• Holly and Karl
Aug 2015 – Apr 2016

Southward Bound

A 264-day adventure by Holly Read more
  • Balboa Island

    November 28, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We took the ferry to Balboa Island in Newport Beach and stumbled on as good a reason as any for a quick stop - frozen bananas dipped in chocolate with tasty toppings, yum! Thanks to Branden for suggesting that we take the Balboa Ferry to the island as a scenic route through the area :)Read more

  • San Clemente

    November 28, 2015 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    We are the masters of arriving at our destination just after sunset, and San Clemente was no exception. Kari, a friend of our friend Diana back in the Yukon, hosted us remotely as she was away for the weekend; we were thrilled to have a shower and a comfy bed after one of our bigger days of riding (~120 km). We went out for a sushi dinner and stumbled on a Christmas market on the way home as we walked the lively lit up streets of San Clemente. All in all it was a pretty great day riding on the coast!Read more

  • Elliptigo Touring

    November 29, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We saw a lot of cyclists on our ride from San Clemente to San Diego, but this guy really stood out. Craig was riding his elliptical "bike" from Santa Barbara back to San Diego where he lives and was excited to let us try his rig and talk about how he managed to tour with his tent strapped to the tall steer tube - once again proving that there are a million ways to go bike touring.Read more

  • Bike Maintenance Day

    November 30, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Our awesome hosts Mary Ann and Scott in San Diego not only recieved bike parts we shipped to their house, but also had the tools for us to change our worn out casettes and chains and breathe new life into our trusty steeds before we cross the border into Mexico. So our first order of business in San Diego was to clean, regrease and replace parts on our bikes. The result: shiny new drive trains, wahoo!Read more

  • Point Loma Loop

    November 30, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    After our morning of bike maintenance we decided to take the bikes for a spin out to Point Loma to check out the historic lighthouse and learn about San Diego's military history. The views of San Diego Bay underscored the significant military presence in the city, while the thousands of headstones along Cabrillo Memorial Drive were a powerful reminder of the true cost of war. The tide was too high to explore the tide pools so we rode back along Sunset Cliffs Blvd and took in the beautiful sunset.Read more

  • Prius Tour of San Diego

    December 1, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    To give us an understanding of the lay of the land in San Diego (and take us to a great viewpoint without all the pedalling!), our host Mary Ann took us on a tour of the city in their Pruis. We enjoyed the ride that took us along the harbour, out to Coronado Island, up to Balboa Park and atop Mount Soledad for great views.Read more

  • Harbour Tour

    December 1, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We got on our bikes to do some more exploring, cycling around San Diego Harbour where we found the Star of India, the oldest ship still sailing regularly, the HMS Surprise, as seen in the Pirates of the Caribbean, a US and a Russian submarine, and a giant military aircraft carrier, the Midway. The views were pretty sweet as well from the great bike paths along the harbour.Read more

  • Balboa Park & WH Cycling Connections

    December 1, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We headed up to Balboa Park for a quick tour to check out the Cactus Gardens and to take in the general ambiance around all the museums clustered in the park. There are some pretty funky and many nasty looking cacti out there, and surely we will see many of them as we continue riding in the desert down the Baja. From Balboa Park we headed to South Park to meet up with Nelly, Jerome, and their 6-year old daughter Josephine who are also cycling from Whitehorse to Central America. We compared notes on our favourite and less favourite parts of the trip and shared advice we had each gathered regarding the road ahead. After missing each other several times due to the zigging and zagging we each did down the coast, it was fun to finally connect. They are heading down the Baja soon as well, so we may meet up again down the road.Read more

  • Beach Time!

    December 3, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Despite the fact that we have been riding along the coast for many thousands of kilometers, we haven't spent much time lounging on the beach or swimming. We decided we needed to rectify that problem by spending some time at the beach on Coronado Island, and were excited to find out that our friends Vanessa and Toby were on a vacation in Palms Springs and wanted to meet up in San Diego to do the same. We took the ferry to the island with our bikes and met up with V & T, then hit the sand and the surf. The water was definitely warmer than when we tried to swim in Oregon and northern and central California, but still a bit chilly. After a few hours in the sun, we went to explore the Hotel del Coronado and then got treated to lunch by Vanessa and Toby at the Coronado Brewery. It was so fun catching up, and it felt too soon when we had to leave to catch our ferry back to the city to make our final preparations for heading to Tijuana the following day.Read more

