• Karen Fig
  • Karen Fig

Upstate New York

The Empire State Read more
  • Trip start
    August 31, 2022
  • Finger Lakes

    September 4, 2022 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

    Whew! I struggled today. 58 miles of rolling hills. Andrew stayed with me the whole time despite my whining about my swollen wasp-stung leg and generally tired body. We had lunch at a vineyard on Seneca Lake and are spending a rainy night in Cayuga Lake. I think this might be the middle finger??

    Kung Pao Chicken from a bag for dinner, banana nut cake from our RV neighbor Jean who begged us to take it. I'll never turn down free cake on a bike trip. A couple days ago some Seattleites gifted us some gummies. Again, twist my arm! We must really look the part of sore hungry cyclists.
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  • It's gonna be a soggy day

    September 5, 2022 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

    But a dry hotel and a day off waiting for me at the end!

    Also, "rain on tent" is literally one of my favorite calming white noise choices so I am really relishing these moments before getting out of "bed"Read more

  • Drenched

    September 5, 2022 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 68 °F

    Yep, called it. We were downright dripping through most of our ride today. It would have been an easy straight-shot 25 miles from our campground to Ithaca today, but we figured, hey, let's go see Finger Lakes National Forest on our way. What's another 10 miles?

    Reader, those ten miles were uphill in pouring rain and dirt road. I could barely see. And for some strange reason, both of us were tired. Like we had biked 60 miles the day before or something. We turned off at the first sign of pavement and sought much appreciated refuge at a coffee shop. Decided we had seen enough of the forest and to go see Taughannock Falls instead (only 3 miles out of the way - at this point more our speed).

    This was a good decision because there was a beautiful 10 mile downhill trail into town after that - a welcome change for the last of our riding.

    The second cheapest hotel in Ithaca is nestled between a Walmart and two oil change shops in the most cyclist-unfriendly spot possible. We were only a couple miles from downtown but decided not to bike since even our rain gear was saturated and it was still raining. The only Lyft driver in the city was unavailable and the bus wasn't for an hour, so we got umbrellas and walked, only to get drenched (again) in our clean dry clothes by a passing car. Then, the restaurant we were heading to, one of the only ones open in town, turned us away because they were too busy. The journey to our 250 mile celebration dinner was turning into a comedy of errors. We ducked into the next open spot and our luck changed. They had two seats outside (well covered). The food was a bit fancy but extremely fairly priced. We feasted on pickled beets, fish sauce glazed brussels sprouts (some of the best I've ever had), brisket and fried chicken sandwiches, and an entire bottle of local wine, from the year of our last bike trip together (2017). The Finger Lakes are apparently the top wine producing region in the country. Given my complete lack of expertise and sample size of 1, I can confirm this!

    After dinner we walked around to look at more waterfalls but it was too dark, so we just listened to them roar. It was nice. The geography of this place seems kind of dangerous for anyone in a drunken condition (lots of gorges right next to the sidewalk! The Ithaca is Gorges people weren't kidding!!) but we survived (I was the only one in danger -half a bottle of wine while tired and dehydrated took it's toll...)

    By 10:30, the Only Lyft Driver in Ithaca was finally available to take us back to our comfy bed (!!) so we didn't have to brave the puddle showers again. Overall, a long but rewarding adventure of a day. More rain tomorrow. We'll see what the day off brings
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  • Ithaca

    September 6, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Our day off was also very wet. We visited Cornell, hoping to see their ornithology lab and botanic gardens, but the weather didn't co-operate. At least we got a nice view at the top of the super steep hill it lives on (so steep I wouldn't bike up OR down it)...

    Ithaca is truly beautiful, you can't shake a stick without seeing a waterfall and they had really great local bread, but after a week on the road my tolerance for urban life is low and I'll be glad to move on.

    The hotel within our budget wasn't a whole lot less damp than our tent anyway and at least our tent isn't haunted
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  • Harriet Tubman

    September 7, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Harriet Tubman escaped slavery and purchased a home in Auburn, NY, which she shared with her parents, husband, and cared for others needing safety. She eventually purchased land attached to the property and opened a home for the aged, which she ran and funded herself. Despite serving as a spy, nurse, and commander during the American Civil War, she only ever received a partial military pension over two decades after her service.

