• Cinque Terre, Italy

    4. april 2025, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    I had all but given up on seeing this area of Italy. I just wasn't finding decent lodging on short notice. Most people book months in advance to stay in one of the five villages that make up Cinque Terre. So we gave up on it. That is, until I realized we could do it on a long day trip from Genoa.

    It took 2 1/2 hours each way of travel time, but it was worth it. We arrived at 9:00 or so in Monterosso, the first of "5 lands ". From there, we hiked southeast along the Ligurian coast. This region is known as Liguria and this part of the Mediterranean is the Ligurian Sea.

    We had lots of sun and the trails weren't crowded in early April and this early in the morning. It wasn't long until it came upon the stunning views of Vernazza. Once in town we ate our packed lunch. It's kind of hard to find gluten-free options so we knew this would be easier and faster.

    The next segment to Corniglia was a bit harder, but so rewarding. We were hoping to take a ferry back so we took a train to Manarola to catch the ferry. But their port was not in service so we couldn't take the ferry. Drag.

    Manarola was was so full of tour groups, construction, and fishing boats parked in the streets that we couldn't wait to leave. From land, it's the least attractive of the villages we saw. From the water it looks much better apparently. That was enough hiking for us. The trail between the next villages is closed because of landslides and we didn't feel like doing the last stretch.

    We caught a train home from Manarola and made it back to our comfortable apartment and ate at home that night. After almost 12 miles of up and down hiking we were too tired to go out.

    This trip is on a lot of people's bucket list. It is pretty beautiful. I wouldn't recommend going May through September. We met an American guy on the trail who was here last September and he said it was unbearably crowded on the trails. The trails are generally narrow, so going early in the morning and in shoulder or in the off season is your best bet.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/8XJxtPhNUMsHnEAcA
    Læs mere

  • Genova (Genoa), Italy

    3.–7. apr. 2025, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Genoa has to be the most underrated city in Italy. It's the last Italian city we're visiting on this trip before we head to France. Deanne found a large two-bedroom apartment in the heart of the old city. It's full of antiques and we just love the space. Oh, and our landlord is an Opera singer.

    The old city? Wow. Give me this city over Rome, Venice or Florence any day. That's probably because I've been to those cities and because they're so crowded, especially with tourists. I know I'm part of the problem, but we prefer lesser visited cities at this point in life.

    Genoa is very "lived in" by locals still. There are tourists here and even large ferries and cruise ships dock here but it's a totally different vibe since they tend to stay near the waterfront.

    In the center there's a six story height limit and these buildings are a century or two old. Most of the streets in the center are pedestrian only and are winding and zigzagging, which makes for a canyon- like experience. There are so many interesting shops that line them: butchers, bakers, gellaterias, jewelry, clothing, local wine stores with vats, artists workshops, etc.

    The food? Fantastic and not too expensive. Pesto was invented here, so it's always an option. Too bad I can't eat the abundant focaccia. But they do offer a chickpea flour flatbread called Farinata. Italian emigrants must have brought that to Argentina since it's common there also. Seafood is plentiful. The food here at the many trattorias and osterias was a major highlight.

    Genoa is home to Christopher Columbus and a rich sailing heritage. We bought a 2-day museum pass and saw the amazing Naval Museum, along with several art museums that were in former palaces called palazzos. Genova was a major city in the Kingdom of Savoy back in the day when they competed with Venice for trade dominance in the Mediterranean. In the Royal Palace we walked through a hall of mirrors that rivaled Versailles.

    A visit to the humongous cemetery is a must see. I think it's the largest one in Europe. I was never big on cemeteries until visiting Europe. In a cemetery like this you'll see some of the best statues you'll ever see in any museum.

    We had 4 wonderful days and nights exploring this amazing city. I want to stay longer, but France is calling. I will definitely be back.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/kmAe3TddAuCN5pka8

    The Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/nHPMYJF5uhQc5DYF9
    Læs mere

  • Lake Como Region, Italy

    1.–3. apr. 2025, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    I was positive it was going to be cold in the north and thought we would just hang out in southern Italy. But it's actually been overcast and colder in the south. Deanne convinced me to come up here to Lake Como, north of Milan. What a great decision.

    The lake is absolutely beautiful. We parked ourselves in Varenna on the eastern shore and bought all day ferry passes for 15 Euros each. That allows you to jump on and off any of the multiple ferries. They go about every half hour or hour between villages.

    We visited about 5 of them in total: Maggiore, Tremezze, Lenno, and Bellagio. Two nights and one day was enough but it was just the bolt of lake and sunshine we needed.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/XAfiVsaP3pJR1qVd6
    Læs mere

  • San Marino

    31. marts 2025, San Marino ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    San Marino is so close to Rimini, we couldn't pass up going to another country. That's 78 for me.

