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Trip to Italy and Spain
  • PW and JKW's trips
  • Phil Woodford

Trip to Italy and Spain

Combined sightseeing, pilgrimage, and volunteer trip Read more
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  • Trip start
    February 2, 2025
    Trip to Italy and Spain
    Waiting at the station.
    1The old wooden benches.Photo of a photo of the old station layout.1We are finally on our way on the train.Chicago Union Station

    Planes, trains, and automobiles

    February 1 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 32 °F

    We made it to Chicago! We left Gainesville, MO, on Friday morning and drove to Kansas City. After a visit with my parents and a haircut, we drove to my brother's house to spend the night.

    Early Saturday, we caught the Southwest Chief train to Chicago. Phil's father used to work for Santa Fe Railroad before the initiation of Amtrak, so Phil has many memories of the Kansas City Union Station when it was his father, Woody's, office and place of business. There were some neat old photos of the station in it's strictly railroad days. We waited in the room for our train with the same wooden benches that were there in the glory days.

    The train trip was long but smooth. We were not crowded, and the price was right at $180 for the two of us.

    We're staying at a Marriott property tonight, and we'll use the shuttle to the airport tomorrow. I probably won't post again until we get to Rome on Monday so stay tuned.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    The view of the sea from our kitchen windows. We also have a terrace.
    View of the village of Manarola from the kitchen. Dreary today.Back to yesterday. Waiting for trains.People immediately start to speak English to us. Can't understand why they know we are not Italian!

    Arrived at Cinque Terre

    February 8 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 45 °F

    Yesterday was a long travel day. We left Pompeii by train, and it took 4 train segments to get up north here to our new spot at Cinque Terre.

    No travel troubles this time, but our packs were extra heavy because the landlord in Cinque Terre had warned us all the shops would be closed when we arrived. We were carrying not only our lunch but also our supper!

    It was quite dark when we arrived so we could not see much. I was here twice in 2002, but Phil has not been here. We are in the village of Manarola perched on a cliff on the Ligurian coast in Italy. Magical!

    Our host is an eclectic young man who grew up here but has apparently traveled. He owns his family home and two other apartments. We are staying in the Open Heart AIRBNB. Jvan, our host, met us at the train station. He wears clothing similar to a Tibetan monk. He led us through a maze of narrow pathways up the steep village.

    The apartment is decorated with sea murals, and while not the most contemporary, it has a charm about it. The best part is the view we woke up to this morning.

    We had some planned some hiking, but it is chilly and a little rainy. The path is pretty slick, so instead, we'll catch the train to see the other four villages today and maybe eat a lunch out. We've been eating in to save money and keep us from eating too many calories, but we deserve a meal out on the coast. The big meal here is served between 1 pm and 2 pm.

    More tomorrow or tonight!    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    Is our apartment this way?
    Or is it this way?Views good even from the train stationOur anchovies dish. 3 ways, marinated, fried and with pine nuts. All good!Phil's sea bass with potatoes, olives, tomatoesMy pasta with several types of seafood mixed in.Tiramisu: whipped cream with cookies, topped with coffee and cocoa powder!Sea cavesThis is the yacht club at MonterrosoChurch MonterrosoIn the rain with Monterroso in the background

    Cinque Terre in the rain Day 1

    February 8 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 46 °F

    It was a rainy day, but we did not let that stop us from getting out. We got lost first thing this morning walking back from the grocery store. We arrived in the dark last night, and the streets are like a maze with no rhyme nor reason to the numbering system. Google Maps is no help whatsoever. We wandered all around in the rain, going up and down the steep hillside streets with our groceries. We finally found pur place again.

    After breakfast, I washed out some socks and underwear by hand. When you only have three pairs of undies, you must wash at least every two days!

    We bought two Cinque Terre cards which entitiled us to two all day tickets (for 2 full days) on the train and use of the clean train station bathrooms (normally 1.50 each use) and wifi, bus tickets, hiking trails and more! We only used the train and bathrooms today.

     We decided today would be our splurge meal day. The next train out of the station was to the town of Riomaggiore. We selected the restaurant with the top Google rating that was off the beaten path and really went for it! We shared an appetizer of anchovies prepared three ways. Phil then had a main dish of Sea Bass with potatoes, tomatoes, olives, and a bright little salad. I had the pasta of the region with the seafood of the region. We shared a tiramisu for dessert. Let me say we have never had anything like these dishes, and they were all delicious!

    After lunch, we hopped back on the train and went to another small village. We walked around and found a tourist shop that sold little cheese graters that I could use to zest my lemons as well as grate cheese. After a late afternoon cappuccino, we are back in our apartment and will have a light supper.

