Broome Day 2

A Day of History, Farewells & a Sneaky Art Purchase or two!!
Today was one for stretching the legs and stretching the mind. We wandered Broome’s streets under wide blue skies, digging into itsOkumaya devam et
A Day of History, Farewells & a Sneaky Art Purchase or two!!
Today was one for stretching the legs and stretching the mind. We wandered Broome’s streets under wide blue skies, digging into its complex and confronting past. White Pearl Divers of Broome by John Bailey has been my companion lately—a gripping, eye-opening read that doesn’t shy away from the raw truth. Broome’s “Wild West” history is both fascinating and infuriating, especially the brutal treatment of Indigenous people and the ugly, racism that permeated the era. What’s hardest to get my head around is just how recent much of it really is. It makes me very cross.
In between the history lessons and local stories, we turned our attention to the Tommi camper—our faithful home on wheels. It got a good clean-out and a bit of a sprucey wash ready to hand over to Rod (Jan’s brother-in-law), who’ll be continuing the Tommi camper adventure up north-east. It’s a strange feeling—closing the chapter on the camping leg of our journey. There’s something final about packing away the folding chairs and rolling up the last dusty camp mats.
We’re flying to Perth tomorrow, so tonight was all about packing things into bags in order to fit them neatly on plane . We complete this part of our journey with dinner and catch-up drinks at Matso’s with Rod. And yes… we may have slipped into the Black Stump Gallery and emerged with a “souvenir” or two. Couldn’t resist. The art here is extraordinary .
Tomorrow, a new phase begins. For now, Broome leaves us with full bellies, full minds, and maybe a little red dust still in our shoes.Okumaya devam et
From Wallal Downs Station, we hit the road early for the final 350km stretch to Broome. The morning begins with a refreshing walk along Eighty Mile Beach — all to ourselves. The soft white sand, turquoise waters, and the treasure trove of shells are spectacular.
Back at camp, we enjoy a fresh fruit breakfast while the morning sun slowly lifts the heavy dew from our tents. But we can’t linger too long — we’ve got a sunset sail booked in Broome, with pick-up scheduled just after lunch. Yikes, time to get moving!
Arriving in Broome, we’re delighted by its iconic beauty: white sand beaches, dazzling turquoise waters, and not a trace of its torrid pearling past in sight. We’re staying at Moonlight Bay Suites, just out of town, with stunning views of the mangroves and ocean from our balcony.
After a whirlwind unpack (and multiple loads of washing shoved into our own machine — the ultimate travel luxury!), we’re whisked away by the charming young Oscar in a mini-bus headed to Cable Beach. Our destination: the majestic Willie, an ex-pearl lugger, for a sunset cruise.
The trip includes scrumptious canapés, and of course, we can buy wine (yes please!). Once underway, the boom net is cast — inviting anyone daring enough to be dragged through the warm Indian Ocean. Great fun… until poor Jan gets stung on the bottom by a jellyfish. Ouch! A dab of vinegar helps, but only just.
Still, spirits remain high as we sail on. The sunset paints the sky with magical hues of red, orange, blue, yellow, and green. With sails full and the scent of salt air all around, we soak up every sound, sight, and sensation of the ocean.
Back on dry land, Oscar suggests a great Thai spot for dinner and even offers to drop us there after everyone else is dropped off — what a gem! The people we meet on this trip continue to amaze us with their kindness, beauty, and generosity.Okumaya devam et
Red Dust, Jasper Rocks & Ocean Breezes.
Today we did our best to pack up camp early at Marble Bar and set out to see the actual Marble Bar—the fascinating rock formation that gave the town its name. Though originally thought to be marble, it’s actually jasper, a beautifully patterned rock. Recent cyclones and floods have devastated the region, uprooting tall gum trees and depositing sand across the landscape. Despite the changes, we managed to find some jasper samples with Zoe’s help and admired their intricate patterns.
We chose an alternate route out via Bore Line Road, heading into Coppin’s Gap. The road turned to dirt, and the final stretch required a 4WD—complete with a tricky little creek crossing. The gorge itself felt wonderfully remote, although a few tourists with drones broke the stillness.I took a beautiful, crisp, and refreshing swim in the clear water. It was cool but invigorating.
