Combined sightseeing, pilgrimage, and volunteer trip Läs mer

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  • Spanien
  • Italien
  • Förenta staterna
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Backpacking, Kultur
  • 10,9kantal resta miles
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  • 77fotavtryck
  • 25dagar
  • 590foton
  • 357gilla-markeringar
  • Travel days

    27 februari, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    Sorry, I did not get anything posted yesterday. We spent most of our day either going to or from airports, waiting, and flying. We made our flight from Rome to Madrid. Nothing much to report. This morning, we are eating an early breakfast and then we catch a train to Pamplona to begin our next steps as pilgrims on March 1.Läs mer

  • Made it to Pamplona

    27 februari, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    We got up really early to eat at the breakfast buffet, then took the hotel shuttle back to the airport and then the commuter train into town.

    Our train to Pamplona was 3 plus hours, and we walked about 30 minutes to get to the albergue. This is kind of a "mega" albergue with 112 beds. They are about half full tonight. Washers are free. Dryers are 1 euro, so we are washing up our undies again before moving on tomorrow

    We'll go shopping as soon as Phil finishes his shower. Need stuff for supper, breakfast, and tomorrow's lunch. The bus tomorrow to Roncesvalles leaves at 1:30 so we have time to walk around. We've been here several times.
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  • Roncesvalles

    28 februari, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    We had a pretty good night at the big albergue in Pamplona. It was noisy initially, but I slept a full night after that. We got up and had breakfast, and we're some of the last out at 8 am.

    We walked to a coffee shop near the bus station and we were basically waiting until our bus came at 1:30. We met a couple of other Americans also waiting for the bus. There were only 6 of us on the bus today, and we arrived early.

    The hospitalera welcomed us warmly. The dorm is in a renovated part of the winter albergue. Washers and dryers are free!

    We will go to church at 6 pm. Supper is at 7 pm. We don't have far to go tomorrow, so we might try to get Phil a haircut along the way.
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  • Beginning the Camino de Santiago

    1 mars, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    It was a lovely evening. There were about 30 pilgrims in two dorms last night. We met lots of new people who were walking the Camino for the first time and a few that were veteran walkers.

    This albergue is staffed by volunteers from the Dutch Confraternity of St James. Their coordinator had contacted us a few weeks ago and asked to do a story for their newsletter. They have a monthly spotlight of volunteers, and Phil and I are a known entity on the volunteer front. The volunteer in duty took several photos of us. It was almost embarrassing to have so much attention. The interview will take place by phone while we are volunteering in Grañón.

    We attended Mass and helped bring pilgrims up for the special blessing at the end. The priest didn't speak English but welcomed everyone warmly. He had a beautiful, strong singing voice, and he and the few regulars sang a special song just in honor of pilgrims.

    After Mass, we went to a community supper in a local restaurant. The menu never varies, but it is always good. I had pasta, followed by chicken and potatoes. My dessert choice was cheesecake, which the others all shared since I don't eat dessert. Others had fresh vegetable soup, grilled trout, and potatoes with ice cream.

    We were tired and went straight to bed. I had a top bunk again. We were right by the bathroom door, so the automatic light kept me awake much of the night. I finally got up at 5:30. Phil got up about 6:30 and we left the albergue about 7:30 to walk to the next town for breakfast.

    We had a couple of coffees and split an omelet sandwich . We said goodbye to several of our new friends there as they were walking much further today than we were.

    We stopped at the grocery store to get supplies since our town tonight does not have a store. Then we went to a recommended hairdresser to get Phil's haircut. We were still very early for our checkin at the next town, so we stopped for another coffee to get fully caffeinated.

    We arrived at noon, and the owners let us leave our bags. We went to the local restaurant for lunch and had ham and eggs. We met another pilgrim from Belgium while there.

    After checking in at 2 p.m., we showered, washed our undies, and took a nap. We have a bedroom with twin beds and a shared bathroom. Our current housemates just arrived. They are two ladies from Holland on bikes. I think there will also be another couple before too long. It is interesting to see where everyone is from.

    Tomorrow, we walk about 15 km or just under 10 miles to our next town.
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  • A little snow and a steep hill

    2 mars, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    We had a good night in Espinal, and when we woke up today, it was lightly snowing. We had about 9 1/2 miles to walk. We bundled up with a windbreaker under our coats and headed out. It was 31 degrees out.

    We walked through some pretty country and saw sheep, horses, and cows. We stopped for coffee and a second breakfast at about 10:30 am.

