Europe Sabbatical

July - August 2017
A 28-day adventure by Will Read more
  • 36footprints
  • 5countries
  • 28days
  • 204photos
  • 0videos
  • 1.7kmiles
  • Day 8

    Train ride to Nice

    July 30, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Woke up early for one last swim (I let Laura keep sleeping) before we packed up and checked out. A series of delayed trains made our ride into France take a little longer than planned, but we made it with plenty of time left in the afternoon to walk around and have dinner.

    We went past kilometers and kilometers of beach, which made for an interesting view on the way over. Monaco and Monte Carlo were impressive as well, but I'm glad we're staying in Nice instead.
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  • Day 8

    First Night/Dinner in Nice

    July 30, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    After checking in, we headed over to old town to stretch our legs after sitting still most of the day. Before we made it down there, we climbed up to the city's observation point to get a good view of Nice and see the very pretty man-made waterfall.

    After taking in the layout of the town, we headed down to see the cathedral at the center of town, have a drink, and do some people watching.

    The concierge had recommended a restaurant featuring live jazz, which caused Laura's face to light up, so we headed there for dinner and had another fantastic meal, wine, and dessert (apple tart flambe). It's a good thing we're doing so much walking to burn it all off.
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  • Day 9

    Driving in the French Alpes-Maritimes

    July 31, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    We had booked a canyoning trip that required us to get up at 6am to get a rental car to drive three hours to the rendezvous point, but when 6am rolled around we both decided to consider the reservation fee a sunk cost and roll over for some additional sleep.

    When we finally did get out of bed, we decided to take a leisurely drive through the mountains, and see if we could find a mountain stream to take a dip in. We failed to find much in terms of rivers, streams, or lakes (at least nothing that seemed like it didn't carry terrible bacteria), but the drive was nice and the views staggeringly impressive.

    On the way up we stopped in a tiny town that had a outdoor restaurant, and had pizza and a half pitcher of the house wine. Feeling energized, we started zigzagging our way up and down the mountain roads.

    Our highest elevation point was probably at a tiny town called St-Aubun, which had a mountain trail tucked away in the very back of the town. I'm 60% sure that climbing it was at least discouraged if not illegal, but there was a cool ruined archway at the top I really wanted to check out.

    On the way back down we stopped at another time town to have a beer. We speak minimal French, and they spoke minimal English, so it was mostly gestures and pantomimes when it came time to order. No idea what kind we had, but it was fun to watch the town dogs while we sipped.
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  • Day 9

    2nd night in Nice

    July 31, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Since we failed in our quest to find a place to swim up in the mountains, we desperately wanted to hit one of the beaches Nice has to offer. The water was fantastic, and the surf made for a great swim.

    Feeling like we had gotten some much needed exercise after a day in the car, we headed back into old town to find a good place to eat. Once again, dinner was first rate. Nice is a great place to walk around at night, with a lively stretch along the beach and promenade.

    Also pictured was the tiny elevator in our hotel, which had a nasa-style rocket launch countdown as you ascend. Laura was not amused.
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  • Day 10

    Heading to Avignon

    August 1, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F

    Our time in Nice was over all too soon, and we started to pack up to hit the road. Before hopping in the car, we realized we hadn't yet had a single crepe in France, and headed back into old town to correct that.

    We saw the flower market (which is really more a farmer's market), and bought some fruit to snack on during our drive.

    Getting out of the city was a bit rough, as our GPS failed to perform, and the maze of one way streets compounded our confusion. It was slated to be a pretty quick drive, but we hit a terrible traffic jam -- they had closed the other side of a major highway due to a logging truck going over the railing and spilling it's cargo all over the road. It probably doubled our drive time, and we were both very much ready to get out of the car by the time we pulled in to Avignon -- it was beer o'clock.
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  • Day 10

    Night in Avignon

    August 1, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 90 °F

    Avignon is definitely one of our favorite places we've been to on the trip, and was worth enduring the traffic jam. The place we stayed at was impressive, and you never would have known looking from the outside. A small square building contained a long hallway that opened up into a beautiful courtyard, with stairs leading up to a few sets of rooms. Our room was very nice as well, and we admired the stonework and general sense of history it exuded.

    I really wanted to try some more French beers, so we stopped at an outside bar to sample one.