    It's one of those European tiny mountain countries that for some reason is still independent. It's on a mountain top and had the requisite castle and tax free status. That brings tourists in.

    It was a sunny day and perfect for walking and climbing steps to get to the old town from the parking lot. We didn't plan on buying anything, but leather goods were cheaper and with no tax, Deanne couldn't pass up on a leather purse and I splurged on a leather jacket.

    Sadly, I lost my wedding ring last week and I'm not sure how. So we decided we'd buy another one that jumped out at us. Sure enough, I saw one I liked at a different shop in San Marino. What a day.

    John and Tara are super fun to travel with and we have a lot in common. Tara even went to Eastern Illinois University at the same time I was there! John is a musician and we listen to a lot of the same music. We've got friends for life now.

    After lunch, we drove to a nearby castle town called Gradara for another walk and photos. It was a perfect travel day that we ended with wine in a piazza cafe and a restaurant with gluten free pizza.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/PzJR2jSvsRwuCuhp9
    Læs mere

  • Rimini, Italy

    30. mar.–1. apr. 2025, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    My sister Julie introduced us to friends Tara and John online before we started our trip. They're Chicagoans who retired to a small village in Italy. We agreed to meet up in the coastal city of Rimini for a couple of days.

    It wasn't hard to make fast friends with them since they are like-minded souls. We had a blast exploring the beach and multiple piazzas together.

    Rimini is a popular vacation spot for Italians in the summer. But this time of year, it's a mid size city with nice plazas, plenty of restaurants, and a nice vibes.

    People were out in droves on Sunday. The weather was great. There was a huge flea market in the center. It's a very walkable city. I absolutely loved it. There were no tourists in sight except us, and that's rare in Italy for a city this size.

    Tomorrow, we're off to Lake Como for a few days, because why not?

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZauXXbGHexxHHdyaA
    Læs mere

  • Lucca, Italy

    28. marts 2025, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Lucca is another wonderful Tuscan town. Once the sworn enemy of ancient Firenze, it's now a chill town whose ancient protective walls are a park you can walk on and circle the old city.

    Meandering through the city reminded me of the first time I went to Firenza 25 years ago in January. There were hardly any tourists, locals still lived in the center, and you could really get a feel for the century-old traditions. I loved it.

    We had no agenda and just walked around and enjoyed the city. Also, we found an amazing pasta restaurant that even made homemade gluten-free pasta. After a few hours we took a train back to Firenza that took only an hour and a half.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/EZ32S6WBmfpG8J3t5
    Læs mere

  • Pisa, Italy

    28. marts 2025, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    We visited Pisa and Lucca on a day trip from Florence (Firenze). Pisa is a nice university town in its own right. We had a pleasant walk from the station to the tower and "The Field of Miracles" where all the good stuff is. School groups were out en masse but the crowds were manageable. We could see all the sights including a museum in a few hours.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/uGWyps2eaPP5wnN6A
    Læs mere

  • Firenze (Florence), Italy

    26.–30. mar. 2025, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Florence, or Firenza as it's known locally is wonderful anytime of year. This is my third time here so I didn't feel the need to hit all the major museum sites. I've done those in the past. So we spent a lot of time just walking around and hanging out with our friends. Dan and Lisa. They're old friends from Madison who moved to Athens, Georgia and are here for a couple months.

    We had several amazing meals as you can expect, including the Florentine steak, the local specialty. It's always served rare and it's good thing that we like that.

    We did see a few museums though. Deanne has never seen the real Statue of David at the Academia, so she went there. And we both enjoyed the Galileo Museum. It has hundreds of antique scientific instruments.

    And we went to a medieval Palazzo that has original furniture and antiques. It was was very interesting to see how rich Florentines lived back in the day. But mostly we enjoyed walking around the Duomo (the domed cathedral) and the old piazzas.

    Saturday, Dan, Lisa and Deanne and I walked across the Arno River to see the sights on that side of the river. Walking back at night was fun. There were buskers our playing New Orleans jazz and classical music. After 4 nights here, we're heading over to the Adriatic coast to meet some new friends my sister introduced us to online. John and Tara moved from Chicagoland to Italy and we're meeting up in Rimini.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/1Ue27ccV31bYXicV8
    Læs mere

  • Lecce, Italy

    23.–26. mar. 2025, Italien ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    Lecce is a real treat. It's not over-touristed but has a medieval old town full of Baroque treasures. The local stone is a soft honey colored limestone that was used to build the old town. It's been called the Florence of the south.

