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An Afternoon StrollAn Afternoon Stroll
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An Afternoon Stroll

June - September 2023
A walk. Read more
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Backpacking, Camping, Culture, Hiking, Nature, Self discovery, Solo travel, Vacation, Wilderness, Wildlife
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  • TravelerAn Afternoon Stroll
    2

    Beachy Head

    June 19, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Distance: 42.77 km (351.77 km)
    Steps: 61,125 (503,515)
    Move time: 9h39 (80h41)
    Spend: £4.54 (£47.64)

    Getting in the groove. Except, easy tiger; as soon as I set foot on the seven sisters cliffs, my phone showed it was apparently more keen to get to the continent than even me, not only switching to the French internet provider at every opportunity, but also even convinced that I needed to see the French timezone on my lock screen. Mind you, lumbering up the cliffs did make me feel like I was already living a French lifestyle (i.e. wheezing to the point that it felt like I'd had a pack of cigarettes for lunch.) After a late finish though, it's time for bed, and it's the first time I'll be sleeping with seven sisters so that's cool (hey, I'll try anything once.)Read more

  • TravelerAn Afternoon Stroll
    1

    Fairlight

    June 20, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Day 11:
    Distance: 42.20 km (393.97km)
    Steps: 59,917 (563,433)
    Move time: 9h28 (90h09)
    Spend: £22.78 (£72.42)

    Y'know, at about 8 pm, I had exactly how today's post would go already written out in my head; something along the lines of 'Some days everything just comes together. The walking feels easy, you get to see a part of the world you've not explored before, and there's even time to get drunk.' But obviously, life never is that easy, and with the golden light ebbing away beneath the horizon, I still hadn't found a place to pitch up for the night. I had been eyeing up Hastings Country Park on the map, but upon ascending to its entrance, I saw its strict byelaws on wildcamping. Now, in reality, I'd probably have been fine, but personally, I'm still even now cautious about where I choose to call home for the night. And so, I pushed on in spite of numbing foot pain until after dark where I've settled for a spot just beyond Fairlight. With a trip like this, and like anything in life, the only inevitability is that things will always go at least a bit wrong, and every single day. It's never about how many times you fall, but always about how many times you pick yourself back up. Every day without failure, I have periods of undeniable determination where I'm convinced I'll make it the entire way, and other periods in the very same day where I feel I can barely take a single step more (and it's only day 11!). But it's pushing your limits and proving yourself wrong that's part of the addiction.Read more

  • TravelerAn Afternoon Stroll

    Hamstreet

    June 21, 2023 in England ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Day 12:
    Distance: 32.44 km (426.41 km)
    Steps: 46,824 (610,257)
    Move time: 7h40 (97h49)
    Spend: £2.45 (£74.87)

    Fairlight to Hamstreet.

    What do I remember of today? Other than clambering over a barbed wire fence over a river with Ne-Yo blaring in my ears, it'd probably have to be exploring the medieval towns of Winchelsea, once known for its wine trade evidenced by its countless cellars, and Rye, once known presumably for being something other than a cereal grain. Oh, and I'm in Kent now, so that's cool. I am pretty whacked though so goodnight England (and soon to be goodbye England.)Read more

  • TravelerAn Afternoon Stroll
    122

    Folkestone

    June 22, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Day 13 (& Day 14: Rest day)
    Distance: 24.83 km (451.24 km)
    Steps: 35,272 (645,529)
    Move time: 5h33 (103h22)
    Spend: £13.24+£116.52 (£203.63)

    Thursday feels like a whole world ago already. It's strange to remember that seeing my own face in the mirror of an ALDI toilet must have been my first time doing so in actual days, and yet it was literally just yesterday. I already do miss being back on the road, but this time will be different to anything before; met with, honestly, nerves as well as excitement; soon to be gone are the comforts of old blighty: the visits from friends, the wetherspoons, and the explaining of what the hell you're even doing in your own mother tongue. Hell, even the familiarity of passing your average tracksuit-cladden British teen yob, spitting in the street. Anyway, more importantly, I can not understate the enormity of my thanks to Alan and Joanna for their unbelievable kindness and welcoming in having me here, despite never even having met me. It goes such a long way to have had the chance to wash, plan, and reset before heading off onto bigger adventures. Kindnesses like this are those which I will never forget. I also just wanted to say thanks to anyone who has supported me for this first leg of the journey, whether it be by coming out to join me, donating to the fundraiser, or even having shown an interest and read one or two of these posts, you are all legends and I honestly could not appreciate it more:)Read more

