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An Afternoon Stroll
  • JJ Weeks
juin – sept. 2023

An Afternoon Stroll

A walk. En savoir plus
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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur

    Seess

    6 juillet 2023, Luxembourg ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Day 27:
    Distance: 35.07 km (903.47 km)
    Steps: 49,858 (1,292,221)
    Move time: 7h54 (205h48)
    Spend: £12.39 (£384.51)

    Gives to Seess.

    Well, what another day, huh? This might be a long one, and well, I wouldn't usually tell the world about this, but since it won't be read by all that many people, I finally got my university results today. And of course, how else than while compulsively refreshing my emails, pacing on some Belgian country road. I just wanted closure with it, really, to know that it was finally over. But when I opened them, I got results that I really ought to have been pleased with. And yet, for some reason, I just wasn't. I honestly just felt numb. It's kind of sad, really; four years of a life dedicated to something without even an inkling of satisfaction. It's something I actually really struggled with at university; the complete lack of payoff, the complete lack of recognition for your efforts, no matter how hard you try. Just some meaningless number at the end of it all. Hiking, on the other hand, and even this adventure (you knew it was coming, didn't you) have already given me some of the most fulfilling moments of my life. And you know I mean it when I say that, because I'm currently at the new lows of writing this from a bench at 3am after choosing to move from my camp spot for fear of the squabbling wild boar. No, I am already so grateful just to have had the opportunity to have given this a shot. And even to write about this and have the occasional person listen. I think that, in a world where social media continues to push us into vanities and to fit into the strange mess that is modern life, you should celebrate your differences. Live your passions, share them, and don't give a fuck what anyone thinks about you for it. The uncoolest people are some of the coolest people I know.

    Oh, and yeah, I probably should also say: Luxembourg! Country number 4 already; it's going so fast, I can't believe it. I also visited the Bastogne war museum today, some incredible history in these parts.    En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    Towering
    Satisfying shadow meets the cropsHow most of Luxembourg looksPath sampleProminent chateau looks over the valleyStream comes to the rescueThe spittle Luxembourg streetsWish i was wind powered tooAt camping Ettelbruck1Sweet Hawaii

    Ettelbruck

    7 juillet 2023, Luxembourg ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Day 28:
    Distance: 34.03 km (937.50 km)
    Steps: 49,050 (1,341,261)
    Move time: 8h18 (214h06)
    Spend: £23.24 (£407.75)

    Seess to Ettelbruck.

    Short on food, shorter on water, shorter still on sleep. Luxembourg is a very fascinating landscape; if I had to use a single word to describe the Grand-Duchy I'd say 'polished.' The nature feels almost untouched; pristine pines forest the rolling, deep valleys occupied by shallow, gentle streams. Even the settlements, submerged in green and dispersed in space. Luxembourg, in spite of its ease in the eye, though, wasn't particularly aiding my situation, bringing me steep ascents and unrelenting heat, which brought my pace almost to a standstill. I dug deep though, and frankly, I'm absolutely exhausted. I can feel myself falling asleep even as I write this! But to fill you in, I was very keen to reach the Mullerthal area while in little Lux (a well known tourist region for its canyons and intrigue), but with how I've arranged ahead, I realised it just isn't possible to make it there, not in the condition I was in, nor the time conditions I am under. Instead, I've pivoted my trajectory towards Luxembourg City, and have chosen to stay in a campsite for two nights to allow me to shoot my way to the capital without hauling the huge pack tomorrow. Who knows, maybe I'll find some time to get my Mullerthal Miller time via a bus after all if I make good pace. But then again, maybe not. The only thing for definite right now is... sleep.En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    Pont d'Adolphe
    Path typical of the dayFelt cute, might start war with the French x3What a bit of greeneryLunch time for the cows (not me sadly)The bridge in MerschChunguswungusDuchess Bridge or somethingThe golden statue that sits above the war memorial35

    Luxembourg City

    8 juillet 2023, Luxembourg ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Day 29:
    Distance: 37.73 km (975.23 km)
    Steps: 53,264 (1,394,525)
    Move time: 8h27 (222h33)
    Spend: £30.29 (£438.04)

    🇱🇺 Ettelbruck to Luxembourg City. 🇱🇺

    I'm staring at the Luxembourg flag right now and it honestly just looks like toothpaste. Anyway, christ today was hot, peaking at 35°C! And that's pretty much thought of the day. My brain ceases to recall a single thing else, other than that bit where I went all day staring at train tracks (that don't look like toothpaste) and that other bit where I stopped at Lidl to gorge on frozen treats (some of which kinda looked like toothpaste.)

