep, or goat, or camel, and rice. The true one pot miracle.
    What is very sad though is that, whilst in Jeddah, due to lack of opportunity, I have forgotten all the Arabic I had learned. And that wasn't much by any means. Okay, I had studied some Arabic online, however all the courses are in the official language, which is the basis for all the Arabic languages, but not all the words are the same or even similar. So, people are having problems understanding me, my denglish accent doesn’t help neither I assume. There is some work to be done.
    Of course, I had to have a stopover in Al Baha, to visit the friends I had made when in this town for the two months in spring. They fussed about us as only Saudis can include preparations for a birthday party for Ella, who turned eight.
    Now it is up to new frontiers. I wonder what the next months will bring. The international borders will not open before January the earliest. This leaves us plenty of time to explore all the areas in Saudi, previously unexplored by us.    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger

    At the Olive Festival

    15 oktober 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The olive harvest has come to an end and Aziz took us to the local olive festival. This was the First Season of this Festival, it sure will grow over the years. The dancing of the men particularly fascinated me. These men in their thoubs, their white garb, always display such dignified behavior, but here, when dancing their local dance, it appears they remember their fearsome warrior past, bandishing their swords and jumping in the air. Steffen was of course right away included in the dance. And handed a sword. I was of the opinion they were fakes , but was assured, they were the real thing.
    Every village had their own dance. This one is depicting the local tribes sending the Osmans packing when they tried to conquer their lands.    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger
    In an old palast
    Visitors for breakfastHiking with Mohammed

    Cat and Mouse

    24 oktober 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Here we are on a very nice camp spot in a large park in the mountains around Al Baha. First thing in the morning, when taking Rexel for his walk, I walk past a car, partially camouflaged by some bushes. I demonstratively look the other way, I mean, who peaks into a car, parked in the bushes early in the morning, even in Saudi.
    Later, when coming back, I discover another inconspicuously white sedan, just a bit off the road. Later that day, Steffen goes for a walk; when coming back he says, we were spied upon. I think that's a bit exaggerated. But when I walk Rexel again later that day, here they are again. Hmm!
    Next day my German friends are leaving, calling quite upset later in the afternoon, they were followed by a few vehicles. Steffen had tried to shake them off, a bit difficult when you drive a pink Mercedes Benz truck, but he succeeded. I am still not convinced.
    The next day on my morning walk I again see somebody parked around the corner. I sneak up on him, from the back, surprise him, and after the normal greetings I put on a stern face and say in my broken Arabic: “I woman, you man. You looky looky. Not okay!” and he, totally thrown, justifies himself: he was just having breakfast. Yeah, right! But at least he knows I know.
    Later that day Steffen calls me, they were followed again by several vehicles. When they arrived at a police checkpoint, they pulled over, talked to the police, the police set up on a chase and caught one of those vehicles. After completing a vehicle check, they found out these guys were from the diplomatic police and are following us for our protection.
    For the next few days, when travelling, a cat and mouse game ensues. We try to loose them, and surprisingly we quite frequently succeed. But then this game gets a bit stressful, so I decide on another tactic and stop those guys. Telling them we wouldn’t really appreciate their following us. That we’d prefer they let us know who they were. It was their duty they are telling me, to protect the visitors to their country. Sometimes, when we are traveling separately, they would stop me and ask, where the big, pink van was. I am pretending I didn't know, but thinking how on earth can you loose this huge pink truck???
    After a while I got quite used to their presence bringing them some tea or coffee after cold nights and something to eat. I start to feel bad for those poor guys who have the boring job to follow us. But soon they would learn, they have to come with 4 WD and fully equipped to spend the night with cooker and tea pots and blankets. And keep unobtrusive distance.
    In the meantime, they are not following me anymore. First I thought perhaps I just don’t see them any longer as I had decided to ignore them. But they are really gone. But they are still following Steffen and Birgit though. We assume they are more worried about the family with three children, than a crazy woman with a protective dog. That’s okay by me.    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger

    What next?

