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Camino Frances
  • Hiker Holly
Sep – Oct 2024

Camino Frances

We are off again! Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 4, 2024
    Hiker HollyHiker HollyCamino Frances

    Unexpected lay over in Dallas

    September 2, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    Postponed flights. Canceled flight. A trip to Dallas World Aquarium to save sanity. Lovely cocktails and a lite dinner. Early flight! Hopefully all the way to Spain through Boston! 🤞🤞🤞

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    Pamplona from Zubiri

    September 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Last night was wonderful!

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    Puenta de la Reina ( the Queen’s Bridge)

    September 6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    We have arrived in Puente de la Reina. It is said that due to deaths of pilgrims crossing the river a Queen commanded a bridge be built. The river is wide and deep today after incredible rain. I can understand the danger!
    As we walked through the village we came upon a church that somehow pulled us in. The alter was stunning and the wood floors incredible. We have seen stone floors but not age old wood floors that are so well taken care of! The gentleman volunteer or plain clothed priest, notice our appreciation when we noticed the floor squeaking at points under our feet and in his very decent English explained that ( look closely, enlarge the photo) each was a crypt or family tomb. There are pulls in each large rectangular piece of solid wood to access the tomb/ family crypt. He showed us the femurs and lower jaws said to be that of 2 saints held in beautiful glass and wood ‘jars’ locked behind a solid wood door. ( I was impressed as you never see the artifacts, but only are told the religious artifacts are in the church, some where….). This church and the wooden floor sealing crypts, was so special!
    Puente de la Reina is an age old beautiful village. There aren’t the big modern buildings. The streets are cobbled, houses are built solidly with many families in each structure.
    This village to has its ‘Running of the Bulls’ . There are large wooden gates placed strategically to be closed , and I am guessing here, to direct the bulls to their destination.
    The doors on the buildings are all incredible and hundreds of years old.
    I could stay a few days, but apparently the next village is just as beautiful! We will push on!! 😎😎
    **Point of importance, to me anyway, this is Basque Country. The Basque people what we surmise and read, feel they aren’t apart of Spain. That they are an occupied country. You see this sentiment often in Basque Country, as in the Flag flying over the street we walked in this village.    Read more

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    Pamplona Albergue where we were last night
    The Queens Bridge1Puente la Reina Albergue tonightI was given this card at check-in, it means "Tenderness" 🩷

    Pamplona to Puente la Reina

    September 6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Good news first. I finally got a full night sleep. Yesss!! It’s been almost a week of only getting a few hours at a time. When I woke up at 5am and looked at my watch I was so happy to see it wasn’t 12-1am for once. Now the bad news. It was dumping buckets of rain when I woke up. Shit. I looked at the weather app and it said it would stop at 8. The walk today was up Alto Del Pardon (the hill of forgiveness) and down tons of shale rock with tricky switchbacks. I’ve never walked this in the rain, only in blazing heat (remember this part, Sterling?!). I was afraid of it being very slippery and the mud. I was optimistic though that the rain would end, we’d just wait it out and take it slow. However, the more time went on, the rain just kept on. Holly and I talked about it and decided since both of us have a bad knee, we would make a smart choice and taxi to the next town. To hell with getting blisters, twisting an ankle, or worse yet, re-rupturing my knee that feels so good these days. I mean, after all, Louise said God loves me so I didn’t have anything to prove nor did I need the “hill of forgiveness” to repent my sins! 😆🙏🏻. More good news, this rainy weather is over after today. It’s going to be 60’s-70’s for at least the next 10 days. Hallelujah. I’ve never been here with these temps. Best walking weather we could’ve asked for. While I know the decision today was the right one, I don’t feel very bad assy and I’m antsy to get in the groove. I’m not there yet, but now that I’m sleeping, the rain front has moved on, I feel tomorrow will be a great restart.
    We got to Puente la Reina, strolled around the town, walked over the queens bridge, bought some provisions for tomorrow’s walk, and went into a very special church that was actually quite impressive. Under the wide floorboards there were priests and other dignitaries buried. I felt wrong walking over the top of them but they were in the isle, and under the pews, so there was no avoiding them! They even had, encased in the alter, 16th century femurs and mandibles from San Pedro and San Pedro Eliza for who the church is named after. Crazy. The volunteer at the church was happy to see us visit and allowed us up the back staircase to where the very old organ was and a better view/photo of the retablo. We felt special to have the opportunity to go where most didn’t get to go! He stamped our credential with a beautiful stamp and we of course gave the church some coins. We also checked out a few of the restaurants menus here and decided on a place to eat later. The deciding factor for me was seeing Sopa de Ajo (garlic soup). Soup sounded good, I’ve been fighting a cold since Dallas, so I think this is just what my body needs.
    We are checked into our albergue and it’s so lovely and quirky! I’m in a room with 4 ladies, all very nice. Holly is in a room next to me and I can hear her chatting it up with another gal. I love the Camino, and this aspect of albergue’s where we have the opportunity to meet like-minded beautiful souls from all over the world. Such a rich experience already and we are literally just getting started.
    More tomorrow friends, love and miss you 😘    Read more