    ... yeahh I did just brush my teeth.    En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    The one megametre club
    During the day, the flag of every EU nation flies in this squareCrossing the Mosel riverDescending on RemerschenSneaking up on the tripointStorm's brewingLeaving Luxembourg city via pretty parksMore cropsCountry number 5!

    Schengen

    9 juillet 2023, Luxembourg ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Day 30:
    Distance: 30.20 km (1,005.43 km)
    Steps: 42,853 (1,437,378)
    Move time: 6h53 (229h26)
    Spend: £28.70 (£466.74)

    🇱🇺 Luxembourg City of Schengen. 🇱🇺🇪🇺

    After waking up to find my power bank had been stolen, I started the day yesterday feeling a bit defeated. In fact, I even considered stealing someone else's power bank on charge near where mine was so innocently sat! After all, surely there's no way they could need it more than I did? But no, I couldn't do it. Instead, I made the sticky 32°C (despite it being overcast) trudge south-eastwards. And if that wasn't enough, a storm then ominously rolled in behind me, hurling winds with such ferocity that the droplets of rain stabbed like piercing needles into the back of my legs. I needed some time to collect my thoughts. So I found a cosy bus stop to shelter amid the frenzy of the elements, and I started to plan. I find that planning my journey ahead can really help my morale; to think of all the places I can choose to see always renews my excitement. It was probably that which saw me regain the will to get to the end of the day and my night in a hostel at Schengen, a village at the Luxembourg/Germany/France tripoint, and which is steeped in symbolism for what its name means for travel within the European Union.En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    Seeya Luxembourg
    Bailing to GermanyLongest ever hikeReally enjoy just finding some cool quotes around meI got to stay for free at this campsite!4Along the Saar1Gentle roll of the borderAbout 20 German firefighters inexplicably shooting thousands of gallons of water at a single tree

    Saarlouis

    10 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Day 31:
    Distance: 41.48 km (1,046.91 km)
    Steps: 57,868 (1,495,246)
    Move time: 8h43 (238h09)
    Spend: £0.00 (£466.74)

    🇱🇺🇪🇺 Schengen to Saarlouis. 🇩🇪

    It was business as usual today as I found my zen while slapping my Merrell soles against the mostly smooth German tarmac, all the way to Saarlouis. It was also my first day fully immersed in the joys of the German language too; an early thought being that the very word 'Polizei' strikes fear into my heart like no other (hopefully just a side effect of watching Jason Bourne, and not a sign of things to come.) Anyhow, some might maintain that this trek is still tame; low-level and amongst civilisation. But to them, I'd say that those challenges aren't necessarily greater; they are simply different. Whilst I'm really looking forward to reaching the mountains, I can only hike what's in front of me, and the integrity of this trip is paramount to me. If I failed to place a single step between Bath and Istanbul (or wherever I may end up) with my own two feet, then personally I'd consider this adventure tainted, and well, a failure. Anyway, that was basically an array of random thoughts, but long story short: I'm still loving it! The difficulties in a day make for interesting moments to record and hopefully to read about, but ultimately, every day has its rewards, and to live simply is to live, well, happily:))En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    Nightmares
    Saar strollsPrinz Harry always getting into that Trennungsdrama🙄SaarlouisTobias

    Saarbrücken

    11 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Day 32:
    Distance: 25.80 km (1,072.71 km)
    Steps: 36,429 (1,531,675)
    Move time: 5h53 (244h02)
    Spend: £6.71 (£473.45)

    🇩🇪 Saarlouis to Saarbrücken. 🇩🇪

    Jesus christ, do you see the size of that thing?! I thought this was urban Germany, not the Seren-fucking-geti. Eine lange schlange indeed. At 34°C though, the worst trouble of the day came again in the form of the heat. And you know what they say, if you can't handle the heat then get out the kitchen. So I did. Except in my case, the kitchen is, well... the direct sunlight? I mean, look at me, I'm a pasty white ginger boy, I practically burn from turning on the oven. So yes, the distance today might be a little disappointing, but frankly, who cares when you have the pleasure of being hosted by Tobias to look forward, my first host from couchsurfing: a man with real style and chharm, having lived madnesses such as solo kayaking the Yukon and owning an entire library's worth of vinyl records. Kindnesses don't come much greater as I've even been served dinner, and allowed the pleasure of cracking open a cold one with him. And just as well btw, as a hailstone spewing storm has come menacing over. Big thanks to the Begemann family!En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    1Pastel palette sky
    RimlinA stop at this lookoutRimling to Bettwiller

