Frankrijk
Cabrerets

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    • Dag 3

      Day 3 • Le Picarel to Cabrerets, 17 kms

      5 juli 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Thinking back on our walk today and yesterday, I realise that the majority of photos I’ve posted may give a false impression of this path. We are naturally captured by the dramatic cliffs - with their embedded fortifications and houses, some from as far back as the 11th century - and by the charming villages and chateaus nestled in the valley.

      But this is only part of the story. In between, and for much of the time, we are walking largely in bush or heavily forested areas. We could be in Bouddi National Park near our home in Pretty Beach. The wildflowers are delightful.

      What we haven’t captured with our cameras (phones) are the constant sounds of nature - insects and birds - and the delightful varieties of butterflies (papillons) that suddenly surround us - then fly away just as quickly.

      The Cele Valley Chemin is very much a walk in nature.
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    • Dag 3

      Day 3 • un peu plus #1

      5 juli 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      After two hours on dirt tracks, with multiple climbs and descents through bush and forest - suddenly, Sauliac-sur-Cele was before us.

      According to our guidebook, some 700 people lived here in the late 19th century, but less than 100 do now. Carved in the rock face is another of the Chateaux des Anglais - we saw the first yesterday. They generally date to the 11th and 12th centuries and were used in the Hundred Years War to protect civilians from attacks along the river.

      Though we saw similar the day before, once again we are completely captured by the drama of the Cele Valley. 😎
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    • Dag 3

      Day 3 • un peu plus #2

      5 juli 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Today ended as it began, with a steep descent on a rocky path covered in loose stones. It really pays to pay attention. So far we have not ‘come a cropper’. Tonight’s stop is the village of Cabrerets, nestled in the Cele River Valley and … with dramatic cliffs on either side. After some hours ‘in the bush’ the approach to Cabrerets is breathtaking with the now familiar site of houses literally carved into the cliff face.

      It’s the busiest village we have seen since our walk began. Many people - on foot, by bicycle or by car - stay in Cabrerets as a base to visit the famous Grotte du Pech-Merle. It’s ‘sur le chemin’ - on thé Camino - just over kilomètre from the village. We are looking forward to visiting thé Grotte in the morning before walking on to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie. ❤️

      Postscript: While we are once again charmed - a commentary in our guidebook reminds us that people living, trying to survive, in these small villages centuries ago (and perhaps more recently) had a very different perspective. This from a list of grievances submitted by the residents of Cabrerets to the local government prior to the French Revolution:

      ‘This community is situated in the most abominable corner of the world. Its only possessions - if they can be called that - are rugged rocks and mountains that are almost inaccessible.’ 🙏
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    • Dag 4

      Day 4 • La Grotte du Pech Merle

      6 juli 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      Today's stage was an unusual one - a late start, a short distance, but filled with highlights.

      The first highlight was our visit to La Grotte du Pech Merle - the cave of Pech Merle - a short 1 km climb from Cabrerets centre ville. We had reserved tickets for the first tour of the day, at 9.45. You can only visit the cave on a guided tour and bookings are recommended - particularly in summer months, as it is here now.

      Last year was the 100 year anniversary of the discovery of the cave art in 1922 by three teenagers from Cabrerets who were caving in the area. Visitor groups are limited to 25 and the tour starts with a 15 minute introduction and explanation. Then it's time to 'go down' into the cave - for a 45 minute tour exploring the vast network of tunnels and extraordinary findings. The tour was excellent - and, although there was much to see and learn in addition to the cave art, we didn't feel at all rushed.

      Our tour was in French but there was an English language brochure which was very helpful for me. There are a few English language tours but the first of these was too late for us. Although we hadn't far to walk today, the forecast was for a high of around 30 degrees, so we were keen to arrive in Saint-Cirq-Lapopie sooner rather than later. The cave is 'sur le chemin' - on the way. We were able to leave our backpacks and poles in the reception centre during our visit. Afterwards we had a coffee and a snack - and by 11.30 we were on our way.

      The French and I loved this place. Highly recommended.

      https://en.pechmerle.com/

      PS. Photos not allowed inside - so I've included some from the world-wide-webamajig!
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    • Dag 4

      Day 4 • Cabrerets to Saint-Cirq 10.5 km

      6 juli 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

      After our visit to La Grotte du Peche Merle, it was time to continue on our way. It was 11.30 and already quite hot. We were happy that we didn't have far to walk. The first hour was a peaceful but uneventful walk through 'the bush', mostly on rocky dirt paths - with a bit of up and down. We were grateful for any shade.

      After about 5 kms we emerged to open air and fields, not far from the small town of Bouzies. But we didn't head there. Our destination for today was the hilltop village of Saint-Cirq-Lapopie. While not on the Camino. this 'impossibly beautiful' village is such a treat that most walkers will take this diversion, if they have not visited before or even if they have. We were not going to miss it.

      As if Saint-Cirq-Lapopie was not highlight enough, walkers get to enjoy the fabulous 'chemin de halage', walking along an old towpath beside the river, under overhanging rock that creates a low ceiling. That's not a good description by me. The photos and video below will hopefully give a better idea. But I found this on the origins of the towpath:

      'Located in the Lot Valley, the towpath was carved between 1843 and 1847. For 30 years, horses and humans used the path to pull flat-bottomed commercial barges, called gabarres, up the river toward Bordeaux, at least until the railroad came to town and commercial shipping on the river was halted.'

      But there was yet another highlight - before the chemin de halage. Our guidebook told us that, if we were up for a bit of adventure, we could veer off the usual path, and scramble up to the old railway bridge - and cross the Lot River that way. There was no question - yes we were up for that. It was an interlude of only a few minutes in our day, but we thoroughly enjoyed it, and the views - and reflections - from the bridge were fabulous.

      The scramble up down was short but steep. I needed a hand from The French towards the top. And again on the way down the other side, which was more difficult - but, thankfully, short-lived. After surviving the scramble down, we were once again on the path and coming up to the chemin de halage. More to come. ❤️
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    U kunt deze plaats misschien wel onder de volgende namen::

    Cabrerets, Crabairet, Кабрере, Кабреретс, 卡布勒勒特

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