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Japan 2024
  • Ericovan
  • Judith Rivlin
May – Jun 2024

Japan 2024

Family trip to Japan, focusing on Tokyo and Kyoto. Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 22, 2024
  • Japan 2024

    SFO

    May 24–25, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Chllin’ for a day while we wait for our Zipair 11 hour flight to Tokyo. Nice weather, good Embassy Suites breakfast, and a walk along the water through nice gardens. Plus, a quick visit to the only Meta store in the US where we check out Ray Ban photo and video glasses.

    On the plane. First time with a full lay down bed. Now, I know how my friend Richard travels.

    Only 11 hours to go.    Read more

  • Japan 2024
    Bar seating at Kitaoji Yuyu
    Food arrangements - everywhereSnack on Gion TourKizaki fried fish courseSake and glasses Kitaoji YuyuPrivate residence 1905YukatasBrezieh Cafe private roomBrezieh CafeCedar tub in RyokanApartment BuildingHouseMurmur Cafe KyotoHouseHouseSpotless FiretruckCovered safety conesOld bamboo fenceBotanical garden fenceStreet water grate

    Japan - Final Thoughts

    May 24, 2024 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    The first and last impressions of Japan are its distinct aesthetic. Wood is celebrated everywhere. Pics 9, 12-14. Vertical and horizontal lines add emphasis.

    Ceramics pervade the culture. From bowls to sake cups, even the least expensive eating establishment has unique ceramics, and they often don’t match at a table setting. Two places we ate at had trays of sake glasses for customers to choose from with different cups assigned to different sakes.

    Cleanliness. It’s a great source of relief, as a tourist, to know that any bathroom you go in will be spotless. It was quite a shock to go into the airport bathroom in LAX and see overflowing trash bins with trash on the floor.

    And not just bathrooms. Streets are clean. Train stations. Metro. Don’t look for gender neutral bathrooms though.

    Toilets. And don’t forget to view my awesome toilet video! They really know how to take bathroom etiquette to the next level.

    Lack of crime. It just seems that everywhere you go, women or man, there is no fear of crime. Richard, our one time tour leader, said that each neighborhood has its open beat police person and, that, combined with frequent alarm stations, and the strictness of the school environments, is why there is so little crime.

    Lack of homeless and drug use. Use of drugs carries stiff fines in Japan. Schooling is strict. The safety net appears strong. All of these factors contribute to small numbers of homelessness.

    —————- Tourist Info ——————

    Well, first off, Tokyo and Kyoto are very tourist friendly. Metro, buses and general navigation are straight forward. Service people are friendly and speak hesitant English. Google translate goes s long way. Most importantly, we often found that folks had a great sense of humor.

    Reservations for eating out is a must. Most eating establishments have 8 seats in a bar style. Our one Michelin starred restaurant was bar style, as are all ramen, yakitori and isakaya establishments. See, Pic 1. Establishments with tables exist but are not the rule unless they are very casual - like a coffee shop or food court.    Read more

  • Japan 2024
    Bar seating at Kitaoji Yuyu
    Food arrangements - everywhereSnack on Gion TourKizaki fried fish courseSake and glasses Kitaoji YuyuPrivate residence 1905YukatasBrezieh Cafe private roomBrezieh CafeCedar tub in RyokanApartment BuildingHouseMurmur Cafe KyotoHouseHouseSpotless FiretruckCovered safety conesOld bamboo fenceBotanical garden fenceStreet water grate

    Japan - Final Thoughts

    May 24, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The first and last impressions of Japan are its distinct aesthetic. Wood is celebrated everywhere. Pics 9, 12-14. Vertical and horizontal lines add emphasis.

    Ceramics pervade the culture. From bowls to sake cups, even the least expensive eating establishment has unique ceramics, and they often don’t match at a table setting. Two places we ate at had trays of sake glasses for customers to choose from with different cups assigned to different sakes.

    Cleanliness. It’s a great source of relief, as a tourist, to know that any bathroom you go in will be spotless. It was quite a shock to go into the airport bathroom in LAX and see overflowing trash bins with trash on the floor.

    And not just bathrooms. Streets are clean. Train stations. Metro. Don’t look for gender neutral bathrooms though.

    Toilets. And don’t forget to view my awesome toilet video! They really know how to take bathroom etiquette to the next level.

    Lack of crime. It just seems that everywhere you go, women or man, there is no fear of crime. Richard, our one time tour leader, said that each neighborhood has its open beat police person and, that, combined with frequent alarm stations, and the strictness of the school environments, is why there is so little crime.

