traveled in 9 countries Read more Chicago, United States
  • Day 22

    The Electric City

    September 21, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Schenectady is a much smaller city than I was imagining, but it made up for size in it's delectable snack options. I finally got a slice of NY pizza, and we wandered into some tattoo shops to see if we could decorate our cyclist thighs. We got lucky and some artists had availability! I love my shaggy new friend and Andrew got mountains added to the goat he got during our Glacier National Park trip.

    We also wandered into a tea/lunch place where we had one of the best meals of our lives. A ratatouille crepe, red pepper tomato soup, and a forest berry scone. I had been craving fresh fruits and vegetables after trying hard to finish the oatmeal/backpacking meals we had brought - this place hit the spot.

    Schenectady is where George Westinghouse invented the rotary engine and where Thomas Edison founded General Electric, so we wandered to the Museum of Science and Innovation but it was closed. More interesting to me is that Kurt Vonnegut worked here at GE and this is where he ultimately decided to quit and become a writer.

    We got a great deal on a historic hotel that seemed to be completely empty (including staff) but no complaints here. We've spent most of the last three weeks sleeping outside on the ground so a night on the 8th floor of a potentially haunted inn was fine by me!

    We have one more ride to get in, from the Amtrak station in Chicago back to our house. Almost there!
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  • Day 21

    Mohawk River

    September 20, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Our last day was so easy it felt anti-climatic. 42 flat, paved miles on the Erie Canal/Mohawk River Trail. It almost felt like we were going downhill the whole time but I think my legs are just unused to the flatlands now.

    Neither of us have ever been into trail riding much. It's nice to be away from traffic but it gets boring quick. We played increasingly challenging games of 20 Questions (no limit on questions edition) to pass the time and suddenly we were at our lunch stop in Amsterdam, where there was one of the most beautiful sculptures I've ever seen. A quick couple hours later we made it to Schenectady. Some people just take the trail the whole way across New York. We got lucky that a fellow bike tourer friend warned us off this, because even one day on a trail is enough to make me want to jump ship.
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  • Day 20

    Last day in the dacks

    September 19, 2022 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

    We had a merciful, gentle descent out of the Adirondacks: pavement so fresh it was streaming, enough hills to keep things interesting but an overall loss of elevation all the way back to regular old beautiful upstate NY.

    I always enjoy passing by cows and horses. They're generally intrigued by cyclists, and sometimes I feel like they'd be into some good nose scritches.

    The day got a little more dramatic after First Lunch (chips, Snickers, and half a cliff bar each) when clouds started rolling in. We didn't make it long in the absolute maelstrom that followed. Riding in the rain is fine, but it was objectively dangerous to be out on the road so we took shelter in the first place that appeared. Which HAPPENED to be an ice cream-snack stand-campground with a covered pavilion. Well, that was that! How could we leave?
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  • Day 19

    Rest

    September 18, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Another rainy day off! We did catch a break this time, though, because there was a picnic shelter to hang out in. Got some drawing done, played games, spent a silly amount of time balancing my camera on a rock to take a picture...All in all, just what the doctor ordered for our weary bodies.

    When the rain quieted down, we biked three hilly miles to and from the camp store, motivated by ice cream and the need to grab lunch provisions for tomorrow. Well, they had the ice cream, but lunch tomorrow is gonna be potato chips and candy....
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  • Day 18

    Same day, new day

    September 17, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Traveling by bike really distorts and stretches your sense of time. Days feel like weeks, weeks feel like years. So sometimes when you have a rough day, in the end, it can also be a pretty great one. We had planned on cooking dinner at camp, but were so exhausted we just picked up some sandwiches for the road. The rangers at Moffit Beach State Park were super nice and warned us that our chosen campsite was over two miles away, so they helped us pick a closer one and let us know where we could get wood. We munched on chips by the fire and slept very well in the first comfortable temperatures we've had in a while. Another 55 miles in the books.Read more

  • Day 18

    Rough riders

    September 17, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Today is one of the hardest days of riding we've had so far. The climbing is average, the weather is fine, we had a great morning in Schroon Lake checking out the foggy sunrise and munched on some warm cranberry muffins. Yet we're both struggling. Tired, like we've been climbing mountains for days or something, I dunno.

    Luckily we have some trail pizza to keep us going and a day off in one last state park tomorrow.
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  • Day 17

    Perfection achieved

    September 16, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    If you go long enough, you do *eventually* end up with good riding conditions. It took us 600 miles, but here we are.

    Today: 45 miles. The perfect distance. No rain, no dirt road or single-track trails, partly sunny but not too hot. Wide shoulders and smooth asphalt, markets with fresh homemade blueberry muffins, climbs steep enough to make you feel accomplished but not so steep you have to walk, and long, gentle descents through the alpine forest to beautiful Lake Schroon, where we got some KILLER anchovy artichoke pizza.

    You know that amazing Ticonderoga pencil smell? This whole place smells like that.
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  • Day 16

    Winter is (also) here

    September 15, 2022 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 48 °F

    After a beautiful day of climbing several thousand feet up to and past Lake Placid, we spent a day off considering hiking up a mountain, noping out after a mile, and literally standing in the sun all afternoon basking in the gloriousness of doing nothing but trying to stay warm. Consecutive nights in the 30s aren't what I signed up for, but that's how mountains do, and I'm just happy to be here (and by "here" I mean "right next to the fire").Read more

  • Day 16

    Do or donut. There is no try

    September 15, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    It's been a bit chilly for ice cream, so Andrew and I have been collecting coffee and donut samples across the Adirondacks. For science! After much research and despite claims to the contrary and more appealing marketing at Glazing Saddles, we decided that the BEST donuts in the Adirondacks are found high up in Lake Tupper at Washboard Donuts and Laundromat (yes seriously). Now you know!Read more

  • Day 16

    Soggy bottom

    September 15, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Lake Eaton stayed rainy as we left so we made and ate breakfast in the recycling center, like a couple hi-vis raccoons. It was literally the only shelter in the whole park besides the bathrooms.

    The whole place is guarded by an electric fence at night to keep bears out. Reminds me of a quote from a documentary (or something) I saw on the topic: The hardest part about designing bear-proof infrastructure is that there's a lot of overlap between the smartest bears and the dumbest humans. As a dumb human, I can confirm that recycling is hard sometimes, so I'm glad this park made it so easy!

    Anyway, the rain didn't stop us from enjoying another great mountain ride, and when the sun FINALLY came out we were rewarded with a gorgeous view of a mountaintop wetland
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