    We walked around the city, and to the end of the Point d'Avignon. Somehow the official mistook my "can we go in" gesture for "I'm doing a bad job of it, but I'm showing you my tickets", so we saved a couple Euros and got in for free.

    We found another great little restaurant outside for our dinner and wine, and just hung out there sipping on a rosé until we called it a night.
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  • Day 11

    Palais de Papes

    August 2, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 93 °F

    Before leaving Avignon, we hit the Palace of the Popes, which was one of the coolest places we've gone in on the trip. The history of its construction, it's inhabitants, and the sieges laid against it through the years were fascinating for both of us.

    They were also using the space for an exhibit for African art, which seemed fairly mismatched. We largely ignored it and focused our attention on the architecture, history, and artifacts.

    We probably spent a solid two hours there, and needed to hustle back to the hotel to grab our belongings and hit the road to head west for Bordeaux. Laura always wanted to run out of gas on the highway of a country where we don't speak the language, so I pushed our luck a bit to make her happy. We made it, but returning the car to the rental place tested our patience. Time for a glass of wine...
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  • Day 12

    Biking around Bordeaux

    August 3, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Spent our first day in Bordeaux leveraging the City bikes to get around and see the various points of interest, stopping here and there for lunch or a glass of wine.

    We managed to find that little trinket that we had been looking for as a souvenir for Laura, a pretty little handmade bracelet from a small shop we happened upon.

    We've seen lots of very cool cathedrals in Italy and France, and Bordeaux is no exception. The place we rented on Airbnb is a legit mansion, and definitely the nicest of the trip.
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  • Day 12

    Second dinner in Bordeaux

    August 3, 2017 in France ⋅ 🌙 72 °F

    After having eating roughly half the baguettes in France over the past few days, I was dying for a lower-carb, higher-protein meal, so we booked a reservation at 'La Tupina'.

    When we walked in and were greeted by the sight and smell of meats roasting over a wood fire, I knew we had picked the right place. We had ham, scallops, duck breast, and duck confit paired with a bottle of Bordeaux wine.

    For dessert, Laura had red berry sorbet, while I had a pour of 30 yr old Armagnac.

    Delicious.
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  • Day 13

    Bordeaux wine tour

    August 4, 2017 in France ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    We had time to kill before we needed to board the van that would take us out to the vineyards, so we hopped back on the bikes and rode up to a lake on the north end of Bordeaux and had lunch.

    Once it was time, we hopped on the bus and started the 45 minute drive out to Château de La Dauphine. Our driver and guide was impressively knowledgeable, so the drive itself was enjoyable and we learned a fair bit about the land, local winemakers, and business.

    At the Château/vineyard, we got to see the Château itself, which was a very old building that had been abandoned/looted and then restored by the previous owner. We walked over to a plot of the actual vines, and learned about the upkeep, growth, and harvest. This year many vineyards lost a sufficient portion of their yield due two days of frost, but the place we were touring only lost about 10%. Since then, the weather has been great, hot and dry (the vines should struggle for water), so it's looking like it'll be a good year if things continue for the next two months until it is time for harvest. They only have 10 people working the several hundred acre land year round, with another 50 seasonal workers for a three week harvest. They run an organic operation, so they're constantly on the lookout for disease or bug infestations to contain and prevent further spread.

    From there we moved on to where they press and ferment. They have a state of the art gravity fed system, which is very atypical for the region. They explained how the seeds and skins rise to the top, and they run the juice through it twice a day for ~three weeks, giving the wine it's color and tannins.

    Then we saw the barrel storage area, and learned about the different barrel vendors and toasting levels that are used.

    At the end of the process, they end up with 100,000 of their 'first wine' - the one they get to name after their Château, and another 50,000 of their 'second wine'.

    We finished off the tour with a game of trying to guess several vials of different extracts by smell. The correct answers were Strawberry, Smoke, Vanilla, and Cherry. We got two of four right (way off on Cherry, but super close on smoke -- we thought it was either smoke or tobacco). They served us a glass of their second and first wine, imparting the methods of viewing, nosing, and tasting them.

    We hopped back in the van and role to another, more modest Château. We tasted the grapes there, had another few glasses as well as some bread/cheese/meat/chocolate.

    Finally, we took a short trip to the nearby town of St. Emillion, named after a hermit monk and walked through the cathedral and town. The cobblestones were a bit treacherous after the wine, but we both made it without any new cuts or bruises.
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