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    Estella

    September 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    First, I want to step back to last evenings stay. A sweet Alburgue with a contemplative vibe. A great view from an upper deck and great fellow peregrinos/ pilgrims! My room mates were a 70yr+ gentleman from Holland, a fellow from UK,a New Zealander, a gal from the UK, another gal I didn’t meet as she came in late and a gentleman from Asia (?) with pretty fair English. 😊. Several of the folks had been running into each other over the last few days at the same Alburgues/Hostels.
    A quick aside: What I have learned from my h hostel guru (Tammy) is that normally a person wakes, gathers all (back pack, coat, etc., one slips out so as not to disturb those that are sleeping. No lights ( headlamps are helpful).
    My roommates apparently had an unspoken agreement and I didn’t get the memo. 🤣.
    They woke, turned on lights, came in and out of the room. Opened and closed compartments. And Johann from Holland was ‘sweet’ enough to touch my shoulder to let me know it was half past 6. ( I was trying to ignore them all for another 20 minutes) 😅
    I decided to enjoy gathering my gear without leaving the room, the light on, not worrying about the noise level ( it was lovely), The fellow from Asian bent down to my bunk to make certain I was headed to breakfast with everyone.
    It was all unexpected and adorable!
    The next photos are of a wine stop and then one of Tammy and I before a pilgrims dinner at a local restaurant. *Select menu at a great price.
    Note steep forward again to today: 21.9km, I love km, the distances sounds so impressive. 😎
    . It’s warm here, lots of water needed and lots of fresh squeezed orange juice available at the villages! My personal favorite!!
    The sights in the distance of the next break atop the distant hill were a joy today! There were some good hills, some slight long grades of 400+ feet and some steep abrupt ‘Ups’ climbing 400+ft.
    I sound like a I am gasping at the top. 🤣
    We took a quick break at a park in a small newer town a few km from Estella. We shared a picnic table with to gals from New Zealand. With all said and done they had traveled 30 hours to get to the start of the Camino Frances!!
    Meeting people from all over the world while you are walking beautiful country is part of the joy!!
    Feeling tired, waking up a bit stiff. Ask the fun of the first week. Walk it off in the morning! Walk, Eat, Sleep, repeat.
    More photos later of this evening, perhaps 🤔
    It’s 4:30pm for us 7:30am for you, presently.


    Hugs to all
    PS
    The gutters were lined with marble!    Read more

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    On to Torres del Rio - 29+ km

    September 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    This is going to be short as we walked 30km yesterday, We could see Torres Del Rio for hours but couldn’t seem to get closer as we hiked up hills then into valleys., back up hills and so on😉.
    The day we arrived the village was wrapping up a weekend festival. Red and White attire were the ‘all around
    We had dinner at the Albuquerque e we were staying at. When the English gal from a Hostel a few nights ago and whom we have seen off and on over the few day was staying also. So we got a table together for the Pilgrims dinner. When spotted Marcel, Brazilian pilgrim. He joined us also!
    From stories he told and the mention of having an armored car. I don’t think Brazil is on my bucket list🤔.
    Torres Del Rio, as you leave, has a fountain with wine and/or water spouts. It’s requested one doesn’t take an abundance. At 8:10am that wasn’t a problem. 🤣    Read more

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    Santo Domingo de Calzada,Spain

    September 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Hello! We are in Santo Domingo De Calzada.
    Easier day of 20km. We can feel things creaking when we get up after a break for food.🤣. I feel better when the 20-30yr old somethings are limping along or talking about their pains.
    We have been running into folks from days ago and recently met folks! This Camino has me saying, ‘Hello!’ as if I am wondering through the neighborhood store only it’s folks from 5 different counties! Side note: There are, actually many Americans here on this Camino.
    Some folks from many countries, and I am side stepping a bit, are getting a reality check. Walking 20 or 30km is a challenge they are all up to! It’s the reality of walking 20+km daily for weeks that has a few folks changing perspectives. And they are impressed with what they are accomplishing! 😃 When pilgrims get to a town or village with a cafe we descend upon the cafe! Orders of coffee, orange juice, quick food etc and a chance to visit. A moment to check on each other’s journey and any pains. But the longer isn’t long as there are still miles to go. 😎
    I want to share about a gal ( her dad is 91 So that makes her how old?😊) she looks youthful. When she returns home to Germany after this Camino she is immediately starting to plan for an April PCT ( Pacific Crest Trail). trip. 5 months, full pack ( food, tent, sleeping bag, cooking burner, etc), it’s the west coast Mexico to Canada mountain trek. She finds this Camino easy. 💕 Her attitude is amazing!
    Our days are still cool in this wine country. We also see sunflowers by the acres which are impressive even if they are past season.
    We could see this town many hours before arriving. It gives one pause to know that by car at good speed it would take minutes for what takes by foot hours. It’s an interesting perspective.
    The town is lovely and has a Michelin rated restaurant! We may step up our dinner plans!!
    ***The Beehive looking stone structure was a vineyard guardian shelter in the 1800’s. ( shade from the heat, rain shelter, etc)    Read more

