We are Andrea and Mark, an ex-teacher and a retired engineer from the UK. We love travelling slowly, exploring new destinations, discovering different cultures, tasting local foods, meeting people, and enjoying every single day we are on this earth. Read more Mablethorpe, United Kingdom
  • Day 200

    Paxton House

    April 20 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We were up early for our pre-booked visit to Paxton House. Although it was just the other side of the river from our campsite, we decided not to risk crossing the Union Chain Bridge in Bertha. When we looked at it the other night, it seemed rather narrow. Instead, we drove along to the next road bridge and crossed there, adding about half an hour to our journey.

    When we arrived, we were a little early for our guided tour, so we had a look around the museum of the Ellem Fishing Club. Founded in 1829, it is the oldest fishing club in the world. Members fish for trout in the Whiteadder river, which runs into the River Tweed just east of Paxton. It was fascinating to see all the old hand-tied flies.

    Paxton House is a Palladian villa built by Patrick Home in 1758, shortly after the union between Scotland and England was established. The house is located in Scotland, just 250 metres from the border. It is a fine example of the design and craftsmanship of architect John Adam and furniture maker Thomas Chippendale. There are approximately 400 surviving pieces of Chippendale furniture in the world. Incredibly, over 100 of them are found in Paxton House, all of them especially made to fit the space and Adam's design.

    Eight generations of the Home family have occupied the house. In 1988, the latest incumbent, John Home Robertson, gifted it to the nation. He and his family now live in a more modest building on the estate.

    Our guide, Graham, was very knowledgeable. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take photos in the main house, so with this footprint 👣 are shots of the house's exterior and the grounds.
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  • Day 199

    A wander around Berwick

    April 19 in England ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    After completing our walk around Berwick's ancient walls, we made our way to the bus stop to head back to the campsite. Our plan had been to get there before the honey farm next door closed. However, when the bus finally came (over half an hour late), the driver told us that he wasn't going our way! This was despite it saying on the board, and on the app, that he was! So, we had no choice but to walk up to the other end of town to the railway station to get a taxi. When we got back to the site, the honey farm was closed 😩.

    We'll just have to come back this way one day! 😂
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  • Day 199

    LS Lowry in Berwick

    April 19 in England ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    Berwick Museum recently acquired a painting by LS Lowry. 'Beach Scene' is believed to have been painted in 1960 and depicts the beach and sand dunes in the former fishing village of Spittal.

    Laurence Stephen Lowry (1887 - 1976) is a well-known artist recognised for his paintings of industrial scenes in the northwest of England. His works depicting the northeast coast and Berwick-upon-Tweed are less well known.

    Lowry was very fond of Berwick and regularly holidayed in the town from 1934 until the year before he died. He stayed at the Castle Hotel near the railway station. His first known painting of Berwick is of Marygate and is dated 1935. He painted about 30 finished pictures of the town.

    There is now a Lowry trail so that visitors can follow in the artist's footsteps and take in his inspirational viewpoints.

    Also attached to this footprint are some general shots of Berwick, taken as we continued our walk.
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  • Day 199

    Berwick Museum

    April 19 in England ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    Berwick Museum is located in the Clock Block of Berwick Barracks. The building was originally a storehouse for military supplies.

    The museum has an eclectic mix of items to tell the story of Berwick's past. There are two stars of the collection - an original painting by LS Lowry, which I'll talk about in the next footprint, and the Ord Cross, a tiny but significant item with an incredible history.

    The Ord Cross was found by a detectorist on the banks of the River Tweed and dates from the 7th to 10th century. It is made of gold and inscribed with the name Eadruf. He must have held a position of wealth and importance within Anglo-Saxon society to have owned such a valuable item. Because of where it was found, we presume the cross was lost by its owner as he was walking on the Anglo-Saxon highway, as the river is also known. It is most likely that Eadruf was a cleric or courtier.
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  • Day 199

    Berwick Barracks

    April 19 in England ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    Halfway round the walls, we spotted Berwick Barracks with the English Heritage flag flying high over the entrance. As members, we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to look around.