  • Fun Times in OB

    December 4, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    We had such a great time hanging out with Mary Ann and Scott in Ocean Beach. We met them when we first reached the Oregon coast at Cape Meares - they were also biking the Oregon coast - and they kindly offered to host us when we passed through San Diego. It was super fun chatting with them about riding in Oregon, including favourite places, and more importantly, favourite food and ice cream stops. Their little house in Ocean Beach overlooks the Pacific, with great sunset viewing and a nice little basement room that we used to relax, repair gear and bikes and prepare for the journey ahead in Mexico. Mary Ann and Scott were busy working on a reno at their rental property during our stay, but kindly took the time to show us around town, take us to REI for some last gear purchases, and help us with our research trying to find a place to land on our first day in Mexico. One night they invited some of their friends over for dinner and we sat on the deck chatting about bike tours and adventures over delicious food. After 5 nights at their place it really felt like home, and we can't say enough about how fun and accomodating these guys were. We hope they will come visit us in the Yukon one day - although they might have to bring some warm clothes, because San Diego in 'winter' is basically as warm as the Yukon in summer!Read more

  • Welcome to Tijuana

    December 4, 2015 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We had a busy morning getting to the border as we had to mail our cherished "Google Phone" (a phone with 3G for all our direction queries, awesomely lent to us by Ellen and Taras) back to San Francisco, pick up a few last things, get some US cash and then change it into pesos so we could buy our tourist visas as we went through immigration into Mexico. The border crossing itself went smoothly, but stepping outside into Mexico was a bit of a shock despite our attempts at preparing ourselves. The walkways were full of people also crossing into Tijuana, or selling things to those passing by with pop-up food and drink stands lining the way. Every inch of road was full of cars and taxis heading through the border or picking up those who just had just entered the country. It was noisy, and grimy and full-on. Apparently the Tijuana border is one of the (the?) busiest border crossings in the world, and that was quite apparent. We felt our way along the walking path over the river to Avenida de la Revolucion and pedalled through downtown Tijuana until we found a free city map and directions to a cell phone shop where we could get a Mexican SIM card for our phone and get our bearings for the journey ahead.Read more

  • Tastes of Tijuana

    December 4, 2015 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Being a bordertown and the gateway to so much of Mexico, Tijuana has a sampling food and customs from many many different regions of Mexico. Ilan and Emma, our hosts in LA had given us some tips of places to check out to take some of that in, although it being our first time travelling in Mexico, we may not have appreciated all the subtleties that will surely become apparent after we pedal our way through the country. We started our tour by finding the Mariscos Reuben food truck that had been recommended to us and took the opportunity to change a slowly leaking tube while our delicious food was prepared. Almeja grantinadas (clam with melted cheese) and toasted fish tacos with fresh guava juice made for a great first meal in the county. We did a quick tour of Hidalgo Market, perusing a variety of spices, fruits, veggies, cheese and meat all new to us. Lastly we tried to find a bank to stock up on pesos for the road ahead. All of these stops, and the challenges of navigating the city and the traffic, added up and before we knew it it was 2:30pm - with only 2 hours until it would be dark at 4:30. We decided we didn't want to race out of Tijuana and try to find a place in Rosarito before dark, so headed to a hotel that had been recommended to us by a helpful Warmshowers host in Tijuana who was unable to host us, but happy to provide info to help us along. After pozoles for dinner (a traditional corn soup) we settled in at the hotel to catch up on the blog and get a good nights sleep.Read more

  • The Road Out of Tijuana

    December 5, 2015 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We woke up early to get a good start to our day. Our plan was to ride 100 kms to Ensenada where we had a host to stay with for the night. There are two highways out of Tijuana, the 1D, a toll highway forbidden to cyclists, but apparently with a good wide shoulder, and the 1, a free highway with lots of traffic and no shoulder. We had heard about cyclists riding the 1D but getting kicked off at each of the tolls or guard stations and then sneaking back on, but decided we didn't want to add that kind of headache to our day, so set off on the 1 up a big hill out of town. The traffic was crazy and we were definitely sucking in fumes wondering how long the hill could be, when a car pulled over and out jumped a guy and girl - Roberto and Annika. They told us they had been cycling around the world, but were taking some time off in Tijuana for the holidays since that is where Roberto's family is, and we were the first cycle tourists they had seen since arriving in Tijuana - did we need anything? Roberto told us about the 1D highway and how beautiful it was, and encouraged us to try to ride on it if we got the chance, and that was convincing enough for us to get on it later in the day (we had already missed the first part by taking the 1 out of town).Read more

