Gokoro & Twin Lakes

Today, we went for a guided hike on one of Rwanda's "hills," colline Gakoro, to be precise. The description "hill" is a little misleading as it is 2400m high, as are many of the others. ( The land of the 1000 hills has approximately 8,500 hills). Gakoro has good views of the 3 volcanoes that are the border region of Rwanda, Uganda, and Congo. Unlike elsewhere in Africa, everywhere is green and lutious, no sign of drought. That is the case, right the way to the top, and the volcanoes look the same, and they reach 4100m. I asked our guide, Peterson, if it ever snowed. "No, never" was his reply.

On the way to the start of our walk, we pass through several villages. The construction looks good, but the people lack running water, and the farmers here also transport potatoes by bicycle. Plots of land are small, and there are a lot of people. The average age in Rwanda is only 19!, and due to the genocide there are very few people over 50. These sights re-emphasise that lifting the countryside out if poverty won't be easy, and that is 60% of the population. ( In Switzerland, 2% are farmers).

There is one tradition here that serves the people well, before you get married, you have to build your own home and plant an allotment with banana and avocados. Well, in theory, it's good, but I suspect that with a strong increase in population, it's unsustainable.

Peterson had said the walk was easy, and technically, it was, even if it went up and up for two hours. He missed that for northern Europeans walking uphill in full sun at 28C, is a little strenuous. I am glad to say, however, that with a few short breaks, we made it with reserves to spare.

Of course, just as we were reaching the top, we were overtaken by 3 ,15 year old girls, each of whom was carrying 20 kg on their heads in yellow plastic containers. The kids and Flo tried to lift one of them, and they just about managed to lift one off the ground. The girls, and especially their necks, must be really strong, incredible really from a European perspective.

Also near the top is a nice new health centre, funded as the plaque says by the Chinese, via a company that they presumably own that provides television. Where the West fails to act or, in the case of the UK, drops out, China is ready to step in, which will have consequences.

Throughout our walk, we are accompanied by between 3 and 15 local kids. It's school holidays and so there are plenty around. Nora made friends with one holding her hand and walking together for almost an hour. You can see in my photos a short video of her singing. Most of the kids speak a small amount of English. They ask our names and where we come from. Others we pass by simply shout "hallo." The children are warm and friendly to us , and don't hassle, as happens elsewhere.

We picnic on the top, and half of our food that we don't eat is eagerly taken by our new friends. Their poverty is visible in torn clothes that often have holes, too, but they are nice, cheerful kids, with ambitions, and hopes for some at least of a better life.

We decend to lake Burera, and then go down to Lake Ruhondo. We cross the lake in a small boat, and then go to a restaurant for a drink. I have a beer for $1. We joke about ordering some of the items on the menu, for example, a whole goat for $80.

We head back to the hotel around 6 and order food by phone in the hope the kids will be in bed by 8 pm. We'll no fast food here. The beef stew is delicious even if it's just reaching the table at 8pm. Kids do go to bed relatively easily as at 9 pm they are more than exhausted.Läs mer