Portugal Azambuja

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  • Day 8

    DAY 4 - To The Pain!

    April 22 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Finally was out of the city and industrial congestion today and promptly got lost among grape vines and other crops - along with some sheep. Started out early as today was to be. a 30 Km (20 mile) journey. Saw the Camino sign first thing, then never again. I was lost the entire day, but on a path passing by sheep, vineyards, train tracks, - all through agricultural farm land! I met a hard working and nice man from Pakistan working the fields. Saw a few others along my lost way, but no pilgrims. My highlight was seeing the herd of sheep! It made trudging through muck and mud worth being lost all day. I made it all the way to Santarem, er, Vale de Santarem, about 5.5 miles from my destination before my knees and feet gave out. I’ ve had meniscus knee surgery (3x) and foot surgery on both feet (at the same time). I knew 20 miles would put me to the limit and it did. Ended up Ubering the final 8.6 km. I decided I’d get a few more miles once in Santarém exploring. - which I did. My toes on both feet were red and swollen as well as my rt knee swollen from an injury I suffered at the end of March while in Bozeman. My nightly therapy has been a homeopath lotion mixture of arnica oil, comfrey, and dmso along with a host of other anti-inflammatory ingredients in addition to PEMF therapy. Check out research on these items. I started pemf after my last knee surgery in August and I have had just a couple migraines since vs having a couple per week. Yes, I brought my pemf machine and a massage gun! After all we have 20 kg per bag!

    I also started using my hiking poles and they help tremendously. I am using Leki brand, but any brand would work as long as they are the
    Right size and are used correctly.

    I am recharging/refueling in Santarem for the next couple of days. It is a beautiful city - a walled fortress! Reminds me of San Gimignano in Italy. I will post tomorrow all things Santarem - Casa da Alacova, 12 century host that bleeds! You got to see this, simply breathtaking, and much more.

    Another absolutely amazing day in Portugal!
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  • Day 7

    Day 3 - Endure

    April 21 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The word for the day is endure. It seemed like everyone I met on the Camino.
    felt the same - and I met/saw at least 1/2 dozen or more. We were all pilgrims traveling together today from the outset. The Camino took us through
    Agricultural and industrial areas of town. The smell of fertilizer mixed with diesel mixed with the stench of standing water might as well have been in the sewer!
    About 45 minutes in, I also took a wrong turn - check out my Oura pic and video. Was it me or was it the arrows leading me astray? Please leave your thoughts in the comments.

    It was at this point that it started raining and didn't stop until about 30 minutes out from Azambuja, I was at least prepared - or should have been. I started out late after checking the weather report, and rain was supposed to have stopped late .morning with clearing in the afternoon. So, most of us left late in the morning, and I didn't wear my waterproof socks as I had done the day before not needing them. I needed them today. Oh, well.

    We walked along a road parallel to the train tracks. You could feel the rush of air as trains passed at high speed. Then, there was the rush of vehicles passing on the narrow rainsoaked road.

    Stopped for lunch - steak, fries, and rice - chef choice. He spoke no English and I no Portuguese so Google Translate to the rescue.

    Finally, we got off pavement just after lunch and on a path made of dg. Hopscotching between puddles was better than hopscotching cars. Then The Way became a mud pit. That's where I let a fellow pilgrim be our fearless leader. Sometimes you lead, so.eti.es you follow, and so.etimes you work as a team to make it through as we ended up doing each through the mud pit (of despair).

    My lesson for today - just endure some days and be open to lead, follow, or work together as a team to make it through.

    It was a good day - not great, but good
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  • Day 19

    Der Sonne entgegen

    April 17 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Heute gibt es nicht viel zu berichten. Halber Tag war Paul in der Werkstatt und hat eine neue Gasflasche bekommen. Jetzt können wir immer und überall mit verschiedenen Adapter wenn nötig ist Gas tanken ⛽️ 😃. Jetzt fahren wir einfach der Sonne entgegen.
    Bin gespannt wo wir landen 🤔
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  • Day 9

    Day 6 - Arlene is fired!

    April 11 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

    “Some people walk in the rain, others just get wet.”—-Roger Miller

    Walked a little over 7 miles, mostly in the rain, to Vale de Figueira. Leaving Santarem the path led us down a narrow path through the woods that descended the hill upon which Santarem sat. Thankfully it was not raining yet but it was slippery from the previous night’s rain

    As we walked through the vineyards, yes more vineyards, the light drizzle turned into a steady rain and our ponchos came out giving us the appearance of Quasimodo. Even though it was raining and in the 60’s, the walk was invigorating.

