Dec 2017 – Mar 2018

Coastal Crescent, 2018

A 70-day adventure by HerbAvore Read more

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Trip start
December 24, 2017
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Day 1
Sunday, December 24, 2017 at 11:34 AM
❄️ 1 °C
Altitude: 62 ft
United States Cutter Square 42.39119, -71.126342°23’28” N 71°7’35” W
Lesson in tolerance [Providence]
December 24, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ❄️ 1 °C
Seemed appropriate to start the year with a lesson in tolerance. On Christmas Eve we visited the Touro Synagogue in Newport, RI. It's also a National Historic Site and the oldest synagogue in the country. What makes it really special is a letter George Washington wrote to the congregation in 1790 after they had written congratulating him on his election. In his letter he spelled out his belief that the United States was founded on tolerance and that people should be free to practice their own religion. This document is ranked as one of the most important in US history.

Seems like revisiting these values will help make America great again.

You can read the letter here:

http://www.tourosynagogue.org/history-learning/…Read more
TravelerBeautifully said...
1/2/18Reply
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Day 11
Wednesday, January 3, 2018 at 9:34 AM
☀️ -7 °C
Altitude: 456 ft
United States Clarks Crossing 38.90483, -77.2887438°54’17” N 77°17’19” W
Ice-Nine [Boston]
January 3, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ -7 °C
For those who don't remember their 60s popular literature, ice-nine was a scary chemical in Kurt Vonnegut's novel "Cat's Cradle." Anyway, it's taking over the East Coast. When we left Boston on January 2nd it was -5 degrees.

As we traveled south we OD'd on battlefields and military parks. Valley Forge, Gettysburg, Antietam, Monocacy, Harper's Ferry. It will be nice to escape the gorey cauldron that shaped the US.Read more
Phil LoPiccoloMy fave author
1/9/18Reply
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Day 13
Friday, January 5, 2018 at 11:55 AM
☀️ -8 °C
Altitude: 377 ft
United States Ash Grove 38.93256, -77.2516138°55’57” N 77°15’6” W
Friends on ice [Vienna]
January 5, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ -8 °C
In stopping off in the DC area we were reminded of the only thing that makes us second guess our decision to move-- the good friends we left behind. Impossible to replace decades-long friendships.
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Day 15
Sunday, January 7, 2018 at 4:55 PM
☀️ -5 °C
Altitude: 171 ft
United States Strawhorn Creek 37.6613, -77.346337°39’41” N 77°20’47” W
Crazy [Richmond]
January 7, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ -5 °C
Sometimes it's the smallest detail that sticks when you visit a historical site. Cold Harbor, Va. was a sprawling landscape of carnage that included several major battles in one June 1864 fortnight. So, what did we walk away with? The plantation house [and later, Union HQ] where Patrick Henry was married is also where he kept his first wife chained in the basement. Supposedly, his wife was so crazy she had to be restrained.

Give me liberty... or just shackle me to the basement wall.Read more
John LovaasNow we find out what led to his famed quote about liberty and death!
1/16/18Reply
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Day 18
Wednesday, January 10, 2018 at 3:48 PM
☀️ 15 °C
Altitude: 30 ft
United States Jeanette Sedge 35.25383, -75.5328735°15’14” N 75°31’58” W
Hatteras/obx
January 10, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
Winding down the obx (Outer Banks) basking in the warm 60's weather. Saluted the Wright Bros at Kitty Hawk, pondered the lost colony at Ft. Raleigh (whatever happened to Virginia Dare?), and enjoyed lighthouses and surf to Hatteras. Lovely stop at KOA on the beach with giganto hot tub, ahhhhh...Read more
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Day 19
Thursday, January 11, 2018 at 12:49 PM
☁️ 17 °C
Altitude: 13 ft
United States Silver Lake 35.11606, -75.9862535°6’58” N 75°59’11” W
Bank Hopping [Ocracoke]
January 11, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Got a taste of island commuting as we worked our way down the Outter Banks. We spent half a day either waiting for a ferry or riding one. Along the way we picked up a hitchhiker/commuter who worked on Hatteras but lived on Cedar Island. She had quite a life story to tell.

