BROOME OR BUST

Just stopped for a visit in Gwalia, and honestly it was amazing. We are still riding the outback high. It’s not just a place — it’s an experience, one that wraps you up in red dirt and a whole lot of history. It’s a walk through time alright.
First stop: the Gwalia Museum — and let me tell you, it’s so much more than dusty relics and old mining gear (though there’s plenty of that too). We were lucky enough to meet Wendy, the absolute gem of the museum. She didn’t just show us around — she took the time to really share the stories behind the town, the people who lived there, and what made Gwalia tick.
Wendy had this amazing way of bringing everything to life. The old cottages, the steam engine, the mine manager’s office , the gardens— all suddenly felt like parts of a living story. Absolute highlight.
One of the most moving parts for us was learning about the horses that worked deep underground in the Sons of Gwalia mine. Real, strong, stoic animals that hauled heavy loads in dark, narrow shafts — day after day and lived underground! OMG
Wendy shared how these horses were lowered into the mines and sometimes lived most of their lives underground, playing a massive role in keeping the gold flowing. It’s something you don’t often think about — but those horses were as much a part of the town’s lifeblood as the miners themselves.
We were heartened to find out that when the mine closed in 1963 the miners were so enamoured with their working horses that they insisted they be given an appropriate paddock to see out their final days.
We also went into Hoover House, the old mine manager’s residence (yep, designed by future U.S. President Herbert Hoover). It’s now a cozy B&B with views that stretch across the open pit mine. Imagine sipping a wine,while the desert light shifts over rusted iron and ochre soil. Scary as Fuck!
Afterwards we wandered through the ghost town itself. Like stepping through a time warp. Corrugated iron shacks, wood-fired stoves, sagging verandas — you can almost hear the footsteps of miners heading to work. Each cottage has its own story to tell of a miner or a family that called this home.
Gwalia is rich with stories — especially if you’re lucky enough to meet someone like Wendy. She made the experience unforgettable and has since emailed us more information. Bless!
If you’ve got an ounce of curiosity, and a love for history, and a soft spot for the weird and wonderful, make the trip into Gwalia. Well worth the time.
Next overnight stop is Sandstone with its neat wide streets and well tended tributes to mining history. The pub is momentarily closed but the Post Office cafe was an oasis. Such a beaut old building and two women doing a stella job providing weary travellers with the rest and treats they need before travels. It’s also a must stop. We are loving our outback adventures. Loving discovering new spaces and places.Read more