    25 oktober 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    As the kids needed to take a nap and I wanted to continue driving, we decided I drive ahead to the Wadi we wanted to explore and check out where we could stay for some days. I found this beautiful green Wadi, with a river running through. It was a magical place. Most wadis are dry this time of the year and I hadn't seen green and running river for quite some time . I looked for a lovely spot, parked, set up the van and went for a walk with Rex.
    He was the happiest I have seen him in a very long time. Running through the water, jumping in and out, happy smiles, fishing sticks out of the water. When I contact S&B to send them the location, Steffen tells me, they were in some Wadi as well when his "escort" tells him, it was very dangerous to sleep in a wadi, as rain in a far away region can cause flash flooding. Well, knowing this from Oz I think about it and feel uncomfortable. I check the weather report, and the radar maps. No clouds in sight, but still... ok. I just roll in the awning, then I can quickly go to higher grounds should water arrive. But then...if I sleep deeply and don't hear anything??? The thought doesn't let me rest, so I decide with sadness to leave this beautiful spot. So I back out... And get stuck in the river sand. Man! Do I get stuck!! My spade, my sand boards...nothing helps! I dig, I shove, I reverse, I dig, I shove, I reverse... the sun goes down, it disappears, it gets dark, darker, darkest and still I dig, I shove, I jiggle forward, backward. Until I realise, (now i am really ashamed, it's not the first time I get stuck after all) I had not locked my hubs!!! REALLY!!! And then it worked. I just had to prune some branches so I could get out without getting stuck some more and badly scratching my new paint.
    I slept well, but dirty, that night. I was too tired to prepare a shower.
    The next day, I am being woken up by a man who looked like Ali Baba, wearing a turban, an adventurous beard and a knee-length kaftan over his pants, the kaftan being held by a colourful belt with a dagger stuck on his side. And, unlike Ali Baba, a mobile phone on his ear, talking to the police, I assume. What I was doing here? Considering I was woken from deep slumber and being quite struck by this apparition I hardly managed to to find a single Arabic word to explain my presence. But happy enough he disappeared. What a shame! Or was it me, this woman in bed, that caused him discomfort?
    L    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger

    What next... 2

    26 oktober 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Later that day I take Rexelby for a long walk down the wadi. We are both enjoying this hike along the river, needing to cross it a few times, enjoying the refreshment it offers. Walking along dense shrubbery I suddenly hear hooves galloping and a donkey's neighing and suddenly, out of the dense bushes runs, no, flies a donkey towards me, closely followed by Rex; he loves nothing better then chasing fleeing animals. So here comes this donkey right at me. I just see his eyes, wide open in panic! I try to dodge it! The donkey tries to dodge me and WONK!!! It runs right into me! I go flying! I hit the ground! I don't know what hurt more, where the donkey made contact or the parts I hit the ground with. I move a bit, everything still working, then I sit there, tears from pain running down my face, but I have to laugh ... And laugh. Being run over by a donkey!!
    Slowly I make my way back. Rex trying to tempt me to play with him and his stick. You got to be kidding me!? YOU are the cause of this excruciating pain!
    Finally Lola comes into sight. A car parked beside her. Limping closer, I see that two guys are looking into the van and are trying to open the doors. I call out to them. They sit down on my two chairs. The normal greetings ritual. The guys, late teens, early twenties, sitting down with their legs splayed, check me out from top to bottom. They want to see the inside of Lola. I don't like these guys, don't trust them, so no sightseeing today. But you know what, I would like to sit down on my chair, injury you see, donkey... No, they say, we are not getting up. After quite lengthy "discussions" I tell them to leave, but they don't. Now I am getting quite furious, an emotion you should never show in Saudi! This diminishes your position, but what can I do. Where is an "escort" when you need one!
    At the end I ring Aziz asking him to talk to them. No idea what they said, but Aziz advises with emphasis to pack up and leave.
    So I ended up leaving this beautiful place without having explored the wadi. And there was supposed to be a waterfall as well!    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger
    In the Council buildingWhere did this chameleon come from: I clung on to the big truck's mirrorBeing photographed...