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    Najera, Spain

    September 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    We walked another 30km today. Again the breeze and 52 to 73 degrees temperatures couldn’t be better!!! I cannot believe that people (Tammy) walk it in 80-90 degrees! It’s beautiful, but it’s miles and miles of vines, olive trees and cut ‘hay’ fields. In this weather it’s terrific. At 90 degrees? I might melt and quit.
    Again with 30km under our belts this will be short. The first photo is of the area’s ( Logrono) Camino symbol. Later, we came upon Marcelo who is an established landmark in himself! He surely does and has been coming daily’ forever’. I believe he explained to me that he recently has walked to Paris. He said he is loco (crazy) for doing it. There ways was more to the story but my Spanish is awful. 👍. Just trust the story must’ve been good as he spoke for awhile. 😅
    There was a monument, if I can call it that, to an age old pilgrim’s hospital, only the foot print is left.
    The next photo odd of a winery road sign and a wine bottle almost as tall as I am. 😃
    We took a break in Navarre at a cafe that abutted to a church, there is scaffolding and men working high above. To be seated so close to history is amazing! The American fried eggs and bacon halfway through our travels today weren’t so bad either!!!! 😅
    I included photos of the terrain we are walking and a dinner menu/ map of our journey. We are presently in Najera.
    We had dinner across from a British couple we had met and a German gal and a gentleman from Germany at our different tables. So many folks! So many stories of where they are from! The Camino!    Read more

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    Belorado, Spain

    September 12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    20+km Day- Leaving a city in the morning has its challenges. You’ve spent the night and need to get back to the start of the trail/ Camino. Today we followed fellow Peregrinos/pilgrims for a few blocks while checking the App to direct us back to the trail/ Camino. These folks e we’re following had backpacks and luggage and were headed to ship items we realized as it was raining. We did an about face ( hahaha) as we had found ‘the way’. Lesson I learned don’t follow the people with luggage.
    A truism, to me, of the Camino is that magic happens and bodies happen. Not everything is of our choosing but it is all a part of the journey. On the Camino today in between the rain clouds we can upon a gal we had met a few times on the Camino, she was limping and walking very slowly. She was hoping to get to the next town 10km away for a Cortizone shot at the pharmacy. She had tears for a moment, then just said this is her Camino. She planned to take a day of rest before heading out again💖
    Let’s step back to last night. We did go to an amazing dinner: salad, steak, a bottle of wine and dessert €53.00/ each at a Michelin restaurant. We slept all night and woke refreshed.
    Today, we had bouts of rain off and on, mostly on. , Long, long roads, acres and acres of sunflowers.    Read more

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    Atapuerca, Spain

    September 13, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Our 30km walk today included many wardrobe changes. A quick aside, first- we started out in 41 degrees. This is the same Camino that is usually in the middle to high. 70’s in the morning with blistering heat by midday. We have rain gear to put which we needed almost immediately. Then the rain stopped, we had hills to climb, we headed up and the rain gear needed came off. An hour later all rain gear went back on. And so the day repeated from our 8am start to our 4:30pm arrival.
    We are certain to take breaks to rest and refuel our bodies. If one doesn’t, your body will make its complaints known, loudly! We have seen many, even young pilgrims with many issues: ankles, shins, hips etc. . We have been so fortunate. I have to admit I have a small blister on my baby toe because I was sloppy when I tied my right shoe. So my foot slipped forward on the down hills. All straightened out, now. I made myself stand in the corner for 10 minutes until I had learned my lesson. 😅. And Tammy can upon a miracle bandaid/plaster that she knew I needed and picked it up for me. 💚
    We are continuing to walk through acres of Sunflowers. We came upon an area where the Sunflowers had been turned into smiley faces, hearts and I LUV U s. 😊 We also had about 9 miles through a wonderful forest, something we hadn’t been through on this Camino.
    Several of the folks we have run into since the beginning stopped for the day in the village before. We powered on to Atapuerca so going into Burgos will be an easier 20km day.
    Sitting in the Alburgue, now, where we will have a communal dinner: vegetable soup, lemon chicken over rice, and a custard ( they offered to sauté apples for me. 👍). The voices around are speaking German, French, Spanish, and English.
    It’s very cool here this evening. Unfortunately, my leggings, jacket and long sleeved shirt REALLY needed a good washing. I am sitting in shorts and a T-shirt with a blanket over my legs and my ‘sleep sack’ on my shoulders as a shawl. I am quite the sight. 😃
    I will be buying more leggings and a base layer in Burgos at a sports store!!
    It’s 6:14pm. Dinner is at 7pm. I will have a glass of wine, €2, while we wait. I can’t wait to eat so I can go to bed. 🤣. Up again at 6:30am. Breakfast then out the door by 8am. 👍
    You are in our thoughts!!
    8:20pm addendum: Just finished dinner with 14-ish folks. From Germany, a gal who was from Slovenia to Germany to Spain, a Spanish couple and ‘mom’ , Americans who also lived in Australia, Americans from Washington ( guess who) and another Slovenian. Amazing 5 course dinner, simple and simply amazing. I am so satisfied.
    Tomorrow and Burgos will come soon. 👍    Read more

