• Holly and Karl

Southward Bound

Een 264-daags avontuur van Holly Meer informatie
  • Dangriga Decisions

    7 maart 2016, Belize ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Our first impressions of Dangriga weren't great either: all the hotels and hostels were far more expensive than we were used to and everything was closed on Sunday, the town was looking rough from the most recent dowsing of rain and even the beach was gray and uninviting. We eventually settled in at D's Hostel and bathed in WiFi for nearly 12 hours trying to decide what we could afford to do for a vacation in Belize. We left the hostel the next morning with loose plans to continue riding, despite how rundown we were feeling. We loaded up and headed to check in with Island Expeditions, a kayak business with links to Pemberton that Karl's parents had connected us with, before we left town.Meer informatie

  • An Island Expedition

    7 maart 2016, Belize ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    The next thing we knew we were scrambling to repack our gear and buy a few days of food for an adventure to Tabacco Caye... things can change so fast in our world! After discussing various jungle and island excursions with the guys at Island Expeditions, it became clear that a few days spent relaxing at Tabacco Caye was the easiest, and likely cheapest, way to get our well-needed beach vacation. Since they already had a resupply boat heading out to the Caye in an hour, we quickly switched to beach vacay mode and hopped onto the already well-loaded boat along with 4 kayaks, a wooden bed frame, gear, fuel and more. The 40-minute ride was a bit choppy, on account of the on-shore wind, but then we got closer to the reef and were surrounded by stunning coconut covered islands. People were snorkeling, stand-up paddle boarding, and just relaxing on the Caye when we got there. After establishing where we could put up our tent (spartan quarters compared to the more upscale cabana options, but still a pretty penny), Karl quickly got to work using the machete gifted to us by another cyclist to harvest the one abundant natural resource on the island - coconuts.Meer informatie

  • Now This is a Vacation!

    8 maart 2016, Belize ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    We quickly adapted to the pace of relaxed island living: reading or napping in a hammock, exploring the different parts of the small island, bird watching, lounging in the sun, snorkeling, joining in a game of beach volleyball, and watching Garifuna drumming performances at the open air bar. We also made friends with our lovely Canadian cabana neighbors, a Dutch sailor moored just off the island (he invited us for beers after we swam out to visit his boat), and the friendly students and staff from a small university in Nebraska taking part in a marine biology field course.Meer informatie

  • Back to the Mainland

    10 maart 2016, Belize ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Tobacco Caye was good to us, but we were running out of food and felt like we had seen a good sampling of sealife in the surrounding reef, so we got on a boat back to Dangriga and switched back to bike mode. Our friends from the Nebraska field course came ashore on the next boat so we got to show off our loaded bikes and get a picture together. We gave Dangriga another chance and enjoyed seeing the town sunny and alive on a Thursday morning. After exploring the streets and the town market we bought some relatively cheap and delicious food from the vendors that we had missed when we arrived on Sunday, then rolled on. The road even seemed better as we pedalled out of Dangriga with the wind at our backs. A short ride past more orange orchards got us to the quiet town of Hopkins. We quickly felt at home here with lots of friendly folks in the streets. We managed to buy gasoline for our stove from a family "gas station", and set up our tent beside a beach bar for the night.Meer informatie

  • Cockscomb Basin Jaguar Preserve

    11 maart 2016, Belize ⋅ ⛅ 36 °C

    From Hopkins we had another short ride into the Cockscomb Basin Jaguar Preserve. We didn't see any jaguars, but we did see two groups of speedy little wild pigs (peccarys) and a white-nosed coati. We also heard a lot of birds calling from the tree tops and managed to identify a few obvious ones like the crested guan and the black-cowled oriole. In the meantime, we did a couple of nice little hikes to beautiful waterfall pools where we got some relief from the oppressively humid jungle heat. Cockscomb is another place that you could spend a lot of time if you were dedicated to seeing more jungle life, but we didn't bring much food with us on the 10 km dirt road detour so had to settled for just one day and night in the park.Meer informatie

