Japan
Nakanomatsukawa-eki

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  • Day 3

    Epic Fail…..oder doch nicht?

    October 25, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Unser Tag startet im AirBnB in Tokyo. Es ist 5 Uhr morgens als ich das erste Mal wach werde. Angesichts dessen, dass wir gestern angekommen sind und eigentlich Jetlag haben müssten, eine passable Uhrzeit. Michi schläft noch tief und fest und auch von Alex ist nichts zu hören. Mir bleibt also nichts anderes übrig als mich nochmal auf die Seite zu drehen und weiter zu schlafen.

    Um 8 Uhr klingt der Wecker und das Haus kommt in Bewegung. Kurz darauf verlassen wir die Unterkunft Richtung U-Bahn. Aber halt, wieso laufen wir an der Station vorbei? Hatten wir nicht gestern noch gesagt es wäre besser U-Bahn zu fahren um die Rollen der Koffer zu schonen? Die Jungs darauf nur “oh hab ich vergessen”. Na gut. Dann laufen wir eben die knapp 2 KM mit 4 Koffern.

    Am Bahnhof angekommen gibts das Erste mal Frühstück in Japan. Doch so richtig traut sich keiner von uns an die lokalen Spezialitäten. Es gibt Toast für alle. Alex mit Ei und Wurst, Michi Ham und Cheese und ich versuche mich an roter Bohnen Paste. Garnicht mal schlecht. Vor allem der Kaffee war wieder ein Genuss. Kaffee können die Japaner.

    Nach Morgensport und Frühstück geht es ans eingemachte. Wir wollen das erste Mal mit dem Shinkansen fahren. Unser heutiges Ziel ist es in Nagano den Schneeaffen Park zu besuchen. Damit es etwas schneller geht teilen wir uns die Arbeit auf. Alex ist für Snacks organisieren zuständig, Michi fürs Koffer aufpassen und ich will die Sitzplätze reservieren. Das es so einfach dann doch nicht geht, stellen wir einige Minuten später fest. Alex ist nicht fündig geworden und ich konnte am Automaten nichts reservieren. Glücklicherweise saß immerhin Michi noch, wo wir ihn verlassen hatten und auch alle Koffer und Rucksäcke sind noch da.

    Mit vereinten Kräften und ein wenig Hirnschmalz, schaffen Alex und ich es dann doch noch die Plätze zu buchen. Nun aber schnell, denn in 25 Minuten geht der Zug. Einmal durch die Ticketkontrolle und durch die Menschenmassen und schon stehen wir am Gleis. Und das ist wirklich ein großartiges Erlebnis!

    Die Waggons sind am Gleis angeschrieben. Langes suchen und hin und her laufen wie bei uns, Fehlanzeige. Am richtigen Platz zeigt dir dann eine Linie wie und wo die Schlange zum anstellen verläuft. In Japan stellt sich jeder ordentlich an, lässt die Fahrgäste aussteigen und steigt erst dann ein wenn der Menschenstrom aus dem Zug versiegt ist. Stressfrei, organisiert und unkompliziert. Genau wie das Sitzplatz finden und Koffer verstauen. Dann geht es los, unsere erste Fahrt mit dem japanischen Schnellzug. Und was soll ich sagen, es ging wirklich schnell und super leicht.

    In Nagano angekommen dann der erste Schock. Wir wollten die Koffer ins Hotel fahren und stellen fest, unser Hotel ist 1,5 H vom Bahnhof entfernt. Zum Schneeaffen Park brauchen wir dann fast 3 H. Die Stimmung sackt aufs Tagestief. Der Plan ist aus dem Fenster. Nun stehen 3 deutsche Touristen ziemlich deppert schauen am Gleis und brauchen einen neuen Plan. Da es schon Mittag ist, wollen wir nun direkt zum Park und Koffer am Bahnhof lassen. Ein Hotel wird sich dann schon finden. Das Gebuchte haben wir storniert.

