• From Dust We Ride
  • From Dust We Ride

Down from the mountains

Starting from Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan... Read more
  • Medina

    July 14 in Saudi Arabia ⋅ ☀️ 45 °C

    Next morning we woke up by herd of very hungry camels descended from the dune and into the oasis just stopping short of our tent. They looked at us skeptically, we were invaders after all. Then they grazed around us, careful not to get too close.

    Not wanting to lose the morning breeze, we pulled ourselves away from the camels and hit the road. Direction Medina, 550 km and 46 °C. It might also have been a bit more if you count the hot engine air frying our legs...
    We pulled into Medina after dark where we cooled down our brains for a bit.

    Next morning we went to the workers restaurant next door (typical) where all they had was tins of tuna and beans for the fuul, our standard order with a side of Karak tea. Easy peasy, cheap and cheery, what more could we ask for?

    We left the helmets behind and set off on foot. From the Quba Mosque, standing where the first mosque ever was built, we slowly walked towards Al-Masjid An-Nabawi, the Prophet's Mosque. A few kilometres along palm trees and the tranquility of a pilgrimage town, people watching, having a chai or a kebab here and there - just being a bit slow for once and watching life happen. Medina seemed a lot more relaxed than hectic Makkah. Known for its plentiful date gardens, the green invited a lot of breeze and there were many foot paths to quietly stroll. And that's how we spent our evening, calmly weaving through the stalls and between the silent moving crowd.

    Tomorrow we'd throw the helmets back on - again for an incomparable furnace ride, heavenhell yeah!
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  • The Anvil of the Sun

    July 15 in Saudi Arabia ⋅ ☀️ 44 °C

    From Medina to Al Ula - crossing a furnace

    It's hot.
    You don't feel the sweat since it's so dry the moisture doesn't exist, but at the end of the day, the shirt is encrusted in white salt. Hence, we drink water (well, obviously), a dissolved mother solution of two spoons of salt, six spoons of sugar. And the water is also hot.
    You can not escape the heat, everything we touch is just hot. The eyes get red as a result of heat and dryness.
    It's a blow-dryer, and sometimes a wave of fire on the skin...

    In other words: Again, an epic day and what a pleasure to ride through this land!
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  • Al Ula

    July 16 in Saudi Arabia ⋅ ☀️ 40 °C

    The road south towards Al Ula slowly turned into another world.

    The black volcanic fields disappeared behind us, replaced by towering sandstone cliffs, narrow canyons and giant boulders balancing where gravity apparently hadn't been informed. Every now and then, a lonely camel watched us blast by as if wondering what these two crazies were doing out there in the afternoon heat.

    Eventually, we rolled into AlUla.

    Al Ula is a bit dodgy, yet the government tries to use the cultural value to turn it into one of the flagship tourism projects, and one street of the old town is indeed a bit fancy.
    For thousands of years, caravans passed through this valley carrying incense, spices and silk between southern Arabia and the Mediterranean. We jump on a bus to go sightseeing at the remainings of the ancient culture of the Nabateans. These guys, ancestors of the Arabs of South Jordan and Northern Saudi, originated from further south in Yemen, migrated north in search for fertile lands, and eventually settled here a century before Christ as the first high culture of the region. Their impressive diwaniyas, tombs and treasuries carved into the rocks remind you it's the same people who made Jordan famous for Petra.
    We ride to the elephant rock everybody is crazy about and enjoy easy Maghreb rides, exploring the valleys surrounding Hegra. Massive sandstone monoliths rise straight out of the ground, carved by wind and time into impossible shapes.
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  • Back in the Jebelya, facing Urdun

    July 19 in Saudi Arabia ⋅ 🌬 36 °C

    We then got a breakfast in a cafe hidden in the rocks surrounding Al Ula and hit the road north.
    Enjoying the mountains around Prince MBS Royal Reserve, going down to Wadi Disah... At 1600 m, 32 °C truly are refreshing, and we surf through empty single lane roads cutting rough and honest bedouin lands. Then, Kismet starts sputtering again... Come on, girl, honestly? What's the problem now? She does have compression - Is it the altitude? 1600 m should be fine.... Or is it dirt in the carbs? Please, hold on till Aqaba. In the end, our iron horses have all right to be tired. Please, just a couple more km...

    Eventually, we come down from the mountains, towards the Gulf of Aqaba, and the colour of the sky and the smell in the air changes.
    We had that vision to eat Kusheri, that traditional cheap meal consisting of chickpeas and rice, overlooking the sea to the opposite coast where our past selves look at us with a smile - but our plan is intersected: The NEOM project, this planned futuristic mega city, so far brought confusing and empty highways and abandoned towns. To make space, the Huweitat people who lived here had been kicked out - in part violently - so no restaurant could serve us Kusheri at the coast (let's see where this all is leading to).

    No Kusheri, so we left the NEOM project behind us, camped one last night in the mountains - and rolled down to Aqaba in the morning...
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