    We wanted a place to just chill out for a few days before we head to Firenze (Florence) to meet up with friends. It's been a lazy 3 days of just eating great food, avoiding crowds, and wandering this living museum. There are a ton of beautiful churches but we didn't feel the need to go inside any of them.

    The only real museum we went to is an amazing archaeology museum in a house. Imagine in the year 2000 that you started digging in your house to fix a plumbing problem and uncovered layers and layers of history multiple stories down. That's the Museo Faggiano. Here's a link to a New York Times article about it.

    https://www.nytimes.com/2015/04/15/world/europe…

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/FUQdcuLt3cZ77CLv7
    Læs mere

  • Matera, Italy

    22. marts 2025, Italien ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    This was another side trip from Bari. Matera is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It has been the poorest region in Italy forever. For thousands of years, people lived in caves here. In the 1950's, the government moved people into modern housing with plumbing. And then 40 years later, it turned into a tourist attraction.

    The hills are dotted with these caves called "Sassi." We spent 4 hours exploring the town.

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q8qJLuzEqjAWoJw6A
    Læs mere

  • Alberobello, Italy....Trulli beautiful

    22. marts 2025, Italien ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    We checked out this village on a day trip from Bari. It's known for these cool traditional houses called Trulli. Houses in this area used to be taxed if they used mortar. These industrious folks built these stone houses without it!

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZRGcPMjkj5re74YR8
    Læs mere

  • Monopoli, Italy

    21. marts 2025, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    We went to Monopoli on a day trip from Bari. It's only a half hour away on a fast regional train. This is where we enjoy using our Eurail passes. Not that anyone checks tickets here! I think of about 10 train rides so far, we've only been asked to show tickets 3 times.

    It was a sunny day and walking through the old town was a delight. We stopped in the Cathedral, another Baroque one. It has several amazing varieties of colored marble lining the walls and columns. I've never seen such beautiful purple marble before!

    Then it was off to the sea for a walk along the coast. There are still fishermen working here and their brightly painted boats are moored along the coast. We met some nice Bulgarian ladies on vacation. There are lots of Eastern Europeans in Italy this time of year, especially Poles. We hear lots of "dobra" and "tak" (Good, yes) while walking around. 😁

    There wasn't a whole lot else to do, so we opted to head to Polignano a Mare for lunch. It's just 5 minutes away on one of the many regional trains.
    Læs mere

  • Bari, Italy

    19.–23. mar. 2025, Italien ⋅ 🌙 46 °F

    Bari is in Puglia, on the Adriatic Sea and just across from Albania where we were last fall. It's been a major trade port for millennia, and was Europe's largest slave trading port in the past. Slav = slave and Turks and Arabs especially bought many conquered Slavs from here.

    Today, it's a large, modern city with the old city on a peninsula facing the sea. There's a well-kept castle museum that had great interactive videos to keep things interesting.

    Bari draws in Russian tourists who venerate St. Nicala, AKA Santa Claus. His bones were stolen from his tomb in Myra, Turkey by Bari sailors/ crusaders and brought here for some reason. They're now in a crypt under the Basilica San Nicola. I happened upon a mass full of these tourists. Check out the video.

    We've been to Myra in the past to see St. Nick's home town. He was a Byzantine bishop there and the stories of his giving to the poor led to him being canonized. I'm not quite sure how or why northern Europeans created the modern myth of Santa Claus.

    The old town is full of narrow, curved streets that are fun to meander through. One street has old ladies selling fresh pasta in front of their houses.

    We're using Bari as a base to visit about 3 other nearby towns on day trips. Once again, we found an amazing, newly remodeled apartment for under $70 in a convenient location. We definitely notice a difference from Sicily. It's cleaner here and a little less chaotic.😂

    More photos and videos are here.

    St. Nicola mass:
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/b4rN58YK1PFLEGNh8

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/yCHzDLRaVjVLYpbaA
    Læs mere

  • Messina, Sicily

    18.–19. mar. 2025, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Messina is the major port city of Sicily. Unfortunately, it's been destroyed a few times over the years including a major earthquake and tidal wave in 1908 and then damage from world War II when the Allies pushed the Nazis back to mainland Italy.

    That means there's not a whole lot to see for tourists. We spent the night here to break up our ride from Palermo. We're going all the way to Bari today which is in the heel of mainland Italy in Puglia.

    There is however, a nice art museum with two paintings from one of my favorite artists, Caravaggio. I need to read a book on this guy when I get back. He was on the lam for murder in Rome and escaped to Malta. While there, he got into a knife fight with a knight of St. John! 3 weeks ago we saw the prison cell where he was held at fort San Angelo. But he escaped and made his way to Sicily where he met up with friends and was commissioned to paint several paintings. The regional art museum in town holds two of them.