    Die Spinde finden sich schnell und nach ein wenig warten, hatten wir für alle 3 Koffer ein temporäres Zuhause gefunden. Weiter geht es zum Bus.

    Hier hatten wir definitiv mehr Glück als Verstand. Der letzte Bus Richtung Park fährt um 13:15 Uhr. Es war 12:50 Uhr. Aber moment, wann macht eigentlich der Park zu und wann fährt der letzte Bus zurück zum Bahnhof? Fragen über Fragen und wir merken, so richtig gut vorbereitet waren wir nicht. Die Stimmung versuchen wir uns trotzdem nicht verderben zu lassen und nehmen es mit Humor. Der Park hat immerhin bis 17 Uhr offen. 1 H brauchen wir hin, dann bleiben uns noch fast 3 H. Naja oder eben nicht ganz. Der letzte Bus fährt nämlich schon um 16:30 Uhr zurück und laut Google brauchen wir von Park zu Bushaltestelle 30 Minuten Wegzeit. Ein Fehler von Google? Wir hoffen, denn sonst verlieren wir eine weitere Stunde mit Hin- und Rückweg.

    Im Bus wird uns klar, das war ein Epic Fail mit dem Park. Also wollen wir Abends gleich weiter nach Kanazawa und dort 2 Nächte bleiben. Auf AirBnB ist schnell eine neue Unterkunft gefunden.

    Nach 1 H Busfahrt kommen wir um 14:15 Uhr dann auch schon am Park an. Und wer hätte es gedacht, Google hatte doch recht. Von der Haltestelle zum Eingang gehen wir 30 Minuten durch einen wunderschönen Waldweg. Am Park angekommen begrüßen uns auch schon zwei Schneeaffen die auf einem Dach sitzen. Hinter den Gebäuden erhebt sich eine Waldbewachsene Bergflanke, die auf einen traumhaft schönen Park schließen lässt. Die Aufregung steigt.

    An der Kasse dreht sich Alex plötzlich zu uns um und meint er habe gerade gehört wie die Besucher vor uns gesagt haben, heute sind keine Affen da. Ich schau ihn stirnrunzelnd an. Wie kann denn in einem Affenpark kein Affe sein? Wir sind dran und tatsächlich, die Kassiererin informiert uns, dass heute keine Affen da sind. Ungläubig schaue ich sie an.

    Wärend ich mich noch frage, was für eine Art Park das ist und warum niergendwo Schilder standen, haben die Jungs beschlossen sich das Ganze trotzdem anzuschauen. Schließlich sind wir jetzt schon bis hier her gekommen. Die paar Yen sind es doch bestimmt wert.

    Gesagt getan. Wir zahlen die Tickets, gehen durch den Eingang und stehen wenige Meter später oberhalb eines rauschenden Flußes. Die Landschaft ist spektakulär. Mitten durchzwischen die Bergen bahnt sich der Fluß seinen Weg. Bis zu einem Felsvorsprung können wir ihn sehen, dann biegt er ins ungewisse ab. Vor dem Fels ist schon ein Onsen Bad zu sehen. Aber leider ohne Affen. Doch einige Besucher halten vorbildlich ihre Kamera in die Höhe und fotografieren fleißig. Gibt es also doch Affen?

    Wir stellen uns zu der Gruppe und suchen angestrengt im Fels nach dem Fotomotiv und tatsächlich. Da ist etwas. Aber leider kein Affe. Es ist ein Stein, der einem Affen sehr ähnlich sieht und von vielen Besuchern offensichtlich für so einen gehalten wird. Wir schmunzeln und gehen weiter in Richtung Felsvorsprung. Hier hört der Weg dann plötzlich auf. Alex klettert wagemutig ein paar Steinterrassen nach oben um zu sehen wo es weiter in den Park hinein geht. Doch bevor er überhaupt da ist, wo er hin will, wird er von einem Mitarbeiter des Parks mit einer Pfeiffe angetrillert und herunter gewunken. Wir schauen uns verwirrt an. Das soll der Park sein?