  • Rosarito to Ensenada

    December 5, 2015 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    A fast descent took us into Rosarito where we detoured to the beach and watched surfers getting towed into some big waves. We then stopped for yummy liquados (milkshake like drinks). The polluted air and garbage on the busy streets took away from the ride out of Rosarito, but we did eventually find yaca (jack fruit, that we had been searching for at the market in Tijuana) at a road side stand and took some of the delicious fruit to go. As recommended by other cyclists we eventually deeked onto the 1D so that we could ride along the coast instead of following the 1 inland through the mountains. We enjoyed the wide shoulder and views of the Pacific with no hassle from the police or guards at the toll in Ensenada.Read more

  • Getting our Bearings in Ensenada

    December 6, 2015 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We were lucky to be hosted in Ensenada by Andrea through a friend-of-a-friend-of-a-friend connection - we love those! We had a great evening chatting with Andrea about our route south and her time working in Canada doing art therapy with First Nations groups. Andrea's daughter Natalia had brought home a crippled Western Grebe from her evening walk on the beach so she and Karl had a "google race" to identify it and then continued to try and diagnose its illness over a pizza dinner. The next morning Andrea's son Damian stopped by with more tips on things to see and places to avoid as we tour through Mexico, and helpfully gave us a map of the Baja that we had been unsuccessfully searching for at gas stations. Much thanks to the whole family for taking us in and helping us plan our route south. We ate at 2 different delicous taco/tostada stands on our way out of town, snapped a picture as we rode along the beach and headed south into the hills through Santo Thomas towards San Vicente.Read more

  • Busy Roads to San Quintin

    December 7, 2015 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We had a hilly, but enjoyable ride from San Vicente to Punta Colonet. The last 50 kms through Camalu and Vincente Guerrero were hard though as the traffic increased and the road narrowed. We started to think that we should have taken Highway 3 across from Ensenada toward San Felipe and ridden down the Cortez Coast, so spent some time looking at maps and wondering if we could cut across backroads to the other coast. In the end we decided continue forward and to go to San Quintin where our awesome Warmshowers hosts Gabino and Lupita welcomed us into their home for an evening of chatting (en espanol!) with them and fellow cyclist Safia from Algeria before we retired to their dedicated guest house "Tu Casa" for a good nights rest.Read more

  • Into the Desert

    December 8, 2015 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We finally decided it wasn't worth detouring back north to get over to the Sea of Cortez, so we just loaded up with food and water and headed south on Highway 1. As Gabino and other cyclists had said, the traffic dropped off 10 kms out of San Quintin and we had the road to ourselves once again. We rode by cactus farms, and vast dry plains with views of the distant surf before the big climb to a military checkpoint above El Rosario.Read more

  • High and Dry

    December 9, 2015 in Mexico

    A fun descent took us to El Rosario where we filled up with water at a library before heading off into the hills. We were carrying ~12 L of water, and knew that there were some ranchos along the way where we could buy food along with more filtered water, but it was still daunting to be heading into such a dry place with so little for services. We climbed up and up, finally deciding to stop and camp on a hilltop near what we hoped was the top of our climb. From our perch the sunset was beautiful with the hills in the distance and such a variety of cactii in the foreground. While we were a bit off the road, we could see the lights of trucks and cars off in the distance winding their way up into the hills, and sadly we could still hear the trucks chugging up and engine breaking down the closest hill late into the night and early in the morning. The stars were also quite bright and beautiful, as Holly unfortunately found out since she was up and sick much of the night - perhaps something she ate, dehydration or just the exertion in the heat. We didn't really have much choice but to keep going though, so after a little breakfast and lots of electrolytes we set off again the next morning. We passed open and closed ranchos throughout the day, the difference between the two not readily visible at first to our untrained eyes (if there is a sign, regardless of whether the place looks abandoned, there will be some kind of minimal services). As we were starting to feel a bit stressed about how little water we had left early in the afternoon, we finally found an open rancho and filled up our bottles for the last 40 km to Cataviña.Read more

  • Deja Vu

    December 9, 2015 in Mexico

    The long descent into Cataviña was lined with Joshua Tree-esque boulders so that we felt as though we had been here before, only the Joshua trees were replaced with cactii, among them the protected Cirios, which is actually a tree and is only found in this area in the Baja. Despite the signage discouraging vandalism, many of the boulders were covered in graffiti, but the area still felt quite special. That said, it made us glad we hadn't gone out of our way to cycle to Joshua Tree and further in the desert in the southern US since we have realized we still have many desert days ahead of us.Read more