    It rained lightly all day, but it did not dampen our spirit of adventure or our enthusiasm. Tomorrow we will visit the other two small towns. I think it will rain again, but we are really thankful for the lack of tourist crowds. It is still beautiful even in the rain.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    We attended church here today.
    Interior of the church before Mass.Here we are at Vernazza close to where Mom and Mike had a photo taken 23 years ago.View of the castle.If your ball goes over the edge at Corniglia it is out of bounds and a very long way down to get it.Another tiny mountain town even higher!Tiramisu and "Black" chocolate gelatoFinally not raining and able to go out on our patio!

    Cinque Terre day 2

    February 9 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    This morning, we got up and walked in the rain up the street of Manarola (our village) and found the church. Mass was just starting, so we attended. It was a small crowd, but lively. The music was a man playing the guitar and leading the singing. There were also two altar boys (possibly twins and for certain brothers). They looked to be in grade school. A grandmother-looking woman was coaching them with hand signals from the congregation.

    In the end as they processed out, one boy dropped the communion cloth from the chalis as he was carrying it out and the other narrowly avoided dropping the glass vials of holy water as the priest reached in for the save. Phil commented that they must still be in training or were perhaps the only young boys in the tiny community. The priest was unflappable and took it all in stride.

    We stopped for a few groceries and then had lunch back at the apartment before heading out to the towns of Vernazza and Corniglia. We took a photo down by the harbor in Vernazza near the spot that Mom and Mike took one 23 years ago!

    At Corniglia, we were glad to have our two day passes, which allowed us to ride the bus up and down instead of hiking up the 355 steps in the rain.

    Finally, back at Manarola, we had our first Italian gelato. I don't usually eat sweets, so Phil finished half of mine.

    Tomorrow, we are back on the train heading for two nights in Florence. We are excited that we'll have an actual washing machine since we have several days of wear on our current clothes.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    Orchid blooming outside in the mild coastal climate of Cinque Terre
    Lemon and mandarin orange trees growing on almost every terrace where there are no grapes!Regional train to FlorenceMarble and stone processing yardsCarrera marble is quarried hereMore stone works

    On our way to Florence

    February 10 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    The sun peeked out a bit today before we left Cinque Terre. Phil and I checked out at 10 a.m., and our host kept our bags while we went for a coffee and roll.

    It was a long train ride. Phil likened it to the old Grand Canyon Express, which he remembered, stopped at every station between Kansas City and where his uncle lived in California. He remembered it took 2 days in hard wooden benches. His mother packed a hamper of food and picked out seats that faced each other so he and his 2 bothers could not escape her watchful eye.

    Anyway, it didn't take 2 days to get to Florence, only about 4 hours, but we did stop at every little town. One was Carrara, where Italian Carrera marble counter tops come from. We passed the quarries and some processing plants on the trip.

    We met 3 women from England out on a 4-day getaway. They each had suitcases that could have held both our backpacks plus two more! Nice ladies, though.

    In Florence, we had to walk in a light rain to find our apartment. It was about 5 pm when we arrived. We are on the 4th floor. Phil counted 74 steps. Tomorrow , we have tickets to see the Michelangelo statue of David at 10 am. We will see what comes next.
    We are only here 2 nights, so we will make the most of tomorrow.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    Church San Croce outside our door
    Statue of DavidA drawing of a woman's hospital from the middle agesPainting of the Pentecost from the 1300'sThis is the Duomo, a huge and beautiful cathedralLeather stalls outside the market1We had coffee and cake in the marketStalls of all kinds of thingsNo cow heads today, but here are some cow feet for saleAll types of fishChickens with the heads still attachedWe think this is PoseidenA carousel selfie after a long day of sightseeing

    A whirlwind day in Florence

    Feb 11–12 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    After we arrived yesterday, Phil and I went to the grocery store at the worst possible time! The stores in the city are small and crowded, but I was able to find provisions and prepare a decent supper of pasta with pesto and lemon chicken breast.

    Today, we went first to a print shop to print out tickets for the Galleria della' Academia. I had purchased a timed entry to see the Michelangelo statue of David. The place was mobbed, and people who did not have a timed entry were waiting outside for there to be room inside. It was a really cool art museum. There were paintings from the 13th century as well as sculptures from the Renaissance.

    We used the free bathrooms before we left and then walked all around Florence. We went to one of the big markets at San Lorenzo. There were leather vendors outside and inside all kinds of food stalls. As a child, I have a memory of my father and I following a man with a cow's head on his shoulder into the market. I recall all manner of animals and fowl hanging up for sale. This market had lots of stuff, but was more touristy. The top floor was places to eat. Tomorrow, we'll visit another market that our host says is more authentic.

    We walked until about 1 pm and then came back for lunch and a rest. Our hostess came by with some new silverware. In the later afternoon, Phil and I went on a treasure hunt of sorts. Our tiny fold up backpack finally gave out after 8 years. We sourced a replacement. We also found Phil a new plastic cup to replace the one that was crushed when we flew over. We also found my instant coffee con leche packets for when we start walking our pilgrimage in 2 days.

