• Happy Days Travel
  • Mark Wade
okt. 2024 – mai 2025

South American Adventure

This epic eight-month overlanding trip through South America has been a long time in the planning! We will be visiting Colombia, Ecuador, Bolivia, Chile, Peru, Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, and Brazil. Exciting times! 😊 Les mer
  • Machu Picchu

    5. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The bus ride up to the entrance to Machu Picchu took us up a winding road. We passed many people trudging up in the wet to save the US$25 round trip bus fare! We were glad we'd opted to take the bus.

    At the top, we joined the queue for the 8am entry. They let us in bang on time, and we began our three-hour tour with Julius. There were 10 people in our group. Julius proved to be a very knowledgeable guide, and we thoroughly enjoyed our time with him. It was a huge bucket list tick for us. We have dreamed about being in Machu Picchu for years, and now it was our reality! It didn't disappoint! The weather could have been better, but Julius was right - the clouds did lift from time to time to allow us to see the place in all its glory and we were able to get some lovely photos. We feel privileged to have been there and to have been allowed to explore so extensively. Julius predicts that within a couple of years, the authorities will no longer allow people to walk amongst the ruins. Tourists will be restricted to a viewing area at the top of the site. This is due to a number of visitors disrespecting the place by urinating, defecating, and fornicating here!!

    Machu Picchu isn't mentioned in any of the chronicles of the Spanish conquistadors. Apart from a couple of German adventurers invthe 1860s, who apparently looted the site with the Peruvian government's permission, only the local Quechua people knew of Machu Picchu's existence until American historian Hiram Bingham was guided to it by locals in 1911. The site was initially overgrown with thick vegetation, forcing Bingham's team to be content to roughly map the place. He returned in 1912 and 1915 to carry out the difficult task of clearing the thick forest. At this time, he also found some of the ruins on the Inca Trail.

    Despite many more recent studies, knowledge of Machu Picchu remains sketchy. Even today, archaeologists have to rely heavily on speculation and educated guesswork as to its function. Some believe the citadel was founded in the waning years of the last Incas as an attempt to preserve their culture, while others think that it may have already become an uninhabited, forgotten city at the time of the conquest. A more recent theory is that the site was a royal retreat or country palace of Pachacutec, abandoned at the time of the Spanish invasion. Its location and the fact that at least 8 access routes have been discovered suggests that it was a trading hub between Amazonia and the highlands.

    It seems clear from the exceptionally high quality of the stonework that Machu Picchu was once vitally important as a ceremonial centre.
    Les mer

  • Return to Aguas Calientes

    5. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    After our tour, we said our goodbyes to Julius and returned to Aguas Calientes by bus.  When we got there, we headed straight to a café overlooking the centre of town and the railway line.  We enjoyed watching the scene unfold below us as we drank our coffee and shared a piece of chocolate torte.

    We then had a walk around the town.  It's very reminiscent of an alpine resort and is totally geared up for tourists with a plethora of restaurants, bars, photo opportunities, and souvenir stalls.  I bought a silver ring with the seven colours of the Cusco flag, which are the same as the colours of the rainbow and also of the LGBT symbol.  I'm very happy with it.
    Les mer

  • Lunch and wandering

    5. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    At 12.30pm, we headed to the designated restaurant for the lunch that was included in the price of our tour.  It turned out to be the only disappointing thing in our two-day trip.  The food was OK, but the service was terrible!

    After lunch, we returned to our hotel to pick up Mark's bag.  There was a huge moth on the entrance door!

    We were far too early for our train, and it was a bit too wet to walk further, so we went to another coffee shop overlooking the river to sit and enjoy an affogato.  From our vantage point, we saw lots of hummingbirds flitting about.  Unfortunately, we didn't manage to photograph any of them!
    Les mer

  • Return to Cusco

    5. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Our train departed promptly at 4.45pm.  There is no Vistadrome carriage on the return journey, so we remained in our allocated seats.  We were served a similar snack box to yesterday.  For entertainment, we had a dancer and a bizarre fashion show put on by the PeruRail crew!  It's one of the weirdest things I've ever seen!  I was so shocked, I didn’t even take any photos!

    We disembarked in Ollantaytambo, where we were met by yet another representative of the tour company and transferred back to Cusco by minibus.  It was dark by now and very hot in the vehicle.  I felt very sick but managed not to be!

