Río Bermaña

“The best and most beautiful things in this world cannot be seen or even heard, but must be felt with the heart.” – Helen Keller

Today was just a short 7 mile walk from A Portela - Barro to Caldas de Reis. It is also short on photos today Perhaps due to being lost in thought or too busy just enjoying the scenery.

There was some drama last night at dinner, but best shared over drinks 🤣. After an ok night of sleep, I got up early and since breakfast at the Aubergue did not look that appealing, I headed out, getting closer to Santiago with each step. It was a few miles before I found a cafe to get my morning tea and a lite bite to eat. I saw several people from last night at the cafe.

There was one family from Belgium that I found of interest. First, the father and son could be doppelgängers for a boy I went all through grade school and high school with. Second, I realized the son must be on the spectrum. He stares intently, speaks very softly, and has some odd behaviors; his name is Robin and he is very nice, just not the communicative. Normally when I see them on the path the family walks in a straight line with the dad, Luke, leading the pack, and the mother, Ingrid?, bringing up the rear. Robin is in the middle and it’s almost like they are protecting him.

However, later I saw Robin on the path alone talking to strangers. At first I was confused because his parents were no where in sight. But later they were together

After the stop in the cafe I saw the family again as they passed me, then in a few minutes I witnessed Robin walking back towards me. He stopped a little ahead of me and knelt down and kissed the ground. Then he continued on his journey in the right direction

About an hour later I spotted Robin in a field talking to a farmer and his dog. The farmer left leaving him in the middle of the farm with the dog. I didn’t see his backpack anywhere and thought maybe the family was staying there for the evening

Then, as I approached Caldas de Reis, about an hour or so later, I ran into his parents. They asked if I had seen Robin and where. I told them and his dad said ‘ah yes the farmer and the dog’ as if acknowledging Robin was fascinated by them. They then told me they allow him to go off on his own while they continue to walk and once they find a cafe or place to rest they ping him their location and wait for him to show up.

This story may bore you, but it fascinated me. Why? I had tried to engage him in light conversation several times last night to no avail. So I was curious as to the talks he was having with the strangers I saw him with or the farmer. I’ll never know and truth be told, it’s none of my business.

As I was exploring Caldas de Reis I ran into Laurent from France. Arlene and I met him on the Lisbon -Porto portion and then I ran into he and his family early on the Porto - Santiago Central Route. He looked like he had been in a bar fight. His nose was all bandaged up, he had a gash on his forehead, and was limping. He informed me he had slipped in the shower and unfortunately due to hitting his back during the fall, his Camino was ending. His family was continuing the walk to Santiago and he would take a bus or train there to meet them. No Compostela for Laurent. He was very sad.

Tonight I rented an Air BnB, a small apartment. I am enjoying the alone time and privacy. After visiting the laundromat, I picked up some meat, cheese, olives, and nuts; deciding to stay in and have a light dinner while enjoying the peace and quiet

Tomorrow I’m off to Pontecesures.Read more