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    Burgos,Spain

    September 14, 2024 in Spain

    Before we left our Albuquerque in Atapuerca for the 22km walk to Burgos I want to show you one of the gathering/reading spaces and the communal dining room.
    The day started at 31 degrees! Brrrrrr! We had many layers on at the beginning ( rain gear to hold in the heat, I put on socks as mittens (it worked quite well!). The walking and immediate hill warned us up thank heavens. Arriving in Burgos, at the Cathedral in 70+degrees we were surrounded by so many Saturday families , tourists and 2 large groups for weddings that after noon. There is a photo of regionally dressed folk dancers dancing around the bride and groom. They twirled, the skirts swans out and back in with reverse turns, hands high in the air!
    We were watching from a small balcony over looking the cathedral plaza. Amazing find by Miss Tammy ( applause here 👏). After we freshened up and headed for food we came upon a funeral. 2 weddings and a funeral!! Busy plaza and Cathedral!
    Step back a bit to entering Burgos. There is a well known industrial walk/Camino route into the city that is ugly! Our proprietress in Atapuerca alerted all of us to a beautiful but not well marked river walk into the city and Tammy had taken it before. I am SO glad she had! To get to the start at a grassy futball/soccer field one walks through a dirt parking lot that is also edged by cars on the perimeter. Between 2 car we found the trail that led to the dirt path. There were many Ys in the path before arriving at the paved City path ( think Burke-Gilman Trail in Seattle or the paved bike route in Coeur d Alene). We were tired as it was late in the day for us. A sweet older man walking in the other direction saw us almost take a wrong turn cashed to us ( Spanish) indicated the way, insisted on accompanying us for a few km set k us on our way then turned to return to his daily (?) walk.
    I will close with the image of us sitting on the plaza having wine, running into 2 other pilgrims who joined us. Chatting laughing in the sun. OFF our feet and looking forward to a good meal.
    Hugs to all!! You are in our thoughts!!    Read more

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    Hontanas,Spain

    September 15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    We are in Hontanas and happy to be here. Our room has 2 queen beds!! Again, I am in heaven!!
    Tammy is the BEST! She booked all of this months in advance. Each time I thought of offering she had what booked!! With my lack of knowledge, it’s a godsend at the end of each day!!
    We are now in an area called the Meseta. It’s walking to Spokane including the few big hills, many rolling hills and never ending wheat fields.
    Entering Hontanas is amazing, in that one is one a never ending dirt and gravel road that goes forever into the distance, and the even though the books warn you, there what feels like is a slight depression in the land scape and there is Hontanas!!
    I had to take parting photos of the Burgos Cathedral! Such a breath taking sight!! I zoomed in on the Saints and bishops very high up on the cathedral. To see them from ground level, I imagine they must be 12+feet tall.
    A gentleman from Connecticut, caught up with us a few times. LOVE his accent. He was a geography teacher for 49(?) years. Bill is walking The Way/El Camino solo. The enter way when he caught up ( wardrobe changes or breaks) he mentioned his concern about not having a place to stay tonight. BUT, he knew of a place Santa Brigida, where he felt confident he would find a room. We ahead had a room here. Other pilgrims who had tried to book were unable, as sites said it was full.
    He was able to book as were a few other pilgrims we have met!! 🥰. We will be having a communal dinner at 7pm. 3 course and wine for €15. Loving this!!
    Hugs to all!!    Read more

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    Casterojeriz,Spain

    September 16, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    With a monte ( mountain or ‘quite the climb’) to cross tomorrow we took a short day today. 11+km. Several others that we have met have had the same idea.
    We have taken the time to walk the village slowly and absorb the feel. Usually we are tired, hungry and need to shower. . It’s a lovely change and good for our bodies. 👍
    As we left this morning, we came upon signage showing how far we have gone/come on our 800km journey. What a boost to our determination!
    San Anton is a ruin of a 14th century convent set up to care for pilgrims. St. Anton’s Fire, a disease in the medieval era was apparently rampant. The order ceased to exist in the late 1700’s.
    The local church is amazing! The artifacts beautiful. There are stone statues (?) of husbands with wife’s depicted in the ‘lids’ covering the tombs. I am certain there is a term that I am missing.,😉
    The entire church was beautiful and I felt ‘filled’ somehow with the beauty and the religious content. Some days one just needs a lift that you didn’t know you were going to need.    Read more

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    Boadilla del Camino

    September 17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    We woke at 6am in Castrojeriz to leave by 7am after breakfast to walk 2km+, to get to the point we started a climb up 1050 meters to catch the sunrise before 8am. Stunning!!!
    We later came upon, not a ruin so much, as an old church. This church was so many things. There was a coffee pot outside with cups ( donate if you can) . You could get a ‘Stamp’, those ‘prove’ where you have walked. ( I will up load some photos of the stamps at the end) and bathrooms!! 😃
    The small inside was simple and amazing. A carving and a sculpture, simple and beautiful! Surrounded by leaded glass windows.
    Today was only a 5-6 hour walk along ‘The Way/ Camino. We are happy to have arrived at the end of another cold crisp day! The wind has come up. It’s blowing outside. ( Again, I’d like to mention it’s usually in the high 80’s and nineties. We are walking in 65-68 degrees with a breeze! It’s fall weather here!
    A bit of a highlight. As we walked we watched a drone spreading fertilizer or pesticides over a field, inches over the crop. Efficient, fast and so high tech!
    Jumping back to a great communal dinner at the Alburgue we stayed at, at our table of ten we sat across from a 40+ yr old dad and 14 yr old son who were walking from Burgos home to an area in Galacia. A week or two of walking together, a promise and trip Papa had made to himself 20yrs ago and invited his son. The son’s English was very good. The father’s was about as good as my Spanish. It made me wish again more Americans were fluent in other languages. I personally wold love it. 😊.
    We continue to cross paths with people we have met along the Camino, for example: Anna, from Denmark, Jamie ,from the UK, Bill the retired teacher from Connecticut, Caroline from Canada, Sonny(?) from Hawaii, and so many others!
    We are almost half way!!!! We still like each other and the weather is perfect! 🥰    Read more