    Now we're back at the apartment. Tomorrow we take the train to Lucca.

    There are so many tourists here, and it is only February! Lots of American University students in every store!    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    This is the other market we checked out today. Still no cow heads...
    My cappuccinoOfficially pilgrims at the Lucca cathedral in the rain!Lucca streets with cool architecture.The Elisa Gate to the Lucca city walls.The wall runs around the old part of the city.We are on the "Via Romana" on our way towards Rome.Here's my pilgrim credential with the first stamp.

    In Lucca and officially pilgrims

    February 12 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    We spent the morning in Florence. We went to another marketplace looking for the cow's head butcher counter, but apparently, that is no longer a thing.

    We walked to the train station in the rain with our pilgrimage rain ponchos and rode 90 minutes to Lucca. Again, it was raining, so we crossed the city wall and walked to the cathedral to get our credential or official pilgrim passport for the next 9 days' journey. We are officially pilgrims on the Via Francigena. Then we walked another mile or two to our room for the night.

    We'll step across the road to the grocery store and get some supper as well as supplies for breakfast and lunch. It is supposed to rain again tomorrow.

    Our destination tomorrow is Altopascio. We have been told the walk is not that beautiful through high traffic and urban areas. We will see. It is about 10 miles, and we need to check in between 3 and 4 pm. Tomorrow, we are at a typical pilgrim establishment (bunk beds and shared bathrooms). It is donation based.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    We walked by this church early.
    A blooming rosemary bushSecond breakfastThe only "natural" part of today's walk not on pavement.Our ostelloBy the city gateAnother gateChurch tower

    Lucca to Altopascio

    February 13 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    The weather was perfect for walking today. There was no rain, and although it started chilly, the sun came out. We were able to shed our coats. Today's route was through mostly urban and industrial areas.

    The low point of the day was when we came to a roadwork closure with no sure-fire way around except to walk a couple of extra miles. On a chance, we walked down a farm lane and took a kids' muddy bike track over an earthen dyke. Amazingly, there was a driveway with a bridge over the stream, and we saved ourselves several miles backtracking.

    We stopped for coffee twice. We also stopped for a stamp at a museum, and the person who "logged" us in let us use the bathroom, too. We were the first pilgrims since Feb 6.

    About 4 miles from the end, it appeared we would not make it for checkin. Phil just could not walk faster, so I went on ahead and checked us in. He came about an hour after I did.

    This "ostello" is donation based. We left 50 euros for a bed, a place to shower, and there is a microwave and fridge so we can have breakfast in the morning. A volunteer came and checked us in. There are only 3 beds and only the two of us tonight.

    There is a laundromat next door and a restaurant on the corner. Tomorrow's walk is only 14.5 km or 9 miles. We don't have to be there at 3 pm, so that will make for a quieter day.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    Prosciutto with bread, water, wine
    Pasta pirataTuscan ragu pastaSome kind of yummy dessert

    Rain, cold. Took a bus part way!

    February 14 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    Last night, we did our laundry and then went out for supper. There was a place called the B&B Spaghetti House right across the courtyard. In Italy, as in Spain, restaurants don't serve supper until 8 pm. We went in and were told it was too early for supper.

    We decided to order a glass of wine, and the server asked us if we'd like some prosciutto ham, too. It was served with warm bread. The server sliced the ham for us, and it was good and salty. The chef arrived and asked where we were from. We introduced ourselves, and he commented it was early in the season for pilgrims.

    After talking to the server, he came over and said it would be OK to eat early ( I guess we looked really hungry). Phil ordered the fresh pasta with Tuscan ragu (a meat sauce with tomato), and I ordered the pirata, which is pasta with a sauce made of oil, olives, red pepper, and tomatoes. Both were delicious, and we were very hungry. Then Phil ordered some kind of dessert with chocolate sauce. Again, it's very tasty!

    It rained all night and was still raining when we left. It rained and even hailed on us little. We were walking through a park-like area and came upon some fallen trees and a stream that was flooding. My guess is that normally, you can just step across, but this was too wide, swift, and deep for that now.

    We had to bushwack across a field and wade through more water. I detoured to what looked like a farm road, and soon we were wading uphill through the running water.

    We finally reached a town and were sad to see with all the detours and flooding, we'd walked only 2 miles in 2 hours. We went into a bar and ordered coffee and pastries. A nice lady who was glad to see American Pilgrims paid our tab.

    Then back out in the rain with ponchos on. I was able to route us to a quieter side road, but there was no shoulder to walk on, so it was dangerous even with the rural traffic.

    We stopped in the next town for coffee again with 4 miles to go. It was either walk through natural areas that were flooded or walk on the busy main highway. Of course, it was still pouring down rain...