    Tatsächlich. Für einen Moment müssen wir alle ausgesehen haben, wie ein Kind dem sein Lieblingsspielzeug geklaut wurde. Für 10 Meter Weg, einen rauschenden Fluss und ein leeres Onsenbecken sind wir jetzt bis hierher gefahren.

    Wäre der Tag nicht sowieso schon chaotisch gewesen, wäre die Stimmung jetzt vermutlich in den Keller gesunken. So haben wir einmal herzlich gelacht und uns auf den Rückweg gemacht.

    Kein Hotel, keine Affen und kein Park. Gut das wir nicht entschieden haben in Nagano ein neues Hotel zu suchen und erst Morgen in den Park zu gehen. Sonst wäre das wirklich mehr als enttäuschend gewesen. Mit knurrenden Mägen setzten wir uns in ein Cafe, essen lecker und freuen uns darüber, das wir Glück im Unglück hatten.

    Zurück am Bahnhof werden unsere Nerven noch einmal geprüft. Im Chaos des Mittags haben wir das AirBnB auf November, nicht Oktober gebucht. Ein zweites mal stornieren wir ein Hotel und getreu dem Motto “alle guten Dinge sind drei” fahren wir nach Kanazawa. Dort angekommen suchen wir unser wunderschönes Hotel, die happy Hours für kostenlose Drinks haben wir um 5 Minuten verpasst, aber wir buchen uns das Frühstück und fallen müde ins Bett.
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  • Day 18

    Jigokudani snow monkey park and Yudanaka

    April 11, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We had an early start and were on the train just after 7.30. We had two slow local trains taking us down to Toyama where we caught the Shinkansen through to Nagano. From here we took one final train up the valley to Yudanaka. The final train had the driver sitting above the carriage so you got great views from the front of the train.

    We arrived on time at 12.30 and walked the short distance to our hotel. The accommodation here is in the style of a Ryokan where you have to remove your shoes when in the building and the room is covered in tatami mats on the floor and traditional screens instead of doors once inside the room.

    We were able to check in and once we had sorted ourselves out we were offered a lift up to the entrance to the snow monkey park. From here it was a 30 minute easy walk to the area where the monkeys are. A particular troop of Japanese macaques have been bathing here since the 60's. The story about why they started to visit seems to have a couple of explanations but, evidently, they come down from the hills in the morning, lounge around in the hot springs or around the water all day, then return to the hills to sleep. They seemed completely unperturbed by the presence of the visitors.

    After spending around 45 minutes watching them we walked back down to the entrance where we had some food, a bowl of ramen. Next we walked back down the hill to the Ryokan and I took a trip to the hotels onsen. This is a room with a large pool in it filled with hot springs water. Men and women have to use different rooms and the expectation is that you enter naked. Fortunately, when I went, I had the place to myself! I didn't stay long though as the water was very very hot and constantly being topped up with fresh hot water.

    After cooling down we walked into town and eventually found a place for tea. The town looked largely shut up but the place we found when we opened the door was empty. The owner was friendly and despite her lack of English and our lack of Japanese we were able to order food.

    After we had eaten, the owner insisted on switching on the karaoke machine and wouldn't allow us not to take part. For the second time today I was glad that we were the only ones there. We both had a few attempts with the machine scoring you on each song for a range of things (which we couldn't understand but since included pouch, tone and timing).

    After a while we made our excuses and walked back to the hotel.
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  • Day 7

    Day 7

    March 7, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    SNOW MONKEY DAY!!
    Today was the day that we trekked all the way from Tokyo to Nagano to visit the snow monkeys of Jigokudani national park! This was a day trip I have been literally dreaming about as this is what first attracted me to going to Japan. I know that may sound strange- you want to go all the way to Japan to see monkeys? But yes I did!! The monkeys live in the mountains and during winter they come down to the onsen hot springs to bathe and warm up to survive the very bitter winters of Japan and I have been desperate to see this!