    Lack of homeless and drug use. Use of drugs carries stiff fines in Japan. Schooling is strict. The safety net appears strong. All of these factors contribute to small numbers of homelessness.

    —————- Tourist Info ——————

    Well, first off, Tokyo and Kyoto are very tourist friendly. Metro, buses and general navigation are straight forward. Service people are friendly and speak hesitant English. Google translate goes s long way. Most importantly, we often found that folks had a great sense of humor.

    Reservations for eating out is a must. Most eating establishments have 8 seats in a bar style. Our one Michelin starred restaurant was bar style, as are all ramen, yakitori and isakaya establishments. See, Pic 1. Establishments with tables exist but are not the rule unless they are very casual - like a coffee shop or food court.    Read more

  • Japan 2024

    Tokyo - Arrival

    May 24, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Arrived after an 11 hour flight and one hour drive into Tokyo. Hotel Gajoen Tokyo is a first class hotel. Lots of beautiful artworks. Numerous restaurants.

    Our room is spacious and grand even with a steam sauna.

    We then went to a ramen shop. It has a vending machine outside. Google translate helped decipher the menu. Service was at a nine person bar, two people working behind the counter. Pictured below is Tsukemen, a soup and noodle dish where you dip your noodles in broth as you eat.

    Then to bed!    Read more

  • Japan 2024
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    Tokyo - Day 2

    May 25–27, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    So many weddings and gatherings at our hotel! Obis were galore.

    The day was a sunny warm spectacular one. Our guide for the day, Isao, lead us to: a cemetery, pre-war wooden house, a busy street of vendors in Yanaka, an intimate and tasty tempura on rice with broth lunch at a local restaurant, 佳肴 三佐和 日暮里, and a visit to The Former Yasuda House and Garden. We really enjoyed the House and Garden which was built in 1905, all wood, tatami matts and garden views (but no heat and no a/c (of course).

    Isao also helped us learn the metro and to feel the intimacy of small neighborhoods.

    After brief naps, we then had a spectacular meal at Kuhara. Imagine finding yourself in Tokyo in a restaurant that, on our Saturday evening, only served 12 people for the entire evening. We had the night to enjoy our 8 course meal presented by a couple married for 19 years and running this restaurant for 15 years.

    The menu is in Japanese but between the owner’s English and Google Translate, we did fine. Our 8 course, at 13,000 yen, was a delight, start to finish. Duck is their specialty and it occupies center stage.

    Service was gracious and impeccable. It was an intimate and highly memorable meal. We took a variety of pictures with the two owners. After, the wife made us an origami swan.

    It was a great day.    Read more

  • Japan 2024
    2Chocolate Origami
    Hotel Yuen ShinjukuShinjuku Shrine ParadeSaturday MarketMetropolitan Government BuildingLunch at Tempura Shinjuku Tsunahachi SouhontenShinjuku Gyeon Nationsl Garden1Shrine Parade end of day1StarbucksStarbucks mobView from hotel's onsen

    Tokyo - Day 3

    May 26–31, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    A big day before the kids arrive!

    Great breakfast at Hotel Gajoen Tokyo. Then on to our new hotel, a ryokan, Yuen Shinjuku (ONSEN RYOKAN). Right nearby we saw an annual Shinjuku parade. Just after, we came across a street market which was so fun.

    Our big excursion lead through the heart of Shinjuku and then onto the Metropolitan Government Building for a stunning view of the city. As a Sunday, the streets were not crowded at all.

    Coming back, we visited the utterly amazing food court at Takashimaya, a dependent store, which has curated, high end food counters. Leaving, I couldn’t resist a Starbuck’s run only to stumble into a madhouse of people. Very popular.

    Lunch was a complete success right at the counter of Tempura Shinjuku Tsunahachi Souhonten for tempura.

    We then sauntered through Shinjuku Gyoen National Park for a quiet and peaceful excursion before heading to our hotel.

    At the hotel, we donned our Yukatas and went to the hotel’s onsen for a deep and restful soak. A nap, quick ramen dinner and the kids arrived to complete our day.    Read more

  • Japan 2024
    Elaborate hairstyling
    1BreafastKimono clad women at Senso-jiSenso-jiAoyama Ototo (O+O+O) appTempura courseGrilled codGrilled steak

    Tokyo - Day 4

    May 27, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Family here, we started the day with a nice Japanese breakfast:fish, custard, yogurt and miso.