    I checked online, and there was supposed to be a bus at 2:18 pm to the town we needed. We waited, and as we were leaving, the bar maid told us to come back if the bus didn't work out, and she would help us find a ride. In the afternoon the bar was filled with older men playing cards. One walked out with us, and I think it was telling us it was too dangerous to walk on the road.

    We waited patiently in a downpour. It was getting colder, and when the bus arrived, I could not figure out how to pay at the side door. The bus lunched forward anyway, and I walked to the front seat. I tried to tell the driver where we needed to go, and since we were the only people on the bus, he dropped us as close as he could and reassured me that it was a small town. I tried to pay our fare, but he just waved me off and said good luck.

    We are now thawing and drying out in our little room for the night. We have a heater and even a heated towel rack in the bathroom. It is supposed to stop raining and be sunny tomorrow. Fingers crossed. There are no photos today except last night's dinner due to the driving rain and hail all day.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    Cold, but sunny morning. We are dressed properly!
    Another detour, but we found an elevator that worked instead.The River ArnoA beautiful villaThe elevator is down for maintenance here!View from my windows, a lemon and orange tree.View from the town overlook.Tower completed in 1200, but rebuilt after WWIIA snack in the afternoon

    Cold, windy, but sunny

    February 15 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    We had a good supper at a pizzeria near our room last night. It finally stopped raining, but it was cold.

    Our boots and clothes dried out by morning, thanks to a towel heater in our bathroom. We started walking at about 8:30 am. It was brisk at 44F, but it felt like 39F due to a chilly wind.

    After yesterday's flooding, it seemed great! We decided NOT to take the scenic area by the river anticipating mud. We walked into Fucecchio and found a popular coffee shop for our first break.

    As we walked on we did end up on a dyke next to the River Arno and then into San Miniato Basso. We had several detours due to construction again and had to backtrack, which made our route longer.

    We stopped for a sandwich around noon and felt good that our apartment was nearby (we thought.😖 we found ourselves at the foot of a steep hill. It appeared there was an elevator to take us part of the way, but that was a cruel trick. The elevator was out of order, and we had to climb a steep set of open stairs several stories high. I am afraid of heights, and that last climb was pure fear and adrenaline!

    We arrived at the top to our lovely apartment. We walked around the town, took photos, and had a snack. I will cook some supper in the apartment tonight. We were also able to wash our muddy clothes from yesterday.

    We have to carry food for tomorrow since we are not near a town in a rural country house with a hot tub tomorrow.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    Walking through olive groves!
    Random picnic rest stopFirst aid supplies.A book to leave a message to other walkers.The Paris church of Peter and apaul in Coiano.View from our villaAnd a hot tub!

    Coiano Casa Sofi

    February 16 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    I have been using a mapping app called Mapy.cz. today, that was a mistake. The app took us away from the Via Francigena route, down a steep hill, through a couple of vineyards, and then another up another steep hill and a bunch of mud. We were very far off the route, and instead of walking 7 5 mikes, my phone says I walked 12.5 miles.

    After walking 2 hours on the wrong path, we gave up on Mapy.cz, and I actually used the official Via Francigena app, which got us on the right path. I will use that from now on! I had forgotten I even had it on my phone!

    There were no towns today, just walking through Tuscan countryside. We came to the "middle" of the route in Tuscany, and there was a random picnic table, first aid box, and a book to sign.

    We met other pilgrims today. One large group and their leader said they are doing the route on weekends. They left us in the dust as we headed the wrong way early in the morning.

    Tonight, we are in a vacation cottage in Coiano. It is lovely and has a pellet stove and a hot tub. It sleeps 6 people. We may take a dip in the tub later. For now, we are just resting our feet.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    Breaking for a few apple slices and to take off our coats.
    We were way up there last night.Hiking along through the countryside.A pretty streamCheese sandwichBreaking for lunchFor my dad, a hunting stand among the vineyards and olive groves

    On to Gambassi Therme

    February 17 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Another interesting day. We slept well. Our house for last night had a pellet stove which made for a cozy evening. We didn't use the hot tub.

    I made some lemon pasta with olives and ham bits for supper. Phil was in bed by 6:30 pm!

    We set out today at 8:30 again. Our route was going to take us right through a huge muddy valley, so we purposely took a road detour. Again, today, there was nowhere to stop for coffee, but we had some snacks. We shared apple slices and had some chocolate bar and a couple of cheese sandwiches on breaks.

    The countryside is really breathtaking with in it's beauty and the steepness of the hills.

    We met two other pilgrims. One from Spain and the other from the Netherlands. They were walking in the opposite direction, but we had a nice chat.

    Gambassi Therme is on a huge hill. We went up and up and through the mud, vineyards, olive groves. We were near the top and finally back on an actual road. There was a bus stop and the bus was supposed to come in 3 minutes. I felt it was our destiny to ride the remaining 2 miles up the hill.