    In the Land of the Flower Men

    31 oktober 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    On my first Saudi round I have previously travelled through the Aseer Province, in the Arabian high lands. When stopping at a traffic light the driver of the car beside me opened his window and handed me a bouquet of lovely smelling flowers and herbs. I was quite baffled about this, seeing these bouquets in several other cars.
    Now, being in this country quite a long time and reading more about it, I learned that this is the province of the flower men. These tribal men take big pride in wearing beautifully crafted and woven flower and herb bouquets on their heads. In the markets in this region, you find stalls where women weave rings of flowers and nice smelling herbs for the men to wear. This is a very old tradition, still in practice today. High up in the mountains villages, Stephen and Birgit told me later, you can see everywhere the men with flowers on their heads. I unfortunately chickened out to travel deep into the heartland of this area due to the very steep roads and Lola’s tendency to break out in sweat and circumstances I will later come to describe. So I was only able to witness some men wearing those head decorations in the outer regions of the Aseer Province.
    Of course, we were given some of the flower rings, the economy version only, which the kids wore with pride.
    The houses are built in a very distinct style, with horizontal slates mended into the walls, apparently to deflect the rain water from the mud walls. We had the honour to visit a family in their home. This was very different from any home I have been to before: a traditional set up, to keep out the heat in summer and the cold in winter, with the lush and colourful wall paintings typical for this area.    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger
    Bazaar in Abha
    Every Saudi household needs some decent sized pots.Interior decor typical for Aseer RegionI just have a thing for beautiful men...

    No more Repairs please!

    6 november 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    And then my house battery gave up its ghost. No battery, no fridge, so I need a new one. No problems, I am close enough to Abha so I tell my friends we will meet down (around 2200m) at the coast in Jazan once I am done. But nothing is as easy as it sounds. No deep cycle battery to be had in the region with about 1 Mio inhabitants. After a long search I find a fitting one in Jeddah. OK, they will deliver, it will arrive in 4-5 days. I hang around Abha, drive from here to there and back. Having a lot of opportunities to discover Abha and Khamais Mushait, the neighbouring city.
    When installing the battery, the pin onto which to attach the accessories brakes off in the hole it is screwed into. Now I have to find a workshop to drill out the screw. I find one, just before they close for the noon prayer. And just as in Saudi fashion, they don’t charge me for this service. Now I am set to go.
    I travel down to Jazan, stinking hot down here. I make another traffic light acquaintance, a very nice family who invite me to their home. I only stay with them for a short time, before moving on, as I am still trying to catch up with the Boegers.
     I’ve only travelled for 100km at the most, when the next problem becomes obvious. My fridge is playing up. So back to Jazan, asking my new friend Hamad for help. He finds a fridge repair shop and after installation of a new thermostat the fridge is back to working order.
    The next day, after promising I will visit him and his family when driving to Najran I am sent off.
    The next day or two a stink of eggs fills my car. What is going on now??? It turns out to that my car batteries are on their last leg, and they are fuming my car up with toxic gases. At least this shouldn’t be too hard? And I am right there: in Najran I get some new batteries and am rolling again.
    For quite some time now one of my teeth is giving me some grief. I had it checked out in Jeddah, they could not resolve this problem. But when I get into Riyadh a few weeks after my car troubles I needed to resolve this issue. And what is the outcome? I need some root canal fillings and a new bridge and crown. Thank you very much! That means three weeks or more until everything is done. But there is no way of avoiding it, so I will have to arrange my travel routes around my dental appointments. And put my hands deep into my pockets ☹.
    Well, that’s how it goes with us elderly ladies. We need some TLC (for you Germans: Tender Love and Care) now and then. And some mechanical work.    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger

    Eating out and other Puzzles

    11 november 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ 🌧 29 °C

    During my first weeks in Saudi Arabia I was baffled how deserted towns and public places are.
    Playgrounds were unattended—where were the children? And the women? I could not understand how, in such a wealthy country, all the shops seemed closed, no bazaars open, apart from the occasional shop here or there. Only larger supermarkets and petrol stations would be operating, unless it was prayer time. The five daily prayers are strictly observed, and during those times you must wait until the prayer is finished before continuing with your business.
    During and after Covid, I learned and experienced many facets of Saudi life, and finally realised: there are people living in this country after all. They simply follow a different rhythm of life, dictated by the harsh environmental conditions.
    I mostly camped in the desert, far from civilisation, beginning my daily travels around 10am and calling it a day between 4 and 5pm to ensure I found a night spot and walked the dog before darkness fell. Saudi life, however, follows a very different pattern. The day begins early, after the morning prayer at sunrise. Shops open, bakers sell their bread, children go to school, and people head to work. As temperatures climb to 50°C, the safest place is indoors. Saudi truly comes alive after the evening prayer at sunset. Roads, bazaars, and playgrounds fill with people, and life buzzes after the final prayer of the day, when night falls. With cooler temperatures, business continues without interruption, and shops remain open until 2am. When I needed a root canal in Riyadh, my appointment was at 10pm—I left around midnight. With my unusual traveller’s rhythm, I had completely misinterpreted the situation and missed out on all the action.
    At first, I was annoyed when a car overtook me, then slowed down sharply, forcing me to overtake again, only for the game to repeat. Eventually, I realised they weren’t inattentive drivers or trying to irritate me. They wanted me to pull over, share coffee on the car bonnet, enjoy dates, or even invite me to their home.
    While driving, I rarely feel like preparing lunch, so I often stop at one of the many Pakistani food stalls or restaurants offering delicious curries and local specialties. Yet the gender separation can make this tedious. Men sit in one area, usually overlooking the street where all the action happens, while women and families are ushered through separate entrances into family sections. There, each family sits in a cubicle where women can remove their niqabs and eat without being exposed to the gazes of men. Occasionally, I am allowed to eat in the men’s area—perhaps because I am such a novelty—but often room dividers are erected around me, or I am denied access altogether. My dining experience is therefore a matter of chance, and I often retreat to my trusty two-minute noodles before hitting the road again.
    As a woman—and especially as a foreign woman—I never had to wait in queues. I would line up neatly, only to be ushered to the front and served immediately. That is something you can get used to!
    Often, when I sat outside my van, people would drive past, park behind Lola, and honk their horn to signal they wanted to see me. At first, I found this annoying—why not get out of the car and come over? But I later learned the reason. It is not considered decent for a woman to be seen unveiled by a man. By parking behind my van, they gave me the opportunity to save face by putting on my headscarf before being seen.
    Travelling—and especially my time in Saudi Arabia—is teaching me a valuable lesson: don’t be so judgmental. There is always a reason behind behaviours that may seem strange or difficult to comprehend. We Westerners often assume that our view of the world is the only correct one. Yet the more you are exposed to different perspectives and cultures, the more you realise there are countless ways a situation can be interpreted, a task completed, or social patterns understood.
    If we could simply accept others for who they are, there would be far fewer conflicts. The world is a kaleidoscope of perspectives and traditions, and it is this diversity that makes our planet such a wonderful place.    Meer informatie

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyAustralia to EuropeReiziger

    Welcome to Saudi Arabia!

    12 november 2020, Saoedi-Arabië ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Finally I was able to capture it on camera: people passing me, waving, calling out a friendly "Welcome to Saudi Arabia"!
    There was a traffic jam, moving along very slowly, allowing me to film cars passing me, recognizing I am from foreign lands. Unfortunately I did not capture the woman handing a paper cup of Arabic Coffee from her car to me.
    I will badly miss you warm-hearted and welcoming people!    Meer informatie

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