  • To the End of the Road

    13 maart 2016, Belize ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We decided to ride the spit through Placencia to break up the monotonous scenery of the Southern Highway, and what a change it was. We passed numerous mansions on the precariously narrow spit and and the Placencia Residences where your house comes with boat access canals. We found some public beach access for a nice break before we reached Placencia, bought some over priced juice and caught the Hokey Pokey ferry (its real name!) back to the mainland at Independance. We spent the night at a church in a small hamlet along the road and finished the ride to Punta Gorda the next day. The heat was intense, so we were relieved to reach the ocean again just north of town and swim in the warm waters of the Caribean. After a tasty lunch we went looking for a hotel and spent the afternoon relaxing in front of a fan (and hand washing clothes in fits of productivity). PG was fairly sleepy on a Sunday, but the market and the streets came to life the next morning as we grabbed snacks for our boat ride to Livingston. On our way to customs at the dock we ran into Gaetan, our friend from Whitehorse, who we had known we might cross as he was heading north through Belize, but it still felt so surprising to just bump into him on the street like that. We swapped travel tips and stories, then stamped out of Belize and by 1:00 pm we were headed back to Guatemala.Meer informatie

  • A Taste of Livingston

    14 maart 2016, Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Upon arriving back in Guatemala we were again greeted with colours and noise and many street vendors selling delicious food and all kinds of other things as well - this sort of bustle just wasn't part of our experience in Belize. Livingston does have a large Garifuna population as well, though, so the multiculturalism we had encountered in southern Belize was still apparent in this little enclave of Guatemala. We met a British expat Chris on the boat ride from PG to Livingston and he invited us to camp at his hostel, Casa de la Iguana for the night. We set up our tent on the grass among the bamboo cabanas and had a relaxing afternoon lounging and working on some gear repairs. We bought some cheap empanadas for dinner (yay to the return to inexpensive street food!) and almost bought a kitten instead of an onion for a change. The next day we enjoyed riding through town and along the beach to Los Siete Altares, although the site wasn't as impressive in the dry season as you could imagine it would be when the river is actually flowing. The ride along the beach past fishermen and pelicans at work in the shallow water made for an enjoyable morning outing though.Meer informatie

  • Rio Dulce

    15 maart 2016, Guatemala ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    To return to Guatemala's road network we jumped on another boat for a beautiful ride up the Rio Dulce to the town of Fronteras (mostly just called Rio Dulce). It was a refreshing ride along the river canyon full of jungle vegetation and birds. Karl kept his helmet on just in case we crashed into one of the yachts that moor in the safe harbour of the lake. Safety first!Meer informatie

  • Pedalling to Paraiso

    16 maart 2016, Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    The road out of Fronteras/Rio Dulce was rough for a few kilometres before it abruptly changed to perfect, smooth concrete as we rode through a massive palm oil and banana tree plantation. We managed to camp behind a small store for the night, which allowed us to arrive at Finca El Paraiso in the town of Agua Caliente early the next morning and be the first tourists of the day to explore this novel hotspring. Scalding hot water flows down a waterfall where it joins a cold creek - the resulting pool has a combination of temperatures depending on the location so you can choose the temperature you desire. We even found small cave saunas behind the waterfall. What a fun and relaxing start to our day!Meer informatie

