• Ericovan
Januari 2025

Peru

Brief Trip to Peru with Amit 1/25 Baca selengkapnya
  • Awal trip
    1 Januari 2025

    On the road again

    1 Januari, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    At the airport on the way to panama then Peru. It was just a few weeks ago that friend Amit invited me to go to Peru for a few days and to check out Machu Picchu. We pit the whole itinerary together in an afternoon.

    Now, rain clothes and two pair of hiking shows here I am.
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  • Lima - Miraflores district

    2 Januari, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Arrived at my hotel: J.W. Marriott safe and sound. Great convo with taxi driver, Alejandro. Settled in and had a local dinner of Pisco Sour, ceviche de pescado, risotto pescado Parmesan and a rich, not too sweet cocoa rich tiramisu.Baca selengkapnya

  • January 2 - Day 2

    3 Januari, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Great day. The Marriott hotel I am staying in is quite elevated and located right on the water in the swankiest part of town - Miraflores.

    I have befriended Alejandro, a local taxi driver, who always seems ready to take me places, offer tips, note attractions and keep me on schedule. It’s quite a luxury.

    Today, off to the Museo Larco where the 150 year reign of the Incas pales in comparison to the 5,000 year history of Peruvian civilization, one of the six regions of the world where civilization emerged. The level of sophistication was impressive. Pics 4-6.

    Along the way I saw the real Statue of Liberty (on a casino) and el Ombu, planted 200 years ago by General Jose de San Martin, the liberator of Peru (in 1821). Peru was the last Spanish colony in the Americas to claim its freedom. Walking down the street you readily can see that “mixed” and “native” populations are the vast majority.

    Ethnic Groups:
    - Mixed (Mestizo): 60.2%
    - Native: 25.7% (including Quechua 22.3%, Aymara 2.4%, and other indigenous groups)
    - White: 5.9% (including Spanish, Italian, German, and other European origins)
    - Black: 3.6%
    - East Asian: 0.2% (including Japanese and Chinese)

    Compare to Chile (same 32 million population)

    Ethnic Groups:
    - White and non-Indigenous: 88.9%
    - Mapuche: 9.1%
    - Aymara: 0.7%
    - Other Indigenous Groups: 1% (including Rapa Nui, Likan Antai, Quechua, Colla, Diaguita, Kawesqar, Yagan or Yamana)
    - Unspecified: 0.3%

    Then, a great visit to the ChocoMuseo run by two French sisters! It was a great opportunity for me to speak in French. I was able to identify Romy as Parisian by her pure accent. She has great Peruvian chocolate and gave a tour of the process. It turns out that Cocoa powder is a byproduct of making chocolate; that white chocolate is chocolate and uses just cocoa butter, and that cocoa nibs are the foundation of what becomes of chocolate. Very cool. Pics 8-11.

    Good ceviche lunch (Romy told me, and I confirmed, that eating ceviche should be done before 4 PM. Otherwise the fish is not quite as fresh and is “overcooked,” ie acidic).

    Later, I had an Asian dinner that in typical Peruvian fashion had samosas (of Persian origin), fish tacos with tuna and nori, and batter fried gyoza!
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  • January 4 - Day 3 - Peru?

    4 Januari, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    So, Lima, downtown has a wealth of upscale stores to rival any European or US city. Politics here are unstable but the economy is in pretty good shape.

    Some stats:
    - Lima is the fourth most visited city in South America (Cusco, capitol of the Incas, is 7)
    - Lima is the 6th wealthiest city in South America measured by:

    1. Gross Domestic Product (GDP):
    2. Median Household Income:
    3. Wealth Accounts
    4. City Prosperity Index (CPI)

    Peru has the 5th strongest GDP and 6th strongest GDP per capita out of 12 countries. It’s genie index rank is 5th and coincidentally so is their HDI. Democratic governance has been in place since 2001.

