Wrapping up the Nakasendo Way

Good news from Japan - the oppressive heat broke on Sunday but, the bad news, it poured rain - the tail end of tropical storm Pulasan that came up from Shanghai, I believe . Our ever flexible Walk Japan guide, Tetsuo, adapted the program for the day and we spent more time in some cultural spots including a recreated post town “check point” in Kiso Fukishima. There, we had a chance to “play act” in Edo period costumes. Of course, Mike was selected to play the head Commissioner - the big ichiban. We also made an interesting stop for lunch in the Niso mountains at a place that served pizza, of all things!!! Ian was over the moon . I think he’s pretty much ready to trade his right arm for a hamburger right now. The little spot was run by an elderly couple with a small wood-fired oven who seemed to really enjoy having guests. They entertained us with traditional folk songs playing some kind of Japanese lute and an harmonica. On Monday we awoke to clear, sunny skies, cool temperatures and, mercifully, no humidity. Somebody’s prayer was answered. We enjoyed a wonderful day hiking up over a mountain pass. We also got our first ride on a bullet train known in Japan as the Shinkansen. The original Nakasendo Way was over 500 km long but much of that has been paved over. We’ve walked about 135 km of the trail on some of the most scenic stretches which has given us a real look at Japan outside the cities. Today was our last hike of 17 km from Karuizawa over the Usui Pass. We hiked in a comfortable Victoria-like temp of 18 degrees. The mountain trails were slippery in places and we had to check for leeches a few times, but overall it was a nice hike to end on. Last night was our final traditional Japanese inn. It’s been fun wearing the colourful kimonos (yukata) each night and we’ve enjoyed soaking in the onsen baths. However, I’ll be glad to be sleeping off of the floor tonight. It’s not the getting into bed that’s the problem, it’s getting out and since the walls are often paper - literally- there’s not much to lean into. Most of our meals have been eaten kaiseki style with many small plates of local and seasonal foods. We’ve eaten an amazing array of dishes, and there’s always a balance between salty,crunchy, tart and lots of mushrooms or miso umami- flavoured bases. We’ve had lots of soba noodles and an abundance of rice. Last night we had another spectacular feast of at least 12 courses including puffer fish sashima that I found rather chewy and tasteless( you gotta trust the chef !!) I still can’t quite get the hang of chopsticks, especially for things like soft eggs, and tofu which I manage to spray all over me so I generally avoid them. Sometimes there are spoons for soups but nary a knife or fork. As rare as garbage cans here.
Our general Japanese etiquette is much improved, although I made the mistake of putting our lunch trash in the washroom bin at the train station, evidently a no, no and Helen made the ultimate “faux pas” and wore her toilet slippers throughout the inn. Horrors!! She has undoubtedly ruined the Logan family reputation in Japan for generations to come.
For our enophile friends heading to Japan (not to be confused with our wino friends), we tasted some very nice white wine from vineyards around Nagano. Worth a shot in a sea of beer and saki.
We’re currently traveling away from the mountains and speeding towards Tokyo on a bullet train. Tomorrow we say sayonara to most of the walking group and start a 2 day tour of Tokyo.
In closing, I am sending Helen’s daily haiku:

Mist through dappled light
Hides majestic mountain tops
Down,down to Edo

More from Tokyo,
Love Heather/ MomRead more