    Back at the Pariwana Hostel, we checked in again, picked up our bags from storage, and retired for the night.  It had been a great trip - one to remember for years to come.
    Les mer

  • Visiting CTTC

    6. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We spent the morning at the hostel.  I was in the co-working area catching up with posts, and Mark was fixing the tent bag and other more mundane tasks.

    At about 2pm, we went out to explore a bit more of Cusco.  Our first stop was at CTTC (The Centro de Textiles Tradicionales del Cusco), a non-profit organisation established in 1996 by Andean weavers to ensure the survival of Cusquenan textile traditions and to provide support to the indigenous people who create them.

    The quality of the work produced and the colours used are phenomenal.  We paused to watch a fascinating demonstration.  I desperately want to learn how to weave, but I don’t have time on this trip to take one of the three-day courses they offer.  I'll have to come back!
    Les mer

  • Qorikancha, the Convent of Santa Domingo

    6. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    From the weaving centre, we walked a short distance up the road to visit Qorikancha. This place was once the richest temple in the Inca empire, built in the mid-15th century during the reign of Tupac Yupanqui. When the Spanish arrived, they tore it down and used the foundations to form the base of the colonial church and convent of Santo Domingo. All that remains now of the Inca structure is the masterful stonework. The temple was built out of basalt, and the walls were inclined at a 14-degree angle to help stop them from collapsing during an earthquake. All the Incan homes, palaces, and temples had this anti-seismic feature.

    Post-conquest, Francisco Pizarro gave Qorikancha to his brother Juan, who bequeathed it to the Dominicans. It remains in their possession today.
    Les mer

  • Walk through Cusco and a late lunch

    6. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    From Qorikancha, we walked up to the Plaza de Armas, Cusco's main square.  On the way, we passed more Inca ruins.  They weren't even marked on my city map, so I've no idea what they were!

    In Inca times, Plaza de Armas was called Huacaypata or Aucaypata and was the heart of their capital.  Today, it's the nerve centre of the modern city.  Two flags usually fly here - the red and white Peruvian flag and the rainbow-coloured flag of Tahuantinsuyo representing the four quarters of the Incan empire.

    We went to a local Peruvian restaurant on the corner of the plaza for lunch.  I had pork skewers, and Mark had aji de gallina, a traditional chicken dish cooked in a sauce of cream, ground walnuts, cheese, and chillies.  Both were very good.
    Les mer

  • A few hours wandering around Cusco

    7. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We had breakfast, and then I spent a couple of hours in the co-working area before going off to explore a bit more of Cusco.  Mark wasn’t feeling great, so he stayed in the hostel.  We arranged to meet later for a late lunch.

    First, I headed back to the Plaza de Armas.  There was some kind of parade and ceremony going on.  Everyone, even the tourists milling around, had to stand still and pay their respects while the national anthem was played.

    When I had seen enough, I walked up a cobbled street full of boutiques and souvenir shops.  I bought myself a couple of bracelets to replace ones that have fallen off.  A local guy pointed out the meaningful patterns in the Inca stonework for me.  ln exchange for a couple of soles, he explained their significance.  It was fascinating and not something I would have noticed by myself.
    Les mer

  • Exploring San Blas

    7. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I continued my walk through the artist's district of San Blas.  It's full of arts and craft studios - right up my street!

    As I walked, the heavens opened!  Luckily, I had my waterproof jacket with me, but I still got absolutely soaked!  Typically, there was no coffee shop in the immediate vicinity!  As I headed back down the hill towards the square, I found Jill's, an independent café that looked like the perfect place to dry off.  My blood sugar was low this morning, so I treated myself to a coffee and an interesting-tasting piece of blueberry cheesecake flavoured with sesame.

    Suitably refreshed and a little drier, I made my way to the cathedral. 

    Cusco Cathedral in the Plaza de Armas is a squatter on the site of Viracocha Inca's palace.  It was built using blocks stolen from the nearby Inca site of Sacsaywaman.  Construction began in 1559 and took almost a century.  It is joined by the 1536 Iglesia del Triunfo to its right and the 1733 Iglesia de Jesus Maria to the left.  The entrance fee gives you access to all three churches.  Unfortunately, you are not allowed to take photos inside any of them.  I did, however, take one sneaky one of the bright blue altar in the main cathedral, complete with a 3-metre diameter Christmas wreath lit up with thousands of fairy lights in front of it!
    Les mer

  • Museo Maximo Laura

    7. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    From the cathedral, I headed up a street I hadn’t walked up before.  I came across Maximo Laura's exhibition studio.  The glorious colours of his works displayed in the windows drew me inside.

