Italy Teatro Romano di Aosta

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  • Day 67

    Cleaning up a loose end!

    September 19, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Back on August 18th, when we proclaimed that we had completed the Italian portion of the Via Francigena, that was pretty much true. Almost true. Nearly true. Very nearly true. 99.273% true. But, not 100% true!

    You see, when we descended from the Great Saint Bernard Pass to Aosta, our group’s pickup point was in Gignod, outside of Aosta, and 7.27k (4.5 miles) from the end of that stage of the Via. So, while you could certainly say we’d completed the Via Francigena, technically, you could argue that we hadn’t. Not really.

    Naturally, being retired lawyers, we love highly technical arguments and concluded that our quest was not finished. We were 7.27k short!

    So, nothing could be done but to return to Aosta, taxi to Gignod, and walk back to the end of the stage in Aosta. Which is what we did yesterday!

    And what a walk it was! In August, it was really, really hot, over 90 degrees in the shade (with very little shade during two thirds of the hike). And, by the time we got to Gignod, we were really, really tired, having descended 1,598 meters (5,233 feet) over 26.2k (16.3 miles) in about 7 5 hours, much of it over challenging terrain.

    Yesterday morning, it was in the low 60’s, perfect hiking weather, the terrain was mostly easy peasy, and we were very well rested and full of energy. We practically danced the 7.27k down to Aosta! It was pure joy, strolling along, dividing our time between looking back up towards the Great Saint Bernard Pass we had crossed in August (there’s some snow up there now) and looking down the beautiful valley to Aosta. Perhaps the most pleasant walk we’ve ever done!

    When we got in, we celebrated by having a wonderful lunch at the same restaurant Sandy Brown had taken our group to on our last night together. It was super then; it was just as good yesterday.

    So, now we can honestly say that we absolutely, really, 100%, inarguably, and without question have completed the Italian portion of the Via Francigena!
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  • Day 12

    Day 8: Rest day (Valgrisenche valley)

    August 31, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Today is a rest day! After walking around the small village of Valgrisenche, we took a half hour bus ride to Arvier, a small town at the bottom of the valley. We did some grocery shopping and had a nice picnic at the main park where many families were barbecuing around a pound.
    Tonight, we are staying in a small cottage in Planaval.
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  • Day 11

    Day 7: Valgrisenche

    August 30, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today, we had a short hike down to the Valgrisenche valley. After some grocery shopping, we had a nice lunch and chatted for a while with friendly locals.
    We are staying in Bonne, in a vacation rental where we can do laundry: what a luxury!Read more

  • Day 10

    Day 6: Rifugio Chalet de l’Epée

    August 29, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Staying in Rifugios (mountain huts in Italy) has been fun: welcoming staff, good food, and friendly hikers from different European countries.
    Today’s hike was supposed to be easy but it turned out to be a pretty demanding day.Read more

  • Day 6

    Day 2: Eaux Rousses

    August 25, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    A thunderstorm broke out around dinner time last night: it rained pretty hard.
    This morning, there was a lot of fog but it eventually cleared up.
    We hiked to a high pass (Col du Loson: 3299m) and then it was a very long downhill to the Valsavaranche valley. We saw several herds of chamois along the way.
    We were happy to get a last minute demi-pension at “A l’Hostellerie du Paradis”.
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  • Day 4

    Day hike to Refugio Grauson

    August 23, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    This day hike started with amazing views of Gran Paradiso glacier under perfect weather conditions.
    After several steep sections, we reached a nice valley popular with mountain bikers and a good spot for our lunch break. It was also a great pasture for a herd of cows.Read more

  • Day 27

    And we made it down, too!

    August 10, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    It’s often said that hiking down hill is harder than hiking up hill. I’m not sure that’s always true, but it sure was for us on Saturday. Coming down from the Great Saint Bernard Pass was even more challenging than climbing up on Friday! The fact that we were tired from the climb up added to the challenge.