Ended the day at Cape Lookout. It is quite a contrast from the hubbub of Hatteras. Nature is the dominant theme here as the Bank is roadless and only accessible by small Park ferry. There was even a lovely film about the Cape that was narrated by Meryl Streep. [Meryl Sheep to Sesame Street afficianados.]Read more
Linda MahanGlad to see you are enjoying the ferries, islands and local color. We worked our way up the islands with our bikes 14 years ago. Great memories of shrimp picnics on beaches.
1/12/18Reply
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Day 20
Friday, January 12, 2018 at 6:41 PM
🌧 15 °C
Altitude: 39 ft
United States Beaufort 32.43531, -80.6785332°26’7” N 80°40’43” W
Before Jim Crow [Beaufort]
January 12, 2018 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 15 °C
We covered a lot of ground today but most of it was wet and obscured by incessant rain. Our only stop was one of the newest parks in the system. The Reconstruction Era National Monument in Beaufort, SC. In fact, today was their grand opening. Alas, the Great Orange Haired One and his we're-not-racist cronies basically zeroed out the new monument's budget. So, nice building but no story to tell. Guess Jim Crow laws were fake history.Read more
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Day 21
Saturday, January 13, 2018 at 1:51 PM
☀️ 7 °C
Altitude: 26 ft
United States Fort Frederica National Monument 31.22388, -81.3909631°13’26” N 81°23’27” W
Fort-itude [Savannah]
January 13, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C
We visited the first of a string of forts dotting coastal Georgia and Florida. First up, Fort Pulaski. With a drawbridge, allligator patrolled moats, two-foot thick walls and the guiding hand of a young engineer Robert E Lee, Fort Pulaski was built to last. Except it didn't. The Union's nifty experimental rifled canon forced the Rebs to surrender it after one day of precision pounding. Gators, too.

We also visited Fort Frederica, further south in coastal Georgia. This colonial fort was the brainchild of James Oglethorpe and built to thwart Spanish designs up the coast. What gets lost in this fort story was how Georgia was founded more on the enlightened model of Pennsylvania and not just another slave-based economy. Wha' happened?Read more
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Day 22
Sunday, January 14, 2018 at 10:59 AM
☀️ 7 °C
Altitude: 56 ft
United States Garden Creek 30.43982, -81.4382130°26’23” N 81°26’18” W
Forts and Plantations [Jacksonville]
January 14, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C
Three more forts today-- Caroline, Castillo de San Marcos and Matanzas. Plus Timucuan, an ecological and historical preserve. The forts told various stories of colonial mahem and hegemony between the French and Spanish. And there was also the indingo/cotton plantation at Timucuan. A white slave trader who married and freed his 4 African (simultaneous) wives but advocated for continued slavery. Sent his kids to Hatti, the only free black nation in the new world then when the US took over Fla with more restricted black laws. Very weird.

One display related the various punishments meted out to slaves. Among them was 39 lashes for using foul language in front of a white person. Although it may sound insensitive one has to wonder what the punishment should be for using such language in front of an entire nation? Maybe wash his mouth out with soap.Read more
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Day 23
Monday, January 15, 2018 at 5:26 PM
☀️ 17 °C
Altitude: 20 ft
United States De Soto National Memorial 27.52351, -82.6446527°31’25” N 82°38’41” W
Canaveral seashore/ De soto [St Pete]
January 15, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Started out the day exploring the Cape Canaveral seashore donated to the NPS by NASA in the 60's. One of the last wild Fla seashores, terrific 30-40 foot Indian oyster shell middens. On to Brandenton on the Gulf side. See our tiny trailer next to the semis. Endured the De Soto memorial, 4 1/2 years of tortured Indian suffering by the cruel hands of De Soto in his relentless quest for new world gold. Oiy!!!!Read more
John LovaasI keep wondering when you’ll find the fountain of youth?! Have you hit St. Augustine yet?
1/16/18Reply
John LovaasPlease keep the metal lids forever and wear them often!
1/16/18Reply
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Day 24
Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 8:16 PM
🌙 16 °C
Altitude: 23 ft
United States Turner River Indian Reservation (historical)25.86693, -81.1148525°52’1” N 81°6’53” W
Gators and manatees [Everglades]
January 16, 2018 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 16 °C
Today we began the final push to complete the last few Florida parks we haven't seen before the looming government shutdown Friday night. So today was spent in Everglades NP. Awed with the amazing flocks of birds; wood storks, rosiate spoonbills, great and little herons, egrets, anhangas, black creasted herons, ... just amazing. Also caught 5 manatees lolling in the river.

