Europe 2025

February - May 2025
A 78-day adventure by Dave Read more

List of countries

  • Germany
  • Netherlands
  • France
  • Monaco
  • San Marino
  • Italy
  • Malta
Categories
Around the world, Couple
  • 4.9kmiles traveled
Means of transport
  • Train4,613kilometers
  • Ferry178kilometers
  • Flight-kilometers
  • Walking-kilometers
  • Hiking-kilometers
  • Bicycle-kilometers
  • Motorbike-kilometers
  • Tuk Tuk-kilometers
  • Car-kilometers
  • Bus-kilometers
  • Camper-kilometers
  • Caravan-kilometers
  • 4x4-kilometers
  • Swimming-kilometers
  • Paddling/Rowing-kilometers
  • Motorboat-kilometers
  • Sailing-kilometers
  • Houseboat-kilometers
  • Cruise ship-kilometers
  • Horse-kilometers
  • Skiing-kilometers
  • Hitchhiking-kilometers
  • Cable car-kilometers
  • Helicopter-kilometers
  • Barefoot-kilometers
  • 41footprints
  • 78days
  • 779photos
  • 45likes
  • Day 2–8

    Malta

    February 26 in Malta ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    I didn't study up on Malta. I figured we'd just wing it. We've been looking forward to visiting Sicily and mainland Italy more. But wow, what a pleasant surprise.

    I'm a history buff, and there's SO much that's happened here. It's the key to the Mediterranean and has been for thousands of years. And that's why so many cultures have invaded and eventually lost power.

    Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, Normans, Spanish, the Knights of St. John, French, English...... They've all laid claim to Malta. The Knights of St. John were crusaders who were kicked out of Jerusalem, Cyprus, Rhodes, and were then given Malta as a base by the Spanish crown. They lasted a few hundred years until Napoleon came. And I have to admit I chose to visit Malta partially because we had a Maltese dog for years and wanted to visit his homeland. We also brought his cremated ashes. So yes, we're that type of people.

    What all that history translates to is a great mix of cultures and language and food. The Maltese language is actually a combination of Arabic and Italian all blended together. English is the other official language and that makes everything pretty easy for us. But there's also so many foreign immigrants that live here that are working in the service industry. Our Polish ride share driver from the airport was pretty much complaining about too many immigrants. "Five years ago, no South Asians. Now? 200,000!"

    It's late February but the weather is great. I don't mind daytime temperatures in the 60s at all. And while it's off season, there's still a fair amount of tourists here. But surprisingly, Malta is easy on the wallet. Food, wine and coffee is cheaper than what we were paying in Argentina just a couple months ago. And Deanne found a large two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment a block from the beach for only $63 a night. Off-season travel rocks!

    Most of the older buildings are made of limestone and they are stunning. The main Cathedral for the Knights of St. John is called of course St. John's Cathedral. It doesn't look like much from the outside, but the inside is an amazing baroque masterpiece. The head of the order was called The grandmaster and his palace is now a large state museum. It has the largest collection of medieval weapons and armor I've ever seen.

    Our friend Louie arrived from New York 2 days after we arrived to travel with us for a little while. His partner Derek will join us in a few days. So we had a couple days to see some sights alone including Fort San Angelo, the main fort of the Knights of St John. Malta has plentiful deep harbors and that's one of the reasons so many empires wanted to control Malta.

    It's much faster to take a short ferry instead of a bus or taxi for many sights. For the same cost as a bus, you can zip across a harbor to be at Valletta from Sliema, Fort San Angelo, or one of the "Three Cities" which are 3 peninsulas that jut out into the harbor. We just love walking around the narrow streets here.

    Fortunately for us it's Carnival time and it's a big deal here. Many of the historical buildings and the Carnival parades are in Valletta. We're staying in Sliema, just a 10-15 minute cab drive away. We knew there was a parade in Valletta last night so we just hung out there after a delicious lunch and had a few drinks and watched the carnival revelers setup. It's a fairly low-key and family affair which is nice.

