Reflections on Africa

We have just spent nearly 6 weeks in Africa, and visited 5 countries, each of them so different and special in different ways.

We would have loved to visit more of Africa, but because we travel with the children, our friends with local knowlwdge advised against many countries for security reasons, and simply thought some others had nothing to offer in addition to those that we had planned. Maybe some day, we can take the children to Mali, or more likely we will have to wait for them to take us. So alongside my mostly positive impressions this time, I should emphasize that we cherry picked safe countries, and in our beloved Mali there is not even the faintest light at the end of the tunnel.

What are the big positives?

1 .Life is improving for many

Basic hygiene and clean water are now much more widespread than when we visited 15 years ago.

Infrastructure, such as roads has in some cases improved beyond what we dreamed of (e.g. Kenya), and we see work in progress elsewhere (e.g. Namibia)

Corruption still hides behind every corner, but in some countries there is effective oversight ( e.g. Rwanda).

Political violence is sharply down. In Kenya last month, elections were again disputed, but without the violence of the past. In Egypt daily life is much more peaceful than under the end of the Mubarak regime or the Muslim brotherhood.

2. Africans are overwhelmingly young, hopeful and increasingly bettrr educated.

The average age in Rwanda is 19! In other countries I haven't seen figures but I think it must be below 30, and that despite sharp increases in life expectancy.

As far as we could tell, all the countries we visited had a full education system for 5 to 16 year olds, and the understanding that to get on in life you need an education was widespread. I was super impressed by a very poor young boy in Rwanda's determination to move up. His command of English was as large as the holes in his only t-shirt. I was also touched in Kenya by Jeff a driver, and how he had pulled himself up, and how he was determined to do all he could, so that his children would climb more.

3. Africa does have models that work in the African context

Rwanda is frankly an outstanding example of how to make things work in Africa. It's community service (umaganda) means it is clean and beautiful. It's moved from a horrible tribal past , to a non tribal future. In small steps its economy develops by adding jobs that are one up from agriculture, even if it's only making potato chips, or pineapple juice.

All African leaders need to do a sabbatical in Rwanda.

Rwanda is for sure far from perfect: it's not a real democracy; it does have human rights issues; BUT it's absolutely a stand out example for Africa.

4. Anyone can visit where we visited and you will be given a heartfelt warm welcome.

Before we left a friend working in an African NGO advised against visiting Kenya. Their concerns were, I say with hindsight, clichéd and very western, and not at all fact based. At least diplomatic guidance was clear that it was unlikely there would be any trouble due to the elections. So we went, and we were rewarded with a wonderful time.

15 years ago our experience of Kenya was that you would for dure have some bad experiences. You'd be overcharged for a trip with poor transport, and poor accommodation. You would often not feel safe . Well a combination of attitude changes and the internet bringing transparency on quality, traveller's experieces, and pricing the fast buck and the rip-off have (largely) been replaced by the desire to get good reviews. Booking.com is a force for good 👍 😉.

We saw improvements, everywhere in this regard except for some steps backward in Tanzania . It seems they still haven't in many cases understood how to charm rather than repell visitors.

5. The wonderful wildlife and natural beauty spots are mostly well manged ( but they are often under threat)

But for drought, most nature resources seem better managed than in the past with the clear exception being Tanzania.

6. Development projects are delivering in a way they did not in the past.

It's not clear what made the difference, but now roads, hospitals and schools are being built to good standards. Water is cleaner and subsidies are helping communities to buy photovoltaics and utilize solar power.

What are the big negatives?

1. The countries we visited are safe, but that is often not the case in Africa

2 Wealth is not trickling down. It's in the hands if very few.

It's a misconception that the US is capitalism pure. It has basic safety nets. In Africa there is no safety net, there are only weak mechanisms to foster equality.

Take Namibia it has a GDP of $5000 per head, but over half the population have less than $2 per day.

3. Drought, doughty, drought

Humans and wildlife, and plants are all suffering in East Africa from droughts. Is it climate change? I don't know for one simple reason. Our press in the West has almost zero coverage of Africa so I lack information. What is certain is that expert help is needed to deal with droughts.

4. Population growth may limit or eliminate the gains of economic growth.

Rwanda is growing at am impressive 8% per year, but unless it does more to dampen population growth, they will struggle to reduce the numbers in poverty. Anecdotally we saw the same issue in Namibia.

Hallo family planning!

What to do, from outside?

Aid spent on infrastructure looks like a good I investment, as do efforts to improve schools and reduce corruption.

I am totally unconvinced that micro finance for local arts; crafts bring much, since the Chinese can "sculpt" a wooden giraffe more cheaply, and they do ethic necklaces as well.

Far better to support investment in manufacturing that adds value, or services that meet local needs. There are good examples if Afican apps.

Communicate and spread best practices need to be fostered, as they have huge potential, but are asvifvtoday little used.Читать далее