    When the rain broke we found a semi dry place under a tree to eat our packed lunch. You forget how good a simple ham and egg sandwich on fresh bread can taste, washed down with a bottle of water

    When we finally made it to Vale de Figueira, since there were no accommodations, Arlene made reservations at a hotel she thought was only 3 1/2 miles off the path and the plan was to take Uber to hotel then Uber back to path in the morning

    Well Arlene has been stripped of her duties of finding hotels for us. The Uber ride was $25 euros and took us 20 miles off where we wanted to be. So we are spending the night in Alpiarca then in morning taking a train to Tomar to get back on the Camino path and then walk about 8 miles to Calvinos.

    We had a good laugh over a pizza dinner. And the bartender served me the largest gin on the rocks I’ve ever seen (he may have added some Sprite to it) and needless to say I did not drink it all!

    More rain predicted for tomorrow, but we will forge ahead.
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  • Day 8

    I'm in "WTF am I doing" mode.

    April 10 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    So, I chose to walk the Camino at this time of year, to avoid the heat of summer. Today was predicted to be in the high 70's with overcast skies all day and a 20% chance of rain. It started out overcast, but not cool and by noon was 80 and humid. By midday it was perfectly clear, 82, still oppressively humid and our walk was through farms and vineyards. Not a place to find shade. The constantness of being in the hot humid sun all day is beginning to take its toll. I am exhausted and having a hard time ignoring the piddly pains that come and go during the walk. Pilgrims say these days are the ones where the Camino challenges your brain. Today, my brain won out and convinced me it was just too hard.
    We made it Santerem, had a shower, a little rest, and dinner, and I am now ready to continue this challenge. But a few hours ago, I was ready to give up.
    Today we met an older gentleman from Amsterdam walking alone, a young man named La from So Korea, a group of about 20 Portuguese pilgrims from a church group on their way to Fatima, and 5 Australians and Canadians traveling together who were the least friendly pilgrims we have met til today.
    We also had our very first pilgrims meal. Bread, olives, water or wine, steak with an egg on top, French fries and rice, dessert and coffee or tea for 12,50euro. We added a salad and 2 cokes for an additional 3 50 euro. And it was a lovely restaurant with the nicest wait staff.
    Now that I am snuggled in bed with the ac on, all is once again right in my world. Ultreia!
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  • Day 8

    Day 5

    April 10 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    “Well I've been out walking, I don't do that much talking these days, these days.”—-Jackson Brown

    Walked 11 miles today to Santarem, Portugal. The walk again was mainly through vineyards and farms. It was overcast for a good portion of the day but when sun was out it was hot and humid! There was no cafes between our starting point and Santarem. But we had packed a sandwich and apple from the hostel we stayed at last night. Water was a concern but about a 1/3 way to Santarem there was a water fountain where we could fill up our bottles

    Met a Portuguese church group who was making their annual walk to Fatima from Azambuja. Although I think the heat got to them because we saw vans picking them up 1/2 way to Santarem where they said they were staying for the night

    I’m staying at a modern hostel and have a private room with bath. Feet and body are holding up. No blisters!

    I need to take pics of more locals. An elderly man who didn’t speak English but we could understand each other through limited phrases and hand gestures told me I needed a sun hat. I showed him that I had one and he said good. But I wish I would have taken his photo. His face was tan and deeply etched the way life has a tendency to do. And he had the most beautiful smile and sparkling eyes.

    Tonight had a lovely Portuguese pilgrim’s meal at restaurant the hostel recommended. Rice, pork steak with fried egg on top and a salad. All for 12,50 euros

    Another night falling into bed exhausted but feeling accomplished
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  • Day 7

    The Beauty Outweighs the Pain

    April 9 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    Thank you, Jayme for today's title! This is the perfect description of my day. The day started out beautifully, clear, sunny and cool, perfect for walking. But my sciatica was still a bother, and my blister was rubbing, then my back was hurting. But we left the industry of yesterday and entered into the farmlands and small vineyards. After a bit my body aches lessened and the beauty distracted me from any annoyances left over. It did get very hot and humid again this afternoon, but not enough to require a ride. We are now in Valada, at a small pension owned by an Urkainian woman who came here to escape the war 3 years ago. She made us a dinner which was yummy and has a wonderful patio to hang out and relax. Be sure to check out the captions on my photos to get the details of my filled in.Read more

  • Day 7

    Day 4 - The magic starts

    April 9 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    “Walking is the most perfect form of motion for a person who wants to discover the true life.” – Thoreau.