    Máximo Laura Taboada is a Peruvian tapestry weaver, recognized as one of South America's most unique textile artists.  He is also known for starting the contemporary tapestry movement in Peru.  Laura is the fifth generation of weavers who learned his craft as a child at the side of his father while growing up in Ayacucho.  As a young man in his 20s, Máximo sold his tapestries to pay for his studies in literature. However, his love of tapestry took over, and he devoted himself to his art.

    I thoroughly enjoyed my time in the exhibition.  Oh, to be able to create work like that!
    Les mer

  • Museum of Monastic Life

    7. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I crossed the road to visit the Museum of Monastic Life in St Catherine's Monastery.  I had no idea what to expect, but it turned out to be a real highlight of my time in Cusco.

    In Inca times, the site of Saint Catherine's Monastery was occupied by a compound called the Aqllawasi, which means 'house of the chosen maidens' in Quechua.  It was inhabited by Aqllas, women from noble families chosen from all over the Inca Empire for their beauty and high lineage.  They entered the Aqllawasi when they were young and stayed within its walls for the rest of their lives.  They were strictly forbidden to have any contact with men and were obliged to remain virgins until their death.  The Aqllas were seen as being wedded to the Sun and other deities venerated in Cusco.  Their main occupations were the production of fine textiles for the Inca court and the preparation of ceremonial beverages.  These two activities were considered sacred.

    The first Europeans who arrived in Peru called the Aqllas 'nuns'.

    The Monastery of Saint Catherine of Siena was founded in 1601 in the city of Arequipa, but it was soon moved to Cusco after a series of natural disasters occurred in Arequipa at the beginning of the 17th century. 

    The foundation of the monastery was the initiative of Dona Isabel Rivera de Padilla from Arequipa.  She possessed a great fortune.  In February 1605, the first 25 professed nuns arrived in Cusco.  After changing locations within the town, the monastery was established on the site of the ancient Aqllawasi.  It's highly likely that the former function was taken into account when the site was chosen. 

    In 1650, the new monastery was destroyed by a devastating earthquake.  The reconstruction work began soon after with the foundation of the new church, which has been preserved to this day.  It's a simple building with a single nave extending along the northeastern facade of the monastery.  The church is home to the statue of Our Lady of the Remedies, the Patroness and Protectoress of the monastery since its foundation, and the object of great devotion by the people of Cusco.

    Today, 13 professed contemplative nuns live in the Monastery of Saint Catherine of Cusco.  They are followers of the Dominican order.   Their main spiritual task is to support with their prayers the preaching activities of the friars and of the church in general.  The rules of the order prescribe for them a strictly cloistered life, although this restriction has been softened in recent decades.  Their cells are located in the two interior cloisters behind the church. 

    Since the colonial period, the nuns of St Catherine's have become famous for their sophisticated embroideries of liturgical vestments and saints robes and for their delicious pastry.

    Many of the paintings in the monastery are attributed to anonymous Cusco artists.  They are all 18th-century oils on canvas.  I don't know why they haven't been attributed to specific artists. 

    In the first room you come to, there is a wooden statue of St Catherine of Siena dating from the 17th century. 

    The next room is the mortuary room, where vigils were kept over deceased nuns.  Ujtil 1924, their bodies were displayed in the carved wooden bier before being moved to the cemetery located within the monastery.

    Also on the ground floor is the workroom where the nuns did their embroidery, sewing, lacemaking, and other handicrafts still practised at the monastery today.
    Les mer

  • My visit to St Catherine's continues

    7. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I next visited the study. Intellectual education was one of the essential elements of a nun's preparation. It included the study of the holy scriptures and theological writings.

    One of the most surprising rooms in the monastery was the Chapter House, the meeting room for members of the religious community. Nuns often confessed their misdeeds at these meetings, and penance was imposed upon them. The Chapter House is highly decorated with murals attributed to Tadeo Escalante of the Cusco School in the late 18th century. The paintings are divided into three bands. The lower one has decorative geometrical designs, the middle one represents earthly pleasures, and the upper band has the figures of sainted hermits symbolising the triumph of spirit over sin and temptation through penitence and an ascetic life. The areas over the arches have angels and archangels symbolising glory through penance.

    Upstairs, the first room you come to is the refectory where members of the religious community ate together. In the past, conversation was forbidden during meals. One of the sisters would read holy scriptures while the others ate.

    There is also a room where examples of the nuns' embroidery work on liturgical vestments are on display.