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    Carrion de los Condes

    September 17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 68 °F

    Last night we had another communal dinner at the Hostel we stayed at. Puréed vegetable soup, roasted chicken, salad, bread wine and ice cream for dessert. Lovely! We saw people we had met and chatted with two fellows who are hiking and climbing buddies. One from Canada and one from California. Now they are on the Camino Frances. Funny, Family guys who met at, I believe, Everest Base Camp and have been friends since with many climbs together.
    We left Boadillo Del Camino in the dark after a very European breakfast. Hot coffee and a pastry. I found an almond cake ( Torre de Santiago made by the proprietor’s mom) and tea for me. Not enough, but a start. 👍
    We traveled with a full or almost full moon to light our way West with a sunrise coming up behind us in the East. We walked along a canal wide enough for what seemed to be a tour or taxi boat.
    I don’t have many photos today as we walked again by miles of cut wheat fields and sunflowers ( looking past their prime) with 2 short breaks. We walked for 6 hours +\-.
    It was flat ,gravel and long. There was a breeze, thank heaven! I can’t imagine walking this in 80-90 degrees where water is always an issue, with the sun is beating down. That is what my friends Tammy and Natalie have done! I am so very grateful that the temperatures have gone above the low 70’s. Such perfect weather!!
    Having days that this is a slog. It’s contemplative, determination building and long…did I say long?? It’s the Meseta. If it doesn’t break you, it will build you. 🤞 🤞
    About mid day we came on upon a group of women on the trail gathered around their friend (?) who had somehow fallen on her face on this forever flat terrain. Her chin was scraped and the bridge of her nose cut. There were no trip hazards. She was maybe 35-38 years old. Other than an athletic knee brace on her knee I can’t put together what could’ve caused her fall. 😢
    My heart went out to her.
    We are half way. Today I had many body parts complaining. We are resting and blogging.
    As an aside and referencing the photos, as we came into our first break we could see the Cathedral in the distance. And now we are where we will spend the night. There is a recommended restaurant. We will head there at 7pm.
    Acck! To wait when hungry…..    Read more

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    Terradillos de los Templarios

    September 18, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    I want to step back mentally to last evening in Carrión and finish the evening. We visited the local church before dinner. Past a favorite door. Popped into a sports store fearing we will need warmer bases layers for potential colder weather in a few weeks. . ( Today in the sun I can’t locate my sun hat!!!). ***Wish I had another sports store I could pop into! When I shed a long sleeve shirt I popped it on my head. Quite the forward fashion statement!
    Back to last night: The dinner we had last night was a bit of heaven! We were directed to a well know gem of a restaurant .The salad was amazing as a starter then the second was a lovely steak with more greens. Lots of bread on the table of course! I knew I couldn’t possibly eat it all, right!?…,, Amazingly after approximately 25km there wasn’t a morsel left. Again even with wine, it was less than going to Red Robin/hamburger’s. Hahaha
    We headed out later this early morning than desired for our longer day today.
    . The promised cafe open at 6am, wasn’t. We weren’t going to have a break ( cafe or shaded spot for 17+km). We couldn’t start out on l empty stomachs.
    Yes, amazing my stomach was empty this morning. We did find breakfast ( fried eggs with Jamon /Spanish ham -delish) and headed out. Unfortunately, no milk alternatives so no Cola-cao ( hot chocolate) for me..🥲
    Another fantastic sunrise miles. We had hours ahead with nothing but cut wheat on a dirt and gravel road. You know the stuff dreams are made of, right!? 😅 No break for 17km. Focus and go!
    I must be serious for a moment. The focus to push forward, to override aches, to focus on what I refer to as Bio-feedback to help a tight muscle relax, to’ talk’ a shin out of becoming a Shin-splint issue, takes focus. At least that’s my journey on the Meseta. Maybe I am fooling myself, but it’s’ working for me’ 😅.
    It doesn’t matter whether the pilgrims on this trail are 20 to 84yrs. We’ve heard of Shin-splints, blisters, ankle issues, hip issues, etc., etc. . This Camino feels less technically difficult then last year, but mentally and in a different way very tough on the body. It doesn’t matter the age group.
    Back to this morning!!! Sorry! I digressed. A wonderful sunrise! Lots of miles ahead. No hour for a break, water out a sit down other then asking the road.
    Then 8+km out there is an Oasis! 😎. I have no idea how they had power. They had huge water tanks ( no bathrooms). Who cares!!! There was fresh squeezed OJ, food, pastries, coffee, lattes, tea. They’d thrown Astro turf down, bamboo walls, chairs, tables, etc. All along side a road in the middle of wheat fields. Loved it!!
    The remainder of the 17km until we arrived at a village to take a break again was a a highlight. Fresh squeezed orange juice ( Zumo de Najaranje), or most anything else one would expect ( sandwiches, paella, pastries) all ready to grab.
    This is an important note: Not getting too comfortable, don’t over stay, it’s important to leave before your body thinks you’re done for the day. A half hour might be too long…😃. The first 3 steps let you know your body wants to stay put. 😅
    We did travel a shady lane that was welcomed!! The temperatures hit 74 degrees today! At home I draw a line at a high of 72 degrees as I claim I melt. 🤔 The satisfaction at the end of each day of crushing it is so rewarding!!
    We arrived at our Alburgue a few hours ago. Showered, laundry is going ( the gal here is doing our laundry ( both of us), wash and dry for €10, I am sitting at a table on a lovely lawn/ like your own back yard. Yes!!
    The people on the patio are chatting: Germany, Australian, French, Spanish, Chile, etc. So many countries and languages! Love it!!
    OH, special treat, dinner here is as early as 6pm not 7pm!! So excited to not have to wait! 🤣
    Hugs to all!!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyHiker HollyCamino Frances
    1