Leaving Coppin’s Gap, we continued along Bore Line Road in search of the old township of Shay Gap. We’d just met a policewoman who had worked there in the 1990s. Now, there’s barely a trace—just remnants of a bitumen road hinting that a mining town once stood here. We were astonished by how completely these mining settlements are dismantled, leaving little more than memories behind. It’s a lovely spot nonetheless, ringed by rocky hills and great views—perfect for lunch (yet another of our trusty salad-and-tuna wraps, a consistent and appreciated staple!). I don’t usually write much about our meals, but today reminded me how yummy even the simplest lunches shared in stunning locations can be.
From here, we pushed on toward the coast. Our fellow traveller Zoe had secured us a night at Wallal Station, just behind the dunes of Eighty Mile Beach. It’s a free camp on station land, and you can hear the ocean from our tents. A quick stroll over the dunes brought us to the beach—a truly breathtaking stretch of coastline.
Later, we drove up to the caravan park at Eighty Mile to meet Zoe’s friend Jacqui for sunset drinks overlooking the Indian Ocean. She shared fascinating insights into BHP’s current desert wind farm and hydrogen power projects, and even gave us a little tour of the mining workers’ accommodation.
Back at our station camp, we rustled up a delicious Mexican-style feast—complete with fresh avocado, cheese, salad and sour cream. A delicious end to the day.
As night began to fall, a strong dew set in and the temperature dropped quickly. We snuggled into our respective sleeping spaces for an early night, lulled to sleep by the sound of ocean waves. This is our last night camping. While there’s a touch of sadness in that, I’m definitely looking forward to a real bed that doesn’t need setting up and packing down every morning.Okumaya devam et
GezginThose one nighters - set up, sit around and marvel, eat, sleep, get up, eat, pack up and go are what you have to do. I love it so much when we have a chance to leave the PJs under the pillow and do two nights or more (a rare occurrence).
Today we woke up beside the serene Sherlock River. So many birds greeted us—swans, pelicans, ducks, plovers, and mudlarks. Despite camping right by the roadside, the night was surprisingly quiet.
We made our way into Port Hedland for a bit of a look around. The salt hills were absolutely stunning—massive, shimmering white mounds rising like man-made glaciers against the horizon. We wondered what it might be like to ski them or if any had !
We found a pleasant picnic spot for a late breakfast, with a view that was equal parts industry and ocean. Such a fascinating contrast.
Afterward, we took the Goldsworthy dirt road into Marble Bar—a beautiful drive on a good road, shared only with a few wandering Brahman cattle. About 40 km out from town, we spotted the turnoff to Dooleena Gorge. What a stunning spot to free camp (next time for sure!). As inviting as the water looked, I wasn’t game for a swim—crocs have made it here in recent years. Yikes!
In Marble Bar, we stayed at the very quaint and shaded campground. A quick visit to the museum, then off to the local pub for dinner—a perfect way to end the day.Okumaya devam et
We tried our hardest to pack up early this morning… and made it out by 8:45am! Okay, not exactly the early getaway we hoped for, but still not bad.
First stop: Python Pool. And we couldn’t believe our luck—we had the whole place to ourselves. The water was absolutely freezing, but so refreshing. It felt incredibly special to share a swim with no one but the towering rock “gigantors” watching over us, like ancient stone guardians. We noticed cattle had been through recently—hoof prints etc.
Just as we climbed out, the peace was shattered by the whirring of a drone. Grrr… honestly, they should be banned in serene places like this.
From there, we took the Whim Creek–Wittenoom dirt road, winding through some of the most gorgeous scenery. Along the way: rugged escarpments, changing geology, and that unforgettable moment with a massive Brahman bull, complete with the biggest hanging… well, you had to be there. 😳
We passed landscapes that looked like basalt jigsaws, before stopping briefly at Pyramid Station, settled way back in 1865. Hard to imagine living so remotely back then.
Next up was the beautiful old town of Roebourne, rich in history and Indigenous culture. The locally run supermarket and art gallery were an unexpected gem—warm, welcoming, and full of character.
In the afternoon, we made our way to the Dampier Peninsula and Murujuga National Park. There, we joined a walking and talking tour of the ancient rock art with our guide, Pete “Coops” Cooper—absolutely brilliant. We were blown away by carvings of Tasmanian tigers, devils, dingoes, fish, and spiritual figures, believed to date back 20,000 to 40,000 years. It’s hard to grasp just how ancient and significant this place is.