Washing dishes this evening was more exciting than usual. The camp community wash basin is about 20 yards from a good-sized lake. As Lorraine washed Hunt held the flashlight but flicked it out to the lake where two glowing gater eyes watched us. We resumed washing with a bit more alacrity. Checked the lake. The eyes were closer to the bank. Rinsed. Checked. The eyes were gone. Needless to say we didn't get up for any midnight bladder relief.Read more
John LovaasThese. Guys look well fed, probably not very interested in a couple of thin bikers!
1/20/18Reply
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Day 25
Wednesday, January 17, 2018 at 6:16 PM
🌙 18 °C
Altitude: 36 ft
United States City of Florida City 25.39734, -80.6567625°23’50” N 80°39’24” W
Bike to Nature [Everglades]
January 17, 2018 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 18 °C
Deployed our folding bikes this morning for a 15-mile ride through the Everglades. This no-autos trail gives a good feel for the Everglades sea of grass. And it is loaded with wildlife. We brought binoculars but didn't need them. Reading glasses would suffice, the wildlife is that close. It's easy to take safety for granted as you bike within several feet of dozing gators.

After the bike ride in the "northern" Everglades we looped around to the south for a few short boardwalk hikes thru hardwood hammocks, and a lovely walk around this moving sea of grass. Saw a purple gallinule, a funny little bird with long yellow legs that walked over the lily pads squeeking like a rubber toy. A cool night camping in the Everglades. 45 degrees, brrr.Read more
Phil LoPiccoloWow. Cool!
1/18/18Reply
Linda MahanGreat to see the adventures continuing on the east coast. Guess you escaped the snow on this leg.
1/18/18Reply
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Day 27
Friday, January 19, 2018 at 10:39 AM
☀️ 16 °C
Altitude: Sea level
United States Fort Jefferson Seaplane Base 24.62767, -82.8725524°37’40” N 82°52’21” W
Another Fort & Ferry [Dry Tortugas]
January 19, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Up early to catch a two-plus hour ferry ride to one of the largest forts on the E coast; Dry Tortuga Nat'l Park. Huge frigate birds gliding over this island reef; at least 100 of them. Pretty impressive. Had a tour of this civil war fort where Dr. Mudd was imprisoned cuz he set John Wilkes Booth's leg after he shot Lincolin. One hot place to be incarcerated! Hard to believe this is one of the longest barrior reefs in the world until you drive to Key West and boat another 70 miles to it's end.Read more
John LovaasMuch prettier at St. Pete Beach this week. How long will you be confined at Dr. Kidd’s Dry Turtles?!
1/21/18Reply
Phil LoPiccoloAwesome
1/21/18Reply
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Day 28
Saturday, January 20, 2018 at 10:35 AM
⛅ 18 °C
Altitude: 16 ft
United States Palm Island 24.70983, -81.1014324°42’35” N 81°6’5” W
Turtle Rescue [Florida Keys]
January 20, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Having notched the last of the ten Florida National Parks on Friday we headed back to the mainland to visit our friend Krista Eaton in Miami. By chance we passed Florida's first sea turtle rehab center along the way and couldn't resist stopping for a tour.

The Turtle Hospital started as a motel. The owner became interested in sea turtles decades ago, tossed out the humans and put in sea water tanks. He now rehabs and releases dozens of sea turtles a year. All without government funding.Read more
Phil LoPiccoloNice!
1/24/18Reply
Linda MahanWhat a fascinating find and unique attraction.
1/25/18Reply
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Day 33
Thursday, January 25, 2018 at 2:27 PM
☀️ 18 °C
Altitude: 49 ft
United States Homosassa Springs 28.79923, -82.5872528°47’57” N 82°35’14” W
In search of the wild manatee [Ocala]
January 25, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
Drove up to Crystal Springs, Fla. in search of manatees. The ranger station, empty like the park, had a flyer telling us to go to Homosassa Springs State Park if one wanted to see manatees. We drove back south and discovered we were in a wild life /rehab park! Not what we had in mind, but fascinating nevertheless. There were 4 resident manatees and 3 being fattened up after a cold snap paralyzed them, but soon to be released. Gentle giants. But also saw bright coral pink flamingos, a pair of endangered whooping cranes, a green heron, golden eagles, and spoonbills. Plus a red wolf and a Fla. panther (poor imprisoned things).

Tons of vultures in this state despite dwindling numbers world wide. Apparently their stomach acid can neutralize anthrax, cholora, and rabies in dead kill. Amazing, go vultures!