    This time, I managed to pay for one of us, but the machine only took one credit card per person, and Phil didn't have his card out. The driver just waived us on and shut the door. Maybe we'll get it right another day...

    Our apartment is awesome again. I am washing our muddy clothes right now, and we'll walk to the grocery store to get supper supplies when the clothes are finished.

    Tomorrow, we walk to San Gimignano, which is supposed to be a very cool town with lots of "tower" houses. People built their own equivalent of a family castle or "keep" .    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    Narrow streets as we leave town.
    Winery where we got a stampMore mudResting while Phil repacks and we shared a lunch.Very large rosemary bushes here.A pretty church, now a home.Walls of San GimignanoTower near our apartmentReward for finishing the walk

    San Gimignano

    February 18 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    It was another strenuous day of walking. I thought I might lose Phil for a little bit, but everything straightened out and we made it to our destinstion.

    Early this morning, we met 4 Italian pilgrims. They seemed very fit and quickly left us in the dust. We stopped at a winery to get a stamp and then a short while later, Phil was having trouble with his pack and walking really funny. At one point he really scared me and said he just couldn't carry his pack any further. I knew I could not carry both our loads, but after stopping for a rest, he unpacked and repacked things more evenly and seemed better.

    We hiked through mud, vineyards, and olive groves again. We met a man named Mario who owned a large tourist villa and was out walking his dog. It was good to chat with him as we walked. He told us there were deer and wild boar in the area and at least two wolves, which is quite rare in Europe. He told us how it was to the next road, etc.

    We managed to get on the road 40 minutes too late for today's bus, so we just walked the last 4 miles. Lots of very steep hills. We are pooped, but I am proud of us. We'll shower and treat ourselves to a restaurant supper tonight if we can stay awake that long.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    Leaving San Gimignano
    San Gimignano from our rear view todayA hunter heading out. I also saw a ring neck pheasant today.Crossing thr first streamWild boars tracksCrossing the second streamEtruscan tomb. Thing inside.Getting ready to cross the third streamPhil in actionRoman or Estruscan road remnantFinally the gates to our new city

    Less mud, other events

    February 19 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Today, we walked to Colle Val d'Else, which was supposed to be about 9 miles. My phone says I walked about 12 miles. I'm not sure who is right, but it seemed like a long 9 miles.

    We met another pilgrim couple. I think they were French, but they scurried off ahead of us. Today, we crossed up and down 3 large hills. It was about a mile up and then down again on each.Each very steep and a stream at the bottom of each one.

    The first two were easy to cross, but the third, we had to take off our boots and wade across in our Crocs. Very cold! There was also a cruel tease of a coffee shop about halfway, but when we arrived, it was either not open or had gone out of business. No sign of it.

    We passed by the location of an Etruscan tomb today. The Etruscans were here before the Roman's, but left very little written language. The Roman's conquered them and assimilated their technology and their people. We were on part of an old Roman/Etruscan road today.

    We finally found a coffee shop about 45 minutes before we found our apartment. We are in the old town of the city on a very steep street. This town is noted for its fine crystal.

    Tomorrow, Monteriggioni, another walled city. We are staying in a castle there.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    Two tickets to Monteriggioni. I figured it out!
    You can see the hilltop fortress above the fenceGate to our townOur showerOur bedroomIt's pretty chilly and wet today.Inside the church. Built in the 1200'sThe other gateTowers on the wall ring the city. The viewing platform was closed today.Cool door lintel.Ready to eat a big lunch!Tomato and bread soupAppetizers plateWild boars ragu with fresh tagliatelleSteakAlmond biscotti with sherry. You dip the cookie in the liquor. I didn't like it much. Too sweetView of the piazza. Our room is on the far side.

    Rest day at Monteriggioni

    February 20 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    It rained overnight and was still wet and cold this morning. As we were walking toward our destination, we came upon a taxi stand and a bus station. I asked Phil if he would like to ride to Monteriggioni instead of walking, and he said yes.

    Part of my reasoning is that the path went by the river and had several river crossings. The photos show pilgrims crossing on flat stones hanging onto cables. Not really my thing in the cold, and with rain, I knew we'd be going through lots of mud again.

    I bought 2 bus tickets to Monteriggioni, which is a tiny walled village on top of a hill. It still has towers and only 2 gates. Today it is mostly a tourist destination and in winter it is very quiet and not crowded.

    We caught the bus and walked up the hill to our apartment. It is inside the walls of the village and it is really cold with authentic stone walls. We're sitting with our jackets on directly under the heater!

    When we arrived, we walked around and then picked out a place for lunch. We had a Tuscan tasting menu with appetizers, pasta, steak, and cookies with Sherry for dessert.

    The first references to this town were in the 900s. It was a stronghold due to its towers and location. It was also an important church headquarters. It survived because in the Middle Ages, it was hit hard by the plague, and it was in an out of the way location. People kind of forgot about it until more recent times.