    Bettviller

    12 juillet 2023, France ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Day 33:
    Distance: 33.29 km (1,106.00 km)
    Steps: 47,975 (1,579,650)
    Move time: 7h48 (251h50)
    Spend: £12.29 (£485.74)

    🇩🇪 Saarbrücken to Bettviller. 🇫🇷

    Honestly been finding it difficult the past couple of days. Sometimes really difficult. Not even physically, I think it's just mental fatigue starting to creep in. It takes a lot of strength to hit 30-35 km in day without knowing where you're next going to stay, or when you're next going to eat, only to then get up the following day and do it all over again. And then there's the next day, and the one after even that. So yeah, I think a rest day could soon be on the cards, as it's somehow been 2 weeks and 500 km since my last. What's more, recent encounters with wild boar and, not one but three snakes, have left me increasingly reluctant to wildcamp too, but in the words of one hard geezer I know (and some say he's the hardest), the game is the game. Gotta keep planting those 1's and 2's.En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    The morning sun burns off the lake haze
    France plus sunrise seems to be a good comboBitche in the ditchDon't enter or you'll be turned into mincemeatDefences remain of the Maginot LineA fun but eerie woods to exploreYeah BitcheThe morning weariness of Bettviller

    Dambach

    13 juillet 2023, France ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Day 34:
    Distance: 34.52 km (1,140.52 km)
    Steps: 49,165 (1,628,815)
    Move time: 7h48 (259h38)
    Spend: £7.79 (£493.53)

    🇫🇷 Bettviller to Dambach. 🇫🇷

    After the glories of having to sleep on another bench, this time in the lit square of Bettviller, I got my stiff limbs moving again for the day as soon as possible, with just a hint of dawn on the horizon. An early morning shuffle through the hills of the Regional Nature Park of the North Vosges then brought me to Bitche, home to an impressive 13th century citadel and, more importantly, a 21st century McDonalds. After extensive unwinds at both, I eventually said goodbye to the bitches, and made a nerve-wracking straddle through the nearby French military encampment. The woods which followed were eerily still, almost unsettlingly so, with the only noise being the occasional crescendo of machine gun fire echoing between the trees. It made it easy to imagine the scenes that might've unfolded here should Germany have ever invaded the French Maginot line, for which there are literally hundreds of abandoned bunkers littering the region.En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    Pool party
    1The Al-sauce of AlsaceLeaving behind the forested parkLucky to have found a campsite with a kettle after I ran out of gas yesterday

    Haguenau

    14 juillet 2023, France ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Day 35:
    Distance: 32.63 km (1,173.15 km)
    Steps: 45,658 (1,674,473)
    Move time: 6h56 (266h34)
    Spend: £7.74 (£501.27)

    🇫🇷 Dambach to Haguenau. 🇫🇷

    "Give every day the opportunity to become the best day of your life." That was the last thing one girl told me after rejecting me during the talking phase once. Now, that's a weird thing to start with writing about for today, but every now and again, the quote crosses my mind. Sure, maybe you're the type of person to read it and think 'what a load of shit'; but then it's easy to judge when you're a miserable person yourself. I think: that to be able to see beyond whatever hardships you may have faced, to cultivate the good in your life is surely the gift of mindset. You never need some specific weather, nor to be in some specific place; not even to be with some specific someone, to get the most out of your day, any day. One thing I've learnt is that the only true disability in life is a bad attitude; whatever limits you thought you had, whatever holds you back, there's nothing that positivity wouldn't do wonders for. Spread only positivity, and some of it might just make its way back to you. Sorry, you might be reading this expecting that I've had some great obstacle to overcome today: but no, just some thoughts. Today was actually pretty good; so I found out that it was Bastille day here; what the hell is that? Well, apparently, it's essentially the national day of France, as per the fireworks popping off around me right now. To rewind a bit, though; this morning, I saw off the final ascents of the rogue Vosges and have since toured a series of little French villages, all characterised by their pretty timbered buildings. A final forest run-in led me to this cheerful campsite, where I got to enjoy the pool! Tomorrow, I finally say goodbye to the Grand-Est, and France itself at that!En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    Balcony view of the Airbnb
    Enjoying the waters of the spaTook a big detour to cross the vast Rhine on foot rather than ferryThe viewpoint in Bad HerrenalbName's so nice you say it twiceThe black forest loomsA bed!!!!!Getting a good dinnerBorder tension? Who wants the RhinelandApocalyptic level storm. My Airbnb host came and picked me up what an angel