    Deanne and Louie had separately found a Michelin starred restaurant nearby that they wanted to try and on a whim we stopped in for dinner and were able to be seated within 15 minutes. That was after watching many of the floats go by. We thought we were done with Carnival by then and had a leisurely meal. It was amazing and again, very easy on the wallet. When we were done we started walking back to an area where we could take a cab and realized the Carnival parade was still going on and we caught up to it. What a great day. By 10:20 pm the parade was over, the cleanup crews were going strong, there was no vomit and no violence either. This ain't no Bourbon Street.

    The next day we took a rideshare to the center of the island. The original capital was called Mdina and it's a walled city surrounded by a moat. It was another sunny day to walk through history. Mdina is situated right next to Rabat, which has its own charms. We found a pastry shop and had to pass on the Cannolis as two of the three of us are gluten free. We opted for a coconut chocolate nougat candy. One bite in we were like "oh my God it's a homemade Mounds bar!" But so much better. They were one Euro each. We literally have sticker shock (the good kind) and we're hoping no one tells them that they're under selling everything here.

    The next day there was some debauchery at more Carnival parades. And in our last full day we took a boat cruise to the second main island of Malta called Gozo. The six days and nights here went very quickly and it's been a blast. I can't help but recommend Malta as a vacation spot. We just happened to be here for Carnival, a huge bonus. Tomorrow morning we're taking a very early ferry to Sicily where we start the next leg of our trip.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/gCHBfjMgccNgTBvt6

    Carnival photos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/eqJbAfc4rWPEoDQw6
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  • Day 8–9

    Noto, Sicily

    March 4 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    We took a very early ferry from Malta to Southern Sicily. This time of year it was mostly empty but we did see a beautiful rainbow on the way.

    Once in Pozzallo, we took a taxi to the train station and activated our 3-month, all Europe Eurail pass. This is our third time using that pass and we love it. It's probably only worth it if you're traveling for a month or more. The 3-month pass cost only $100 more than the 2-month pass. It was only a 30-minute ride to Noto, our destination for the night.

    Noto is famous because the center of the city is full of baroque architectural masterpieces. An earthquake in the late 1600s devastated the city and that was the style at the time when the city was rebuilt.

    Unfortunately a lot of the palazzos are closed for the season or remodeling. But just walking around is pretty enjoyable. Most tours do this on a day trip from Siracusa, but it's worth an overnight.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/qD6qSQxTUKJ9QJTH8
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  • Day 9–12

    Siracusa, Sicily

    March 5 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    Namesake of Syracuse, NY, home of Archimedes, envy of ancient Athens and Rome and all around good time, Siracusa is a fascinating city on the SE coast of Sicily.

    This area used to be called Magna Graecia, or Greater Greece since it was a colony of Corinth. Archimedes is a fascinating character. He was probably the smartest guy who ever lived at the time in the 200's BC. He invented the first water pump, block and tackles, the theory of pi, exponential numbers, and many military war machines that helped defeat the invading Romans. He was eventually killed by a Roman soldier while working on a problem.

    You may know him as the guy who said "Eureka" while running naked in the street after coming up with his water displacement theory while taking a bath.

    Because the city was levelled by an earthquake in the late 1600s, much of it was rebuilt in the baroque style like neighboring Noto. And that means it's a joy to just walk around and soak up the sights.

    We're staying in a large remodeled apartment in Ortigia ( or TEE jee a), the small island connected by bridges to the main city. Crowds are low this time of year, but we are seeing large groups of university students around on tours.

    It's easy to get a seat at restaurants without reservations and the food is top notch. Swordfish is common on menus, along with lots of other seafood.

    There's a large archaeological park on the north side of town and it has one of the best and largest preserved Greek theaters in Europe. The nearby museum was exhausting. I love history and archaeology but there's so much history here (from the stone age forward) that the thousands and thousands of found objects in display cases just overwhelmed us.

    What we preferred much better was just strolling around Ortigia day and night and enjoying the architecture, the coast, and amazing food and wine. We have 3 days and nights here and it's plenty enough time. It's also fun to have Louie and Derek join us to explore the city.

    There's a 24-hour train strike scheduled for tomorrow. That's so common in Italy. We think we can get a bus easily to our next stop, Catania, which is just over an hour away.