    Her home is currently being restored and maintained by one of the families that lived there after she passed. Despite being a "partner" of the National Park Service, the site receives no federal funding. The programming there is excellent and important. I left inspired and amazed at her commitment to justice and freedom. Lincoln gets way too much credit for what a community of abolitionists worked for years to accomplish.
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  • Have a beautiful now

    September 9, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Somehow on most of my bike trips I end up staying at some sort of community house at least once and it is always a delight. An acquaintance from long ago (and fellow bike tourer) hosted us at his beautiful artist/activist shared house in Syracuse and it was so wonderful. To sleep in a bed, to use a kitchen, to have a conversation over coffee on a lovely porch and admire the murals. We walked a block to the local Korean joint and impressed the owner with how much food we ordered (and finished).

    Today we're back on the canal. It's undeniably great for turtle and heron watching, and seeing a lock in action was pretty cool, but I'm ready for the mountains ahead
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  • Cobblestone Castle

    September 10, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    On our way up a mountain we came across "Cobblestone Castle," a delightful and imaginative playground/art installation/repurposed junk world among the trees. The artist, Mike, was there, a really nice guy, doing his best to just create. I thought it was pretty cool. If you ever head into the Adirondacks, stop by!

    I had seen a road killed raccoon with a fairly intact sun bleached skeleton down the road and lamented having to leave it behind. I thought Mike might be able to make some use of it - someone should! He thanked me for the tip :-)
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  • Adirondacks ho!

    September 11, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Folks, we have liftoff! We have climbed THOUSANDS of feet (literally) and are in the MOUNTAINS. Look at those trees! Smell that delicious alpiney oxygen! Is it better than regular oxygen? Yes!

    We scheduled a "day off" after our first big climbing day during which we were simply going to move from one campground to another, but one thing led to another and we ended up biking 8 miles through some steep hills. AGAIN. Our second day off in a row which turned out to be fake news. We did eventually find some time to look at a pretty lake in some Adirondack chairs, which aren't like, the most comfortable, but are everywhere around here (weird). We also already saw one bear in our first campground, which was a little disconcerting. The conversation with the ranger at our second campground wasn't heartening:

    Ranger: this is BEAR country. We DEFINITELY have bears. Put your food in your CAR. LOCK your car.

    Us: um, we don't have a car.

    Ranger: oh, well, I wouldn't worry about it then.

    Us: We saw one last night at the campground 5 miles away.

    Ranger: oh...yeah...I mean, they don't come HERE too much...

    🤔
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  • 10 miles

    September 12, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Me: I don't gravel bike, especially on hills
    New York: The hell you don't!

    At least it was good practice, and we didn't run into any bears

  • First day off

    September 13, 2022 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    First REAL day off, I mean, like we rode zero miles on our bikes, didn't even look at the things

    ...It rained most of the day. Typical

    We made the best of it and went for a hike with the cheap emergency umbrellas we bought for our first day "off" in Ithaca. Man these things have come in handy! We also played a lot of dice in the tent and treated ourselves to some tasty sodas for dinner (carried uphill in glass bottles - not an insignifcant task!).

    All in all, not a bad day, and my body needed it - we rode for 14 consecutive days!
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  • Soggy bottom

    September 15, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Lake Eaton stayed rainy as we left so we made and ate breakfast in the recycling center, like a couple hi-vis raccoons. It was literally the only shelter in the whole park besides the bathrooms.

    The whole place is guarded by an electric fence at night to keep bears out. Reminds me of a quote from a documentary (or something) I saw on the topic: The hardest part about designing bear-proof infrastructure is that there's a lot of overlap between the smartest bears and the dumbest humans. As a dumb human, I can confirm that recycling is hard sometimes, so I'm glad this park made it so easy!

    Anyway, the rain didn't stop us from enjoying another great mountain ride, and when the sun FINALLY came out we were rewarded with a gorgeous view of a mountaintop wetland
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