    Then, off to the Senso-ji where a lively local shopping street leads to the temple. There were many women in kimono (you can rent them). We even had a little time to visit the kitchen “tools” district.

    Back to the hotel for a trip to the onsen and’a nap.

    Finally, on to Aoyama Ototo for a nine course meal with an emphasis on charcoal grilled fish and meat. The delicately grilled cod was a highlight.    Read more

  • Japan 2024
    Wagu - Tsukiji Outer Market
    $31 wagu bitesTokyo architectureTokyo architectureTokyo architectureOld room1Japanese love colorful clothingElegance at metro1A rose amongst the B&WNew roomThe Swallows Baseball gameGreat seats provided by Ben and JudyKids at the baseball game1The predicted rain finally hits (Judy pic)They love their baseballGrilled oysters

    Tokyo - Day 5

    May 29–31, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Another epic day. We are in the Shinjuku district, which has great architecture and fabulous people watching.

    Skipping breakfast we headed to the Tsukiji Outer Market based on the rain forecast (rain held off until ). A must see for market lovers, we all went in different directions. Fresh tuna, wagu, grilled oysters (video below), and sukiyaki (really good) . Everyone had a great time.

    We did a brief dip into the Ginza and went to a fabulous stationary store (Ginza Natsuno) with a huge variety of chopsticks, and Ginza department store (Matsuya Ginza-7th floor) with a lifestyle section. By this time, we were all a little tired and retreated to our hotel before our 5 o’clock baseball game.

    The baseball game was really festive and fast moving (our team had three home runs) until about 8 o’clock when the rain got to be too much and we retreated back to our hotel (they called the game five minutes after we left).

    One of the unique aspects of the game is all of the young women that have these big beer backpacks that go around selling the beer to you in your seats (see pic). The crowd is noisy and festive (as shown in the video). The food was really good (short-rib on rice). Yay to Judy and’s Ben for planning it.

    Back to the ryokan.

    The onsen in rain
    All my thoughts just fly away
    A thousand ripples    Read more

  • Japan 2024
    So much for no bare shoulders
    Umbrellas very popularImperial East Gardens1Frank Lloyd Wright Bar at the old imperial hotelFrank Lloyd Wright chairKarin Rothman visitsSorohana

    Tokyo - Day 6

    May 29–31, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Another great day, enhanced by perfect weather.

    We started off by going to Happy Pancake a breakfast spot found by Ben. See video. Very light fluffy pancakes with different toppings.

    Then off to two ukiyo-e woodblock print shops. A successful outing where Sarah and Matt bought two prints.

    Then off to a perfect outing to the imperial East Gardens. We wandered around for an hour and a half to perfect weather and fantastic views.

    Then off to the Old Imperial Hotel bar designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and recommended by Michael Makuch. We met up with Karin Roffman for a delightful hour and a half cocktail. The drinks were perfect and even Margot’s martini was absolutely stunning.

    No stopping for us. We then went off for an epic nine course meal at Sorohana, with a famed female chef. We had our own room for six people. The meal was extraordinary.

    Then bed (no onsen). Tomorrow we head off to Kamakura.    Read more

  • Japan 2024
    Kamakura & Sagami Bay
    Hase-dera TempleHappy Buddha feetThe Grand March of the BuddhasThe Carpe DiemHydrangea Walk. Note the two women way at the top.School kids EverywhereRitualHasa-dera Temple home!Daibutsu Hiking TrailKotoku-in Great Buddha - TempleKids asking Judy questions for a school projectZeniarai Benten ShrineGetting ready to wash their moneyBarefoot man pulling a rickshawLunchTsurugaoka Hachimangu - ShrineWe found the store where you can rent KimonosSo many kimono clad women1Dinner - Sukiyaki & Wagu Yakiniku + fresh strawberries

    Tokyo - Day 7

    May 30–31, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Today is dedicated to Mike Makuch who quietly stressed that Judy and I should go to Kamakura if we could. Well, today we officially became Shriners. Judy took charge and set up a special day.

    Hase-dera Temple. After a relatively quick train ride to Kamakura station, we set off to our first stop, a temple with a dramatic view of the town and Sagami Bay. See, pics.

    This temple was a highlight because of its tremendous scenic variety and because of its famous Hydrangea walk (and they were in full bloom). Note the jumbo Carpe Diem.

    Kotoku-in Great Buddha - Temple. The great Buddha was quite the sight to see. To add to the fun, some school kids pigeon-holed Judy for a school project, haltingly asking her questions in English. They were very cute.