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/mXaorqRhBygVzCEx5
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  • Day 12–13

    Catania

    March 8 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    I figured one day is enough for this large city that many people fly into. And I was right. The historical center has lots of baroque churches and buildings (I'm sensing a theme, Sicily). But there's lots of trash everywhere and the rest of the city is pretty ugly. While waiting for a bus, I saw a local finish his lunch and then just drop his huge wrapper on the ground. I haven't seen that anywhere in years.

    After checking in our room, we walked to the nearby Allied Invasion Museum. It was huge and fascinating. D Day in Normandy gets all the press, but the US, British, and Canadians had a practice run here in July, 1943 when they invaded and pushed out the Fascist Italians and Nazis. They later crossed the straits of Messina to work their way up Italy.

    We made it to the center in time to see the famous fish market before it closed. It was boisterous and there's plenty of seafood restaurants in that area. We snacked on our first Arancini before we tried the seafood. It's a fried, stuffed rice ball and it was amazing.

    For dinner later we went to a popular street stall for fried mixed seafood in a cone and some fried bacalao (cod). I guess it was deep fry day, our first fried food of the trip. Most everything else on the trip has been slathered with delicious fresh olive oil.

    Then we joined the masses for the passeggiata, or evening stroll. Via Etnea is the place for that. And wow, I almost forgot that we got our first glimpse of Mt. Etna! It's cloudy today, but we got a peek. This is pistachio central, so grabbing a pistachio gelato for the paseggiata was a must.

    I scored a nice aparthotel room across from the bus and train station for the convenience. Those can be iffy, but this one is very nice and includes breakfast. And I used one of our credit card's travel site which reimburses the first $100 on hotel expenses per year, so it's basically free.

    Tomorrow morning, we take a train to Taormina, a resort style town up the coast a bit. Hopefully we'll l get better views of Etna.

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/ihzL4Ro2rje4LJf69
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  • Day 13–16

    Taormina, Sicily

    March 9 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Taormina is a resort town on a large cliff overlooking the sea. The rich and famous have been coming here for decades. While we aren't interested in the high end shops, the views are stunning and there's a huge, well-preserved Greco Roman amphitheater with seats pointing towards Etna in the distance. If you want to know what Taormina really looks like, check out Season 2 of White Lotus. It was filmed here

    We climbed up the long steps to a church built into a cave for the views. And we visited the amphitheater. Other than that, we just strolled the streets and soaked up the views while enjoying the local flavors (almonds and pistachios). We also tried our first granita, which in Taormina is between a sorbet and ice cream.

    Unfortunately it's been cloudy and we haven't been able to see Mt. Etna until the morning we left. The sun finally came out and burned off the clouds. A lot of people come here just for hiking or driving around the volcano. They make lots of wine and grow a lot of pistachios on those slopes. We've been fine with just chilling out and enjoying the clean and pleasant city but seeing it on our last day was a real treat.

    This will probably be the most expensive city on our trip in Italy and we're fine with a couple of fine dining experiences and also cooking in the apartment. Tomorrow we change trains in Messina and then head west to the port city of Cefalu.

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/GVFV3TwGPXV4C2Y4A
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  • Day 16–18

    Cefalu, Sicily

    March 12 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    It's pronounced CHEH fay LOO. Hard one to say, but Cefalu is easy on the eyes. It's set on a rocky point sailors call a "head" hence the name of Greek origin. (Cephalus)

    The train up to Messina was beautiful. It hugged the coast, so we made sure to sit on the right side of the train going north. We changed trains in Messina but had time to grab an espresso before we left and then settled in for a 2-hour ride to Cefalu. It also hugged the coast but we switched from the Ionian Sea on the east side of Sicily for the Tyhrennian Sea on the north side.

    We had leftover pizza and a half a bottle of Etna red for lunch. For dessert, we had a couple more almond pastries and tried an amazing new dessert (for us) full of sweet pistachio butter. I have no idea what it's called but I may have to go back to Taormina just for that.