    We've got a 3-month Eurail pass and we planned to take the train from Messina to Bari today, but there's another one-day strike that caused us to buy bus tickets instead. Too bad because I really wanted to see how they load these trains on a ferry for the short crossing across the Messina straits.

    There really should be a bridge here because the straits are not very wide, but there's a lot of anti-bridge sentiment in Sicily. These ferries are slow and inefficient but provide a lot of jobs and I don't think they'll ever build a bridge. I included the satellite photo showing how the tracks lead right to the ferry. Instead, our bus will be loaded on the ferry and we'll be in Bari 2 hours earlier than the train.

    We had two wonderful weeks in sicily and I can't recommend it enough. The food is as good as it gets and there's something for everyone here.

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/SJChZCcbLxwA4f4a7
    Læs mere

  • Palermo, Sicily

    14.–17. mar. 2025, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    If I had to stereotype Sicilians, I'd say "They all scream, but they smile while they do it ." They really do talk loud, with hands, and often. But they're a friendly sort. Palermo is wacky, but fun.

    Wow. Just wow. We're on our fourth and last day here and it's been amazing. Palermo is gritty like Catania, but I like it so much more for some reason. I'd sworn off going to multiple churches in a day but yesterday I went to five of them! There's so much history here that it's hard to pass up these Norman churches that had Arabic craftsman adding touches to the Norman design with Byzantine mosaics inside.

    Today I visited the cathedral Monreale, which is about 45 minutes outside of town. It's also a masterpiece with golden mosaics telling stories from the Bible all around the interior.

    Yesterday we kind of messed up and went to Agrigento on the last day of the almond festival. We thought we could see the ancient Greek ruins, which are about the best in the world including Athens, and then attend the cultural festival afterwards. Well, they closed the ruins early so they could put up a stage for the festival (which was sold out). We went to the nearby museum and we could see the temples in the distance but we couldn't get inside. We had taken a train from Palermo and that was 2 and 1/2 hours transportation each way. What a disappointment! I didn't have the energy to go back the next day, but Deanne did. I opted for Monreale instead.

    Palermo has a lot of immigrants including South Asians so there's no shortage of different types of food. But we're here for Sicilian food and we've been having great meals of course.

    Despite what the photos show, it wasn't all churches. They have a modern harbor with a promenade and walking through a street market and any street really, was a treat. I feel like we barely scratched the surface.

    Tomorrow we take a train back to Messina to spend the night before we head to mainland Italy. We just spent two wonderful weeks exploring the football of Italy and now we're going to go hang out in the instep and the heel, Basilicata and Puglia.

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/W3M52TGhJjNkH3zg9

    And for those very few of you that can't get enough of Norman churches......

    Cattedrale di Monreale
    Duomo di Monreale
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/x4yLm8Zxr3zBF54ZA

    Chiesa del Gesù di Casa Professa
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/qfUNABewcJTS2ZQW8

    Chiesa Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio (Chiesa della Martorana)
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/UiAWgELCtgGjYWix6

    Church of Saint Caraldo
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/SKuuDJ7GxXAZo9RaA

    Chiesa di Santa Caterina d'Alessandria
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/RDYdYfAqAtLB6gRf6
    Læs mere

  • Cefalu, Sicily

    12.–14. mar. 2025, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    It's pronounced CHEH fay LOO. Hard one to say, but Cefalu is easy on the eyes. It's set on a rocky point sailors call a "head" hence the name of Greek origin. (Cephalus)

    The train up to Messina was beautiful. It hugged the coast, so we made sure to sit on the right side of the train going north. We changed trains in Messina but had time to grab an espresso before we left and then settled in for a 2-hour ride to Cefalu. It also hugged the coast but we switched from the Ionian Sea on the east side of Sicily for the Tyhrennian Sea on the north side.

    We had leftover pizza and a half a bottle of Etna red for lunch. For dessert, we had a couple more almond pastries and tried an amazing new dessert (for us) full of sweet pistachio butter. I have no idea what it's called but I may have to go back to Taormina just for that.

    Between guide books, novels on our e-readers, and lunch, the 3 1/2 hour trip went pretty quickly. This is why we prefer train travel.

    Cefalu is a small town and not too busy this time of year. We absolutely love it here. It's a great change of pace from Taormina, which has hordes of clueless tour groups clogging the streets. Our apartment here, and its host, are amazing. He left wine and coffee and lots of recommendations for us. He personally greeted us to show us around the apartment. That's really rare these days.

    We easily saw all the sights in a day and a half. The Cathedral has incredible mosaics behind the altar. It was built by Normans, who settled from northern France, and they were only a couple generations removed from their Viking forefathers.