    The next room I visited was the novitiate, which was used until 1960. Here, young girls who had just entered the monastery would live with their teacher for a period of four to five years. Today, the novitiate lasts between seven and eight years. Newcomers had to bring with them their personal belongings, a bed, a set of sheets, linen, a table, a chair, a lavatory set, and contribute a dowry to the monastery. The novices cells are on the left side of the room, and their washing facilities are on the right.
    Les mer

  • More photos of Saint Catherine's

    7. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ 🌩️ 14 °C

    The next room I explored was the Foundress's Cell.  The foundress of the monastery, the Spanish-born widow Lucia de Padilla, arrived in Cusco from Arequipa in 1605, accompanied by 24 nuns and 2 secular pupils.  Several members of Lucia's family were among the nuns, including her daughter, Isabel.

    I then had a look around the monastery's art gallery.  Among the treasures are three canvases attributed to the renowned 17th century indigenous artist Diego Quisepe Tito.

    I really enjoyed my time in St Catherine's.
    Les mer

  • Ceremonies in Plaza des Armes

    7. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    From the monastery, I walked back up to the main square to have a look at the nativity scene.  There was some sort of indigenous performance going on.  It was raining, but I stopped to watch.  I would love to know more about what it meant.

    After standing for a while, I walked up to Bodega 138, an Italian restaurant Nikki had recommended, to meet Mark for a late lunch.  It wasn't very Peruvian, but the pizza definitely hit the spot!
    Les mer

  • Posh lunch out

    8. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I spent the morning in the co-working area writing. Later, we went out for lunch to a restaurant we had spotted the other day. It was upmarket Peruvian food and it was all delicious. They brought us homemade sourdough bread and spiced butter to start with. We then shared a home smoked trout starter. For mains, I had Peruvian chicken cordon bleu, and Mark had a duo of local chorizo, one pork, and one lamb.

    On the way back to the hostel, we stopped to watch a celebration of the Festival of the Immaculate Conception.
    Les mer

  • Leaving Cusco

    9. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ 🌩️ 9 °C

    After eight days in Cusco, we were back on the road this morning. I was sorry to be leaving! I feel like there is so much more to see in the city and the surrounding area. Hopefully, we'll come back one day!

    We met Nikki in reception at 6.30am. She organised taxis for all of us to take us to a garage on the outskirts of the city where Ritchie would pick us up. It all went smoothly, and we were soon on our way to Chivay with our packed breakfast from the hostel and a tub of fresh fruit each from Nikki. We had a flask of coffee with us, and we shared the two chutas we'd bought at the market with the rest of the truck. They went down very well.

    Once we left the city behind, we drove through stunning fertile valleys where corn and other crops were growing in abundance. We continued through pretty towns and villages where all the ladies were in traditional dress. It wasn’t easy to photograph because it was cold and drizzly, and we had the truck windows shut.

    We drove alongside the Cusco to San Jeronimo railway line for quite a long way. That would be a good journey to make.
    Les mer

  • The drive continues

    9. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ 🌩️ 11 °C

    Later in the morning, after a toilet stop, we climbed up to over 4000 metres again.  The landscape changed dramatically.  We were now seeing rolling hills littered with imposing rock formations with a backdrop of jagged mountains.Les mer

  • Lake views and a truck lunch

    9. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We drove up and down winding roads. At one point, we passed a stunning lake with cultivated fields in the foreground and stunning peaks behind.

    We stopped for lunch in a scenic spot. We were at an altitude of 4050 metres, but it felt surprisingly warm. We had cheese salad rolls followed by carrot cake to celebrate Sam and Meghan's engagement. It was a very good truck lunch!Les mer

  • On to Chivay

    9. desember 2024, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Soon after lunch, we came to an unfinished bridge across quite a wide river.  It looked like it had been in that state for quite some time!  We were forced to cross the rather rickety old bridge next to it!

    We drove on past numerous herds of llamas and alpacas through ever-thickening cloud and darker skies.  Before long, the heavens opened!  It rained heavily for the next couple of hours of our drive before the rain changed to hail and sleet!

    We kept climbing, reaching an altitude of 4800 metres.  There was snow on the mountains and even the roadsides all around us.  Several people on the truck, including Mark, were complaining of headaches and a shortness of breath.

    We left the snow behind but remained at over 4000 metres.  We drove past remote communities and isolated hydroelectric projects.

    Darkness fell, and we could see no more!
    Les mer