    Tomorrow the route is very long so I bought bus tickets to shorten the walk. We'll catch a bus about 9:30 and walk the last 5 miles or so into Siena. That will be our last pilgrim day until Spain.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    Selfie waiting for the bus
    Good coffee and apple tartsWalking view todayEven in Italy, McDonalds has a value menu!This is a 24 hour cannabis vending machine.SignGate as we walked inA church as we walked inGateCamelia gateCarbonaraMy polentaView from our windowThe DuomoInside the DuomoCampo in Siena where the horse race happens.

    Siena and end of the Via Francigena walk

    February 21 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Last night, our castle room was a major disappointment. It was really expensive and the VERY cold. We had the heat on full blast, but the room never really warmed up. We did have good warm covers, though.

    We just had snacks in our room instead of going back out last night. This morning, the coffee machine didn't work right, and it was good that I had extra instant packets with me, or I would have really been crabby!

    We caught our 9:30 bus and rode just a few miles toward Siena. Phil had read in the official VF app said that the walking path went "through the brush and down a riverbed and through a woods. The route short and easy is made hard by the total shortage of water and roadhouses." I paraphrased, but basically, it went into no man's land. The bike route was recommended by one of our other guides, so we took the bus to about 4 miles from Siena and walked through the suburbs the rest of the way.

    Fortunately, our bus stop was near a good coffee shop and pharmacy. We got a "good" coffee and had a couple of apple tarts. I went to the pharmacy to get more Tylenol.

    We walked into town and arrived before our room was ready. The hotel held our luggage while we had lunch. We went to a real trattoria where the menus were not in English. Phil had spaghetti carbonara, and I had polenta cake with meat and mushroom gravy. Very tasty!

    After we got checked in, we went to see the Duomo or cathedral. It was really fabulous and lots of artwork. Then we stopped at the Campo, where they have the annual horse race each year.

    Tomorrow is a travel day so I don't know if I will have much to write. We have 4 nights in Rome at an AirBNB.

    Our accommodation tonight is pretty simple, but it has a good price, has heat, and includes breakfast!. It is also in a good location.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    Cafe selfie this morning
    Train nice and not full.Long train dayFor Phil, too!Train track by the coast today.

    Made it to Rome

    February 22 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    We spent much of the day traveling. Met a very nice German woman on the train who was biking the Via Francigena, but also tired of the mud, so taking an alternate course.

    More tomorrow. We arrived about dark. The apartment is nice. The grocery store is not too far away.Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    Our terrace and clothes rack
    An obilisc on the Piazza de Popolo. I think the Roman's stole these from EgyptCircus Maximus where they raced chariots, like in Ben Hur.First view of the ColoseumAnother view. It held 50,000 to 80,000 peopleWe did not go around to the other side, but this shows how many stories it was.Coming up on the PantheonFront of the Pantheon with a lot of touristsStolen obiliscRandom Roman columns and built into another building at Piazza de PietraTrevi fountain and crowdsSide view of Trevi FountainColumn dedicated to Marcus Auerelius

    Walking around in Rome

    February 23 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    I can't imagine how busy it will be here in the tourist season! It is already really busy and crowded and it is only February!

    Today, we had lovely weather for walking around. We did a couple of loads of laundry early and hung everything up on the balcony. We washed everything we were not wearing. We'll wash what we are wearing now tomorrow. I want to leave here with a backpack of clean clothes since we've been on the road for more than 3 weeks now.

    After breakfast and chores, we walked down to the piazza or large plaza by our apartment. It is called
    Piazza de Popolo. We bought 72-hour passes to ride buses, subways, streetcar, etc, and then after faffing around for 30 minutes, I figured out which bus going which way would take us to the Coloseum.

    Phil managed to figure out how to validate the tickets using the machine. A short while later, we watched some other tourists who were baffled by the process.

    We got off the bus at Circus Maximus, which is the archeological chariot racing stadium. We walked over to the Coloseum and took photos, and then took a bus up to the Pantheon. There are just Roman ruins everywhere here. We did not buy tickets to go into anything today, but we enjoyed photographing things from the outside.

    On our walk back, we stopped for tonight's groceries. Tonight, we'll have chicken and salad and maybe pasta.

    I bought tickets for entry to the Vatican at 9:30 am on Tuesday. Tickets for Monday morning were already sold out. Since we have the transit pass, it will be easy to map our route there and back.

    The Pope is in the hospital, so I doubt there is any chance of seeing him this week. It is supposed to rain Monday and Tuesday. Thankfully, there are umbrellas here in the apartment for our use.