    We had warm, sunny days here and wandering the narrow streets was fun. Eating at restaurants all the time can be a drag, so we had a picnic with the wine and the meat and cheese we brought. We didn't need it on the train.

    Last night's restaurant was so amazing, I made a reservation for tonight when I paid the bill. We sat right by the kitchen and were fascinated by the calm demeanor and professionalism of the four chefs. I opted for gluten free pasta with Bottarga. Hoo Boy. That was a new one. It's a fish roe pouch that's a Sicilian delicacy. It's quite "fishy " but I ate it all. Move over, anchovies. It was still perhaps our best meal in Sicily and half price of what we paid in Taormina.

    The next night we went back and sat at the same seats. The head chef recognized us and comped us a starter of panelle (chickpea flour fritters) and cazzille (mashed potato fritters), both gluten free. This meal was even better. Cefalu is wonderful but 2 nights is plenty and for those with little time, you can do it on a day trip.

    Tomorrow, we go to Palermo, Sicily's largest city on a 10 am train.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/CRtsPxqVtbSLtJN57
    Læs mere

  • Taormina, Sicily

    9.–12. mar. 2025, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Taormina is a resort town on a large cliff overlooking the sea. The rich and famous have been coming here for decades. While we aren't interested in the high end shops, the views are stunning and there's a huge, well-preserved Greco Roman amphitheater with seats pointing towards Etna in the distance. If you want to know what Taormina really looks like, check out Season 2 of White Lotus. It was filmed here

    We climbed up the long steps to a church built into a cave for the views. And we visited the amphitheater. Other than that, we just strolled the streets and soaked up the views while enjoying the local flavors (almonds and pistachios). We also tried our first granita, which in Taormina is between a sorbet and ice cream.

    Unfortunately it's been cloudy and we haven't been able to see Mt. Etna until the morning we left. The sun finally came out and burned off the clouds. A lot of people come here just for hiking or driving around the volcano. They make lots of wine and grow a lot of pistachios on those slopes. We've been fine with just chilling out and enjoying the clean and pleasant city but seeing it on our last day was a real treat.

    This will probably be the most expensive city on our trip in Italy and we're fine with a couple of fine dining experiences and also cooking in the apartment. Tomorrow we change trains in Messina and then head west to the port city of Cefalu.

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/GVFV3TwGPXV4C2Y4A
    Læs mere

  • Catania

    8.–9. mar. 2025, Italien ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    I figured one day is enough for this large city that many people fly into. And I was right. The historical center has lots of baroque churches and buildings (I'm sensing a theme, Sicily). But there's lots of trash everywhere and the rest of the city is pretty ugly. While waiting for a bus, I saw a local finish his lunch and then just drop his huge wrapper on the ground. I haven't seen that anywhere in years.

    After checking in our room, we walked to the nearby Allied Invasion Museum. It was huge and fascinating. D Day in Normandy gets all the press, but the US, British, and Canadians had a practice run here in July, 1943 when they invaded and pushed out the Fascist Italians and Nazis. They later crossed the straits of Messina to work their way up Italy.

    We made it to the center in time to see the famous fish market before it closed. It was boisterous and there's plenty of seafood restaurants in that area. We snacked on our first Arancini before we tried the seafood. It's a fried, stuffed rice ball and it was amazing.

    For dinner later we went to a popular street stall for fried mixed seafood in a cone and some fried bacalao (cod). I guess it was deep fry day, our first fried food of the trip. Most everything else on the trip has been slathered with delicious fresh olive oil.

    Then we joined the masses for the passeggiata, or evening stroll. Via Etnea is the place for that. And wow, I almost forgot that we got our first glimpse of Mt. Etna! It's cloudy today, but we got a peek. This is pistachio central, so grabbing a pistachio gelato for the paseggiata was a must.

    I scored a nice aparthotel room across from the bus and train station for the convenience. Those can be iffy, but this one is very nice and includes breakfast. And I used one of our credit card's travel site which reimburses the first $100 on hotel expenses per year, so it's basically free.

    Tomorrow morning, we take a train to Taormina, a resort style town up the coast a bit. Hopefully we'll l get better views of Etna.

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/ihzL4Ro2rje4LJf69
    Læs mere

  • Siracusa, Sicily

    5.–8. mar. 2025, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    Namesake of Syracuse, NY, home of Archimedes, envy of ancient Athens and Rome and all around good time, Siracusa is a fascinating city on the SE coast of Sicily.

    This area used to be called Magna Graecia, or Greater Greece since it was a colony of Corinth. Archimedes is a fascinating character. He was probably the smartest guy who ever lived at the time in the 200's BC. He invented the first water pump, block and tackles, the theory of pi, exponential numbers, and many military war machines that helped defeat the invading Romans. He was eventually killed by a Roman soldier while working on a problem.