    Daibutsu Hiking Trail. For reasons that escape me on such a busy day, Judy decided on a 2.1 mile (3.4 kilometer) hike (301 feet in elevation) along a ridge bounding town. From a work out point of view, the good news was that it was either up hill or down hill the entire time. See, pic.

    Zeniarai Benten Shrine. After an hour and a half walk along the trail (a 27 minute walk from the Buddha by street) we came to this shrine. The object of worship at Zeniarai Benzaiten is a syncretic kami that combines a traditional spirit called Ugafukujin with the Buddhist goddess Benzaiten.

    Peaceful and nested in the woods, the shrine gained popularity due to the spring located within a cave. Visitors believe that washing their money in this spring will multiply their wealth. The tradition of washing money at the spring began in 1257 when Kamakura’s ruler, Hōjō Tokiyori, recommended faithful followers to wash their coins. According to the belief, the kami Ugafukujin would multiply the coins and bring prosperity to their descendants.

    Many folks were there and they were ringing bells and washing their money! The phrase, “Wash and wear” originated here. It was interesting watching the enthusiastic folks sink into the ritual. See, video.

    Tsurugaoka Hachimangu - Shrine. Many festivals occur here, and the street from the train station leads right to the shrine. Grand, but the least interesting of the places we visited in Kamakura.

    There is a nice walk down the middle of the street for those that don’t care for shopping (akin the Philosopher’s Walk that we will see in Kyoto). But who, aside from from philosophers, can resist shopping?!

    Shopping in Kamakura. Right before and after our visit to the shrine, we enjoyed browsing the many shops in Kamakura. Some are touristy, but others quite interesting. One store specialized in red lacquer items. Judy indulged in a stunning dress at a boutique. I bought a handkerchief.

    We the dined at a yakiniku restaurant where we grilled, table side, Sukiyaki and Wagu meats and vegetables. Very tasty.

    We trained back, briefly heard that the kids had great days, soaked in the onsen, and packed for our trip to Hakone tomorrow.    Read more

  • Japan 2024
    Timeless
    Any occasion to dress upKimonos 👘 frequent & you can rent themSubdued colors - Black is inThat blond hair thingAlways elegantOr interesting - but always diverseSchools love their uniform capsShorts!?🩳 not common, but seenUmbrellas commonBare shoulders - rare but ok1

    Tokyo Fashion

    May 30, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Tokyo fashion is so diverse! People watching is a lot of fun. Photobombing is an art.

    Pics 1-5. Kimono clad women are ever present. For shrines, you can rent them for a day which seems popular. Young people especially wore them. At our first hotel, many women wore them for wedding events. Occasionally will see a man in a kimono, but it’s much more rare.

    Pic 6. Subdued colors are the norm.

    Pic 7-14. Fashion is incredibly diverse. Perhaps, in a society still bound by traditions, clothing allows, individual expression.

    Pic 15. School kids abound! Each school has their own uniform and cap.

    Pic 16. Shorts are rare. Flip flops are very rare. Sandals are seen but closed toe shoes are the norm. Surprisingly, young and older women often wear stockings.

    Pic 17-19. Women frequently carry umbrellas ☂️ on sunny☀️ days.

    Pic 20. Bare shoulders are very rare but not unheard of.

    Videos. Of course, shrine days are an excuse to bring out the neighborhood outfit.    Read more

  • Japan 2024
    1"More power to the engines, Scottie"1House shoes

    Urban Myths in Japan & FAQs

    May 30, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The urban myth Yeses and Nos.

    Pics 2 & 3. Yes, Japanese like subdued colors in their clothes.

    Pic 4. Yes, near rush hour those trains get crowded.

    Pic 5. No, folks do eat on the street (but it’s not common).

    Yes, there are no trash cans! But the city and even the bathrooms are very clean. Tip. Return your trash before leaving a fast food restaurant.

    Pics 6 - 9. Yes, toilets are a thing! No ifs ands or butts. Complete instructions (in Japanese only). The captains command console (Pic 6) is replete with options (I recommend not hitting the eject button by mistake). No standing on the toilet! Pic. 7. Sit down dudes! Pic. 8. Wear special shoes it the toilet closet (onsen rule).

    No, spoken English is common in Tokyo, especially by service people. Google translate works well (tip: turn your phone horizontally and it displays the translation in full screen).

    Pic 10. No, bare shoulders are not verboten. Not common, but not verboten.

    Pic 11. No, shorts are not common but are OK too.