    The day started a little rocky when we bought the train tickets to get to Nagano as they were extremely expensive and very much over our budget for travel a day, but a small perk is that it was a bullet train which can get up to 200mph, and even with this speed it still takes 2 hours to get from Tokyo to Nagano! Once settled in we watched the skyscrapers zip past at top speed as we hurtled through the countryside which was a lot of fun. Once we crossed the border into Nagano the scenery very quickly became snowy and beautiful mountains covered the whole horizon looking like something out of a cgi screen, it’s definitely the most picturesque train journey I’ve ever taken!

    Stepping off the train a bitter cold wind hit my face and I quickly pulled out my hat and gloves and zipped my coat up to my chin.

    From Nagano station we had to take a 45 minute bus and to secure the tickets we had to get them out of a vending machine! We piled onto the bus with only about 10 other people and after steadily winding our way up through the mountains the bus came to an abrupt halt and the driver said something in Japanese which I assumed was “you are here”. Clambering down I looked around the snowy outcrop and realised we were in the middle of nowhere, as I turned to ask the bus driver which direction to go he sped off back down the mountain and out of sight. Slightly disgruntled we began walking up the mountain road hoping we were headed in the right direction. After a few minutes we saw a big sign saying “monkey park this way 2km walk”. Feeling more confident about our direction we picked up the pace until we reached the entrance of the park. Entrance is a slight over exaggeration, it’s a small gift shop at the bottom of a steep trail upwards with an arrow pointing up. We began clambering up the trail and following it as it meandered up.

    After about 10 minutes it flattered out and the huffing and puffing and rosy red cheeks subsided a little. The problem with this trail is that the snow had become so packed that it was like pure ice. It was incredibly slippy and every step felt like I might go slip sliding back down to the base and have to start again. But this would probably be the least of our worries if we did slip as running parallel to us was a very sheer drop down the mountain that didn’t look very survivable! After just over an hour of gingerly following the trail upwards we reached the snow monkeys. Huddled in groups to keep the warm in and wallowing in the hot springs it is just how I had imagined!! The area was almost empty of other tourists which was very lucky as in peak season it is apparnelty heaving but we were just outside peak so I guess that really helped and we seemed to time it well as when we left a huge tour bus arrived with quite the crowd of people all heading up the see the monkeys.

    Sitting near the hot springs I began to capture the snow monkeys scarlet faces and piercing hazel eyes. We watched them play together and saw mothers clinging to their babies to try keep them warm and of course, we saw many taking advantage of the natural hot springs looking more than content. After a while of just observing them and taking lots of pictures we felt like we had seen the monkeys in their full glory and I had lost feeling in my nose so we decided that it would be best to wind our way back down. Enjoying the scenic walk back we braved the ice death trap once more and timed it perfectly as a bus arrived just as we reached the bottom. We decided to head straight back to Tokyo as it was already 5pm and most things shut between 5-5.30pm so we hopped back on the bullet train and waved Nagano goodbye and started racing back across the country, we then finished off the evening with a glass of plum wine in our hostel bar which is DELICIOUS!
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  • Day 4

    Bei den Schneemakaken

    January 8, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ -9 °C

    Heute sind wir mit dem Shikansen von Tokio nach Nagano gefahren haben dort ein Auto ausgeliehen und sind direkt in die Berge ( Joshin’etsukogen National Park ) in den Jigokudani Yaen Kōen um die Affen beim Baden zu beobachtenRead more

  • Day 65

    Yamanouchi - Snow monkeys 🐒

    April 10, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Un’altra particolaritá della zona sono i macachi delle nevi. Questi primati vivono nelle montagne e al mattino scendono a valle per scaldarsi nelle pozze termali🐵

    E witteri Besonderheit i dem Tal sind die Snow monkeys. Die Affa leben im Wald aber jedi Morga kömed sie aba ins Tal zum sich ide Hotsprings ufwärma🐵Read more

  • Day 9

    D9 - Last snow day

    March 3 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ -5 °C

    It was a snowy morning when we looked outside. After breakfast we geared up, this time we added neck warmers and hoods. As a bonus the chair at out hotel was working again.