In a funny twist, we bumped into people who know mutual friends and family back home. Small world, even out here in the remote Pilbara!
By late afternoon, we were back on the road, driving to our overnight spot at Sherlock River, a free roadside camp. The road trains thunder by every 10 minutes or so, but we’ve got a cozy campfire, and the river is just stunning. Swans and other birds diving, frolicking, and catching the last golden light—it’s moments like this that make the long days on the road so worth it. Living it.Okumaya devam et
Leaving Karijini, we made sure to grab a quick shower—our last one for a couple of nights! It felt like a luxury before we headed off to rough it a bit.
The landscape changed dramatically along the way. We left behind Karijini’s dramatic gorges and towering escarpments, and the terrain gradually gave way to wide open grassy plains.
A quick stop at Tom Price, a mining town which had the best coffee. Here we secure a mine road permit so we could drive along the Rio Tinto Access rail road. Omg. Lucky we have the very dedicated Zoe with us to watch the induction video! About 20 km down a mine access road, we found ourselves stopped at a red signal. Welcome to Hamersley, Western Australia—Rio Tinto country.
Out here, their massive iron ore trains stretch up to 2.4 kilometers long (that’s 1.5 miles!), with up to 236 wagons ( Jano counted 244) each hauling 116 tonnes of ore. Fully loaded, these behemoths can weigh around 29,500 tonnes.
And yes, they’re driverless.
Which is fine—until there’s a problem. Then they stop. Completely. Like the one we encountered.
We ended up stuck at a rail crossing for 1 hour and 35 minutes, waiting for a call to go from site control all the way to Perth to approve someone to manually move the train.
Omg, what a wait. Remote travel really throws you some surprises.
Millstream Homestead greeted us with a sense of quiet history. Once a thriving pastoral station, the homestead still stands, and walking through it is like stepping back in time. The stories of the early settlers and traditional custodians are thoughtfully presented—so much to learn and reflect on.
Nearby, we visited Deep Reach Pool on the Fortescue River—a wide, serene stretch of water that feels almost surreal in the surrounding arid landscape. Sadly, signs of a fire that swept through the park about a year ago are still evident. It was started by a lightning strike and has left a scar, burning much of the vegetation and some park infrastructure.
Still, nature shows its resilience. We hiked up to the Cliffs Lookout, which offered stunning views—an oasis amidst the harshness, truly breathtaking.
Tonight, we’re camping at Stargazers Campground, which feels fitting under these expansive night skies. We’re constantly in awe of this beautiful country and how quickly and dramatically it can change.
Dinner was an absolute treat—Mexican lentil mix loaded with veggies, spices, creamy avocado, cheese, and a dollop of sour cream. Delicious and hearty. We really do eat well on the road! And for the wine lovers among us—don’t worry, we’re well stocked.Okumaya devam et
We wake to the sound of wind. But we’re not worried—it won’t trouble us too much today. Our plan is to walk the Dales Gorge, where we’ll be sheltered beneath ancient rock walls.
Our first stop is the Karijini National Park Visitor Centre. What an incredible place—rich with information and insight. Karijini’s story spans over 350 million years. It’s a land shaped by deep geological forces and equally deep cultural connections. The history here is layered: indigenous heritage, the pressures of mining, and the ongoing efforts of conservation. You can feel the tension between environmental preservation and resource extraction, a theme woven into the very rocks which surround us. “Prospectors have sought its resources and conservationists have sought its protection”.
From the centre, we set off along the escarpment, taking in vast views before descending into the gorge itself. The rock walls tower around us, banded like slices of tiramisu—layer upon ancient layer. In some, we notice the telltale blue glint of asbestos seams—a reminder of the land’s mineral richness and terrible hazards.
We pass giant paperbarks, flowering wattles, and pale ghost gums. The creek bed leads us along the gorge floor, cool and quiet. Eventually, we reach the waterfalls and a stunning swimming hole—an oasis carved by time and water. We plunge in. The water is cold and revitalising. Pure refreshment.