    Pics 12 & 13 Yes, Kimonos are ever present. You can even rent them.

    Pic 14. Yes, the 7-Elevens are very different and worth a visit. The egg salad sandwich is a welcome treat anytime.

    Pic. 15. Yes, as expected, shoes off when entering a home. Exceptions are hotel rooms and commercial establishments.

    Pic. 15. No, the metro is easy and intuitive to use. English directions are ever present. Google maps shows the line, the platform, the number of stops, the stop at the beginning and end and the entrance and exit. Numbers are used for stops. Announcements are in English and Japanese. Even buses have English announcements. Japan Rail is a little weird, but manageable.

    Video & Pic 16. Yes, baseball is a thing. Chanting the whole game. Young women carting around beer packs waving their hands.

    Pic. 17. No, the Ryokan futons are NOT uncomfortable. Quite the contrary you’ll get a good nights sleep. Just remember to takeoff your shoes as you enter add wear your house shoes. Pics 18 & 19.

    Final myth. No, Japan is not a hard place to visit for English reading tourists who wish to visit the major areas.    Read more

  • Japan 2024
    Tsukomo for a Lunch of sobaDuck SobaCold noodles with hot soup and tempuraHakone Botanical Garden of Wetlands1Sukiyaki - local butcherSarah and Matt, in Yukuta, on the way to dinnerAppetizersSashimiSteamed veggies

    Hakone - Day 8

    May 31–Jun 2, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Well, today certainly started on a good note…

    We left rainy Tokyo today to roam amongst the mountains in Hakone, known for its mineral rich, volcanic hot springs. Our destination a Ryokan Onsen, Hakone Mountain View. After negotiating our way through Japan Rail and the intricacies of bus travel, we headed to our Ryokan. A highlight of the journey was seeing Mount Fuji (yay, Ben) having booked, as advised, tickets on the right side of the bullet train.

    The Ryokan exuded spa like serenity and has its own indoor and outdoor onsen but also has private onsens which both younger couples booked. While awaiting checkin, we went out to a soba, noodle, restaurant. Soba predates Udon and Ramen and is buckwheat based. Then we walked lunch off by visiting the Hakone Botanical Garden of Wetlands just down the road. It was a serene walk, welcomed after the busy city.

    On the way back, we passed a butcher with the Sukiyaki cut we have come love.

    Our rooms are spacious and permeated with the expected Japanese esthetic of clean lines, tatami and calm. No shower here! This is a real Ryokan where all bathing is done in the onsen. Dinner and breakfast are included.

    Judy and I dipped into the outside onsen and then into deep naps. For dinner, the custom is the wear a Yukata, pictured, which we all did. The dinner was above and beyond as dish after dish was set before us with appetizers, sashimi, steamed pork, fresh creamy asparagus tofu, beef stew, tempura, miso and rice and a small custard desert.

    Quiet country life.    Read more

  • Japan 2024
    Grin and Bear it
    BreakfastThree Little Maids from School Are WeYukatasOn the Good Ship LollipopCruise Director Sarah (and assistant)But not sinking todayLake Ashli Cruise2Forest of CedarsSulphur and Brimstone - Owakudani1Volcanic Black EggsEggs and Girls1Rush into a two story glass walled building?A narrow escapeHakone Tozan trainHakone Tozan trainLong day, all tired

    Hakone - Day 9

    May 31–Jun 2, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Having slept to the gentle sound of rain all night, we awoke to a perfect, sunny day. Perfect that is for a day outside in Hakone.

    We started with a fabulous breakfast, Pic. 2, all dressed in Mt. View Hakone yukatas. Pics. 3-5. We then grabbed a bus into the local port where a “Pirate Ship” cruise allowed us a full tour of Lake Ashi. Pic. 6. Sarah volunteered to be cruise director. Pic. 7. The day was beautiful and everyone was in a good mood as we cruised down the lake. Pics. 8 - 13.

    We hopped off the boat when I found that a local wood inlay store was near one of the drop-off ports. It was good fortune as we walked through an ancient cedar forest. Pic. 14. We enjoyed a successful shopping expedition just after one of ancient checkpoints used to ensure that female, court “hostages” were not trying to sneak back to their home castles. Margot and Ben bought a really nice inlay memento. The port was nearby allowing us to head to the next stop, a cable car to Owakudani:

    “Owakudani is one of most famous viewpoints in Hakone, where you can observe the intense volcanic activity from up close. It is said that this place came to be thanks to a phreatic eruption and pyroclastic flow that occurred almost 3000 years ago. The peculiar sulfur smell that spreads throughout the area was the reason behind its second name from the past, Jigokudani (Hell Valley). One of the local specialties is the “black eggs”, whose main trait is in the shells that turn black due to a chemical reaction with geothermal energy and volcanic gas.”