    So at 8:30am we joined the queue of people to ride the lift up. We were able to enjoy a powder run down C1 before it got all chopped up. There is something to be said for silent skiing, the quiet of powder.

    From this blissful first run, we headed over to the D4 run and onto the hooded quad. Here we had a play doing D1 and D2 with little crowd, and were able to still get some fresh tracks for about 3 runs. The kids were cold, the teen had not wanted a hood or neck warmer today. So the kids retreated with some yen to go get a hot drink at Prince East while the parents did a few more laps.

    Coincidentally the kids emerged, right when we were going to get them. Teen now willing to take a neck warmer and balaclava now joined us for another run or two. Then they got cold. So we were all feeling it, we headed up the quad and down to the gondola 2. From here we headed up the top and skied B2 to C1 to get us back to the hotel. C1 was a chopped up mogul hell, so the kids and I called it quits and hubby did one more lap, before ending his day.

    We then brushed off the skis and came and got the ski bags. We dried off all the gear and repacked the ski bags, sending them off to the airport. Best $80 ever spent. We also decided to send our main bag off to our hotel in Osaka, and will just travel with hand luggage for our few days in Nagoya. 160cm bag was $26, and we had it there just before their 3pm cut off.

    After all that work was done, an onsen was in order. And of course ice cream to follow.
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  • Day 8

    D8 - Last All-mountain Day

    March 2 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    When we stepped out onto the snow, light rain started to fall. Nothing like being wet first up in your day. At least it wasn't icy. We rode up to Diamond and down across to Family. Here we went down the black side and across to Tanne No Mori for a few runs. The kids love making their own path through the trees, hitting little jumps.

    After a play here we headed to my favourite area Nishitateyama. We did a few runs here then headed in, out of the wet to Aspen for snacks and an early lunch at 11am. Scored myself a custard bread, so I was happy. Hubby had the Kaarage again and Oscar had the pork cutlet curry. Dale had a cheese bread and then a custard bread. We headed out a bit before 12pm.

    The rain mostly held off, as we had dried out a bit, we then headed back up Nishitateyama- where they were setting up for a race, to Takamagahara. Here the kids wanted to do the mogul side, after this we went through Tanne to Family. It was at Family that we spent a bit of time until 2pm doing various runs. The snow was soft and provided good grip, it was not too chopped up, nor too slushy.

    We were buggered by 2pm and headed back for a run of Diamond, then headed back to the Prince. Here we had a play in the snow park on the snow bikes and toboggans. Onsen time was just after 3pm.

    We headed out at 6pm for a quick bite to eat at Ramen corner.
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  • Day 7

    D7- More all mountain

    March 1 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Our morning routine is just that now - routine. Today we headed off on the bus for Gondola 2 and made way for Okushiga kogen. It is a bluebird day with high temps in the low teens.

    We traversed the up hill both way traverse and enjoyed some runs down the Okushiga side. We made our way over to the chairs and the kids love the run through the trees with the animal spotting. We did this a few times on the slowest chair.

    Off to the left side was a nice untouched field of snow...well that was until we got to it. We did some snow flops, some angels and some playing around in the snow.

    After this we were hot, so went to the cafe, but decided to just grab some water and head over to Hi Happy for lunch. So we rode the three chairs up to get out of Okushiga and back over the the Yakebitaiyama side. Here we rode down B1 to C2. Hubby had a look at C4 and decided not to. We got on the chair to Diamond and rode down in to Hi Happy at 12:30.

    After more delightful pork katsu subs and a curry we left lunch at 1pm, very glad to get back out into the cool after the hot restaurant. Our destination was Terakoya, so we crossed the bridge chair and rode Family quad up, then traversed I to Terakoya. I liked it here and we did a nice red run, there was a bit of a crowd to ride the chair, the kids wanted to leave.