    If it is raining tomorrow we'll go to some museums. The Leonardo di Vince museum is just steps away from our apartment.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    Here is the fountain under repairs at the Spanish Steps.
    The Spanish Steps with another stolen obilisc at the top.We found a protestant church on our walk today.The Conversion of St PaulThe crucifixion of St PeterBeautiful altarA tulip tree blooming in FebruaryThe River TiberGuy rowingA heron fishingTonight's soup!Clothes drying inside by a space heater today.

    Rainy day in Rome

    February 24 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    We did another load of laundry, but this time, we had to hang it inside the apartment. It rained on and off most of the day--mostly on--so it was good to have some inside activities this afternoon.

    Before the rain, we walked out and found the Spanish Steps, which are a famous architectural feature built on the request of a French diplomat. Unfortunately, the fountain at the bottom was under updates for the Jubilee, so the view wasn't that great.

    We walked back and had a coffee on the Piazza del Popolo, and then went to see the Basilica of Maria de Popolo. The art was really fantastic and it was free to enter. It is an active church, so it is closed throughout the day for Mass.

    After we walked over to the Tiber River and found a different grocery store to pick up today's supplies. We saw people rowing on the river and also a heron fishing from a tree. On our way back, it began to rain more, so we brought our groceries back and had lunch.

    Since it was raining, we decided to go to the Leonardo di Vince museum near our house. It was not really worth the 26 euros we paid to get in. We had just watched a PBS special on Leonardo, and most of this was a repeat. Only replicas inside the museum, although everything was nicely displayed, and there were about 50 machine replicas on hand from military inventions, attempts at flight, and lots of others.

    It was really raining hard when we came out so we came home and I made Tomato, Potato, Basil Soup for supper. It's our favorite in a cold, dreary day and only takes a few ingredients.

    Tomorrow we go to the Vatican. I have tickets at 9:30 to enter. There are two buses and the Metro that will get us there near our house.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    Crush getting into the Vatican Museum
    Scripture about the boatsBoat replica from Galilee where Jesus taught and recruited the Apostles.Not that big of a boat!St Peter's from the museum patioAs an example, just one hallway in the Vatican. The art was like this everywhere!A "map room" with maps on each wall down the hallway.Map of Italy.Crowds to get into the museum. So glad we had a timed ticket!Around St PetersPanorama of St Peter's square. This obilisc is not stolen.Phil and I in front of St PetersSwiss guard there at a side entry

    Sistine Chapel and Vatican City

    February 25 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    We got up early and left the apartment by about 8:25 to catch our bus to the Vatican. I purchased a timed entry at 9:30 am. If you come here, definitely pay for the timed entry. Loads of people waiting to get in and buy tickets. The morning entries were already sold out a couple of days ago!

    We had to show our passports (it is another country) and our tickets, go through security, check our long umbrella, and show our tickets a second time to get into the museum and Sistine Chapel. The place was packed!

    We stopped and mailed a postcard to my step-mom, Chris, at the Vatican Post Office. Then I waited in a really long line for the women's restroom while Phil just zoomed right into his. Several women were firmly evicted from men's bathroom by the female attendant, which had no line. I tried to leave a tip as the sign said tips were appreciated, but the attendant declined with a thank you.

    We walked through endless hallways and rooms filled with art, sculptures, murals, etc. We went up and down stairs. Finally, we arrived at the Sistine Chapel. No photos allowed, and quiet is enforced. Honestly, it wasn't much more special than what we'd already seen! This is where the new popes are elected when it isn't filled with tourists. It was beautiful, but so was everything!

    If you aren't special, you have to walk all the way around the block to see St Peter's Basilica. I didn't realize we also needed a special entry time to see inside, and by the time I checked, it was sold out for the next 2 days. There is no charge to go in, but it does cost 5 euros to book an entry time. The lines were crazy for late February. I can't imagine what tourist season will be like!

    We came back home and had leftover warm soup for lunch. We'll organize ourselves today. We get picked up for a ride to the airport tomorrow at 8:30 am, so we will run more load of undies later today. When you only have 3 sets, you have to wash often! From here on, we'll be just washing in a sink or looking for a laundromat. I don't reserve on the Camino, and we'll be staying mostly in hostels with bunkbeds.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain

    Travel days

    February 27 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    Sorry, I did not get anything posted yesterday. We spent most of our day either going to or from airports, waiting, and flying. We made our flight from Rome to Madrid. Nothing much to report. This morning, we are eating an early breakfast and then we catch a train to Pamplona to begin our next steps as pilgrims on March 1.Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    View from the train. Plants blooming here.
    Crocus in Pamplona.Gates on the city walls.The bulls run through here!The albergue. I have a top bunk.Washers and dryers empty. People are out doing things.

    Made it to Pamplona

    February 27 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    We got up really early to eat at the breakfast buffet, then took the hotel shuttle back to the airport and then the commuter train into town.