  • The Highs and Lows of Guatemala

    16 maart 2016, Guatemala

    After our relaxing morning we pedalled to El Estor, where we ate an early lunch and learned a bit about the history of the nearby nickel mine that had recently changed from Canadian to Russian ownership. The wonderful concrete road ended in El Estor so the ride past the mine was rough, with a small break where only one side of the road had been paved and we got to pretend that we were riding in New Zealand again. We were surprised at how big and beautiful Rio Cahabon was when we crossed it so stopped for yet another break to swim and cool down. Looking at the map we realized we will ride along this river all the way to Cobán, unfortunately for us we will do many more metres of elevation gain than the river (double, triple or more?). We started up the road toward Santa Maria Cahabon at 4 pm after only having ridden ~60 km (where did the day go?!) and managed to sweat our way up to the hamlet of Bella Vista, alternating between cycling and pushing the bikes up 5 km of the steepest stretch of dirt road we have ridden on the trip so far, and arriving just before dark. We were let into the grounds of a Mormon church and were then joined by a bunch of friendly guys, who had been playing soccer in the adjacent school yard until dark, asking about our bikes and gear, and teaching us words in the local language of Q'echi.Meer informatie

  • Community Development in the Mountains

    17 maart 2016, Guatemala

    After climbing up to the 900 m pass, past many villages along a much gentler stretch of road, we started descending back to the river only to have one of the bolts attaching Karl's front rack snap. While he struggled to extract the broken piece, a pick-up stopped to ask if we needed help, and we met Donald, the director of Choice Humanitarian's SIKAAB'E Development Centre, and US volunteer Jolene. Since their centre was just 2 km down the hill, they offered to give Karl and his gear a ride to their shop where they had more tools we could use to extract the broken bolt. After trying a series of different sets of pliers, the solution came from drilling out of the centre of the bolt. With the repair complete, Donald gave us a tour of the centre, and we learned a lot about how much of Guatemala's agriculture has shifted from self sufficiency to growing cash crops like cardamom, cacao, coffee, and sugar; forcing families to survive on corn and beans bought in distant markets. The main goal of the centre is to revitalize self sufficiency in these communities and provide training in better agriculture practices, carpentry, cooking and hospitality so that people can take knowledge back to their communities and continue to spread positive change. It was inspiring to hear and see the positive impact Choice has had on the people living in the small mountain towns we rode through. The centre has also recently built two cute little cabins with an amazing view over the valley, so should be offering accomodation to two and four-wheeled travellers in the near future.Meer informatie

  • 'Following' the Cahabon River

    17 maart 2016, Guatemala

    Despite our early start we found ourselves riding in the heat of the day once again. The descent back to Rio Cahabon was dangerously steep and rough, and a real test for our brakes and narrow tires. The road didn't let up at all and shot straight back up once we crossed the river. We spent the rest of the day struggling with the heat, 20% grades and a dusty road past an active hydro construction project. We bought some much needed ice cream in Santa Maria Cahabon and made it to a lone farmhouse on a very rural stretch of road just as darkness fell. The next morning we had an opportunity to thank our hosts by working on Pablo's old Maya Tour bike, and replacing his chain with one of our "old" spares since his had certainly surpassed its expected lifespan.Meer informatie

  • Semuc Chapey

    18 maart 2016, Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    With an early start we made it to the town of Lanquin by 8:45 am, ate a watermelon and turned our bikes towards Semuc Champey. We knew we had another steep climb ahead of us, but once again were humbled by Guatemalan road grades and intense heat at 9:30 am. It took us nearly 2 hours to do the last 9 km of the day. With brakes in tatters we arrived back to the Rio Cahabon and had a celebratory swim before eating and setting up the tent. Refreshed and re-energized we headed into Semuc Chapey to see what all the hype was about. We hiked up to the mirador to see the pozos, or pools, of turquoise water that cascade down the valley, while the river actually descends into a cave under the pools and re-emerges on the other side. The colours and the setting really are stunning. Swimming in and exploring the pools and caves made for a relaxing afternoon - a world apart from the tough ride to reach the site.Meer informatie