    Our next run there was a communication/navigation error, I steadily of going down to the chair at the bottom left, they took the traverse off to the left, that took us to Hasidate, Hoppo-bunadaira. So we followed this until the small old gondola. The gondola took us back up, and I was able to show them where the chair would have dropped us.

    We then rode down Family, across to Diamond and back to the Prince at about 3pm. Today was warm, the snow was a bit slushy, a bit sand like in places. But the blue sky and the views were always nice.

    We headed off to the Junk food cafe for dinner, hot dogs followed by crepes.
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  • Day 6

    D6 - Mt Yokoteyama

    February 28 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    The usual buffet breakfast was had, then we geared up and headed out about 8:30am destined for Mt Yokote. We did a quick traverse of Diamond, Family, Tanne and Takamagahara, then up and over the bridge to Nishitateyama. Here we then went up the gondola to the Yamanoeki where a bus was waiting just before 10am. This bus was packed, we managed to get on standing at the front door section.

    At Sun Valley another 4 people wanted to get on, we didn't think it was possible but they managed to squeeze onto the already crowded bus. It made for an interesting ride to Mt Yokote, where we arrived about a half hour later.

    After taking the two chairs up to the top at 2300m, we took in the amazing views. Then we stopped at the bakery for a custard bread or two at 11:30.

    We had a nice run down from Yokote, so we went back up the first chair to do it again. We then continued down and found our way over to Kumanoyu. Only two lifts were running here on the left side. We did one run down . The snow here was not as nice as that at Yokote. We then headed to the bus stop. Again the bus gods were shining and we only had a 4min wait, plus there was room on the bus!. Standing room, but we were on the bus.

    We then went down the gondola at Yamenoeki. And headed for the Nishitateyama chair, then rode up the hooded quad before coming down towards Takamagahara. It was just after 2pm and our destination was the pizza place on the same side of the street. Luckily it was open after 2pm. So a couple of pizzas and some awesome fries later we were fed.

    Heading off just before 3pm we departed our way up Takamagahara and then across to Tanne no mori for a few runs. Across to Family we went up the quad chair and back down the kids beloved green run (where they cut through the trees at every opportunity). Over to Diamond, where a race was had between hubby and the kids, for the last run of the day. Hubby won. So then it was back to the Prince with an obligatory snow fight on the run down. We arrived back at 4pm, absolutely buggered.

    Onsen time and ice-cream to follow, we didn't worry about dinner.
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  • Day 5

    D5 - All Mountain snow

    February 27 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    Today was an all-mountain day. We had bought 2 day all mountain passes in adult/child and adult/student packs. We had our usual full up at the breakfast buffet then geared up by 8:30am.

    We headed to Diamond, then spent did a few laps of Ichinose Family. The green run was a favourite as they could cut some corners and go off to the side and up some walls. From here we headed over to tanne no mori for a few runs amoungst the trees. Here Jason had a pretty good stack after a brush seperated his skis.

    After this we headed to Takamagahara, did a run or two, then headed down to Hoppo Bunadaira. This is usually one of my favourite places, but the snow was a bit crunchy and scraped over here and I wasn't feeling it. Hubby and the kids did another lap while I waited at Aspen Shiga.
    We had a delightful lunch here. The kids love the spaghetti, I had udon and hubby had what he proclaimed to be the best kaarage he has eaten.

    On our way out we saw snow monkeys were running around and climbing on the roof of the hotel. We watched the family of monkeys play and forrage for food for a bit. They were very close and had no qualms that people were all around.

    We then headed for the chair to the left of the gondola and headed up Nishitateyama. This was my favourite place for the day and the snow was good, soft with even cover. We did a few runs here, and then headed for home as we were a bit tired. So back up he chair and then headed down the other side crossing the bridge, which seemed much easier this year than those past.

    Our homeward journey had us revisit Takamagahara and Tanne no mori, the back to Family. A few runs here were had, and then son wanted a run of Diamond, so we ended up doing a few Diamond runs, before heading back to the Prince for a well earned onsen. It was about 2:30pm for our return.
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