    I admit the first 3 days I questioned what the F am I doing? With the exception of a few places and the boardwalk it has not been a pretty walk. But today in the early morning as I listened to my Pavarotti favorites and hiked through pastures and vineyards, the magic hit me. As I did a 360 to take in my surroundings, I was overcome by the beauty and the tears escaped my eyes and rolled happily down my cheeks. The world felt at peace, as it should.

    Hiked about 8 miles from Azambuja to Valada. While it was sunny and hot, there was a nice breeze blowing through the farmlands. Physically felt great today. While your body always reminds you it is working hard, I think it is actually enjoying being pushed.

    On the way today an old gentleman in a wheelchair stopped me. He did not speak English and I communicated I did not speak Portuguese so he kept talking to me in Portuguese and I could decipher he was telling me to go to Fatima and that it was beautiful. He pulled out some printed pages and handed them to me, I thought he wanted to sell them so I offered him a few euros. No, no he said and indicated it was for me. Tonight I tried to translate and it was about how when his mother was sick she went to Fatima and I think was healed. And how he had walked there. And there was a prayer for his mother and pilgrims. At least I think it’s what it says. I’ll have to have one of my friends translate.

    Staying at a very pretty pension, Villa Rio by Valada Village. Had a delicious dinner and will sleep well tonight. Tomorrow we walk to Santarem.
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  • Day 6

    Call Me Richard

    April 8 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    I lost my sunglasses. And only 3 days into my walk. I will need to get new ones. If you know my husband, you know why today's post is titled this way.
    Today's journey too us from Vila Franca de Xira to Azambuja, about 14 miles. It was the worst walking day yet. It was very hot, 81 degrees, and no shade again. We were in the same industrial zone as yesterday, but yesterday the river was to our right and there were boardwalks so there was some prettiness. Today's walk was more similar to walking the New Jersey Turnpike through Newark. Well the highway was only one lane going in each direction, but there was no shoulder to move away from all the huge trucks barreling right beside you at 50-60 miles an hour. And the airplanes overhead were not commercial jets, but were small planes spraying who knows what. But the density of industry was pretty similar. There was not a single store or restaurant for the first 5 or 6 miles where we could get a water or snacks or go to the bathroom. We did finally find one small restaurant next to the train station where we stopped for lunch. The waitress asked if we ate chicken, so with no more conversation, we were brought a couple of fried chicken breast cutlets and French fries, no other option was given.
    Anyway, add to all this, hitting the body ache wall, me with my sciatica kicking up and Jayme having painfull hip and leg, we called Uber. Gotta love modern convenience! Of the 14 mile distance, we finished about 8.
    The good part of getting to the stay early is we got to do our laundry. I devised a system. I plug the bottom of the shower with all my clothes under my feet. I let all the soapy water from washing my hair and body fill into the bottom. I walk all over my clothes like I am stomping grapes. Then I drain the water. Do a little direct soap application on pits and crotch of items. Then I rinse, wring, wring again inside a towel, and hang to dry. ( note the hiking pole set up for small items) Voila! Clean clothes !
    Hopefully tomorrow will go better, but I'm not discouraged or unhappy yet.
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  • Day 6

    Day 3

    April 8 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    “Sometimes hitting the wall is life telling you to lean on it and rest”—-Anonymous. Today was a slog. Only walked 6.16 miles or 15,769 steps. It was another hot day, 80 degrees and the sun beating down, and the route was not the most pleasant. Very industrial and walking on streets with huge trucks whizzing by. They created so much wind it blew my hat off a couple times

    They say day 3 is when you typically hit the wall, I certainly did. Hot, exhausted, and a little unsteady on my feet. Anyone walking behind me would think I was drunk. So with 6 miles to go to the hotel and no end in sight to this industrial highway, we called an Uber to take us to the hotel. Camino pilgrims will tell you there is no shame in this because it’s more important to listen to your body. Arrived at hotel around 3p and collapsed.

    Most pics are from when we started out this morning. Even though it was not a picturesque walk, the day was brightened up by running into Lawrence from France again and Jan from Holland. Also met Alex from Denmark, Jorgan from Sweden, and 2 gentlemen from Germany: Flo and Tobias.

    Since we arrived at hotel early, we made it laundry day. When is the last time you took a shower and washed your clothes at the same time? By the way, treking poles make a great makeshift drying rack.
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