    Baden-Baden

    16 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Day 36 (& 37: Rest day)
    Distance: 43.40 km + 8.37 km (1,224.92 km)
    Steps: 61,038 + 12,211 (1,747,722)
    Move time: 9h17 + 2h05 (277h52)
    Spend: £42.71 + £36.15 (£580.13)

    🇫🇷 Haguenau to Baden-Baden. 🇩🇪

    Time really flies, huh. I can't believe it's been 3 days since I last wrote something. Remembering back, the road to Baden-Baden was a bit of an ordeal, 43 km in 34°C heat was not the most fun I've had in years. And they'd have you believe they're best friends these days btw, but there's there's little coincidence that there are so many military camps around the French-German border; honestly, they've got to be my least favourite thing to be anywhere near to. Anyway, following the trip's one and only crossing of the Rhine, I decided to take a rest day after reaching Baden-Baden. Why did I wait until Baden-Baden? Well, I've walked from England's most famous spa town and ended up in Germany's! 'Baden' means quite literally 'to bathe', and for that, I needed no second invitation, in spite of the town's name. So yes, on my rest day, I headed to the spa, actually in the smaller nearby (and cheaper) town of Bad Herrenalb, where I'd managed to find a place to stay. I have no idea what it was I actually ended up paying for, but after sampling the lavish saunas, steam rooms, cold pools and who knows what else, I was informed by a member of staff about the strict 'no clothes' rule. Not even swimming trunks. That's right, they literally forced me to get my elephant schnitzel out; what the hell Germany, you perverts. After not really being into that for too long, I headed to the pools and then treated myself to a restaurant dinner, where I endured another horrifyingly German experience, which basically translates to eating in the town square while a man constantly screamed over microphone and handed out sausages?! Never change, Germany. Never change.    En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    Peak
    Hell of a lot of forest to play withFinishing the day with some road walking1Big damYou get the point, lots of forest2TotalSportek2Leaving Baden-BadenI was greeted by the lovely Harold at Naturcamping Schönmünz

    Schönmünz

    17 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Day 38:
    Distance: 34.49 km (1,259.41 km)
    Steps: 48,577 (1,796,299)
    Move time: 7h38 (285h30)
    Spend: £20.23 (£600.36)

    🇩🇪 Baden-Baden to Schönmünz. 🇩🇪

    Don't get me wrong, an adventure like this can give you some unforgettable experiences, but it's very much an anti-holiday. Some of the discomforts I have put myself through already have been pretty, well... uncomfortable, to say the least. So, after taking a break from mission mode to be a normal tourist for even a day, I did find it a little difficult getting back into the headspace to make ground this morning. But it was actually a very therapeutic day of meandering the oh-so-quiet mountains of the Black Forest. And yes, you did read that right: mountains! Surely the first actually legally recognised up-and-down mountains of the trip, peaking at 991 m for one arboreal summit. Looks like the honour of the first 1000 m + elevations will have to wait until the Alps...En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    1Michael stole my sausages!
    Tranquil wood walkingHorb-ling onNature is the only reward I need

    Horb am Neckar

    18 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Day 39:
    Distance: 36.43 km (1,295.43 km)
    Steps: 51,920 (1,848,219)
    Move time: 8h09 (293h39)
    Spend: £19.26 (£619.62)

    🇩🇪 Schönmünz to Horb am Neckar. 🇩🇪

    Today would've been my graduation day. So do I regret choosing to be here, stomping the German earth over celebrating with my friends? Y'know, I think I can honestly say no. No, I don't regret it. I thought I would more than I do, but seeing the pictures of my friends at the graduation podium genuinely fills me with nothing but pride and happiness for each and every one of them. Sure, it's a shame to have missed out on some photos, but a few of the friendships I've taken from university are worth more than any photo that might've been taken on this day. One day, the moment will come for each and every one of us, and as much as I love my friends, sometimes it's worth standing alone in the name something you believe in. Thank you, University of Bath, and thank you, Natural Sciences. I wish you all nothing but the very best for the future.

    And thank you Roman, btw! What an absolute legend; mega interesting dude and I could say so much more, but it was an absolute pleasure to be able to enjoy an evening barbecuing and drinking with you. I am so grateful to be able to be hosted by people such as yourself.    En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    The picteresque town of Horb am Neckar
    Thanks Maya!Morning with RomanBad ImnauAn awful picture but the incredible Hohenzollern castle towers above the town

    Hechingen

    19 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Day 40:
    Distance: 31.32 km (1,326.75 km)
    Steps: 44,664 (1,892,883)
    Move time: 7h08 (292h38)
    Spend: £9.70 (£629.33)

    🇩🇪 Horb am Neckar to Hechingen. 🇩🇪

    'As you start to walk on the way, the way appears.'