    You may know him as the guy who said "Eureka" while running naked in the street after coming up with his water displacement theory while taking a bath.

    Because the city was levelled by an earthquake in the late 1600s, much of it was rebuilt in the baroque style like neighboring Noto. And that means it's a joy to just walk around and soak up the sights.

    We're staying in a large remodeled apartment in Ortigia ( or TEE jee a), the small island connected by bridges to the main city. Crowds are low this time of year, but we are seeing large groups of university students around on tours.

    It's easy to get a seat at restaurants without reservations and the food is top notch. Swordfish is common on menus, along with lots of other seafood.

    There's a large archaeological park on the north side of town and it has one of the best and largest preserved Greek theaters in Europe. The nearby museum was exhausting. I love history and archaeology but there's so much history here (from the stone age forward) that the thousands and thousands of found objects in display cases just overwhelmed us.

    What we preferred much better was just strolling around Ortigia day and night and enjoying the architecture, the coast, and amazing food and wine. We have 3 days and nights here and it's plenty enough time. It's also fun to have Louie and Derek join us to explore the city.

    There's a 24-hour train strike scheduled for tomorrow. That's so common in Italy. We think we can get a bus easily to our next stop, Catania, which is just over an hour away.

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/mXaorqRhBygVzCEx5
    Læs mere

  • Noto, Sicily

    4.–5. mar. 2025, Italien ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    We took a very early ferry from Malta to Southern Sicily. This time of year it was mostly empty but we did see a beautiful rainbow on the way.

    Once in Pozzallo, we took a taxi to the train station and activated our 3-month, all Europe Eurail pass. This is our third time using that pass and we love it. It's probably only worth it if you're traveling for a month or more. The 3-month pass cost only $100 more than the 2-month pass. It was only a 30-minute ride to Noto, our destination for the night.

    Noto is famous because the center of the city is full of baroque architectural masterpieces. An earthquake in the late 1600s devastated the city and that was the style at the time when the city was rebuilt.

    Unfortunately a lot of the palazzos are closed for the season or remodeling. But just walking around is pretty enjoyable. Most tours do this on a day trip from Siracusa, but it's worth an overnight.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/qD6qSQxTUKJ9QJTH8
    Læs mere

  • Malta

    26. feb.–4. mar. 2025, Malta ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    I didn't study up on Malta. I figured we'd just wing it. We've been looking forward to visiting Sicily and mainland Italy more. But wow, what a pleasant surprise.

    I'm a history buff, and there's SO much that's happened here. It's the key to the Mediterranean and has been for thousands of years. And that's why so many cultures have invaded and eventually lost power.

    Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, Normans, Spanish, the Knights of St. John, French, English...... They've all laid claim to Malta. The Knights of St. John were crusaders who were kicked out of Jerusalem, Cyprus, Rhodes, and were then given Malta as a base by the Spanish crown. They lasted a few hundred years until Napoleon came. And I have to admit I chose to visit Malta partially because we had a Maltese dog for years and wanted to visit his homeland. We also brought his cremated ashes. So yes, we're that type of people.

    What all that history translates to is a great mix of cultures and language and food. The Maltese language is actually a combination of Arabic and Italian all blended together. English is the other official language and that makes everything pretty easy for us. But there's also so many foreign immigrants that live here that are working in the service industry. Our Polish ride share driver from the airport was pretty much complaining about too many immigrants. "Five years ago, no South Asians. Now? 200,000!"

    It's late February but the weather is great. I don't mind daytime temperatures in the 60s at all. And while it's off season, there's still a fair amount of tourists here. But surprisingly, Malta is easy on the wallet. Food, wine and coffee is cheaper than what we were paying in Argentina just a couple months ago. And Deanne found a large two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment a block from the beach for only $63 a night. Off-season travel rocks!

    Most of the older buildings are made of limestone and they are stunning. The main Cathedral for the Knights of St. John is called of course St. John's Cathedral. It doesn't look like much from the outside, but the inside is an amazing baroque masterpiece. The head of the order was called The grandmaster and his palace is now a large state museum. It has the largest collection of medieval weapons and armor I've ever seen.

    Our friend Louie arrived from New York 2 days after we arrived to travel with us for a little while. His partner Derek will join us in a few days. So we had a couple days to see some sights alone including Fort San Angelo, the main fort of the Knights of St John. Malta has plentiful deep harbors and that's one of the reasons so many empires wanted to control Malta.