    Then the fun began. We marched up a very steep hill and then down a very steep hill that had slippery rocks for about 2 miles before we arrived at Zubiri, our final destination.

    We both have bottom bunks tonight. The steep downhill really took it out of us. We rested and will go have some supper in a bit.
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  • Trinidad de Arre

    3 mars, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    We had a long walk today, but the weather was good. Phil walked for a few miles with a young Sergeant in the Dutch Army and compared notes from an old soldier to a new one.

    We paid a visit today yo a Convent that has an albergue where we might volunteer in the future. We were warmly welcomed offered coffee and given a tour of the church and albergue. It was a nice visit.

    Tonight we are just outside Pamplona at a very old and historic albergue. We just met the other guest who is German and invited him to share our supper. Tomorrow we will take a bus around a very steep hill with a rocky descent.
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  • Jumping ahead to avoid a hill

    4 mars, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Tonight, we are in Urtega. Phil had a tough time with the slick and rocky descent at Zubiri, so we decided to take the bus ahead around the big hill called Alto del Perdon because it was also very rocky and dangerous coming down.

    The bus let us off one town away, and we walked about 30 minutes. The albergue agreed to keep our backpacks as we arrived very early. We walked about 6 miles round trip to see a famous chapel called Eunate. It has 8 sides and was built in the 12th century. The history is a little fuzzy. Some believe it was a Templars church. Others think it was another order of knights (knights of Santiago or knights of Jerusalem).

    It was beautiful walking weather, and many early spring trees were starting to bloom. No rain, and it was cool, but not cold.

    We are trying to figure out tomorrow.
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  • A mix up on towns

    5 mars, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    We walked a little further than expected today. It was a lovely day fo4 walking. The sun was shining, and it was not windy. The temperature was cool.

    We had a good breakfast with a pilgrim from Italy at our albergue. We walked to the next large town of Puente la Reina or "Bridge of the Queen." There we stopped and had a big lunch because our place tonight does not do supper, and there is no store in the town.

    After lunch, we walked 5 km or about 3 miles to the town where we thought our beds would be, but it was the wrong town. Our place was another couple of miles further!

    The owner had an appt today in another town and won't be home until after 6 pm, so we had plenty of time to walk. The bar nearby is closed until 6 pm, so we are waiting in the town square until he gets back. Tomorrow, we walk to Estella. We served there in an albergue in 2019, so we know that town well!
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  • A rainy day

    6 mars, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    We stayed last night in the home of a man who loves the Camino. However, he apparently does not love heating. It was the first night we were totally without heat, so we bundled up in our wool tights, socks, and shirts, crawled into our down sleeping bags and covered that up with a blanket our host provided. Once we were warmed up, we both slept pretty well. The water was also only warm, so I took a quick shower, and Phil skipped it altogether.

    This morning it was raining and cold. We found 2 coffee machines along the walk and finally around noon found an open bar for snacks and real coffee.

    We are staying tonight in an old mill that has been turned into an upscale albergue. Phil and I are sharing a room with a Spanish man and a younger Korean guy. There are several Australians here and others from Mexico, etc.

    We served in this town in 2019, so we knew where the stores were located. We bought a few groceries, and I made lemon chicken with some noodles. After breakfast tomorrow, we'll take a but to the next big town. It is supposed to rain the next 3 days and we have plenty of time to get to the albergue. No since being miserable when we can stay warm and dry.
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  • Travel day to Logroño

    7 mars, Spanien ⋅ 🌬 54 °F

    We had a good evening at our albergue. There was a snorer in the bunk above me, but I had earplugs and my buff on my eyes to keep the automatic bathroom light from bothering me.

    After breakfast, we walked to the bus station and took the bus to Logroño. There were a few other pilgrims we recognized. The weather is cold and windy and there was some rain today so people are coming into Logroño which is a big town where they can hunker down, do laundry, and be a bit more comfortable until the weather improves.

    We stopped to visit the volunteer office for our organization today on the way to the hotel. It was good to meet Mayte and Marta in person.

    After we checked into the hotel, we went and had the big midday lunch again. I ordered what I thought was going to be bean soup, but it turned out to be tripe soup. It was good, but not something I would order again. Phil had ham and potatoes with fried eggs.

    After lunch, we took a short nap and then rode the city bus to the Decathlon Store, which is kind of like a European REI store. He has been having trouble with his backpack, so we bought one to load and try. If he doesn't like it, we can return it tomorrow.

    We'll try to do a tapas crawl tomorrow. Logroño has a famous tapas street where you order little plates and then move on to the next place. Not many photos today due to weather and travel.
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