    Bercianos del Real Camino

    September 20, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Two more days and we are in Leon! We crossed the midway/halfway point today (I was in error the other day. I thought 400km on a 800km walk was halfway….. this is over 800km🤔. That’s what one gets for not reading the brochure.🤣
    We did cross the geographical halfway point today. It is marked by what might be a Pilgrim on one side of the path and a knight on the other (a knight Templar?).
    The arch into town where we had a break was stunning! We also, on our journey, came across a mural depicting the movie ‘The Way’ starring, Martin Sheen. This movie impacted the American public awareness of El Camino/ The Way. Check it out of you haven’t.
    We are all checked into our Hostel, laundry is in the wash. Wine on the table. The Brit’s at the next table think this is better than home. Where else do get to have wine while doing soiled clothes.
    As we are halfway, with another long day a head, we are really looking forward to a shorter day into Leon, the day after tomorrow. At 23-24km every thing starts to hurt. Arches of feet, and I will be graphic, groin muscles start moaning, and ‘buns of steel’ become crying babies! Once you see the village or town all body parts scream YES!! But, my dears, you still have 45 minutes to an hour…or more to get to town. Then, and this is the ‘best’ part, 😉then you get to walk through the village to the Alburgue or Hostel, some days!! This adds more KMs to the day. What a joy! 🤣
    Love to all    Read more

  • Hiker HollyHiker HollyCamino Frances

    Mansilla de los Mulas

    September 21, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Beautiful sun rise! ONWARD!!
    Last night we spent in a Alburgue Ina room with 24 people in bunks. Really nice bunks, curtains, lights, an outlet, cozy…..
    I ended up with a top bunk. I had to laugh after setting up my bunk I headed down to get a shower I laughed when trying to recall….. Just how does one back out from a top bunk and crawl down the ladder backwards. Where is a 3yr old when you need them!!! It didn’t come back as a natural move. At least not after walking the miles we walked. 😂😂😂
    We ran into several familiar faces when we took breaks long the Camino. Small villages with coffee, sandwiches, fruit etc. Sit down, back pack off, rest the feet and body for 15-20 minutes. Check in with the others we have met and continue to run into.
    How’s everyone holding up? How far are you traveling today? Laughter about all the body parts that hurt.
    Then on again for miles until the timing or the place brings a needed break. Then back up stuff for the first few paces, things loosen up and it’s onward. Checking to see when we will arrive!
    We are in town. We walked to the Lavadoria ( laundry). Clothes are washing. Then the dryer. Then DINNER!! 🎉🎉. It’s almost 6pm here.
    León tomorrow!!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyHiker HollyCamino Frances

    Leon

    September 22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    This morning as we left we had what felt like a marine fog. Beautiful, but cold!!
    We finished the Meseta when we entered Leon.
    I love seeing Storks nest!! Just on the outskirts of this amazing city an old chapel bell tower (?) held 3 nests. Love it!
    As we entered Leon heading to the Cathedral, as the Camino will always leased on to the main church or cathedral in each town or village, hundreds of bicyclists traveled to the cathedral all do! Whether is was a special day or a charity event, I don’t know but the excitement in the air was a thrill!
    After a wonderful lunch, shower and seeing the city we headed to the Pilgrims Mass in the Basilica.
    Side note:: a cathedral is where a bishop is ‘seated’. A Basilica is ‘named’ by a pope due to artifacts or historical/religious importance. The photos don’t do it justice!. When lit for Mass it was stunning.
    During Mass which was all in Spanish, while looking at the amazing architecture and beauty created I slipped into my own head. When the ‘ushers’ came around with the baskets for any donations, I was flooded suddenly with imagines of my dad.
    My dad was a wonderful, funny man. One of many things he was was an user at our Catholic Church. He knew everyone. He could chide the priest for too long sermons. Dad would shake the donation basket at his friends (during mass no less) to tease them as if they should give more. He could squeeze 3 more people into any pew and have folks smiling and chucking over some quip as he added one more. Such sweet, wonderful moments I could count on.
    I couldn’t stop my quiet tears as one memory then another rolled over me. Why now? The Camino?
    We headed out of Leon today. Only weeks left and it already is feeling as if it’s going too fast. I want to head home but this rhythm and what one can accomplish is full filling.
    Love to all.    Read more