    It's much faster to take a short ferry instead of a bus or taxi for many sights. For the same cost as a bus, you can zip across a harbor to be at Valletta from Sliema, Fort San Angelo, or one of the "Three Cities" which are 3 peninsulas that jut out into the harbor. We just love walking around the narrow streets here.

    Fortunately for us it's Carnival time and it's a big deal here. Many of the historical buildings and the Carnival parades are in Valletta. We're staying in Sliema, just a 10-15 minute cab drive away. We knew there was a parade in Valletta last night so we just hung out there after a delicious lunch and had a few drinks and watched the carnival revelers setup. It's a fairly low-key and family affair which is nice.

    Deanne and Louie had separately found a Michelin starred restaurant nearby that they wanted to try and on a whim we stopped in for dinner and were able to be seated within 15 minutes. That was after watching many of the floats go by. We thought we were done with Carnival by then and had a leisurely meal. It was amazing and again, very easy on the wallet. When we were done we started walking back to an area where we could take a cab and realized the Carnival parade was still going on and we caught up to it. What a great day. By 10:20 pm the parade was over, the cleanup crews were going strong, there was no vomit and no violence either. This ain't no Bourbon Street.

    The next day we took a rideshare to the center of the island. The original capital was called Mdina and it's a walled city surrounded by a moat. It was another sunny day to walk through history. Mdina is situated right next to Rabat, which has its own charms. We found a pastry shop and had to pass on the Cannolis as two of the three of us are gluten free. We opted for a coconut chocolate nougat candy. One bite in we were like "oh my God it's a homemade Mounds bar!" But so much better. They were one Euro each. We literally have sticker shock (the good kind) and we're hoping no one tells them that they're under selling everything here.

    The next day there was some debauchery at more Carnival parades. And in our last full day we took a boat cruise to the second main island of Malta called Gozo. The six days and nights here went very quickly and it's been a blast. I can't help but recommend Malta as a vacation spot. We just happened to be here for Carnival, a huge bonus. Tomorrow morning we're taking a very early ferry to Sicily where we start the next leg of our trip.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/gCHBfjMgccNgTBvt6

    Carnival photos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/eqJbAfc4rWPEoDQw6
    Læs mere

  • Valparaiso, Chile

    25.–27. jan. 2025, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Sooooo many hills, sooooo much street art. That's Valpo, or Valparaiso, Chile's 2nd largest city after Santiago. It's built on multiple steep hills overlooking Chile's largest port on the Pacific. This was a major stop for ships that went through the Magellan straits from the east coast of the US or Europe back in the day. If you were headed to the 1848 California gold rush from New York, you might take several days to rest here.

    It's got a funky vibe. Most walls and entire buildings are covered in beautiful murals in our neighborhood, Cerro Allegre, one of the many hilltops. There are a lot more tourists here than I expected, mostly Chilean. And we're hearing English for about the first time in Chile. Foreign tourists tend to do a day or 2 in Santiago and then beat it to Patagonia.

    There's lots of Jazz playing in cafes and houses as we walk around. If I had to describe it, I'd say it's a hodgepodge of a Rio favela meets New Orleans in 1950s San Francisco. There are several ascensores, or antique funiculars that cost 100 pesos (a dime) to scoot to the top of a hill. Some are over 100 years old.

    We were tempted to skip it altogether but I'm glad we didn't. In 2019 there were major riots and protests against the government in Chile. Santiago and Valparaiso experienced a lot of vandalism and crime. Then came Covid. Valpo especially became graffiti tagged and crime ridden.

    Tourists are just now starting to come back. Chileans on Reddit were almost universally saying to avoid it. Our hotel host in Santa Cruz told us we'd get robbed. But our friends in Santiago, Sebastian and Teresa had just returned from a weekend there and had a great time. We are staying at their recommended hotel, which has a locked parking spot. Granted, it's an unpaved ledge carved into a hill, but it's secure with cameras.

    There's not a lot to do other than to walk around enjoying the street art, grabbing a coffee, or enjoying the views at a rooftop restaurant. Two nights is plenty. But this area is totally safe and we've enjoyed it.

    We head home tomorrow. It's been 9 weeks for me and 5 for Deanne. There weren't any real lowlights to the trip and we both agree that Iguazu Falls and Buenos Aires were the trip highlights.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/FKnVhqQxMzknX2WCA
    Læs mere

  • Las Cruces, Chile

    23.–25. jan. 2025, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    There's a ton of beach towns in Chile, given it's long coastline. We arbitrarily chose Las Cruces. It's small and we found a condo near the beach with a 4th floor view. It wasn't that great of a place, but the views were amazing and there was a lot of security.

