Estella-Lizarra

Good morning amigos!

Today's walk from Puenta la Reina to Estellla commenced under clear, but chilly skies and I felt good out of the gates. As I left town, I crossed the beautiful Puenta la Reina, Queen’s bridge, that was built in the 12th century by the Queen of Navarre for pilgrims. It’s a beautiful structure and I have to keep reminding myself that much of what I am looking at has been there for more than a thousand years, and will probably be there for a thousand more.

At about 3kms into the day, however, a hill started that just wouldn't quit. It seemed to go on forever through Mañeru and then on to Cirauqui and it certainly got the heart racing. I'm still finding my ascents difficult and I think it's this chest infection that's inhibiting my breathing. On the way up, I decided to ignore it in the hope that it will go away – I'll let you know how that theory pans out!

After the initial shock of the ‘never-ending-hill’, the day turned pretty benign and I was able to get inside my head for a little ‘look-around’. Unfortunately, I found nothing, which might explain why I’m doing this walk – again! Still, it’s early days and something might turn up.

Cirauqui is one of the most photographed villages on the Camino and sits on top of a hill, surrounded by vineyards and crop acreage. As you approach, you are confronted by steep streets that are too narrow by today’s demands for easy access. I saw the local bread van have to do a three point turn, twice, just to turn two corners. As I got to the other side of the village, I took a breather and looked down over the remains of a Roman road that is still in place. While it might have worked a couple of thousand years ago, it’s a devil to walk on with today’s shoes.

As I was going along, I came across the local guardia who had stationed themselves at an intersection. They were really friendly and eager to ensure that pilgrims knew that they were around and looking out for our safety. In truth, it is a reality that they need to ensure the well-being of pilgrims, given the clear economic importance and significance of the Camino to local villages and towns. I saw them later in the day at Lorca and they were driving around and waving to everyone. One less thing to worry about for us.

At Lorca, I took a breather and met Ralf from Germany who has just retired and is “looking for myself.” After a lifetime of work in a job that he loved, he is suddenly confronted with retirement and the challenge of discovering who is the ‘Ralf-away-from-work’. He’s a good bloke and I hope to see him again to see how he is going in his quest. Both times that I passed him today he was “eating a banana for energy.” He love bananas. I also met Kerry from Brisbane who is taking 56 days for her Camino. I’m taking 33 walking days. She got caught in the blizzard on Saturday and is still recovering. She said that “there were tears inside.” If nothing else, I expect she will know more Spanish eight weeks from now than she does at the moment. There certainly seem to be more Aussies around this year. Maybe the Bill Bennett film: The Way, My Way, has something to do with that, you never know.

Then it was on to Villatuerta, which is more modern than the older villages I’ve been passing through. One thing is common though, whether old or new, I see very few locals out and about. I’m not sure if they’re hiding, or if many are deserting the villages for the bigger towns and cities, but it can get a bit spooky when you can’t see anyone around and, if you do, it is generally the older generation. Very few, if any, young people are visible in the country villages.

Finally, I made it to my accomm in Estella. Readers of my previous blog might remember that the Estella G&T came second in my previous Camino survey. Happily, Martin (who I now call ‘el Maestro’) who served me in 2023 and is still running the bar here, made me a (well, actually two) delicious G&Ts After missing out on the Gaucho Bar in Pamplona, I’m feeling that balance is restored in my world.

Observations from today. I’m starting to see more wineries and vineyards, and the broad acreage cropping over the last few days seems to have let go of the asparagus and legume crops to the more obvious wheat and rapeseed. I’m also noticing fewer cyclists, but what I am seeing is more signage directing cyclists off the walking trails and onto cyclist only paths. I’m wondering if pilgrims have been complaining about the ‘ciclistas’ and the authorities have responded. Make no mistake, I do like getting out on my bike from time to time, but when they sneak up behind you unannounced and, without ringing their bell, decide that they are going to pass you on a narrow trail, it can make you a little less forgiving than you might otherwise be. Finally, my original theory that there are no bad reds in Spain is holding up.

Personally, my wheels are good – no blisters, touch wood – and I’m feeling more balanced and into my Camino mood and routine. The weather looks good and it’s another eight days until Burgos, my next rest day.

For today’s Efren video, click here. Efren actually travels to Azqueta which is a little further on from my stop here at Estella.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VO_knGXeB4&amp…

Distance today: 23.1kms
Total distance travelled so far: 113.2kms (my first 100k locked in!)Read more