    Needless to emphasize, we dove into and enjoyed the local and famous black eggs. Pics. 16. As always, local school kids were on scene to enjoy as well. Pic. 17. Given that no safe building was anywhere around we enjoyed the posted warning message. Pic 18. Escaping through sulfurous mist we then caught the local Hakone Tozan train:

    “The Hakone Tozan train was completed in 1923 to give visitors easy access to the cool weather in the mountains of Hakone during the humid and sweltering Japanese summers.”

    We then caught our local bus back to Mount View Hakone; all pretty tired by now. Pic 20. Onsen and 20 minutes of rest before dinner at 6:30.

    So many sights seen!
    (So many steps we have strode)
    Ah, there, the onsen!    Read more

  • Japan 2024
    1Even local workers have styleCheck out those shoesSubtle shades of brownMary Janes - Still in after all of these decadesI love how the shoes anker the outfitI think the mask adds a subtle touchA Vietnamese who modeled for meA compatriot VietnameseWho dat?

    County Fashion Hakone

    June 1, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    So here we are in the mountains of Hakone and fashion is still a thing. The diversity continues to be a blast, and I continue to photobomb. Definitely not a blue jeans on the weekend getaway culture. PS Stockings still common.

    Exception. I met four very high styling Vietnamese who have been working in Japan for the last 4 years. I took a number of directed shots of them (which they appreciated) and obtained a few shots for me.    Read more

  • Japan 2024

    Kyoto - Day 10

    Jun 2–7, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today, was mostly a transit day. We took the bullet train from Tokyo to Kyoto. The bullet train was incredibly impressive. As we stood in the station and number row by 223 miles an hour.

    The ryokan (our third) is quite elegant with three kimono clad ladies at the front desk, automated electric toilets and most impressively a deep cedar tub in its own closet.

    At night, Ben found a bar, two doors down and we closed it down drinking best with a bilingual woman, Kurka. Her partner, Akira looks like s genuine samurai but with a great sense of humor. I asked for all kinds of crazy questions about Japan. She owns 10 kimono.    Read more

  • Japan 2024
    Genjii print for Matt1Ryohei print for Eric

    Kyoto - Day 11

    June 3, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today, Matt Sarah and I wandered around Kyoto. Our first drop was Takashima market. There seem to be an infinite number of stalls with food and sundries of all sorts.

    We then went off to two print shops. The first one was disappointing, but in the second one we spent 2 1/2 hours looking over prints. It was a wild success. A good part of the success was my request to see an artist three of whose prints I have: Ryohei Tanaka. The store kept finding more and more hidden stashes of his prints, and I found a huge stash in their upstairs room. It turns out they had a special relationship with the artist and even have some of his advanced prints.

    Matt bought himself a print.

    After many rounds of discussion, I ended up buying Matt a triptych. “Triptych: the Genpei War was a civil war between the Taira and Minamoto clans (aka the Heike and Genji, depending on how you read the characters) that signaled the end of the Heian period, the beginning of the Kamakura shogunate, and perhaps most importantly, the ascent of the bushi (warrior) caste over the aristocrats that previously dominated politics. It was famously fictionalized in The Tale of the Heike, an anonymous epic poem compiled sometime before 1330.”

    He bought a tale of Genji print.

    “Genji print: Hikaru Genji (the "Shining Prince," for his beauty) was the son of the Kiritsubo Consort, who despite her comparatively lower social stature was the most beloved of the emperor's consorts. Because of the impropriety of the emperor spending so much time with a "lower" consort, she's the victim of harassment by others to the degree that she wastes away and dies when Genji is 3 years old. Genji spends the rest of his life trying to fill the void left by his mother's death by pursuing romantic relationships with women that resemble his mother (how Freudian!). This void is never truly filled, instead leaving him regularly contemplating the impermanence of things.”

    Matt and Sarah have yet to decide on their final purchases.

    We had a lovely walk to the koto craft museum. It was a great exhibit on how various crafts in Kyoto are made from lacquerware to wooden buckets, to tassels to Kimono.

    Dinner. Giblets Nabe Pot Kamehachi. Known for their horse sashimi. We had the horse sashimi, hot pot, hot pot repurposed with noodle’s and excellent panna cota and yuzu sorbet.