  • Hiker HollyHiker HollyCamino Frances

    Hospital de Orbrigo

    September 23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    There weren’t many photos unless one wanted more cut wheat or very tall corn. 😉. For tonight we are in a rustic, eclectic alburgue in private room, which is 2 twin beds, our own bath and shower. Nothing special, but it feels like a dream when we can!! In the same Alburgue there are 8 people to the room and a shared shower and toilet based on gender.
    A quick step back to last nights in Leon we asked a couple to take our photo, the idea being the photo places us at the center point, the CATHEDRAL. That didn’t work out so well. It was beautiful lighting and the Cathedral is wonderful at night. You’ll have to trust me. 😉 We did end up eating a 3rd meal fit the day after the 7pm mass as we found a place with beautiful STEAK, not the thin slices the Pilgrim meals usually provide, tasty as they are….. But thick and juicy wins for me.
    And back to the mention of cut wheat fields and corn…. you will note I am once again in error e are not at the end of the Meseta. You are surprised I was wrong you say? Hahaha.
    Astorga, is the end. Astorga which is tomorrow’s destination is the end of the Meseta.
    This Camino has 3 ‘parts’ to it. The first section is the Body where ‘ the body is challenged’, the second section is the Meseta ‘ where your mind is opened’, it is said). The section we will start after Astorga is where we cross the mountains of León and Galacia, moving from Astorga into Santiago is ‘where your soul is lifted’.
    Time for a good sleep in this charming and eclectic Alburgue.    Read more

  • Hiker HollyHiker HollyCamino Frances

    Astorga

    September 24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    We have arrived in Astorga, Spain. ‘The Way’ to get here has more trees, hills, dairy cows and interesting Camino ‘art’ as we walked.
    We did have several wardrobe changes. Jacket with hood, leggings and gloves to start, down to a long sleeved shirt, then we stopped to gear up for rain at a cute Oasis of an unexpected place to break. Shade trees, kittens running after each other. Later out on a huge table was fresh fruit, nuts and some simple baked goods. Skiing with water, squeeze your own juice etc. Great choices!
    We put on our rain gear ( mine is a very trendy trash bag look) and headed out. Only to start stripping off the rain gear as soon as the rain abated. Keeping it handy just in case. The forecast was for more.
    Just at the crest of a hill we came on a cross and in the distance Astorga! Astorga has incredible architecture and art . The Gaudi Palace is stunning! You will miss much of you don’t enlarge on the buildings and arches.
    We had an amazing salad with great wine for a lunch and strolled a bit about town. Dinner we are told isn’t until 8pm here, so good thing we ate lunch. Of course after walking it’s not really a choice s much as a necessity.
    Our day tomorrow is a 24km walk and I like my sleep, am 8pm dinner isn’t kind!!! Daily we are up at 6:30am, breakfast by 7am-ish and on the road.
    Side note: just before checking in we ran into a lovely Australian pilgrim couple we hadn’t seen in days. Checking in we turned to see Martin from Holland who told us all about his wife, the family business and many fun stories just last evening! Last evening while laundry was hanging over our heads drying we also visited with Ian ( originally from UK, then Australia, then Canada then back to Australia). According to Ian his parents were trying to decide on the right weather and temperature as he puts it.
    He and a buddy were off to meet up with Ian’s wife today in Astorga. In this much bigger city, who knows but we may see them today or Sophie, the 22yr old Danish maybe soon to be nursing student. We have met then seen her at several of the places we have stayed.
    With several places in each village or surrounding villages it’s a lovely surprise to come across a pilgrim again that you have chatted with or had wine with at a previous Alburgue while waiting for laundry. Or supper.
    Astorga is quite large. So to have run into several already is really fun. It’s 7pm here to your 10am
    Hugs to all    Read more