  • TravelerAn Afternoon Stroll

    Oye-Plage

    June 24, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Day 15:
    Distance: 34.05 km (485.29 km)
    Steps: 48,787 (694,316)
    Move time: 7h43 (111h05)
    Spend: £0.00 (£203.65)

    How do you sum up a day like today? Perhaps one of the most defining days of the trip, as I placed my maiden footprint on continental Europe. And it really was the sort of day you dream of when you set out on an adventure like this. It had everything; the coastal cliff scenery at Dover, the logistics of navigating the Ferry terminal, meeting a fascinating stranger (I met an incredible Dutch lady, also an author, and as the only other obvious hiker as a ferry footpassenger, it turned out she was just starting on another hiking epic of walking from Canterbury to Rome, having also hiked all over Japan and Europe before), some sketchiness around Calais, a change in culture and landscape (perhaps the most startling difference in France is the lack of hedgerows, they just don't have them like we do, and so when it's flat, boy is it FLAT. You can see for absolute miles, so that'll be fun to try and discretely wildcamp in), an even the unexpected kindness of a stranger (the unbelievably generous campsite owner here let me stay for absolutely free and even gave me a coin to be able to have a shower! Honestly, startling kindness, I'm pretty sure that just wouldn't happen in the UK.)Read more

  • TravelerAn Afternoon Stroll

    Wulverdinghe

    June 25, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Day 16:
    Distance: 35.52 km (520.81 km)
    Steps: 51,055 (745,371)
    Move time: 8h06 (119h11)
    Spend: £6.01 (£209.66)

    Oye-Plage to Wulverdinghe.

    In spite of loading up on several litres of water to start the day (and quite uncharacteristically so), I found myself quickly rationing my draining supply under the sapping heat of the Pas-de-Calais sun. France practically seems to shut down on Sundays, and I barely saw another soul in any of Gravelines, Bourbourg, or Watten (today's main towns) to help replenish my supply, except in making the early morning pilgrimage to a boulongerie. Regardless, the lack of water taunted me repeatedly and at length, and just as I thought salvation was upon me with the evening appearance of a churchyard tap, it didn't work. Sometimes things just don't go your way, but equally sometimes they do. And shortly after, I found myself exchanging a 'bonsoir' with a friendly local chap. Despite his lack of English and my very limited French, he quickly clocked my situation and eagerly invited me into his house, where, amidst the chaos of his three daughters and two dogs, I was able to refill my bottles. I never even intended to head to a campsite tonight, but following perhaps the most broken (and somehow yet wholesome) conversation possibly ever, the whole family accompanied me to out to this delightfully cheap spot, where I have even been able to wash my suncream-stained shorts (and let's hope nobody steals them in the night while drying, because they are literally my only pair. Otherwise it could well be underwear all the way to Istanbul.)Read more

  • TravelerAn Afternoon Stroll
    1

    Bailleul

    June 26, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Day 17:
    Distance: 42.21 km (562.42 km)
    Steps: 59,858 (805,229)
    Move time: 9h23 (128h34)
    Spend: £5.15 (£214.81)

    Wulverdinghe to Bailleul.