Camped at spring-fed Rainbow Springs State Park with a lovely bike ride thru palm live oak forest. Neato!Read more
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Day 34
Friday, January 26, 2018 at 9:07 AM
☀️ 11 °C
Altitude: 105 ft
United States Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings Historic State Park 29.48043, -82.1604329°28’50” N 82°9’38” W
Yearling [Cross Creek]
January 26, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C
Visited Marjorie K. Rawlings home at Cross Creek, Fla. Just one of my favorite books! (Debra and Krista, this one's for you too!) She captures rural, old Florida; it's quirky neighbors, the hardship of managing an orange grove in the depression after her husband left her, and the ethereal beauty of the hammock and the St. John's river. (And malaria on top of it all). This is where she wrote her Pulitzer prize novel, The Yearling (up there with Ole Yeller for sobbing). Loved peeking into her 30's farmhouse and wandering thru her orange groves, now regrown into a hardwood hammock.Read more
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Day 35
Saturday, January 27, 2018 at 2:00 PM
☁️ 17 °C
Altitude: 43 ft
United States San Carlos Beach 30.34872, -87.2976830°20’55” N 87°17’52” W
Fort-Weary McClearys [Pensacola]
January 27, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
More coastal forts. Fort Pickens, built by slaves and, briefly, prison-home to the Apache chief, Geronimo. Ft McRee, which we fortunately didn't have to see because it was swept into the ocean decades ago. Fort Barrancas, which seems to have been occupied and modified by everyone from the Spanish in 1800 through little kids in the 1950s. [We joke about the slew of forts but we were lucky to have a personal tour of Ft Barrancas by a very knowledgeable volunteer tour guide.]

Also got in a couple good bike rides, including one on the Blackwater Heritage State rail-trail. Sixteen miles through semi-rural Florida. And a shorter one on Perdido Key, summer nesting refuge to many sea turtles and winter home of some yellow rumped warblers.Read more
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Day 36
Sunday, January 28, 2018 at 7:56 PM
☁️ 13 °C
Altitude: 587 ft
United States Horseshoe Bend Battle Ground 32.97165, -85.7376232°58’18” N 85°44’15” W
Ethnic Cleansing [Auburn]
January 28, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
Horseshoe Bend Nat'l Battlefield is one of those parks you want to hurry through. The things that happened there are that horrendous. Andrew Jackson learned the art of ethnic cleansing here where over 800 Creek Indians were encircled and killed at a cost of only 50 Americans. This was the largest massacre of native Americans in US history. His success here in 1814 launched him on a lifelong campaign of killing and later removing every Indian east of the Mississippi River. Some people say he was just a man of his time when colonists wanted land to settle, but hard to fathom the brutality.Read more
John LovaasThis is one of the Indian stories one hears litttle about....too little it seems.
2/1/18Reply
John LovaasAre there any remnants of the Indians who survived, if there were any, in the region? Monuments to them? Who best tells their story?
2/1/18Reply
John LovaasAre you headed for Durango?
2/1/18Reply
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Day 37
Monday, January 29, 2018 at 10:01 AM
⛅ 13 °C
Altitude: 449 ft
United States Carver Museum 32.42941, -85.7061932°25’46” N 85°42’22” W
Bama, Tuskegee
January 29, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
A couple day diversion up to Alabama continues (as New Orleans stuff not open on the weekend). I hate to draw stereotypes, but do see hound and pit bull dogs running loose, heard a hound baying all night, and managed to camp next to a train track with a shrieking whistle and roaring train half a dozen times last night. Oiy!

Visited Tuskegee Institute and the Tuskegee Airman's monument today. Hard to see the long journey blacks have had to travel to be recognized as intelligent and capable people. Ah, the cruel prejudice of our country. What must foreigners think when they visit our monuments? One airman said, "We served our country but they do not serve us" as they returned from WW 2 to Jim Crow laws.Read more
John LovaasWhat is Tuskegee area like? Has anyone written the story of the airmen after the war?
2/1/18Reply
TravelerThere are apparently two Tuskegees. One primarily African American around the institute and a mostly white town of Tuskegee a few miles away which we did not visit. Economic status hard to gauge. Plenty of books on Tuskegee airmen. They sparked integration of the military by Truman.
2/1/18Reply
John LovaasI meant what became of them as individuals after their wartime experience.
2/1/18Reply
TravelerJudging from the interviews in the visitor center film, many made the military a career. One became the first African American four-star general.
2/2/18Reply
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Day 38
Tuesday, January 30, 2018 at 12:51 PM
☀️ 7 °C
Altitude: 118 ft
United States Selma 32.42756, -87.0178432°25’39” N 87°1’4” W
Selma
January 30, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C
Up to now, every Park we've visited was history, natural or human. Selma is different. This is our living history. The Selma to Montgomery HistoricTrail recounts in pictures, film and audio the struggle of hundreds of African Americans and some whites to gain voting rights in the 60's!

Courage comes easily from behind a white hooded robe. Real courage is facing snarling dogs and cattle-prod thrusting clansmen dressed as cops. Without flinching, without fighting back.