    Between guide books, novels on our e-readers, and lunch, the 3 1/2 hour trip went pretty quickly. This is why we prefer train travel.

    Cefalu is a small town and not too busy this time of year. We absolutely love it here. It's a great change of pace from Taormina, which has hordes of clueless tour groups clogging the streets. Our apartment here, and its host, are amazing. He left wine and coffee and lots of recommendations for us. He personally greeted us to show us around the apartment. That's really rare these days.

    We easily saw all the sights in a day and a half. The Cathedral has incredible mosaics behind the altar. It was built by Normans, who settled from northern France, and they were only a couple generations removed from their Viking forefathers.

    We had warm, sunny days here and wandering the narrow streets was fun. Eating at restaurants all the time can be a drag, so we had a picnic with the wine and the meat and cheese we brought. We didn't need it on the train.

    Last night's restaurant was so amazing, I made a reservation for tonight when I paid the bill. We sat right by the kitchen and were fascinated by the calm demeanor and professionalism of the four chefs. I opted for gluten free pasta with Bottarga. Hoo Boy. That was a new one. It's a fish roe pouch that's a Sicilian delicacy. It's quite "fishy " but I ate it all. Move over, anchovies. It was still perhaps our best meal in Sicily and half price of what we paid in Taormina.

    The next night we went back and sat at the same seats. The head chef recognized us and comped us a starter of panelle (chickpea flour fritters) and cazzille (mashed potato fritters), both gluten free. This meal was even better. Cefalu is wonderful but 2 nights is plenty and for those with little time, you can do it on a day trip.

    Tomorrow, we go to Palermo, Sicily's largest city on a 10 am train.

    More photos and videos are here.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/CRtsPxqVtbSLtJN57
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  • Day 18–21

    Palermo, Sicily

    March 14 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    If I had to stereotype Sicilians, I'd say "They all scream, but they smile while they do it ." They really do talk loud, with hands, and often. But they're a friendly sort. Palermo is wacky, but fun.

    Wow. Just wow. We're on our fourth and last day here and it's been amazing. Palermo is gritty like Catania, but I like it so much more for some reason. I'd sworn off going to multiple churches in a day but yesterday I went to five of them! There's so much history here that it's hard to pass up these Norman churches that had Arabic craftsman adding touches to the Norman design with Byzantine mosaics inside.

    Today I visited the cathedral Monreale, which is about 45 minutes outside of town. It's also a masterpiece with golden mosaics telling stories from the Bible all around the interior.

    Yesterday we kind of messed up and went to Agrigento on the last day of the almond festival. We thought we could see the ancient Greek ruins, which are about the best in the world including Athens, and then attend the cultural festival afterwards. Well, they closed the ruins early so they could put up a stage for the festival (which was sold out). We went to the nearby museum and we could see the temples in the distance but we couldn't get inside. We had taken a train from Palermo and that was 2 and 1/2 hours transportation each way. What a disappointment! I didn't have the energy to go back the next day, but Deanne did. I opted for Monreale instead.

    Palermo has a lot of immigrants including South Asians so there's no shortage of different types of food. But we're here for Sicilian food and we've been having great meals of course.

    Despite what the photos show, it wasn't all churches. They have a modern harbor with a promenade and walking through a street market and any street really, was a treat. I feel like we barely scratched the surface.

    Tomorrow we take a train back to Messina to spend the night before we head to mainland Italy. We just spent two wonderful weeks exploring the football of Italy and now we're going to go hang out in the instep and the heel, Basilicata and Puglia.

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/W3M52TGhJjNkH3zg9

    And for those very few of you that can't get enough of Norman churches......

    Cattedrale di Monreale
    Duomo di Monreale
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/x4yLm8Zxr3zBF54ZA

    Chiesa del Gesù di Casa Professa
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/qfUNABewcJTS2ZQW8

    Chiesa Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio (Chiesa della Martorana)
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/UiAWgELCtgGjYWix6

    Church of Saint Caraldo
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/SKuuDJ7GxXAZo9RaA

    Chiesa di Santa Caterina d'Alessandria
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/RDYdYfAqAtLB6gRf6
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  • Day 22–23

    Messina, Sicily

    March 18 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Messina is the major port city of Sicily. Unfortunately, it's been destroyed a few times over the years including a major earthquake and tidal wave in 1908 and then damage from world War II when the Allies pushed the Nazis back to mainland Italy.