    After a morning spent learning about the perspectives and philosophies of Roman, I took to the path with a renewed spring in my step, warmed by the kindnesses I'd been shown. In fact, the optimism lasted more or less the day through, or at least until I made my arrival in Hechingen. I'd booked to stay in a campsite here, but after arriving at 19:15 and the reception closing at 19:00, I learnt over the phone that I'd have to pay 25€ to stay here, without even access to so much as a toilet! Ridiculous! But honestly, my timing could scarcely have been better, for otherwise, I wouldn't have met Maya. Maya immediately offered to help, allowing me to stay in the awesome trailer house she and her boyfriend had built, where I'd only have to pay the campsite owner 5€. Herself, a kind and enthusiastic geology student; she shared the amazing story how she and her boyfriend had cycled 15,000 km around Europe in 8 months before they'd even started university (makes this journey look pathetic huh, and honestly they're both massive inspirations for that) and then she even proceeded to show off by reciting 100 digits of pi like it was nothing hahah (ok, nerd). For real though, I am so thankful to Maya for her help, even being so kind as to cook me dinner; and she might just have convinced me to stop being a pussy and to just embrace a wildcamp in Germany. I am ever grateful to receive kindness such as I have today.    En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    Hohenzollern Castle
    Baden-Württemburg surroundingsGauselfingen1Kneipbad GammertingenMore typical landscapes

    Gammertingen

    20 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Day 41:
    Distance: 28.70 km (1,355.45 km)
    Steps: 41,436 (1,934,316)
    Move time: 6h43 (299h21)
    Spend: £5.37 (£634.70)

    🇩🇪 Hechingen to Gammertingen. 🇩🇪

    Even when there's a bad day, or there's no place to stay, at least there's always the stars to look up and stare at. Keep smiling :)En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    Sunrise Central
    Morning shades hit the forestCrossing the DanubeDisgusting storm2Sausage man

    Riedlingen

    21 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Day 42:
    Distance: 29.06 km (1,384.51 km)
    Steps: 42,297 (1,976,613)
    Move time: 7h00 (306h21)
    Spend: £21.90 (£656.60)

    🇩🇪 Gammertingen to Riedlingen. 🇩🇪

    The challenges of each day are always ever so slightly unique. The lay of the land and how it chooses to find me means that no two days are ever the same. But today, I was running on empty in pretty much every sense; out of food, water, gas, sleep, and pretty much anything else you can think of. And so, nature decided to cheer me up and send one of the most disgusting storms I've ever encountered. It's not all bad though, as I did eventually manage to find food and a place to rest, where it's probably no surprise that I've slept for 14 hours straight🥴En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur

    Biberach an der Riß

    22 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Day 43:
    Distance: 28.95 km (1,413.46 km)
    Steps: 40,878 (2,017,491)
    Move time: 6h20 (312h41)
    Spend: £13.46 (£670.06)

    🇩🇪 Riedlingen to Biberach an der Riß. 🇩🇪

    Today, I was riding a crest. I don't know why, but after taking a slow morning, I was just really feeling it. And following some easy miles, I've stumbled upon highlight of the day; Schützenfest in Biberach. Now, I did know of this festival's existence, but after rolling into town at 19:30, I expected to have missed whatever celebrations might have been going on. But how wrong was I; I could barely believe the scale of the festivities here. There's everything you imagine when you picture a German folk festival: pretzels, rides, even the Lederhosen-wearing waitresses to carry the monster-sized beers. Most of my time has been spent enjoying the free concert; they've gone from playing Blur, to Robbie Williams to "Will Grigg's on fire, your defence is terrified" (no, really). Honestly, England must live rent-free in Germans' heads, because everyone here's been absolutely vibing to it. And as have I, tbf, there's something very amusing to me about being probably the only English person in an environment like this.En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    Final sunrise over Baden-Württemburg
    OchtenhausenAn entrance to BavariaChasing shadowsMore-mmingen1A marker for the camino de Santiago; only 1968 km awayVasile shows me around Memmingen

    Memmingen

    23 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Day 44:
    Distance: 38.07 km (1,451.53 km)
    Steps: 54,341 (2,071,832)
    Move time: 8h40 (321h21)
    Spend: £0.00 (£670.06)