As we climb out and begin the walk back, the sun starts to dip. The colours shift around us—reds deepen, shadows stretch, and the landscape seems to breathe. There’s a magic here, ancient and alive. Karijini is not just a place—it’s an experience etched into the land and into us. You feel its spiritual energy all around you.Okumaya devam et
Karijini is truly one of the most magical places on the Australian mainland and its wonderment has found its way into your heart as it has mine. In retirement, I have been fortunate enough to have been to this spiritual place four times; three times with adult children and grandchildren and l look forward to my next visit in mid August in the company of our two youngest grandchildren Thanks Irene for sharing your journey Your writing is always heartfelt and provides a true insight into the places you visit. Regards Peter [Peter Flahavin]
GezginOh thanks Pete. It really has touched our heart and soul. We feel so blessed.
Today we said goodbye to the turquoise waters of Ningaloo, and our great new kayak friends and headed inland, leaving the coast behind for the heart of the Pilbara.
The landscape changed dramatically as we drove — from desert-like red sand dunes to the striking mesa rock formations that define this ancient region. According to our geologist, these mesas were formed thousands of years ago. They rise like flat-topped islands from the earth, remnants of a time when softer underlying layers eroded away, leaving behind these dramatic, table-like formations.
The scenery was breathtaking — raw and vast, with the rugged Hamersley Ranges unfolding around us in ochre, rust, and deep red tones. This land feels ancient.
We spent around seven hours on the road, slowly winding our way through the ever-changing terrain. We arrived at Karijini Eco Retreat just in time for sunset, the sky a blaze of gold, orange, and pink — a perfect welcome.
We set up camp under the changing light, surrounded by the beautiful white ghost gum trees and ancient stone. From sea to desert to mountains, it’s hard to believe all this beauty fits in one journey.Okumaya devam et
What a spectacular day out on the Ningaloo Reef! After meeting at Tantabiddi boat ramp and the all important briefings, we set sail towards a morning snorkel site. We stopped in at Sahara's where we saw lots of reef fish, anemone fish and big coral bommies! We then met up with our pilot Duncan to start looking for whale sharks.It didn't take too long to find some so we geared up for a swim. There was quite a few around and we saw a good range of sizes from 4 to 8m today. We swam with 5 different sharks for about an hour today which is amazing!
The whale shark is one of the ocean’s most breathtaking creatures — a true gentle giant. Its massive body is beautifully marked with a constellation of painted dots and pale lines, like an artwork in motion. In fact a group of them is called a constellation! Despite their size, whale sharks move with effortless grace, gliding through the water as if it takes no energy at all, while we fin frantically to keep up.
They have tiny eyes which sit on either side of a wide, flat head, giving them a curious, almost shy expression. Apparently their enormous mouths — are capable of filtering thousands of litres of water — as they open gently to feed on plankton and tiny fish, never posing a threat to anything larger ( thankfully us).
Swimming alongside one is humbling. Peaceful, slow-moving, and serene, these stunning creatures command awe not with their power, but with their quiet calm beauty. These creatures really are gentle giants. It felt incredibly special to swim alongside them.
We then had lunch and some went for an afternoon snorkel at clarkies sharkies where they saw some stingrays and a reef shark. We finished up with some drinks and afternoon tea on the way home with some dugong spotting. The company was called Ocean Eco Adventures and ran like a well oiled machine. Very professional. More photos to come.Okumaya devam et
We’re starting to find our rhythm on the water — paddles in sync, gear packed just right, and the wind finally easing off a bit. With lighter conditions, today’s 10 km paddle along the western edge of Ningaloo Reef felt smoother, and very relaxed.
Ningaloo is one of the largest fringing reefs in the world, stretching over 260 km along Western Australia’s coast. Unlike the Great Barrier Reef, you can literally step off the beach and be snorkeling above coral gardens — which is exactly what we did.
We made two snorkel stops today: first at the famous Oyster Stacks, and later at Turquoise Bay. Oyster Stacks was absolutely teeming with marine life — schools of fish swirling around us in dazzling numbers. It was like diving into a living aquarium. The coral was vibrant in patches ( clearly making a comeback) and the visibility crystal-clear.
Turquoise Bay lived up to its name. Calm, warm water and an easy drift snorkel made for the perfect afternoon swim. Floating above bright coral and watching fish dart in and out of crevices. Colours of the sea and sand are spectacular.
We set up camp just above the dunes tonight — another remote, beautiful spot. As the sun set over the ocean in a blaze of gold and orange, we sat quietly, soaking it all in sipping wine and enjoying our cheese platter. It’s so great to know we now protect these pristine waters.Okumaya devam et