Holy Cannoli

Hello from Ortigia ,Sicily. Tara, Mike and I RV’ d with Al (Mike’s brother) and Natalie in Sicily almost a week ago. Al had rented a car as he volunteered to be the driver. We headed out to our first destination, Acireale but a short ways from the airport we got our first taste of the terrible roads and crazy drivers of Sicily. Someone cut us off, Al hit an immovable cement object and a flat tire ensued. Unable to decipher the car’s manual, or operate the tire changing tool, we realized a little late that no one in the group had brushed up on their Italian. Fortunately a friendly off-duty policeman, who must win every game of charades, stopped and helped us put on the spare. He then showed us pictures of his family and explained - in sign language- that he had once arrested a Canadian. He seemed very proud of the fact and we assured him that we were law abiding Canadians ( and Brits). Our first encounter with the Sicilian people was very positive.
From our first hotel stop we did day visits to Taormina a town built high up on a mountain in about 400 BC with a spectacular amphitheatre. The stage is still used for concerts but it was missing a singer that day (Caitlin). We took a day to visit Mount Etna, which at approximately 11,000 feet, (and growing) and can be seen from almost anywhere in the region. Etna is the tallest, active volcano in Europe having erupted just this past summer. It’s always smouldering a bit with a threatening wisp of steam coming off the top. The cable car was closed so we were taken up the mountain by bus. We chose not to go all the way to the upper craters because it requires a $$$$ special guided tour. Seems when people were allowed to freely roam around the craters a few tourists got too close and lost their footing - not good for business. The landscape on the volcano is black and bleak. In fact, except for the views back towards the ocean there wasn’t much to see. We hiked the few kms back down to our car and were covered in black sook which we spent that evening washing off ourselves and our socks/ shoes.
The past few days we have been in the lovely sea-side town of Ortigia. There is an active port outside our hotel and we can wander around lots of back alleys in town for bars/ restaurants and walk a beautiful promenade. From here we have visited a few of the area hill towns including Noto, a world heritage site. There was a huge earthquake in Sicily in 1693 that destroyed the ancient towns in the area and many were rebuilt in the Baroque style - so lots of ornate churches and buildings. The buildings are all built with a local type of limestone that is a pretty yellow colour in the sunlight. Another treat over the past few days was swimming in the ocean which is warm enough and very refreshing in the 30 degree plus heat.
Since we arrived, we’ve been filling the Sicilian food and drink bingo card. I had granita - what I can only describe as a Sicilian slushy. My travel mates like the gelato better but I found the granita very refreshing in the heat. We’ve tried arancini - a kind of deep-fried rice ball stuffed with various things. We’ve had a bit of seafood including some pistachio crusted tuna from the local seas ( a big hit), sardines and fried anchovies ( very salty). I had a world class cannoli for dessert the other night. It is filled with ricotta and not cream so heavy but not insurmountable. Yup, waistbands are tightening.
Yesterday we toured and tasted at a winery called Occhipinti that Stanley Tucci featured in one of his shows. It is an organic winery started by a young Sicilian lady. It was interesting to hear how they tackle the various problems including the extensive heat waves and now new pests species.
Sicily is one of the main ports of call for migrants looking refuge in Europe. However, except for a couple of “RESQ People” boats tied up outside our hotel, we have seen no evidence of the migrant issue. Most migrants land at Lampedusa which is much closer to Africa and are then transported to receiving areas. One church we visited had a beautiful cross constructed from the salvaged wood of a refugee boat that had broken up. Quite beautiful in a rough kind of way.
A couple of unanticipated things we’ve encountered include the terrible road conditions and insane drivers who ignore all lines, signs and rules. Poor Al - our long-suffering driver - has had some long days trying to get us to the various places on our itinerary. Hair-pinned turns, insufficient road signs, unpredictable drivers - well we’ve certainly been trying to calm his frayed nerves with beer at the end of the day. Most cars have bits bashed in. (Picture enclosed).
We’ve also observed that the garbage pickup must cost ++ money because some areas are full of roadside litter - an unfortunate eyesore in an otherwise pretty landscape.
Tonight we will be completely across the large island of Sicily in Trapani.
That’s all for now. On on we go……..
Love Heather / MomRead more