  • Steep and Steeper

    19 maart 2016, Guatemala ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We opted for a ride in a camioneta back to Lanquin - no need to suffer through the same stretch of road twice! While only 30 minutes, the ride up and down the steep hills while holding our bikes up in the back of the truck blasting at full speed through the mountainous terrain was still a full body workout. After stocking up on fruit and lunch supplies we headed out of Lanquin to tackle the last 12 km of steep gravel climbing to the main highway to Cobán. Again, the road grade defied gravity, and the heat at 9:30 am was suffocating. We alternated between 1.5 km 'sprints' at snails pace and 15 minute breaks in the shade, getting passed by a steady trickle of buses and trucks. Three hours later we reached the asphalt, exhausted and in serious need of water and carbs. With a smoother road we quickly discovered that the bearings in Holly's back wheel were loose. We finger tightened the wheel, then made tracks to Cobán, hoping to find a bike shop before the end of the day. We had 50 km to go to reach Cobán, and enjoyed even the relaxed uphills along the pavement, but more so the flowy downhill stretches. Once in town we met back up with Francois and Helene at the bomberos, then Holly headed to the Cycling Bike Shop, where Axel repacked the hub and cleaned the entire drive train, on the house (after she insisted on paying something, owner Jose accepted 30 QZ, or ~$5 CAD, for the hour and a half of work!).Meer informatie

  • Palm Sunday in Cobán

    20 maart 2016, Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We had heard that Semana Santa (Holy Week, the week leading up to Easter) can be pretty full on in Latino countries. We weren't sure where we would end up during the week, but knew that in many places finding accomodation can be hard since it is the biggest holiday of the year. So we were relieved and excited to be in Cobán staying with the firefighters for Palm Sunday, which marks the beginning of Semana Santa. After filling up at a buffet for breakfast, we headed to the central square and waited as the preparations gave way to the procession. Many streets were covered in alfumbras, or carpets, made from dyed wood shavings that the procession would walk over. The work to produce these alfumbras is detailed and careful, and the resulting designs are beautiful and varied. Many people were dressed in a variety of costumes, including as Roman soldiers, in long cloaks or in suits. A giant float made of wood - requiring close to 100 people to carry it - with a statue of Christ carrying the cross was brought into the church, blessed, then carried around the streets for over 12 hours. At the fire station they were expecting the procession around 11 pm. We hung out with some of the firefighters while the alfumbras were getting finished on our street, then wandered around to see the different alfumbras along the road leading up to the fire station. Around 9 pm it began to rain, and the dye in the wood shavings started to run as rivulets of water flowed down the streets. Karl stayed up to see the procession go by in the pouring rain, on the home stretch back toward the church. It didn't look all that enjoyable to carry the giant float and others as well through the sopping streets, but if we can say anything it is that people's dedication to religious traditions here is unwavering.Meer informatie

  • To the Highlands

    21 maart 2016, Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We were sure glad to have a roof to sleep under because it rained all night in Cobán, and it was still raining in the morning as we packed up our stuff. We hit the bike shop again to get Karl's back wheel trued, then donned our jackets and shoe covers and headed out of town. Our route took us on the main highway toward Guatemala City for the first 15 km of the ride, and traffic was heavy with a narrow shoulder, which felt all the more dangerous with the wet road. We were glad to turn off toward Santa Cruz Verapaz onto a smaller road, and thought we may have ridden out of the rain cloud. However, after San Cristobal Verapaz we were back on a dirt road, and back in the rain. The mucky road was covered in potholes, and very soon we too were covered in mud and grime as we pedalled down and down to the Chixoy River. Having lost 800 m of elevation, we now had to climb back up 1200 m, but across the Chixoy we were now in the state of Quiche, and back on paved roads. The hills were steep as we climbed up past villages where we heard more Spanish than indigenous languages, and where people seemed to be less poor. We rolled into Chicaman around 5 pm and quickly found the Bomberos where we were able to put up our tent on their rooftop patio and chat with the friendly firefighters before heading to bed.Meer informatie

  • High in the Hills

    22 maart 2016, Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We started off in a thick fog the next morning, but it cleared soon after we left the market in Uspantan. We had a beautiful ride through Cunen and up over yet another steep road and down to Sacapulas for lunch at an ice cream shop. From there we had to climb another 1000 m to San Pedro Jocopilas, where we once again found a place to set up our tent with friendly firefighters and headed to bed early after a big day of climbing.Meer informatie

  • Hello Volcanoes!