    So why is there so much unrest including a failed attempt to rule by decree in 2022 by President Castillo? Urban vs rural tensions. Rural supporters felt Castillo, whose base is rural, was being targeted. The other side charged him with corruption. He is now in prison.

    Sound familiar? Regardless of how far you go from home, it seems you never left.
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  • San Martin - liberator of Peru 1821Simon Bolivar900 - 1450 BC

    Peruvian Culture

    4 Januari, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Great private tour of the Museo de Arte followed by my own tour of the Museo de Arqueología y Antropólogía. A nice follow-up to the museo Larco.

    What a surprise to see that Machu Picchu is but the 150 year tip of a 3,000 year old civilization. Think of the Incas as the Romans of their day. Warlike conquerors who were good engineers. But their empire was just an overlay of distinct sub-cultures, and when the Incas went away, the subcultures remained.

    Amit also arrived to save the day. We are off to Pisco Sours snd dinner at Astid y Gaston.
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  • Pisco tasting
    Pisco SoursHen dumplingsAmazing bread basketScallop and sweet potato ravioliChoco souffle with spiced ice creamMartha1926 Model TPisco Sours at The Hotel Bolivar - birthplace of the drinkEl CentroBiblioteca del Convento de Santo Domingo

    Peru - Day 5

    5 Januari, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Last nights dinner at Astrid & Gaston was fabulous. We connived with our solicitous and enthusiastic waiter to do a Pisco tasting - a distilled grape liquor. Then onto a really top notch world class meal - all for under $200. Pics 1-7.

    Today, after a brief cafe and breakfast, we took a four hour private tour with Martha. Martha has been a guide for some 13 years. She is a chatty soul, and so we covered topics including the economy, politics, living in Lima, Peruvian’s views on Venezuela, Chile, and the Spanish, the Catholic church and, of course the actual tour locations. Pics 8-15.

    A visit to the Casa de Aliaga was a pleasure as we saw how the Spanish colonials lived snd live (the family still lives there). However, Spaniards are not favored here in Peru (as might be expected). Indeed, Martha is given special cautionary instructions when she tours Spaniards.

    We visited the Hotel Bolivar, birthplace of the Pisco Sour, had a Pisco Sour and a long chat. Then off to El Centro, a Spanish colonial square, and then to the Bibliotheca Santo Domingo. Finally, we went to the Larco museum for a brief tour (I already had been there). Pics 14-15. Note that in Pic 14 some of the figures look Chinese - something still baffling to scholars.

    Living in Peru median folks earn about $400 a month and have two jobs to earn that. Children tend to live with their parents through their 20s as housing is expensive. Martha, in her early 40s, has an hour and a half
    to 2 hour commute into town. Her friends live in the city so she sees them after work. Most have no plans to have kids. The country is Catholic, but younger folks may be drifting away from the church. Life is “OK,” she said.

    Martha confirmed what my other guide Anna said. Venezuela has been shipping unwanted gangs into Peru causing friction. There is no love lost with Chile although Uruguay is viewed favorably. Mining companies generate income but are foreign or privately owned. The country still is run by a few top level families. There seems to be a fair amount of rural unrest but I am not clear on its cause. Peru consists of many pre-Inca cultures and with both Anna and Martha (Moche culture) they identify still with that culture even if they don’t speak the dialect. The Incas really do seem like a passing influence over a diverse cultural map.
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  • Peru - Day 7

    6 Januari, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Moved from Lima to Cusco. Amit booked a fabulous hotel with Marriott points. Pics 1-5.

    We toured this town for a few hours enjoying some local coffees including one at a woman owned cafe where we also had a terrific avacado toast. Pic 8. We then went to the ChocoMuseo (the one Romy owns with her sister).

    Dinner at Organic was fantastic with a tasty Argentinian Malbec-Tannat-Cabernet Sauvignon.

    We then had fun dropping by our third woman owned business, a jewelry store. Marie Elena owns the business and supports her three brothers and travels to Italy once a year for inspiration. Alas, her jewelry was out of our price range - but we had a good time.