    Mash, mash, mash. Mash out some miles, (instant) mash in the stomach, mash head into inflatable pillow. The app I use to navigate has two different modes; the first is 'tourist' mode, which pleasantly directs you between picteresque local attractions, typically via quiet, waymarked footpaths. The other is 'fast' mode, and God does it mean it, sending you recklessly beelining towards your destination in the most direct way imaginable, and often with little regard for your safety or enjoyment. Yesterday, my route was dictated by tourist mode (if you can't tell yet, this walk is very much just the 'no plans, just pure vibes' type), but after a close inspection of the map at the end of the day, I was left underwhelmed by the ground I'd made. So, being frankly unbothered by much of the scenery for this section of the mission, I decided to dial in fast mode for the day. A flurry of busy road walking later, and I find myself exhausted in the middle of a public park in Bailleul, worryingly close to Gendarmerie Station (police to you and me). Best hope I'm awake before they are.Read more

  • TravelerAn Afternoon Stroll
    1

    Lille

    June 27, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Day 18 ( + Day 19: Rest Day)
    Distance: 35.28 km + 14.96 km (612.66 km)
    Steps: 51,192 + 22,299 (878,720)
    Move time: 8h23 + 4h05 (141h02)
    Spend: £20.35 + £26.06 (£261.21)

    Bailleul to Lille (to Wasquehal).

    It can be difficult to know how to start writing these entries. Sometimes, I start by just writing about what happened that day, and then I realise, what does it even matter? It's not really important what I did, just what I took from it. And well, yes, French pedestrian crossings might be entirely useless (and terrifying) for one, and, yes, I might be the only person north of the channel to so much as own a Renault Twingo. But more to the point, being able to have meaningful discussions and learn about the world through another's experiences has really been everything I've gained from Lille. Everyone has a story to tell, and unfortunately, I don't quite have the French to be able to understand those of others', nor to tell my own with any real purpose in the depths of the French campagne. But it turns out that proper conversation really is fundamental to what it means to just feel like a human (woah who'd have thought). And one thing I often get asked is 'Don't you get lonely?' Well, to be honest, I'm not really sure what the actual answer is to that, maybe sometimes? The truth is that you don't really need much. But what you do occasionally need is just to be with the right people, and in the right environment. So thanks to Patrick from Nantes and to Matteo (& Hippolyte!) for making my time in Lille. Life is nothing without people!    Read more

  • TravelerAn Afternoon Stroll
    15

    Tournai

    June 29, 2023 in Belgium ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Day 20:
    Distance: 33.67 km (646.33 km)
    Steps: 48,411 (927,131)
    Move time: 7h47 (148h49)
    Spend: £24.40 (£285.61)

    Wasquehal to Tournai.

    Now that I've crossed over the border into Belgium, I think I can safely say, "God save the King, and down with the Republic." But honestly, although I do enjoy a good stab at the French, everyone I met in Northern France was absolutely lovely, even though the terrain was truthfully a little uninspiring. But can we hear it for England by the way. In my experience, Brits are often far too quick to dismiss our own country; either it's boring, it's expensive, or it's just plain not worth an adventure, especially outside of national parks. Personally, I love hiking in middle England; terrorising golf courses, touring battered castles, and grazing the diverse nature of the English countryside will forever be my jam. There's adventure to be found everywhere in life, and that even includes the pancake flats of Hauts-de-France. Adventure is a mindset, never a place. But back to today; the journai to Tournai was honestly a very easy one, and I barely feel like I've done any walking the past 3 days at all really. I shan't complain though, this evening I've enjoyed exploring the moody, cobblestoned gothic streets of Tournai, a very picteresque city steeped in history, which has also treated me with a monster kebab and a hostel for the night.Read more

  • TravelerAn Afternoon Stroll

    Peruwelz

    June 30, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Day 21:
    Distance: 34.86 km (681.19 km)
    Steps: 50,306 (977,437)
    Move time: 7h56 (156h45)
    Spend: £0.00 (£285.61)

    Tournai to Peruwelz.

    Since I already missed hating on it so much, I actually dipped my calloused toes back into France today, this time with one eye over my shoulder after my comments yesterday. Being beaten to death with a baguette was only second on my list of irrational concerns though, as, despite the seeming ever-present promise of rainfall from the loom of the swirling black clouds overhead, the skies have held firm pretty much all day. I don't have a whole lot else to say about today really; I feel as though my exploration has been more heavily mental than physical this afternoon, but I won't write about that here haha. Anyhow, I just wanted to say thank you so much for all the generosity that has been shown in donating to the fundraiser already, we have already raised £730! I really do appreciate it, and your donations make a whole lot of difference, not least to my motivation as well!Read more

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