    We’ve done some long downhill days over the years, including the Bright Angel Trail down the Grand Canyon, but nothing like the decent from the Great Saint Bernard Pass. It wasn’t technical, we didn’t need to use our hands, but the path was tough.

    It was also hot; over 90, which made it harder and required us to carry more water at about 2 pounds per liter.

    It’s hard for a photographer to capture steepness (or, at least hard for us amateurs) so our photos don’t really do this hike justice, and the difficult footing kept us from taking too many during the worse parts, but believe us, this was quite a hike. It really made the Grand Canyon seem like nothing!

    The rough part was the first two thirds or so; one later stretch was actually very pleasant, a fairly gentle, well shaded slope along an irrigation canal. Just in case we were getting too impressed with ourselves, the Matterhorn was visible in the distance, reminding us that what we had just accomplished wasn’t really that impressive!
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  • Day 9

    Col du Gd-St-Bernhard

    August 9, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Nach dem zMorgen haben wir unsere Sachen gepackt und sind mit dem Auto auf den grossen St. Bernhard gefahren. Von da aus haben wir eine Rundwanderung zum Lac de Fenêtre gemacht. Balu hat die Schneefelder geliebt! Natürlich durfte auch ein Picknick in der herrlichen Bergwelt nicht fehlen. Wir hatten herrliche Sicht auf die umliegenden Berggipfel inkl Mont Blanc. Der Rückweg war dann teilweise etwas anspruchsvoll. An einem Ort mussten wir Balu über einen Vorsprung hinaufheben 😅.
    Zurück auf der Passhöhe durfte natürlich der Besuch des Hospiz und den Bernhardinern (welche auf dem Pass übersommern). Herrliche grosse Tiere, so richtig zum knuddeln. 😍 Da sind Erinnerungen aufgekommen!
    Zurück auf dem Camping gab noch eine Abkühlung am Pool und dann ein feines Raclette zu zNacht!
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  • Day 36

    Rest day in Étroubles

    August 9, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    A much-needed rest day. We explored a little but mostly we sat around.

    We noticed a number of dried flower bundles on or near the front doors of houses. We asked, but nobody knew what they meant. In the Navarra region of Spain (first Camino in 2017) there were eguizkilore like these to protect the homes from evil spirits,

    There is a yellow flower in the Alps, the génépi, which is used to make a digestif. A nice way to finish a meal,
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  • Day 5

    Val Ferret

    July 7, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Wir glauben an den Wetterbericht, demzufolge der Regen um 9:00 aufhört und ab 10:30 wieder Sonnenschein durchkommen soll. Deshalb schlafen wir aus und frühstücken ausgiebig.
    Um 10:30 starten wir - und wirklich kommt die Sonne wieder hervor!
    Heinz und Fritz haben sich für die Variante B entschieden und nehmen den Bus ins Val Ferret, steigen dann von dort aus verkürzt zur Hütte auf.
    Wir Dresdner bummeln erst noch durch Courmayeur - an einem Sonntag Morgen bei Sonnenschein. Hans-Jürgen findet auch einen Geldautomaten, der seine Karte akzeptiert…
    In den folgenden 2,5 Std sehen wir 7 verschiedene Gletscher. Es ist ein wunderbarer Blick von diesem Weg aus. Dann erreichen wir die Refugio Bertone - unterwegs sind sehr viele Wanderer, meist Amerikaner (?).
    Wir genießen zur Mittagspause den atemberaubenden Blick auf die Gletscherwelt und den Apfelkuchen😉
    Dann geht es auf einem „Balkonweg“ nahezu auf gleichbleibender Höhe in 2,5 Std zur Refugio Walter Bonatti (2050m).
    Hier treffen wir Heinz und Fritz wieder.
    Moderne, neue Hütte - für uns ein 6er Zimmer. Abends bekommen wir ein 4-Gang Menue - das auch noch richtig gut schmeckt. Die Nacht in einer Hütte ist naturgemäß etwas unruhiger aber wir sind recht zufrieden.
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