    Off for a nightcap, Pic 5 and bed. Early 5:30 start.
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  • Peru - Day 8

    7 Januari, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We are not even at Machu Picchu and the sights, on our two day tour, are building up. Fortunately we are hating our tour with a delightful couple from London. First, we went to an Alpaca, Llama and Vicuna farm for an immersive experience in animal husbandry. Our drive took us through the Sacred Valley. Pic 5.

    Then onto an exploration of terrace farming by the Incas. Pic 7.

    We then sauntered over to an existing terrace in Ollantaytambo and climbed it. Views were beautiful including housing built right into the mountain. Pics 8-16.

    After climbing down we jetted over to the train station for an 1:40 train ride to our luxury hotel at the Machu Picchu base camp. Succumbing to fatigue and the pressures of the long day, we booked massages, had dinner and hit the hay in anticipation of another 6:00 am start.
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  • Paris and Dougie

    Peru - Day 9 - Machu Picchu

    8 Januari, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Up again and at 4:30, we are in a rush to get from Cusco to Agua Caliente and onto Machu Picchu (MP). Bus to train to bus. We continue with our delightful young British couple from London, Paris and Dougie. So our tour group is small. At MP Adam from Australia joins us.

    MP. MP is relatively small, housing only 1,000 folks at its best including slaves. It was undiscovered until 1912 and was uninhabited when the conquistadors came. Fabrizio speaks Incan and identifies as Incan (you may recall. that Martha, our guide in Lima, identifies as Mochi). So his portrayal of Incans was quite biased and placed them in the most favorable light with what I regarded as fanciful elaborations.

    It took the Spaniards 40 years to subdue the Incas but my impression is that we know very little about them beyond what we can see in their engineering, their terraces and their pottery and what was buried with them.

    What made the visit so wonderful for me was the astounding Andes mountains that soared into the sky and plummeted to the valleys below us. Pictures just cannot capture the depth and grandeur. My attempt: Pics 1,3,4,5,8,9 and 18. It was a magnificent feeling seeing nature on such a scale.

    Most importantly, with a thousand inches of rain a year and fog common, we were lucky. Just as we were leaving the fog swept in. Pic 20. Then later on the ride down, rain. Later visitors would have missed the best part.

    Returning to Cusco. Unlike the fancy trip out with Alpaca and Lima farms, the trip back goes through small towns. Martha had said average folks earn $400 a month (1,500 sol) in Lima while Fabrizio said that folks earn about $267 (1,000 sol). Hard to reconcile this with a low key Indian dinner in Cusco for 200 sol. Amit booked us, with the power of his points, in a JW Marriott that was a convent.

    On the way back, as elsewhere, a lot of buildings are only partly constructed. It's as if a financial apocalypse happened. Although I don't have a complete answer, it would seem that COVID and poliyical instability have dried up.funds. Here's what the World Bank says:

    "Peru has completed a decade of relatively low growth, averaging 2.3 percent between 2014 and 2023, with one in three Peruvians living in poverty. These results stand in stark contrast to those obtained in the previous decade, when the economy grew 6.4 percent and poverty declined from 60 percent in 2004 to 33 percent in 2013."

    Now, Peru is an "upper-middle-income economy."
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  • Peru - Last Day

    9 Januari, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ -1 °C

    Our last day in Peru and we had a completely relaxing morning until Alejandro picked us up to go to the airport at 1:00 pm. In Lima the hipster neighborhood, just south of Miraflores where our J.W. Marriott is, is Barranco. Alejandro drove us down there on the 8th for a quick visit and we returned this morning taking a leisurely 30 minutes to arrive there. In Barranco are some galleries, upscale hipster type of cafes and lots of street art. In particular, there is the famous bridge of sighs. If you hold your breath and cross it your wish for love will come true.



    We wandered around two galleries, took a few pics, strolled down to an ocean view and had a nice brunch at a cafe.
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    Akhir trip
    8 Januari 2025