    23 maart 2016, Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We weren't exactly excited to get back on our bikes the next morning, but we set off early and began the last big climb around 10 am. After 2 hours of steady climbing through ridge top villages we crested the summit at 2800 m and got a view of Volcan Santa Maria - a perfect conical volcano that stands out from the many volcanoes in the area around Totonicapan. From here we descended into Totonicapan (or Toto as it is often called), bought some fruit and chocolate dipped banans in the market and were very grateful that the last 10 km to San Cristobal Totonicapan were also gradually downhill. Our awesome Warmshowers host Carl fed us soup and salad loaded with fresh vegetables from his garden (a welcome change from our diet of beans and rice) before showing us to his dedicated guesthouse where we were reacquainted with Justin, a Canadian cyclist we had met in southern Mexico. The roundhouse is set amongst a forest of native and non-native trees that Carl has planted and is a wonderful place for worn out cyclists to recharge for another go at Guatemala's intense roads.Meer informatie

  • Kuxleqel and Good Friday

    25 maart 2016, Guatemala ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    After a good sleep in the roundhouse we met Carl for a hike up "his" volcano. He climbs Kuxleqel at least once a week, picks up garbage along the trail and plants trees with the local community. He lent Holly a mountain bike, which was better suited for the steep 10 km ride to a friend's house where we started the hike through a peaceful pine forest. We ambled up the trail along with Dan, another American living in Toto, and Margarita, one of the local indigenous women in Carl's education program, who is studying to be a teacher. The trail eventually steepened (as all roads and trails in Guatemala do!) to the discreet peak where we had beautiful views of the surrounding volcanos, including the perfectly conical Santa Maria. The return bike ride was pretty fun for Holly and less so for Karl, and resulted in the sad loss of his Sumo wrestler horn (given to him by our friend Vanessa, and one of the biggest hits with any kids we met along the road). We were invited to a Good Friday meal with Carl's wife's family, then wandered the streets to see the alfumbras prior to the Good Friday procession. As before, the alfumbras were elaborate and beautiful, and a real treat to see.Meer informatie

  • Getting High: Volcan Tajumulco

    26 maart 2016, Guatemala ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    We were lucky to get to climb Volcan Tajumulco, the highest mountain in Central America. Carl picked us up at 3:30 am and we drove through the night to the base of the volcano. The first rays of light broke over the horizon as we started hiking and the views just kept getting better as we got higher and higher. Since it was the Saturday of the Easter weekend, throngs of other people were also hiking the volcano - families with children and small babies, women in traditional dress, and even folks doing Mayan religious ceremonies. From the 4220 m summit we could see many of the surrounding volcanoes, including Acatenango and Fuego (which was erupting the entire time we were on the summit) near Antigua, Atitlan, near Lago Atitlan, Zunil, Santa Maria and Satiaguito (also erupting) near Xela, and Tacaná, the sister volcano to Tajumulco. By noon we were back down at the Jeep gorging on watermelon, and by 3 pm we were enjoying a delicious pizza dinner in Xela. It was a great day off the bikes, and a treat to get such a beautiful day to climb the volcano. Thanks to Warmshowers host Carl for taking us to hike Tajumulco!Meer informatie

  • The High Road

    28 maart 2016, Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    One more day of rest and we were ready to ride again. We said goodbye to the roundhouse at 9 am, and climbed surprisingly gentle grades up to our highest elevation on bikes at 3031 m. Joe, a British cyclist who stayed a night at the roundhouse as well, caught us near the summit and shared the awesome descent back to 2500 m with us. From there, the three of us rolled through small villages and passed numerous shafts in the hillside where people were mining sand and gravel. It took a surprisingly long time to find a good place to buy lunch, but we eventually had a good feed before descending through the clouds on grades over 20%. Our brakes were really put to the test as we descended 1000 m in 2 scary pitches to the shores of Lago Atitlan and the town of San Pedro La Laguna. We made it in one piece, but Karl's rear wheel developed a wobble from the intense heat of his rim brakes. We later met a couple on a tandem who's front tire burst from the heat of rim brakes - not a descent to be taken lightly...Meer informatie