    Then Off to our local bar to meet up with Uraka and Akira. Uraka wore a denim kimono. .    Read more

  • Japan 2024
    Cafe Murmur Honey Butter toast
    OctapusPhilosopher's Walkcafe Breizh Café

    Kyoto - Day 12

    June 4, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today started at Cafe Murmur where Judy and I had honey toast. Mike had mentioned The Philosopher’s Walk so we transited up there with our first destination Higashiyama Jisho-ji. However, the street leading to the temple is full of shops that distracted us from our spiritual destination.

    Going to Temple
    All the shops along the way
    A marriage of two

    The temple grounds were magnificent with a variety of view’s and textures. The weather was perfect.

    Eikandō Temple. This was our second temple destination. Unusual for being a Zen temple. One had paintings by competing schools and one room with a path down the middle and two paintings repeating temptations to avoid.

    We had lunch at Breizh Café Crêperie Kyoto enjoying a fee buckwheat crepes. Very tasty. Richard, Jamie and I have gone to one in Paris. Needless to mention, some French Canadians came and sat nearby.

    Dinner was at Yakiniku Yaza where we enjoyed a host of Wagu courses featuring different cuts of meet.    Read more

  • Japan 2024

    Kyoto - Day 13

    June 5, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Cooking Class. We had a gyoza and ramen cooking class with a young woman, in her apartment, Nariko. As always cooking classes are a lot of fun. It was also fun getting the perspective of young couple living in Kyoto.

    Gion Night Tour. Later, at 5:20, we had a four+ hour tour of the geisha district. Kyoto was not harmed in WWII, so the district is intact. Many of Richard’s insights are in a separate post.

    But, as to Geishas, he was practical and insightful. There are still some 300 in Kyoto. They apprentice for five years as Maiko, and, if they have enough patrons, they move out of the mama-san’s place and live on their own or with other geisha. Their apprenticeship is rigorous involving music, dancing and dress and hairstyle. Although their numbers are declining, young girls still volunteer for this rigorous program where they only get to see their parents for one week a year.

    They then work in member only clubs around town. There are 24 seasons in Japan, and a geisha needs a kimono for each one ($10,000 plus per).

    Noteworthy, is that patrons only can be referred by an existing patron who the becomes liable for any debt incurred by their nominee. If the referring patron can’t pay, their referring patron must pay. So it’s a no- tourist kind of arrangement. Geishas retire out at between 25-35 years old and must enter a new line of work (unless married). Examples are running a mens club or seeking a beauty line.    Read more

  • Japan 2024
    Bamboo ForestMarket OystersOctupusCafeThree-year-old wood used to make lacquer bowlsMargot and Ben printYoshida print of Taxco Mexico!Sarah and Matt Ryohei printSarah and Matt printDinner at Sorohana

    Kyoto - Day 14

    June 6, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Bamboo Forest. Out morning trip was to Arashimi where the famed bamboo forest is. Another beautiful day, and we really enjoyed walking around the forest and the small town at the subway station.

    Lunch at Nishiki Market. We returned to the market for a festive lunch of absolutely fresh oysters with salmon roe and uni and, separately, unagi spears.

    Shopping at a lacquer store. We zipped over to Zohiko Lacquer Shop, and then the wood block print shop, Art Gallery Ezoshi. Several people had recommended the laquer shop and it was truly astounding because the lacquer was mostly very simple and just perfectly done. With the aid of my daughters and wife, I purchased six perfect, red soup bowls. As shown in the pictures, the process of hollowing out a piece of wood before lacquering it is a very intense process (which we also saw at the craft museum).

    Sarah and Matt had previously spent a long afternoon picking out wood block prints, and they concluded their purchases with the acquisition of two prints. Margot and Ben, to our great surprise, picked out two of their own. One of the prints is from the same artist whose print I have back at home.

    Ben went shopping at vintage clothing store and came back with a Dave Matthews jersey.

    Dinner was a fascinating omakese marl at Washoku Toku, where we had courses of fish, steak, tempura and two soups (one veggie and one miso). The restaurant was really tiny with a six person bar and a back room with two tables, one for us. The chef came at the end of the meal and greeted us.    Read more

  • Japan 2024
    Sake cup chestOne of 13 rice choices (unago picked by Sarah)

    Kyoto - Day 15

    Jun 7–8, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Another epic day. We started with a visit to our local café, Kissa Kishin Kyoto, where I had an omelette, siphoned and coffee and Judy had a granola bowl. Both sets of kids went there after we were there.