    🇩🇪 Biberach an der Riß to Memmingen. 🇩🇪

    After sleeping rough following Schützenfest, I awoke to find the odd local grazing the aftermath of the celebrations. And you know what they were doing? I wondered why everyone in Germany loved recycling so much, and I think I've finally figured out why. Somehow, the promise of payment exists for recycling certain items, of which one is clearly glass bottles. And so, with the sunlight still tentative, locals came bumbling about to collect as many glass bottles as they could physically carry. The walking that followed those odd scenes was much more regular to me though, or at least up until the part where it felt like every footstep I placed was pure agony (I don't know why, and I've been toning down the distance lately, but fuck did it hurt). Anyway, I am blessed for the evening as I've had the sheer pleasure of being hosted by Vasile in the Bavarian city of Memmingen. Vasile is a Moldovan who has lived all over the continent and had a whole load of interesting perspectives to discuss, as well as just being a completely sound guy. He helped me out big time too; cooking me dinner, helping me to wash my clothes, and even giving me an extensive tour of the old town.En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    Bavarian countryside
    2Moss-FETPure art.TeufelskücheAn eye for an eye, a ball for a ballThe basilica in OttobeurenObergünzburgLove the German gothic writingWet.

    Obergünzburg

    24 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Day 45:
    Distance: 30.19 km (1,481.72 km)
    Steps: 43,013 (2,114,845)
    Move time: 6h42 (328h03)
    Spend: £0.00 (£670.06)

    🇩🇪 Memmingen to Obergünzburg. 🇩🇪

    I've been loving Bavaria so far, with its pretty pastel-coloured assortment of buildings. Even with the consistent waves of hard storms, occasionally interrupted by spells of pure sun, I made my miles to Obergünzburg with relative ease today, stopping only to cut my toenails on a bench outside the famous basilica of Ottobeuren. That's something I love about this trip; it reinforces that there are no real rules in life, only what's expected of you. Want to eat a whole tub of ice cream in public? Alright. Want to sleep in a bush? Sure. How about on a bench? Go for it, mate. Rules can be stupid, and sometimes I find it's just better to think: 'who (or what) am I really affecting negatively by doing this?', and sometimes even 'who's really going to stop me?' Happiness is freedom, and freedom is happiness. Anyway, in Obergünzburg I've been very kindly allowed a place to stay with Tjorven and Ringo, two friendly eighteen year olds. We cooked some delicious traditional German food together and then enjoyed an evening playing frankly an outrageous amount of table tennis. Thanks so much to the both of them and to Tjorven's mum Sarah, who allowed me to stay here even if she couldn't be around herself!En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    Alps await
    Coming into HattenhofenFirst sight of a mountain rangeChurch under the swirling cloudsLoomingSoggy shadowsMaking friendsHard to look away from the backdropThe view from their balcony

    Nachsee

    25 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Day 46:
    Distance: 32.52 km (1,514.24 km)
    Steps: 45,970 (2,160,815)
    Move time: 7h05 (335h08)
    Spend: £11.69 (£681.75)

    🇩🇪 Obergünzburg to Nachsee. 🇩🇪

    Another fun day. I expected my creep up on the Alps to be a gradual one, at first shielded by gentle foothills increasing in magnitude, but no. One minute I looked up, and all of a sudden there was a giant fucking mountain range staring straight back at me. It was quite a sight to behold; the menacing silhouette of jagged summits jostling on the horizon, and to be honest it was a bit of a shake-of-the-head moment, like 'oh shit, I've just hiked to Alps.' I say that, but I'll never have any amount of self-importance or undue pride over the distance I've hiked; there's always an element of luck involved and by nature of the scale of the distance, it's forever a truly humbling experience. I'll only ever be thankful for the distance I'll have made. Tonight, I'm fortunate enough to be able to stay with Lucia and Tobi; again, two very lovely and welcoming people. But I must admit, they intercepted me on the A-road run in to their house, so unfortunately, the last 3 km or so were driven, as I couldn't exactly say no to their offer of a lift at that moment. So, I'll have to make that extra distance tomorrow as a tourist on foot in Füssen instead.En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    Forggensee
    Electric blueUnder peaksCentre of FüssenMake out Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau castles aheadApproach in the Allgäu regionMamma miaGloomy start

    Füssen

    26 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Day 47:
    Distance: 19.07 km (1,533,31 km)
    Steps: 27,712 (2,188,527)
    Move time: 4h38 (339h46)
    Spend: £45.59 (£727.34)