  • Sunrise from Volcan San Pedro

    29 maart 2016, Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    We were told that the view from Volcan San Pedro was not to be missed, but the previous day's fog over the lake wasn't very inspiring. We figured our best chance for a view would be at day break so we set an alarm for 2:30 am and when we looked out of the tent and saw stars, we decided to go for it. We walked from our rooftop campsite up to the park entrance and were at the summit of Volcan San Pedro just as the horizon was turning red. We enjoyed a spectacular sunrise through the clouds, and especially enjoyed the warmth that the sun brought when it finally hit us. We sat and snacked for a while, but the clouds were already getting thicker and higher so we opted for a walk on small jungle trails to a slightly higher summit along the thickly forested crater rim and then started down. We were lucky to catch a glimpse of the rare Horned Guan flying through the trees on our way down the steep trail through the jungle, and lower down we passed through coffee and avocado farms that we had walked through in the dark on the way up. With a day's hiking done at 10 am we relaxed on the rooftop for the rest of the day. Later in the afternoon, we finally ventured down to the lake shore to check out the lively Spanish school/hostel strip that we hadn't explored yet, and then headed back home for an early bedtime.Meer informatie

  • Friends on Lake Atitlan

    30 maart 2016, Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    After a day of rest in San Pedro La Laguna, we packed up to head across Lago Atitlan to Panajachel, only to get a message from our friend Orion, who had hosted us back in November in Bodega Bay, California. He was in Panajachel, just a short ride across the lake, and could we meet up, he wondered? It couldn't have been better timing. We said good bye to our host Mikaela, who had let us camp on her roof for just a few quetzales a night with a great view of San Pedro, navigated the alleyways down to the lake, and hopped on a launcha for the quick ride across the lake. Unfortunately, the lake was still shrouded in haze, so we didn't get great views, but we did get a sense of just how big the lake was.

    It was lovely to see Orion again. He showed us the Spanish school he was attending, and brought us back to his homestay hosts' house where we met Angel and Luki and their children and another of the students, Bruce. We were thrilled to get to camp on their roof and spend the night chatting away and sharing food. We resumed conversations over an early breakfast the next morning, then sadly took our leave to attack the steep climb up away from the lake.
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  • The Road to Antigua

    31 maart 2016, Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    The climb out of Panajachel was not nearly as steep as the descent into San Pedro, so it was actually quite enjoyable. Sadly, after 4 days around Lake Atitlan the clouds/haze never fully cleared so we didn't get a good view of the lake as we rode past view points on the climb. The road was rough and steep in places, and we had to fjord a small creek, but we quite enjoyed the ride to Antigua with Joe. We attempted to stay with Bomberos in Antigua, but got sent back and forth across the cobblestone streets of the city a few times before we gave up and opted to camp on the roof of Captain Tom's Hostel. With the bustling market just around the corner, and an oven at our disposal, we teamed up with Joe to make a big dinner of pizza and salad the next night. We had also been in touch with Antoine who we first met on the Baja at New Years, and knew that he was staying at the same hostel, so got to swap stories with him from the last 3 months of our respective travels.Meer informatie

  • Exploring Antigua

    2 april 2016, Guatemala ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Riding our bikes around the cobblestone streets of Antigua after a full day of cycling made for a poor first impression of the city. Luckily, after a day off, mostly relaxing at the hostel, we awoke the following day to a view of the surrounding volcanos: Acatenango, Fuego and Agua. We also enjoyed walking around the city, admiring arts and crafts, visiting churches and markets, and people watching in the beautiful central park, before our afternoon departure out of the city.Meer informatie