    We then went off to visit the imperial Palace used in the TV series Shogun. The palace was a little spare on furnishings, but you did get a sense of the grander. Pics 3 - 7.

    Sarah, Matt and I then took a long trek to the Genji Museum. The museum itself is beautiful with glass corridors leading around gardens. However, the museum was better at showing what life was like in Heian times than delving deeply into the Genji stories.

    The three of us then walked over to a famous Heian temple of the Pure Land sect of buddhism, Byodo-in. Pic 8.

    We jetted back to The Beer Lab near our Ryokan for a quick pint and fried chicken snack. Pic 9.

    Twenty minutes of rest and we went off to our one Michelin star restaurant experience. Pics 10 - 19.. There were only eight seats at the restaurant and we occupied six, the other two were vacant!

    The chef and his sous chef were in front of us the whole evening. We exchanged many Google Translate messages back-and-forth. As often is the case, I found Japanese to have a great sense of humor. The chef explained each course to a very enthusiastic crowd.

    We negotiated with the chef that we would get three different sake which they served over the course of the evening. Margot and I also split a half bottle of champagne, Each sake had its own special cup, which we selected from three large chest drawers.

    The kaiseki meal was exceptional. At one point, the sous chef brought out a bag of living fish, which we later ate after they had been both grilled and fried. Video and Pics 12 - 14. The fish were amazing, and you eat the whole fish head and tail included.

    For the rice course, the chef offered us a choice of rice dishes from a menu of 13 different dishes. Sarah chose unago (exceptional) while Margot chose duck.

    It was warm and festive way to celebrate our last meal together.

    Not to cut the evening short, Ben, Sarah add I returned to The Beer Lab where we met Uraka and Akira for festive beers and lively conversation, as usual, closing the bar down just before 11:00.    Read more

  • Japan 2024

    Life in Japan

    June 7, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Richard was our Gion tour guide.

    Our tour leader’s comments on life in Japan as I recall them.

    With the same party in power for some thirty years, it may come as no surprise that most Japanese are content just carrying on with their lives with little concern for external politics. That said, there is little love lost for China and Korea, even if younger folks like K-pop.

    The minimum wage has rested at $10 an hour, primarily because there has not been inflation in Japan. Richard observed that Korean culture is about 30 years behind Japanese culture in terms of work-life balance.

    Richard made many observations about WWII, but the most interesting one was that the US set up the entire education system and curriculum for Japan. As the result, Japanese are raised with the notion that they were evil for attacking Pearl Harbor.

    Richard also has the opinion that Japanese education is very rigid and produces a monoculture. He also remarked that innovation, which used to lead to the creation of major corporations with innovative products, has been weaned out of the education system that does not encourage creative thinking, or analytical thought, but focuses on memorization.

    The general view of the United States is very positive with most Japanese feeling the US represents “cool.” However, Japanese also feel inferior when it comes to standards of beauty and customs to the predominantly western culture and notions of beauty that pervade Japanese media.

    Japanese are predominantly secular and non-religious. However, they routinely go to shrines with the notion that shrines represent places of positive energy and a place where people can make affirmations for change. Richard stressed that before the introduction of Buddhism, there was no central religion in Japan and that Shintoism is not a god-based religion.

    As to World War II, Richard agreed that the bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki did not trigger the surrender of Japan. He saw the major destruction of Japanese cities (by Curtis LaMay) and the entry of the Soviet Union into the war as the major contributing factors. Amongst the leadership there was just a sense of weariness and exhaustion.

    He also agreed that when Japan launched the war, they were just trying to buy time to secure oil fields. The leadership expected and hoped to achieve peace United States at that point. He also mentioned that the attack on Pearl Harbor was after the formal declaration of war was delivered to United States, but the United States did not publish that fact.

    Finally, he said that because of the warning states period, Japanese culture does not hold grudges in the event they lose a war, and that they bear no ill will towards the United States because of this cultural tradition.    Read more

  • Japan 2024
    2Mount FujiMount FujiMount FujiMount FujiMount Fuji

    Kyoto - Day 15 - Leaving

    June 8, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Leaving on a bullet train.

    But even then Japan had a treat in store. Mount Fuji graced us with its presence.

    We road the stars on a crescent moon
    Flying so far above
    When landed, back we came
    To house and dog and love
    But here we are and kids so far
    So memories will have to do    Read more

    Trip end
    June 8, 2024
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