    🇩🇪 Nachsee to Füssen. 🇩🇪

    Short day. I made the traipse into Füssen amid more heavy storms and spent the day making some final provisions before heading up into the mountains (i.e., mainly resting). Füssen is a very pretty (and very touristy) little city, and from the hostel here, I met Dina, a Ukrainian with all sorts of fun and crazy stories, and we shared some drinks together out on the balcony. This next section could be where the price goes wayy up and the progress goes wayyy down.En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    Neuschwanstein
    Just fucking cool isn't itSteady thereHohenschwangau CastleHighest point was only just below 2000m todayYou can really see out over an entire kingdomSleeping at 1608mThe overcast clears at the end of the day

    Brunnenkopfhütte

    27 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Day 48:
    Distance: 39.37 km (1,572.68 km)
    Steps: 56,682 (2,245,209)
    Move time: 9h29 (349h15)
    Spend: £7.02 (£734.36)
    (↗️ 2,677m; ↘️ 1,892m)

    🇩🇪 Füssen to Brunnenkopfhütte. 🇩🇪

    I fed the calves good and proper with over 4,500 metres of elevation change and almost 40 kilometres of pure alpine trekking today. I don’t even know what else to say, I'm just lucky to have been able to have reached here. It's so beautiful and serene. Another bonus is that after having been a member of Bath Uni Mountaineering Club, I am technically already a member of the British Mountaineering Council, which has already hugely helped in saving money when staying in this mountain hut, which in itself is actually so sick. Almost makes the having to put up with some of the stuck-up climbers worth it, ey?En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    Linderhof Palace
    Looking the other wayThe view from BrunnenkopfhütteLooking into Austria from Garmisch-PartenkirchenMore golden statues in LinderhofThe clouds disperseZugspitze loomsChris

    Garmisch-Partenkirchen

    28 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Day 49:
    Distance: 30.62 km (1,603.30 km)
    Steps: 43,598 (2,288,807)
    Move time: 6h50 (356h05)
    Spend: £14.60 (£748.96)

    🇩🇪 Brunnenkopfhütte to Garmisch-Partenkirchen. 🇩🇪

    Wow, so much to say about today. I made the steep descent from Brunnenkopfhütte straight back into Linderhof, where I decided to join the other tourists in nosying around King Ludwig's Palace, with its gold gilded rooms exuding opulence; every furnishing adorned with intricate carvings, and lush gardens framed by gentle cascades trickling down the mountainside. Maybe it was just my dismay at having to hear other native English speakers again on the tour, but I don't know how you could ever admire someone like that, someone whose image is so shallow and desires clearly so material, and almost undoubtedly at the detriment to pretty much everyone else around them too. Regardless, I got back stomping for the day, this time back to the foot of the mountains on my way into Garmisch-Partenkirchen. And turning into this valley, oh my. A vast vista unfolded before my eyes, with Zugspitze standing in silent grandeur, exposing its crisp, sheer limestone walls. The alpine backdrop only grew on my approach, too, revealing the *big* Alps of Austria, provoking as much intrigue as they do intimidation. But finally, upon my arrival, I've been fortunate enough to stay with Chris, a top top guy who's lived such an interesting life. He's lived in Germany, Burundi, Pakistan, Botswana; he once even took public transport from Munich to India, but most importantly, he's unbelievably kind and he helped me when he really didn't have to. The help I've received all throughout Germany has honestly been incredible, and I couldn't be more grateful for these experiences.En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    1000 milesWho let the dawgs out

    Klais

    29 juillet 2023, Allemagne ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Day 50:
    Distance: 25.25 km (1,628.55 km)
    Steps: 35,725 (2,324,532)
    Move time: 5h46 (361h52)
    Spend: £20.30 (£769.26)