  • Cataviña

    December 9, 2015 in Mexico

    For a tiny desert town Cataviña had a lot of services (or maybe we are just getting used to life on the Baja?). We were first drawn to the mini hotel by a sign saying they had ice cream, but were sad to find no one around. Luckily there was a small store and even a "gas station" further down the road so we bought a few extra groceries and fuel for our stove. Next we stopped at a cafe where we got more filtered water and an early dinner so we could save our water for the next day's ride. We rode ~2 km south of town and followed a small road off to the right, and for the second time we followed bicycle tracks to our free campsite among the cactii and enjoyed another beautiful sunset while eating canned peaches for dessert. We even camped without the fly on our tent so we could look out at the stars. No fear of rain here!Read more

  • Another Day in the Desert (with Dessert)

    December 10, 2015 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    From Cataviña we quickly climbed all the way up to a 900 m pass and then rolled through vast high desert where we saw a few cows and horses surviving on meager rations. The loncheria at the Chapala junction didn't offer anything cold so we just ate lunch in the scant shade of a scrubby tree and enjoyed the cool wind even though it was slowing our progress. Karl broke the first spoke of the trip on a climb after lunch, but luckily it was easy to change and gave us another reason for a break in the shade. From then on we cruised on a long gradual descent to Punta Prieta where we ran into Vancouver cyclist Phil, who we had met in a campground north of Malibu. He had ridden down the Sea of Cortez route, and it sounded just as remote, but with beaches alongside the desert - ho hum didn't a swim sound nice after 3 days in the desert! We once again had an early dinner at a cafe and even got WiFi so Holly could wish her niece a happy 2nd birthday before pedalling out of town to find a place to camp among the cactii for the night - with an even bigger can of peaches for dessert :)Read more

  • Into Baja California Sur

    December 11, 2015 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Our last day in Baja California took us through a series of small towns along highway 1, where we were excited to be able to finally buy popsicles and then delicous fish tacos. We had an incredible tailwind helping us along, and reached the border into Baja California Sur, and the 28th parallel, mid-afternoon with only a few more kms to reach Guerrero Negro after pedalling just over 115 km. We passed some hotels and very colourful suburbs (?!) before cruising along the main avenida of the town, lined with hotels, restaurants, tacos stands and stores all geared toward tourists who come in January and February to see grey whales that migrate to the adjacent lagunas and give birth before heading north again each year. Sadly we were too early for the whales, but did appreciate the off-season hotel prices, and instead got to take in celebrations for the Virgin of Guadeloupe manifesting as many flash-mob style dances, parades and shows that spontaneously appeared and as quickly disappeared during our day wandering around the town. We walked the streets sampling food and ice cream and enjoyed getting cleaned up after our dry days in the desert.Read more

  • Salt and Lagunas

    December 12, 2015 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Guerrero Negro apparently boasts one of the largest salt mines in the world. We weren't organized enough to book a tour while we were in town, but did bike out towards the mine and saw the salt crystalizing in giant evaporation ponds along the road. We also cycled along the laguna and saw an abundance of birds and other critters.Read more

  • Guerrero Negro Cycle Touring Convention

    December 12, 2015 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    We stumbled upon many other cyclists while in Guerrero Negro. Phil rode into town a few hours after us and also decided to take a day off to use the facilities offered by a bigger city. We also finally met up with Tyndall and Liz who Karl first met when they stayed with friends of ours in Whitehorse in the early days of their tour from Anchorage to Ushuaia. They followed the Continental Divide trail through the States so the Baja finally brought us together for a night on the town in GN sharing stories, tacos and ice cream. We also learned more about their light-weight bike packing set-up. Shanna was our newest cycling friend, but had already met Tyndall and Liz as they rode along the Sea of Cortez at the same time, and happened to be staying at the same hotel as Phil. It sure feels like a small world of cycle tourists on days like these!Read more

  • Cactus Campfire

    December 13, 2015 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    The next morning we left town early and rode a flat and boring 75 km to Viscaino, though we had to admit all other conditions were in our favour with a light tailwind, cool weather, and limited traffic. We met up with Shanna and her cycling partner Fraser in Viscaino, so we sat down for some tacos with them, and just as we finished Liz and Tyndall arrived, so we all loaded up on water and rode out of town to go camp in the desert together. The tailwind was so good we put in another 25 km before deciding to pull off the road and find a place to camp. Fraser is a veteran cycle tourist, who cycled from his home in Bella Coola to Ushuaia over 20 years ago, and walked through the muck to cross the Darian Gap, among other crazy things, and both him and Shianna were quite accomplished ultra-marathoners, so we had a great time sharing stories of past tours and ultra running around a cactus campfire (built by Fraser with his machete - never leave home without it!).Read more