Nantes - 6/7 - Part II

Nantes has been a great city to end our Brittany sprint on. The hotel we stayed in is part of the central city and near the train station and has its own remarkable history. The structure was built in 1883 as the Notre-Dame-des-Anges Chapel, part of the convent of the Daughters of Wisdom (Filles de la Sagesse), a Catholic congregation dedicated to teaching and assisting the sick. The chapel was used for worship and community gatherings, serving more than 300 young girls in boarding school or parish classes by the late 19th century. In 1974, the school closed, and the chapel became a “house of welcome” for the diocese. It was eventually desacralized in the early 2000s. The building was sold in 2005 to a real estate developer and then acquired by the Breton group Beautiful Life in 2009. After three years of intensive renovation led by the architectural firm PVA, it reopened as the Sozo Hotel in 2012. Our unusual rooms are depicted below.

We are right next to the Jardin des Plantes. As Richard says, “You can judge the quality of a city by its gardens.” In the middle of the garden was a concert (part of a larger fete going on). We then took a quick tour of the Chateau des Ducs de Bretagne which, on the outside, appears as a castle but on the inside appears as a royal residence. Britany was the last province to be added to France and was added by the marriage of Anne of Brittany to the French throne (she married two French kings!). She resided in and redecorated the Chateau.

The city is prosperous with a variety of industries and has a highly diverse population. The downtown was expanded significantly in the late 19th century and has the boulevard feel of Paris or Barcelona, a time when the middle class expanded its mercantile wealth. In the 70s and 80s extensive pedestrian only streets were created leading to a revitalization of the downtown. Like the rest of our trip, the pedestrians primarily were French and the stores primarily French. Only one or two U.S. chains had a presence. Most stores were high end boutiques. There were so many people and families out and about, we thought they must have come from Paris. But our concierge confirmed that they were just locals - very few were tourists (Paris is 3 hours away by TGV). Indeed, our hotel’s primary customers are commercial. Prime tourist season is mid July through August and many people from Brittany spend their summer vacations in Brittany.

Lastly, we had dinner at La Cigal, a real French “brasserie.” Think Toulouse-Lautrec and La Chat Noir (minus the nightclub aspect). La Cigale opened its doors on April 1, 1895, in the heart of Nantes. The brasserie is the real deal (and a model for restaurants like Washington, D.C.’s Le Diplomat). The walls are covered in Art Nouveau ceramics. The restaurant was designed by architect-ceramicist Émile Libaudière, with ornate interiors crafted by sculptor Émile Gaucher and painter Georges Levreau. The style is a striking example of Art Nouveau, featuring lavish ceramics, gilding, sculptures, and floral motifs. The establishment was founded by Madame Calado, and from the outset, it attracted Nantes’ bourgeoisie and artists performing at the nearby theater.

La Cigale was classified as a historic monument in 1964, protecting its remarkable décor and architectural features. In the 1970s, the restaurant fell into decline and was even briefly converted into a fast-food establishment. However, thanks to its protected status, the original décor remained intact. In 1982, new owners restored La Cigale to its former glory, reviving its reputation as a center of gastronomy and social life in Nantes. The diner was a real and authentic treat.

Tomorrow, Paris.Read more