• Bodensee

    14 settembre 2019, Germania ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

    Last night I enjoyed sunset on Lake Constance, then took a full moon ferry to Switzerland on the other side.

    I have lots of updates about the mountains to get to when I have wifi again, but I wanted to at least share that I did not freeze to death, but have merely been alone without service in the mountains for a few days.

    43 more miles.
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  • There will be no intermission

    11 settembre 2019, Germania ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    When I was 15, my dad took me to a concert at the metro in Wrigleyville with my best friend, Amy.

    We went to see the Dresden Dolls, and afterwards we got cheese fries at Wrigleyville Dogs across the street. It was back in the day of all-ages shows and smoking in bars. They played punk-cabaret and I was enraptured with the singer, Amanda Palmer, who was so raw and honest and personable.

    Over the years, I have watched from a distance as she went from punk singer to piano-playing songwriter extraordinaire. She is always pushing boundaries, highly controversial, and though imperfect (who isn't?), immensely inspiring to me for her honesty and compassion.

    She used to live in Regensburg, Germany, and while I was there I realized she was playing a show the same night that I had decided to take a day off, a short train ride away in Munich.

    She has always cultivated a kind and generous community online, and before I even had time to make a decision about going, a fellow fan offered to host me in her home so I could go to the show and not have to worry about finding a hostel.

    It turns out she is a construction site manager and bicycle tourer.

    I don't believe in fate, but it was obviously fate.

    So I went to see Amanda Palmer, and just like every other time I've seen her, it was an uplifting and beautiful experience. She talked about motherhood and abortion, about autonomy and responsibility, art and politics. And she played the piano.

    It was a perfect show to see while bike touring. This is when I feel free and inspired to be a better person, when I am extra susceptible to such influence.

    I had been sorry to miss the show when she came to Chicago, but now I know. Fate
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  • Regensburg

    10 settembre 2019, Germania ⋅ 🌙 55 °F

    Nobody wants to hear this, but I nearly had a very bad crash today. Literally one mile from the city, my handlebar bolts loosened and I spent a terrifying five seconds or so imagining how terribly this was going to hurt and how hopefully I didn't die, but surviving a crash like this seemed pretty inconvenient, too, and there was just no good way out, and I hoped no one would be put off from cycling forever because of this, etc.

    Luckily, I lost a lot of momentum at the bottom and was able to brake enough to coast to a stop without falling. One of the bolts was stripped, but I tightened the rest enough to get me to my hostel. It should be an easy replacement.

    It was a very stressful end to a rough several days.

    I decided to take a day off to re-evaluate my trip (my initial 80-miles-a-day plan was a bit ambitious given the weather and the climbing....have I mentioned the climbing?), work on my bike, hydrate, figure out the rest of my route, do some laundry, catch up on these posts so no one worries I've crashed my bike (only almost), clear my head, you know, "rest." I wasn't scheduled to do all of this until Friday, but I think it's time.

    Anyway, Regensburg was one of the cities I was most looking forward to visiting, so I am not disappointed to have to spend a little extra time here.
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  • Eating my feelings

    9 settembre 2019, Germania ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    When it never stops raining

    1. Anchovy pizza (I ate the whole thing in about 15 minutes)

    2. Danube riverfish and potato salat

    3. Spaghetti alla carbonara. Pasta, eggs, pork, and cream: the highest density of calories in a food that was available after climbing a mountain

    4. Fried mountain cheese patties

    5. Ice cream, of course

    I'm still hungry
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  • Fog

    8 settembre 2019, Austria ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    Austria gifted me with about five glorious, rainless hours, but they were not enough.

    I'm feeling weary. Of the weather and the wind, of having a cold and being cold. But it is beautiful.

    I camped in the yard of a nice penzion, which is like a bed and breakfast. You know those 5,000 piece puzzles of the Alps that were really popular in the 90s? I was always like, who does those?

    The owners of penzions in Austria, that's who.
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  • It's all downhill from here, for today

    8 settembre 2019, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    This is an unpopular opinion for a cyclist, but I'm not crazy about downhills. I think they're scary and I spend them worrying that I'm going to break my neck in the European countryside.