    🇩🇪 Garmisch-Partenkirchen to Klais. 🇩🇪

    The distance won't look very impressive on the map today. But then again, success isn't always measured in miles trodden (even if I finally clocked in my first thousand). In fact, it's hard to really say what success means for a mission like this. To me, it comes back to asking myself the meaning of happiness and fulfilment; and I think part of that is overcoming the challenges that befall you any day. Sometimes, it can just be not throwing in the hat. So, while today should've been my final in Germany, I also think, hey, who cares; I'll still end up where I intend to tomorrow night. To explain more, essentially, the heavens opened with full vigour this afternoon, pelting down torrents of rain that'd leave you gasping for air. The type that, if subjected to up the wrong mountain, you'd probably be thankful to get out with your life intact. The next couple of weeks could be a real challenge on that note, with more juicy storms due in for as far as the forecast even extends. My situation is as follows: I find myself in the Alps during peak season, entering an expensive, touristy country with strict enforced anti-wild camping laws, the worst possible weather, not a single plan, and yet the only place to go is upwards, at the very least via some mountain pass. Whatever happens, it's sure to be interesting. Let's rewind a bit though. This morning was a delight to be able to eat breakfast with Chris and his family, for which it's hard to express my thanks for the authenticity and enjoyment it adds to my journey to be able to share with people as great as those which I’ve met in Germany. Leaving my rucksack behind to start the day, the photos you see are mostly from my detour to the drama of Partnachklamm, itself truly an exhibit of art in nature, spewing and spraying its carved passage through a deep ravine. My writing is dragging on a bit here, but following that, I then endeavoured on something of a wild goose chase to find some more gas for my jetboil (which has actually been without fuel for about 2 weeks straight somehow, literally I don't even know what I've been eating), and now I'm seeing out the night and the downpour hidden in a shelter in a children's playpark lol.En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    The Laliderer wall
    Crested peaks crown the valleyThe misty mountains callFalkenhütteEnd of the day ascentA look back down the valley with rain clouds approaching1Window view from the dormSplishApproaching up to Karwendelhaus

    Falkenhütte

    30 juillet 2023, Autriche ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Day 51:
    Distance: 39.01 km (1,667.56 km)
    Steps: 56,163 (2,380,695)
    Move time: 9h03 (370h55)
    Spend: £13.16 (£782.42)

    🇩🇪 Klais to Falkenhütte. 🇦🇹

    Following my night crammed into a shelter of a children's playpark, I made up the distance lost to yesterday's storms in the early stillness of the German Sunday morning. When I crossed over the border at Scharnitz, I hope for a giant 'Welcome to Austria!' sign or something, but no; for some reason, those just don't seem to exist other than for drivers on the motorway, sadly. But hey, country number 6! I had a little celebration with me, myself, and a bottle of exotic alcohol bought yesterday from some German supermarket (yes, even at 9 am!). And with the call of Austria came the call of the Via Alpina, which is a vast hiking megaroute traversing the Alps all the way from Monaco to Trieste (near Croatia). Now, obviously, I won't be walking all of that, but to enjoy the towering Austrian scenery, a few stages here and there certainly won't go amiss, even with the troublesome waves of rain that persisted today. These mountains are known as the Karwendel mountains, and they are simply beautiful; I mean, when the lingering mist eventually dispersed, the enchanting Laliderer wall came into full view, dominating over the deep valley.En savoir plus

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  • JJ WeeksAn Afternoon StrollVoyageur
    Looking back up to the mountains after descending to the village of Eng
    Morning View from FalkenhütteLamsenjochhütte perched on the saddleAbsolutely vast wall littered with screeA little descentLamsenjochhütteDeep, deep valleyAnother section of pathStopping for a beerCompleted more than two sections of the Via Alpina today

    Jenbach

    31 juillet 2023, Autriche ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Day 52:
    Distance: 32.03 km (1,699.59 km)
    Steps: 45,266 (2,425,961)
    Move time: 7h07 (378h02)
    Spend: £35.07 (£817.49)

    🇦🇹 Falkenhütte to Jenbach. 🇦🇹

    A day of such high highs, and such low lows, and roughly correlating with altitude. The view from the mountain hut dormitory this morning was unbelievably beautiful, and despite probably being the last person to set off for the day out of laziness, I made the arduous ascent up to Lamsenjochhütte in good time, while soaking in the absolute glory of the serene mountain scenery. At the hut, I even stopped to allow myself a beer: a wise decision before taking on the 1,500 metre descent slightly tipsy. These Alps and Austria have already been such a huge highlight, though. It was only when I stopped for a break nearing the valley floor that the euphoria wore off, and upon taking off my boots, I saw the damage done to my feet. My toes red raw and feet agonisingly sore, I could barely shuffle any further. Luckily, I just about made it to Jenbach through gritted teeth, where I managed to catch a bus a kilometre or two onto this campsite in Wiesing. I'm not usually one to believe in fate or the alike, but sometimes I think that if you need something badly enough, it'll find you in your hour of need. So low and behold, I unknowingly arrived here at 18:27, before reception closed at 18:30, and they found me a small corner to pitch my tent for some desperately needed rest. Tomorrow will also likely be a rest day.En savoir plus

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