Swapokmund to Twyfelfontein

Today, we have another journey that google tells us to take 4 hours. We have learned from previous mistakes, and we set out early around 8 am just in case.

We have two stops on the road both along the 1st 100km, which is called the skeleton coast. It gets that name from producing lots of human skeletons. The people's fate generally started with one of the many shipwrecks, and of course, many simply drowned. If they survived the initial wreck then they had a high chance if dying of hypothermia, abd the lucky ones that didn't mostly died of thirst and hunger, because the coast is an endless stretch of sand and salt flats.

Stop 1 is a recent wreck of what looks like a very large fishing boat. Now it's a bird colony. It looks like a Gannett colony, except the birds are black. Too large to be cormorants.

Stop 2 is where you might feel like dying because it stinks, and the stonk stays on the van on our clothes and on our shoes for hours to follow. Cape Cross breaks up the sandy desert with a rocky headland drenched in massive waves that are home to tens of thousands of fur seals.

We got out to see them, walking in their midst on a raised walkway. They showed no interest whatsoever in us being there. Why? 1/3 slept 1/3 was headed to or from the water, and the remainder was fighting or arguing. Some of the fighting is violent, and many seals have bite marks and scars. Why they fight is unclear since the entire colony is females and newborns, mo males.

At around 1030, we set off for the remaining miles. Again, this was a hellish journey. It took us till 1630 to cover just 250km. No traffic jam, just crap roads. Future travellers will be spared at least part of this hell, as a new road is being built. We unluckily had to drive alongside the construction.

At our camp, a couple of dampers. No power. Showers don't work. Oh, well 😞. We are so tired from hours of being shaken that we opt to eat at the camp restaurant. Od dear, they stretch some chicken and sweet potatoes that would be good for 5 to serve 8 of us.

Small compensation, or actually quite large compensation, we have a truly wonderful desert sunset.

Photos credit Flo ( I was driving)Meer informatie