  • Hiker HollyHiker HollyCamino Frances

    Rabanal

    September 25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Not many photos!
    Off and on rain SO, several wardrobe changes, again. Cold in the morning to start. Then we warmed up. Rain, then geared up. The rain stopped then the FLIES swarmed.
    Across the road there were perfectly happy cattle no flies on them. All the flies in the our side of the road were swarming the pilgrims! 10 flies were constantly trying to land on my face, ears, neck, hands, legs. Gad!!!! 6 to 8 km ( And I kid you not) of this was trying at best!
    Tammy cashed it, we are getting different consuming to ensure we were in a fly free ZONE.
    That was another calamity. By the time we found a room we had 20 minutes to turn in our laundry. We still had to get there it was 300m away. We had to change out of all clothing throw it into our ‘Camino’ laundry bag and without a shower run it down to the gal who was within a 20 minutes going to cease taking laundry.
    We blasted the 300m( no small distance when tired). Then a cooler was needed. This was me, in need of a shower with some clean clothes on ( no bra, but a jacket), dashing down the flights of stairs. I am greeted by a pilgrim, who I don’t know, but he greeted me with a traditional“Buen Camino” which requires a response, he shook my hand which he kept and pirouette’d me around as zi kept moving. 😅. I made it to with our laundry with minutes to spare! 😂. Then headed up to take a turn in the shower. Whew! We were pretty proud!! 😅
    Back to the cows, this is dairy country. Every other area we traveled through I could ask for oat milk, almond or soy. Here, there is no milk but cow milk! 😉. Sad for me ( not warm me up hot chocolate, the milk alternative also fills me up as zI can’t do breads or cheese, etc. ). But I love the attitude!!
    Just before we entered there was a camping area called Indian Campo, There were Teepees. 😉
    . We ran into the Aussie, Ian, and his buddy. Ian is the guy born in the UK whose parents moved to Australia, then to Canadia, then back to Australia to find the temperature they liked, he chides . We met his French wife who has rejoined him after dashing back to Singapore for a 25th bday with their daughter. People do these things (?)
    We had a break filled with fun, high laughter.at a . well known Cowboy’bar’ ( recall that means food/ coffee/ drinks all day) .
    And bonus! Our last minute Alburgue is really cute! Enlarge the photo of the flooring. Each rock was hand placed. Who does that kind of work anymore? Side note: as you look at the first photo of the building in which you would never guess that inside (most of these) is a court yard.
    Open to the air, here they often hang the bed sheets, Pilgrims may hang their laundry. Sorry send and visit.
    Ooh, an extra side ! We walked 300m to the ‘main’ building further back in town for an actual 5pm dinner. Nope, I chide you not!! We didn’t need to wait until 7pm or as in Astorga, last night, 8:30pm. Fantastic!
    AND our laundry which we could pick up at 7pm, arrived at 6pm at our table! Better than dinner and a show!!!
    I recommend taking a look at our bedroom door! Mind you our bathroom is great, the room is not huge. It’s also not from the Middle Ages. But come on! When was that door first built?? 1600’s? It’s almost my favorite part of the stay!
    Tomorrow we start crossing the mountains. Probably in rain! ☔️
    Hugs to all    Read more

  • Hiker HollyHiker HollyCamino Frances
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    Ponferrado

    September 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    After a full night of pounding rain, wind, lightening that was to and did continued all day. We chose LIFE. Haha. The mountain trail has rocks, mud and roots and that’s on a good day! We chose to keep our knees, not end up in the hospital or worse!
    As we had some’ down time’ after our regularly planned early 7am breakfast, we planned. We heard 2 helicopters take off in the torrential storm. Rescue is all we could think. 😞💕
    After giving up a potential trip to the hospital on a torrential rainy day with high wind’s and lightening. We arranged for a cab to take us to the next town. Only we risked our lives with a very experienced Spanish Taxi driver.
    OMG! With most pilgrims traveling by taxi today, this guy was a bullet!! Not enough drivers and high demand. He was on What’sapp on the curves. He did pull over for a call. Only to explain the call would’ve dropped if he hadn’t. 🤔. When he finally passed a non-Spaniard on a curve, Tammy and I had to grab each others hands!!! Hahaha. The Camino provides is a saying. In this case it was apparently to get our heat rate up for the day.
    We arrived safely at our town, Pongerrada, which I will go into in a moment. We have great lunch, incredible ceviche and asked for wine. A bottle arrives! I love this town. 😅. Really a great meal on the plaza mayor (main plaza)
    After, we checked in, I walked into our bathroom and teased that ‘ We need another room! This one is all marble AGAIN!! We shouldn’t have to put up with marble again!! Hehehe.
    Apparently , it’s that inexpensive here! The floors and walls are marble. We payed about €25 each for our 2 twin beds and bathroom. Can you believe it!? I am blown away!! Those more traveled would probably not be impressed. I am still impressed.,😉
    As for Ponferrada, we are staying in the old part of town. I have no interest in the new buildings. And thank heaven, Tammy, who took it upon herself to book it all ( thank you sleepless nights), feels the same about history and beauty! Thank you, Camino sister!!
    In Ponferrada there is a Templar Castle ( 12th to 13th century). It is several blocks to get all the way around! I could hardly stop taking photos!! There are so many beautiful buildings.
    Ponferrada , at one point it is said to be one of the most important Roman settlements due to location. The original bridge ( which no longer exists) but which the town is named after was built in 1082. The area just fills me!!    Read more

  • Hiker HollyHiker HollyCamino Frances

    Villafranca del Bierzo, Spain

    September 27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    I hate to be redundant, but again,,, rain gear on, rain gear off, sun, rain and wind, then sun, rain, just clouds. Geez! We were constantly changing what we had on.
    Many km and some steep climbing up and over. This is just the beginning. Tomorrow, there is a lot more ‘up’. I might be whining tomorrow. 😉
    After eating at 8:30pm last night and getting to bed after 10:30pm to wake at 6:30am to walk 24km+ wasn’t what we wanted to repeat. We were determined to eat before everything closed at 3pm or 5pm until dinner at 8 or 8:30pm. However, lucky us, we are in a town that has several restaurants/bars that stay open with no the siesta hours!. It’s 7pm and we have eaten dinner and walked around the town a bit. 👍😃.
    Lovely town! This is going to be this short, I need to call Ron.
    Hugs to all    Read more

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