    Our train to Pamplona was 3 plus hours, and we walked about 30 minutes to get to the albergue. This is kind of a "mega" albergue with 112 beds. They are about half full tonight. Washers are free. Dryers are 1 euro, so we are washing up our undies again before moving on tomorrow

    We'll go shopping as soon as Phil finishes his shower. Need stuff for supper, breakfast, and tomorrow's lunch. The bus tomorrow to Roncesvalles leaves at 1:30 so we have time to walk around. We've been here several times.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    We walked out on the Encierro where the bulls run in July.
    View of the Pamplona fort walls.More wallsSmall bus to RoncesvallesOur albergue tonightChurch here at the monasterySummer albergue is closed until later in MarchInside the churchMore churchMore churchRose window in the churchBus stop at RoncesvallesAlbergue from the restaurant where will eat tonight.

    Roncesvalles

    February 28 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    We had a pretty good night at the big albergue in Pamplona. It was noisy initially, but I slept a full night after that. We got up and had breakfast, and we're some of the last out at 8 am.

    We walked to a coffee shop near the bus station and we were basically waiting until our bus came at 1:30. We met a couple of other Americans also waiting for the bus. There were only 6 of us on the bus today, and we arrived early.

    The hospitalera welcomed us warmly. The dorm is in a renovated part of the winter albergue. Washers and dryers are free!

    We will go to church at 6 pm. Supper is at 7 pm. We don't have far to go tomorrow, so we might try to get Phil a haircut along the way.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    1Phil and I at the albergue in Roncesvalles.
    Beginning just at dawn with a headlamp.Phil getting a haircut from Pillar.Church in BurgetteWalked through a farm. Cow's and calves in the barn.Lots of horses in the Pyrenees with big shaggy hooves.Little stone bridges over the creeksYellow arrows painted on trees tell us where to go.Another type of Camino marker.1Flowers starting to bloom here.

    Beginning the Camino de Santiago

    March 1 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    It was a lovely evening. There were about 30 pilgrims in two dorms last night. We met lots of new people who were walking the Camino for the first time and a few that were veteran walkers.

    This albergue is staffed by volunteers from the Dutch Confraternity of St James. Their coordinator had contacted us a few weeks ago and asked to do a story for their newsletter. They have a monthly spotlight of volunteers, and Phil and I are a known entity on the volunteer front. The volunteer in duty took several photos of us. It was almost embarrassing to have so much attention. The interview will take place by phone while we are volunteering in Grañón.

    We attended Mass and helped bring pilgrims up for the special blessing at the end. The priest didn't speak English but welcomed everyone warmly. He had a beautiful, strong singing voice, and he and the few regulars sang a special song just in honor of pilgrims.

    After Mass, we went to a community supper in a local restaurant. The menu never varies, but it is always good. I had pasta, followed by chicken and potatoes. My dessert choice was cheesecake, which the others all shared since I don't eat dessert. Others had fresh vegetable soup, grilled trout, and potatoes with ice cream.

    We were tired and went straight to bed. I had a top bunk again. We were right by the bathroom door, so the automatic light kept me awake much of the night. I finally got up at 5:30. Phil got up about 6:30 and we left the albergue about 7:30 to walk to the next town for breakfast.

    We had a couple of coffees and split an omelet sandwich . We said goodbye to several of our new friends there as they were walking much further today than we were.

    We stopped at the grocery store to get supplies since our town tonight does not have a store. Then we went to a recommended hairdresser to get Phil's haircut. We were still very early for our checkin at the next town, so we stopped for another coffee to get fully caffeinated.

    We arrived at noon, and the owners let us leave our bags. We went to the local restaurant for lunch and had ham and eggs. We met another pilgrim from Belgium while there.

    After checking in at 2 p.m., we showered, washed our undies, and took a nap. We have a bedroom with twin beds and a shared bathroom. Our current housemates just arrived. They are two ladies from Holland on bikes. I think there will also be another couple before too long. It is interesting to see where everyone is from.

    Tomorrow, we walk about 15 km or just under 10 miles to our next town.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    Lightly snowing at dawn
    Our first hill of the dayThrough this little gatePilgrim footsteps in the snowSome slick spotsA herd of horsesA herd of sheepFinally a little rewardLook back from on top the steep hillVery rocky path downView from the river bridge in Zubiri

    A little snow and a steep hill

    March 2 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    We had a good night in Espinal, and when we woke up today, it was lightly snowing. We had about 9 1/2 miles to walk. We bundled up with a windbreaker under our coats and headed out. It was 31 degrees out.

    We walked through some pretty country and saw sheep, horses, and cows. We stopped for coffee and a second breakfast at about 10:30 am.

    Then the fun began. We marched up a very steep hill and then down a very steep hill that had slippery rocks for about 2 miles before we arrived at Zubiri, our final destination.

    We both have bottom bunks tonight. The steep downhill really took it out of us. We rested and will go have some supper in a bit.    Read more

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