You have to wonder, given the governing paralysis today in Washington, if voting rights legislation would even get through Congress.Read more
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Day 39
Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 2:41 PM
☀️ 18 °C
Altitude: 59 ft
United States Historic New Orleans Library 29.95698, -90.0669729°57’25” N 90°4’1” W
The big easy [New Orleans]
January 31, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
We could almost say, another ferry, another fort. We visited the swamp hangout of the "entrepreneur" (pirate) Jean Lafitte and the 1815 battlefield of his earstwhile buddy, Andrew Jackson.

Lafitte is quite the mythical figure. We don't quite know when or where he was born. Or when or where he died. But in between he was larger than life.

New Orleans truly is one if a kind. A cultural melting pot like no other in America. Strolled around the French quarter with a ferry ride over the mighty Mississippi. Lots of exotic meats here to our vegetarian horror: gater turtle soup, and other helpless seafood. Passed on ding here.Read more
John LovaasAh, New Orleans—-another of those places you are visiting that are on my list in the U.S. Never been there except to pass thru the airport a couple of times coming from and going to Central America. Can you see effects of the Katrina? You should stay fro Mardi Gras! Hope to see more pics.
1/31/18Reply
TravelerDid not see anything obvious from Katrina but then we didn't venture far from the French Quarter. I was here 12 months after Katrina and the affect was astonishing even then.
2/1/18Reply
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Day 40
Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 1:30 PM
☁️ 20 °C
Altitude: 43 ft
United States Unatex 30.48051, -92.5208430°28’50” N 92°31’15” W
Cajun Resilience [Lafayette]
February 1, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
Spent our last day in Louisiana hop scotching west from one Cajun cultural center to another. Three in all. We were vaguely familiar with their story thanks to Longfellow's Evangeline but really had no clue as to how shunned, shunted and dispersed they were. It's amazing they have retained such a distinctive culture. Also learned all we needed to know about crayfish. They are raised as a " second crop" in the rice paddies here.

Our first stop in Texas was Big Thicket National Preserve. Overlapping ecosystems give this patch of Texas supposedly more species of flora and fauna than almost anywhere in the US.Read more
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Day 41
Friday, February 2, 2018 at 2:39 PM
☁️ 14 °C
Altitude: 20 ft
United States Ayres Island 28.1831, -96.8524528°10’59” N 96°51’9” W
Whooping it up [Corpus Christi]
February 2, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C
Took a small boat tour out of Rockport TX to the Aransas National Wildlife Refuge. This is the only place the remaining wild whooping cranes fly to in winter from Buffalo Wood Provincial Park in Alberta (which is way the heck up there). Just an amazing place! Saw not only about 50 cranes with their juvenile young, but spoonbills, Kingfishers, and all sorts of sea birds. Wow! The whooping cranes population was down to 14 pairs in the 70's, now there are 400 or so birds, Better ...but they need more space and protection.Read more
Phil LoPiccoloThanks for sharing!
2/2/18Reply
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Day 42
Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 2:13 PM
⛅ 21 °C
Altitude: 46 ft
United States Las Flores Colonia 26.01667, -97.4789526°1’0” N 97°28’44” W
Manifest white destiny [Brownsville]
February 3, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
The US honed its country eminent domain skills in the first battle of the Mexican-American War at Palo Alto. US troops baited the Mexican Army into crossing the Rio Grande. What's interesting is that notable Army names such as Zachary Taylor and US Grant were dubious about this adventure.

We also visited Padre Island National Seashore, home to the largest stretch of undeveloped barrier islands in the US. The park is perhaps best known for its Kemp-Ridleys nesting grounds. Every turtle egg laid is collected and incubated for later release. This greatly improves the 1000 to 1 odds of a turtle reaching adulthood.Read more
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Day 43
Sunday, February 4, 2018 at 11:29 AM
☀️ 21 °C
Altitude: 587 ft
United States Bergs Mill 29.36088, -98.4795429°21’39” N 98°28’46” W
Mission Mania [San Antonio]
February 4, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
In California the 20 Spanish missions were each spaced one day's ride apart up half the length of the territory. In Texas the Comanche were such a constant threat that they crammed six of them into a day's ride apart end to end. Also notably different is the architecture. There is an obvious Moorish flavor to the San Antonio missions; arched doorways and candy canes striped arches like Cordoba Spanish Mosque. We're saving the Alamo for a later visit when we won't have the trailer to drag through congested city streets.

On to Austin and a visit with Robyn and Doug. And Bruce.Read more
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