    That means there's not a whole lot to see for tourists. We spent the night here to break up our ride from Palermo. We're going all the way to Bari today which is in the heel of mainland Italy in Puglia.

    There is however, a nice art museum with two paintings from one of my favorite artists, Caravaggio. I need to read a book on this guy when I get back. He was on the lam for murder in Rome and escaped to Malta. While there, he got into a knife fight with a knight of St. John! 3 weeks ago we saw the prison cell where he was held at fort San Angelo. But he escaped and made his way to Sicily where he met up with friends and was commissioned to paint several paintings. The regional art museum in town holds two of them.

    We've got a 3-month Eurail pass and we planned to take the train from Messina to Bari today, but there's another one-day strike that caused us to buy bus tickets instead. Too bad because I really wanted to see how they load these trains on a ferry for the short crossing across the Messina straits.

    There really should be a bridge here because the straits are not very wide, but there's a lot of anti-bridge sentiment in Sicily. These ferries are slow and inefficient but provide a lot of jobs and I don't think they'll ever build a bridge. I included the satellite photo showing how the tracks lead right to the ferry. Instead, our bus will be loaded on the ferry and we'll be in Bari 2 hours earlier than the train.

    We had two wonderful weeks in sicily and I can't recommend it enough. The food is as good as it gets and there's something for everyone here.

    More photos and videos are here.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/SJChZCcbLxwA4f4a7
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  • Day 23–27

    Bari, Italy

    March 19 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 46 °F

    Bari is in Puglia, on the Adriatic Sea and just across from Albania where we were last fall. It's been a major trade port for millennia, and was Europe's largest slave trading port in the past. Slav = slave and Turks and Arabs especially bought many conquered Slavs from here.

    Today, it's a large, modern city with the old city on a peninsula facing the sea. There's a well-kept castle museum that had great interactive videos to keep things interesting.

    Bari draws in Russian tourists who venerate St. Nicala, AKA Santa Claus. His bones were stolen from his tomb in Myra, Turkey by Bari sailors/ crusaders and brought here for some reason. They're now in a crypt under the Basilica San Nicola. I happened upon a mass full of these tourists. Check out the video.

    We've been to Myra in the past to see St. Nick's home town. He was a Byzantine bishop there and the stories of his giving to the poor led to him being canonized. I'm not quite sure how or why northern Europeans created the modern myth of Santa Claus.

    The old town is full of narrow, curved streets that are fun to meander through. One street has old ladies selling fresh pasta in front of their houses.

    We're using Bari as a base to visit about 3 other nearby towns on day trips. Once again, we found an amazing, newly remodeled apartment for under $70 in a convenient location. We definitely notice a difference from Sicily. It's cleaner here and a little less chaotic.😂

    More photos and videos are here.

    St. Nicola mass:
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/b4rN58YK1PFLEGNh8

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/yCHzDLRaVjVLYpbaA
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  • Day 25

    Monopoli, Italy

    March 21 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    We went to Monopoli on a day trip from Bari. It's only a half hour away on a fast regional train. This is where we enjoy using our Eurail passes. Not that anyone checks tickets here! I think of about 10 train rides so far, we've only been asked to show tickets 3 times.

    It was a sunny day and walking through the old town was a delight. We stopped in the Cathedral, another Baroque one. It has several amazing varieties of colored marble lining the walls and columns. I've never seen such beautiful purple marble before!

    Then it was off to the sea for a walk along the coast. There are still fishermen working here and their brightly painted boats are moored along the coast. We met some nice Bulgarian ladies on vacation. There are lots of Eastern Europeans in Italy this time of year, especially Poles. We hear lots of "dobra" and "tak" (Good, yes) while walking around. 😁

    There wasn't a whole lot else to do, so we opted to head to Polignano a Mare for lunch. It's just 5 minutes away on one of the many regional trains.
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