    Chilean's don't mess around with that. Everything is locked up tight and hidden behind walls. What may look like a warehouse district could be hiding a Shangri La behind those ugly walls. We had a locked parking lot with 24 hour guards and other guards walking the grounds 24 hours a day. I haven't felt unsafe on this trip once.

    We had 2 nice days at the beach, our last ones of the trip. We didn't see any other foreigners here. It's all Chilenos having a vacation at the beach. When we went to a small verderia, or vegetable stand, a young girl working there just started at me open mouthed. I said you don't see too many foreigners here, do you? And she just shook her head no. I guess I'm pretty tall for them.

    Next stop, Valparaiso., the 2nd largest city in Chile.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/bq1miXGPD2Ks2CdR8
    Læs mere

  • Wine Country, Chilean Style

    21.–23. jan. 2025, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    We rented a car in Santiago so we could see wine country. Santa Cruz is a couple hours south of Santiago and is one of the more famous wine regions in a country full of wine regions. On the way out of town, we toured the Viña Aquitania winery. It's a small organic winery. The tour guide was really good and the wine was even better.

    Santa Cruz itself is not much to look at. But it's a fertile valley and there's wineries everywhere in the region. We stayed at a nice place in town at a private courtyard with a grape arbor and fantastic breakfasts.

    Our friend Teresa from Santiago recommended many places for us to visit. Also, our friend Louie had been to one in the area and we went to it (Clos Apalta) since it was recommended by both. It's a high-end winery that has won many awards over the years. It was a private, unscheduled tour.

    The owners must have spent millions developing the winery. It's built into a granite hill and uses gravity to move the wine down through multiple levels. The most amazing part was the owner's private cellar, which is deep in the granite hill. It looks like the private lair of a James Bond villain. Wines in this region are mostly reds, particularly Carmenere and Cabernet Sauvignon.

    The next day we did just a tasting at a nearby winery called Laura Hartwig. All the tastings were great except one that I knew I might not like. Orange wines are kind of a thing in Europe now. It's a white grape and the skins are left on during the fermentation. It's different than a rose and it's a little astringent. That's about the only one I didn't really care for.

    On our last day we went to a recommended museum in town. Wow! What a surprise. It's a world class museum and probably one of the best in Chile. Apparently there is a really rich arms dealer from Santa Cruz who spent a lot of his money developing this museum. It covers prehistory all the way through modern Chilean history.

    I've been to many museums in Peru that highlighted that region's pre-columbian civilizations. But this museum had an amazing collection of pottery and artifacts from each of those cultures in one building.

    I'd heard a little bit about the Pacific War when I was in Bolivia years ago. Basically, Chile fought against Bolivia and Peru in the 1880's and won the war of the Pacific and that's how they got the top 20% of their land. Bolivia used to have a port to the sea and lost it during that war. Bolivia and Paraguay are now the only landlocked countries in South America.

    Afterwards, we drove about 2 1/2 hours northwest of Santa Cruz to stay in a village on the Pacific coast. We have about 4 more days on this trip and after 2 more beach days, we'll go to Valparaiso for our last stop.

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/TKo4PiicFeuGGYBK7
    Læs mere

  • Back to Santiago

    17.–19. jan. 2025, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    I booked an apartment in Barrio Brasil again since I liked it so much the first time. A new, small apartment with a pool cost $54/ night. It's like the east side of Madison a bit, what with the lefty vibe. There are a lot of Universities in the area.

    We spent one full day sightseeing including 2 museums. And we had a great meal in the lovely Lastarria neighborhood. It was so flavorful! Argentina and especially Uruguay lack flavor in their foods. Chile can also, but we found a restaurant that
    spiced up some tuna and steak.

    We went for drinks on Friday at happy hour and found a lively place with Karaoke. No, we did not partake.

    On Saturday afternoon, we went for a walk at 7pm and stumbled on a huge Carnival parade. What luck. We just followed the music and saw about 10 groups dance past us.

    On Sunday, we went to some friends house for lunch. Sebastian and Teresa are from Santiago and lived in Madison for a year working on a journalism project with the UW. We had them over for a BBQ on the lake once. Lunch was amazing and it was great to catch up on things.

    Santiago has gotten a bit dodgy lately, so we have avoided some neighborhoods. We've had a great time just wondering around after taking buses or the subway. Lunch today was in Barrio Italia, a restaurant and bar district. That was after seeing the sights downtown, including a bizarre find: strip club coffee shops! Deanne wouldn't let me go in.

    We're in the homestretch now. There's about a week left on this trip. I'm renting a car so we have some flexibility and we'll hit some of the famous wineries Chile is known for.

    My photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/dHS8WTcc5FbGf6KN7
    Læs mere

Få din egen rejseprofil

Gratis

QR code

FindPenguins til iOSFindPenguins til Android