    So, while I was looking forward to being done with so much climbing, I was a bit nervous about riding into Linz, Austria, because it really appeared to be at the bottom of a cliff.Leggi altro

  • The hardest day, but harder

    7 settembre 2019, Repubblica Ceca ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    When I planned this trip, I was a little nervous about heading from Prague into Austria. I knew the mileage was ambitious, and that the days would be long and challenging.

    As apprehensive as I was, I still WAY underestimated how difficult it would be. After the first day, I thought, "wow, that was one of the hardest days I've ever had on a bike."

    The hills of Bohemia are endless. And they are not "rolling" hills. They are the kind of hills where you are nearly vertical both ways. I often had to walk my bike going down after spending a very long time getting up one. So that was yesterday. It was rough.

    Today was harder than yesterday. By a lot.

    I climbed mountains ALL DAY. I was literally climbing between 2-3mph for HOURS. And then I got a terrifying downhill. AND THEN I HAD TO CLIMB ANOTHER MOUNTAIN.

    Also, it was raining.
    And I have a cold.
    It got dark.
    I kept going.
    I kept going until I could not go anymore, and I still did not make it to Austria.

    People. I cannot even believe today was real.

    I ended up in a hotel because my tent and I were soaking wet

    Also cause
    I deserve it
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  • Communism and clowns

    5 settembre 2019, Repubblica Ceca ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    I did not research Prague at all before going there. I was a totally blank slate, so besides eating my way through the city, I decided to focus on two significant parts of the culture: history and art.

    As far as history goes, I visited the Museum of Communism, which was amazing and probably one of the most educational and interesting museums I've ever been to. I actually spent a good amount of time this spring listening to Russian history podcasts (I watched Chernobyl and immediately wanted more), so I had a good primer as far as the USSR and what it was all about.

    Still, is shocking how little I was taught of world history in school. And it seems like, the more I try to catch up, the more there is to learn.

    Anyway, the museum gave a general history of Czechoslovakia and the Czech Republic up through Nazi occupation, and then focused on life under communist rule.

    Damn, man. It is frightening to see the parallels between the fascism of the late 20th century and the direction of US culture and policy today.

    Going to this museum was one of the highlights of the entire trip, for sure.

    In terms of art, I decided on a Black Light Theatre show, which is unique to Prague and uses blacklights to create visual effects resembling magic. The show also incorporated acrobatics, puppets, and was entirely mimed, so it was universally understood. It felt very creative and weird and lighthearted. Kids and adults were both laughing. There were multiple layers to the humor.

    It wasn't the kind of theatre that I typically frequent, the kind with a strong message, usually political. But all the same, it felt important to laugh after the darkness of the museum of communism, and inspired and delighted me. Art fills in so many spaces in life.

    Not bad for a single day in Prague.
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  • Things I ate

    5 settembre 2019, Repubblica Ceca ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Most of the time I eat bread, cheese, fruit, and nuts. It's cheap, easy, and requires little refrigeration or cooking

    But obviously I gotta try the local cuisine when I can. I was excited to eat in Prague because the Czech food is more interesting than German, and also it's cheap as hell. Pictured:

    1. Pork knuckle (knee), crusty bread, pickled peppers, mustard, horseradish
    2. Sausage, potato dumplings, cabbage
    3. Braised beef smothered in pureed veggies, cranberry sauce, (unsweetened) whipped cream, and a lemon. Served with bread dumplings. Sounds weird but it was very tasty! It's called svíčková. And omg, bread dumplings are amazing.
    4. Czech pancakes. They are much smaller and denser and I'm a fan. Served with....plum? I think. And unsweetened whipped cream. Also a fan.
    5. I didnt eat this but these chimney cakes are traditional desserts. They're spun and roasted over a fire, dusted with sugar, and then filled with ice cream!
    6. Gingerbread is also very Czech, apparently. There was gingerbread everywhere. This guy was quite tasty.
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  • 265 miles later: Prague

    5 settembre 2019, Repubblica Ceca ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    265 miles later: Prague

    Five stars for the pastries and bread dumplings, for the gorgeous buildings and inspiring theatre and puppetry, for your resilient belief in freedom and beauty after decades of horrific repression.

    One star for cobblestone bike lanes. Ouch.

    I didn't spend as much quality time with a wifi connection as I wanted, there's much more to post. Eventually....
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