    In the early 18th century, under the threat of Stuart claims to the crown of Great Britain, large barracks were built within the town walls in an open area called Ravensdowne. Today, Ravensdowne Barracks stand as a prominent reminder of more uncertain times. They were completed in 1721 and were one of the first purpose-built barracks in the country. They were also the largest, accommodating up to 636 soldiers in the 18th century. The last regular soldiers left the barracks in 1964.

    There are four blocks of buildings around a barracks square. The grand stone arched entrance is original and has the coat of arms of George I (1714 - 1727) above it.

    A wash house originally stood in the centre of the square. It was the only place where the 600+ soldiers stationed here could get cold water to wash and to take back to their rooms for cooking! The square was also a place of ceremony, parade, drill, and punishment.
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  • Day 199

    Berwick-upon-Tweed's ramparts

    April 19 in England ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    After the boat trip, we retraced our steps into town and stopped in the first pub we came to to get warm and have a bite to eat. Suitably refreshed, we went in search of the tourist information office which was located in the town's library. The lady there was very helpful and friendly. She gave us a map and advised us to walk around the ramparts to get a good overview of the place.

    A medieval town wall was first built in 1297. The huge walls and ramparts we see today were built between 1558 and 1570, during the reigns of Mary I and Elizabeth I. Their purpose was to defend the town at a time of English-Scottish conflict.
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  • Day 199

    Estuary boat trip

    April 19 in England ⋅ 🌬 7 °C

    Our boat trip around the estuary of the River Tweed took us a little way out into the North Sea - not too far as it was a bit choppy and none too warm! Nevertheless, it was an enjoyable way to spend an hour, and the captain provided an entertaining commentary with lots of local information. We spotted a seal and lots of birds, but, sadly, no dolphins.Read more

  • Day 199

    Berwick-upon-Tweed Bridges

    April 19 in England ⋅ 🌬 7 °C

    It was a much brighter morning today. It was still cold as we headed for the bus stop, but at least the sun was shining!

    We caught the bus into Berwick-upon-Tweed town centre and then headed along the riverside pathway to the quay where our pre-booked boat trip would depart from.

    Berwick is the northernmost town in England and has a population of just over 12,000. It is situated at the mouth of the River Tweed on the east coast 56 miles from Edinburgh. For more than 400 years, the town was central to the border wars between England and Scotland, and it changed hands several times. The last time was when Richard of Gloucester retook Berwick for England in 1482. To this day, many local people feel a close affinity to Scotland, and both the town's football and rugby clubs play in Scottish leagues 😀.

    The first thing that struck us as we walked along was the number of bridges across the river, carrying traffic, pedestrians, and trains. At one point, it is possible to photograph all three main bridges in one shot!

    The oldest bridge is called, unsurprisingly, the Old Bridge! It was commissioned by James VI of Scotland as he was travelling south to claim the English throne in 1603. It is a 15-span sandstone arch bridge 355 metres long and is part of the Great North Road from London to Edinburgh. It was completed in 1624, meaning that this year is its quatercentenary! The local council, though, has chosen now to do 'necessary repairs', so half of this beautiful bridge is covered in scaffolding and plastic!

    The Royal Tweed Bridge is the newest bridge in town. It was built in 1925 to carry the A1 road across the Tweed. It is 110 metres wide, which, at the time of its construction, was the longest concrete span anywhere. The A1 was diverted onto a bypass around the town in the early 2000s, but the bridge is still very much used by local traffic.

    The third bridge in Berwick, and probably the most impressive, is the Royal Border Bridge. It was designed by Robert Stepehson and completed in 1850. It is a 658-metre long railway viaduct with 28 arches and was opened by Queen Victoria. Today, it carries the East Coast Main Line nearly 40 metres above the River Tweed.
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